• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Sidearms & Scatterguns Springfield Hi-Power clone?

Some furniture projects I've used polyurethane on have gotten a yellow haze in the finish (after a number of years). Is there a way to prevent this? Too thick an application, maybe?
Use water based poly. Oil based polyurethane will add a warm tone to woods, and it does yellow over time.

Water based poly won’t. Ensure it is compatible with the stain in the furniture if has been stained.
 
  • Like
Reactions: E. Bryant and skl1
Use water based poly.
Same here.

Thinned polyurethane penetrates and preserves like few others do. And there's ways to cut the shine down too, which I like.
You can cut the shine, but if that’s the look I was going for, I’d just use semi-gloss or satin polyurethane. Tru-oil and other varnish finishes will build to a high gloss and need to be hit with a 3M brand finishing pad to tone down the sheen.

I’ve never toned down the sheen unless a customer requests it. To me, a glass smooth high gloss finish=a high craftsmanship item. Takes a lot of effort to get that type of finish. High gloss clear finish really helps the chatoyance as well. Makes the wood miles deep, especially when you start with thinned coats to actually penetrate the wood and build the finish. I’ll usually do 6 coats. 3 thinned 50/50 MS/Varnish coats. 2 coats 33/66 MS/Varnish, followed by one uncut coat if necessary.
 
Was the finish on or in the wood?
I'm not smart enough to answer. I didn't have any sealer before applying, so I assume the first coat acted as a sealer and was in the wood and following coats did build up a little on surface. I steel-wooled the surface between coats.
 
I'm not smart enough to answer. I didn't have any sealer before applying, so I assume the first coat acted as a sealer and was in the wood and following coats did build up a little on surface. I steel-wooled the surface between coats.

I always try to build up a finish in the wood by thinning the poly and rubbing it in to soak.
 
  • Like
Reactions: skl1
I'm not smart enough to answer. I didn't have any sealer before applying, so I assume the first coat acted as a sealer and was in the wood and following coats did build up a little on surface. I steel-wooled the surface between coats.
If it’s oil based poly, then there is no stopping the yellowing.

You can make your own sealer by thinning the oil based varnish 50/50 with mineral spirits. It’s like water, lol. Will take 3-5 coats to begin to see a build of the finish. Apply, let sit for about 3 minutes, wipe off excess. I normally apply with a brush for large furniture. You can speed up the build by using a 66/33 Poly/MS for the sealer, or use DEWAXED shellac as a sealer for an oil based varnish.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 308pirate and skl1
Another 150 rounds fired today, and I can say without a doubt that these tactical fagtical "Self defense range is 7 yds (drool)" sights need to go.

Ammo fired was Winchester NATO 124 gr ball.

I fired at 25 yards standing, one handed (like a man) and 2 handed (like a man with a bun) and due to the sights could really only keep in the 7-10 rings on a B-16 target. Groups inconsistent due to trying to center a square into giant U notch.

Did not rest the pistol today.

Largest 10 shot group at 25 yards was 6 inches. Smallest was 3, and it was only one. Average was 4 3/4 inch for 5 10 shot groups.

So I thought maybe it's me. Could be, never know.

So I brought my Sam's Beretta 92 Match gun for just this purpose. After firing several groups at 25, I deduced it wasn't me.

I am 80% confident it is the rear sight and not the mechanical accuracy of the gun that is the culprit. Could be a little ammo related, but I believe the ammo used is good enough for what I'm doing. Will send an email off to Springfield and see what the rear sight cut is so I can replace it.

Other than that, still very happy with it. Hopefully can get to my home range in December and Ransom rest it out to 25 and 50 yards.

Still zero malfunctions of any type.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: RayDBonz
Something seems a little off here…oh, and the screw came buggered from Springfield. Figured they hired the old lady from Colt that was over tightening grip screws from 2011-2015.
A4470268-0CC7-4365-A54C-9ED376B8DB84.jpeg
 
  • Sad
Reactions: pmclaine
That whole grip appears to be suffering "crackage".

Do you know anyone that can make grips?
Yeah, Hogue, lol. Have a set of checkered Cocobolo grips on the way. The $75 spent on Hogue is about $300 cheaper than it would cost me to make a set due to wasting my time, lol.

I’ll also be emailing Springfield to get a new set of Walnuts. When I put the grips on, it was a slight interference fit right there so not surprised.

This is my punishment for not using BLO.
 
Doesn’t have full barrel lug engagement. Favors the right side.

I’m nit picking here as I had the same thing on several Browning Hi-Powers. So pretty much built just like a real Hi-Power, lol. I still have a couple of hard fit KKM barrels leftover from a prior calling in life, and in about 30,000 rds I’ll fit one up.

So, all in all I still rate it a solid buy at the amount I paid, and have an order in for 3 more that I’ll wait to get at MSRP.
 
Got the new grips in. Nice cocobolo, and dirt cheap at $75. They don’t fit as perfectly as the factory walnuts, but good enough for me. Beats the shit out of having to make a set, lol.

B28A1BF3-234F-434E-B684-0A41F53B7648.jpeg
C3EB21DD-B7E8-4889-817C-4EAA56B3BE9D.jpeg
 
Cocobolo grips look great. Let us know what the sight dovetail is and what new sight you go with.
 
Heard back from Springfield. It’s 60 degrees for the dovetails.
 
  • Like
Reactions: skl1
.375 wide x .140 deep? With 60 deg angle?