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SR25 muzzle break removal

The disclaimer in the Knightstick copy about square lugs is for the SR/AR-15, not the SR-25. Lots of misinformation here.
Can you tell us if the mi urr is good to go? Just want to make sure it’ll do the job.
 
Anyway I will be very relieved to know I wasn’t spouting bad info that messed anyone up. Mi urr 308 + breakerbar/crow foot + torque worked for me. But I am just a random non-gunsmith knucklehead. I thought the mi urr 308 and Geissele ar10 were basically substitutes for one another.
 
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I use the microwave to heat the water, cork the barrel if worried about submerging the lining in water.
After the device is removed, same treatment to easily remove the residual adhesive from the threads.
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I could never find a KAC action rod up in Canada for a SR25. So you guys are saying that a Geissele or other would work ?
 
We haven't gotten a straight answer in the thread, yet. TheOE800 has told us that the thread has misinformation. These guys are all over the place. strikeeagle1 tells us we need a special rod with radiused lugs, even while he shows us a picture of the Geissele rod with the square lugs.

I think that the sr-25 is good to go with a standard AR-10 style Rod. As you can see from my pictures, the Geissele Rod specifically states sr25 on the stamp next to ar10.. I purchased mine after reading a different thread at some point that led me to believe it would work, because I could never find the Knight stick.

I think the sr15 is the one with the special bolt lugs that requires the proprietary KAC action wrench/Knight stick, as TheOE800 stated.
 
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We haven't gotten a straight answer in the thread, yet. TheOE800 has told us that the thread has misinformation. These guys are all over the place. strikeeagle1 tells us we need a special rod with radiused lugs, even while he shows us a picture of the Geissele rod with the square lugs.

I think that the sr-25 is good to go with a standard AR-10 style Rod. As you can see from my pictures, the Geissele Rod specifically states sr25 on the stamp next to ar10.. I purchased mine after reading a different thread at some point that led me to believe it would work, because I could never find the Knight stick.

I think the sr15 is the one with the special bolt lugs that requires the proprietary KAC action wrench/Knight stick, as TheOE800 stated.
Have you or anyone reached out to KAC tech support/service for an answer to this question? Or perhaps engage J Lueba on FB or other social media platforms? Or even KAC licensed armorers such a Operation Parts, Presample Depo or NS Defense?
 
Seeing as how I don't have my Sr 25 yet, and I already own the reaction rod, I'll hang out and wait to see if anybody addresses it before I bother Jack or anybody at Knights. Perhaps someone else can chime in.
 
Seeing as how I don't have my Sr 25 yet, and I already own the reaction rod, I'll hang out and wait to see if anybody addresses it before I bother Jack or anybody at Knights. Perhaps someone else can chime in.
So you’d prefer to see more speculation from randoms on the internet instead of going to a trusted source?

And KAC staffs people specifically to answer customer questions so it’s not a “bother” for them to answer yours. Their licensed armorers also answer questions which, something like this would be answered in like 5 minutes vs starting a friggin thread about it.

Makes no sense.

To anyone else that wants a straight answer, simply contact Op Parts, KAC or Presample Depot on Monday.

Simple.
 
strikeeagle1 tells us we need a special rod with radiused lugs, even while he shows us a picture of the Geissele rod with the square lugs.
I am not telling anyone they need a special rod ......the manufactures of the tools (Geissele and KAC) recommend using the proper tool to avoid damage to the tool or the barrel extension in specific bolts!

It's not my picture.......it's Giessele's ad!! in which you cannot see the detail in question.

The leading edge of the recommended barrel extension tool has the same profile as the leading edge of the bolt, it's subtle but real. Kind of like the real difference between a Torx bit and a Torx-Plus bit, it's in the fine details. The improved design with radiused lobes extends the Torx tool life and provides a better engagement with the fastener, just as advertised with most recent KAC bolt edge designs.

Some decide to use Channel Locks when the proper size wrench is appropriate.

Signing out of this thread.

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Excuse my ignorance but why do you have to buy a special 1 use tool when a barrel vise would do the same thing? Is their some odd gas block/tube setup that can't easily be removed?
 
So you’d prefer to see more speculation from randoms on the internet instead of going to a trusted source?

And KAC staffs people specifically to answer customer questions so it’s not a “bother” for them to answer yours. Their licensed armorers also answer questions which, something like this would be answered in like 5 minutes vs starting a friggin thread about it.

Makes no sense.

To anyone else that wants a straight answer, simply contact Op Parts, KAC or Presample Depot on Monday.

Simple.
Oh, I see. You had a point to make. Well, yes. In fact, I'vefound "randoms on the internet" incredibly helpful over the years. If I had contacted Jack L, don't you think I'd've led off with that fact, much like you could've led off with the fact that you have nothing valuable to add? Well, Fuck off. I've already answered it to my satisfaction, and bought the Geissele rod, yet here's a thread confusing folks. BTW, I didn't start the thread, dipshit! Now, let me ask you your own question, did you contact them? If not, aren't you a hypocrite? Why don't you so that you have a valid point to make?
 
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I am not telling anyone they need a special rod ......the manufactures of the tools (Geissele and KAC) recommend using the proper tool to avoid damage to the tool or the barrel extension in specific bolts!

It's not my picture.......it's Giessele's ad!! in which you cannot see the detail in question.

The leading edge of the recommended barrel extension tool has the same profile as the leading edge of the bolt, it's subtle but real. Kind of like the real difference between a Torx bit and a Torx-Plus bit, it's in the fine details. The improved design with radiused lobes extends the Torx tool life and provides a better engagement with the fastener, just as advertised with most recent KAC bolt edge designs.

Some decide to use Channel Locks when the proper size wrench is appropriate.

Signing out of this thread.

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Thanks, I'll continue to seek the truth. So, in your previous post where you showed pics of the change of muzzle device, was that your Geissele rod or someone else's?
 
Oh, I see. You had a point to make. Well, yes. In fact, I'vefound "randoms on the internet" incredibly helpful over the years. If I had contacted Jack L, don't you think I'd've led off with that fact, much like you could've led off with the fact that you have nothing valuable to add? Well, Fuck off. I've already answered it to my satisfaction, and bought the Geissele rod, yet here's a thread confusing folks. BTW, I didn't start the thread, dipshit!
You’re hilarious. You should have started with contacting KAC but nah - that would have made too much sense.

Fucking Dumbass.
 
Troll. If you're just here without a point and the desire to criticize, you must live under a bridge.
 
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“You must live under a bridge”…hysterically good shit, keep it coming. I’m bored so depending on you to repeatedly deliver these gems.

How about doing it in one take this time, no edits.
 
I rest my case.

Edit: Troll

ps. bridge dweller ;-)
I’m moving out from under the bridge and into your head. Best part is I ain’t going to be paying a cent of rent.

And you really need to work on your material. As of now, it sucks.

Call KAC on Monday. They will tell you what you need to know.

Once they give you the information that you can’t seem to get in this thread, you can rest your case.
 
You think way too highly of yourself. I fell asleep reading your post. Certainly won't lose sleep tonight. And my material is irrelevant. If it doesn't entertain you, that's a win.
 
Rocksett’s official documentation says to pee on it and it comes right off. Their compound reacts with the nitrogen in the urea and will immediately unset and come right off with minimal force.
 
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You think way too highly of yourself. I fell asleep reading your post. Certainly won't lose sleep tonight. And my material is irrelevant. If it doesn't entertain you, that's a win.
Let us all know what KAC tells you after you speak when them on Monday. And try not to fall asleep while on the phone with them, you might miss some important details.
 
I have felt such anxiety about having handed out bad information that I emailed KAC this afternoon and they emailed me back right away. I have excerpted the exchange below. Suffice it to say that they do not recommend the use of other barrel extension wrenches. Knight stick or barrel vise for me from now on and grateful I was lucky before!

My question:

“In the absence of being able to find an armament barrel extension wrench (Knight stick) in stock would use of a Geissele .308/7.62 reaction rod and/or a Midwest Industries .308 upper receiver rod damage the barrel extension on an SR25?”

The prompt and clear response from their

“As our barrel extension is proprietary other barrel extension wrenches are not recommended as they may damage your rifle.”
 
Wonder if they're just required to answer with that party line since they won't accept liability for others' products.
 
You need genuine motor craft parts or your windshield may not have optimum clarity resulting in a wreck.

Don't use unapproved wipers on that ford boy.

Ar 15's much more standardized.
I don't buy much non standard for them.

Screw the non standard proprietary rabbit hole.
 
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You need genuine motor craft parts or your windshield may not have optimum clarity resulting in a wreck.

Don't use unapproved wipers on that ford boy.

Ar 15's much more standardized.
I don't buy much non standard for them.

Screw the non standard proprietary rabbit hole.

This is KAC, boy! You WILL get on your knees and worship!
 
Ah, no and none of the other boutique stuff iether.

Not saying it's not good but I don't do boutique guns or order drinks with little umbrellas.

Not a fanboy to any of it especially if you shell out extra to get something non compatible to other parts you now need to replace.

I'll have to just for fun see what that one sbr upper in 223 is.
I may own a kac, not that I give a shit it's behind a bunch of stuff in the locker.

My son bought a bunch of shit at a cop shop with his discount. It may be one of those?

Bourbon, is about the same as long as it's cask strength and made with mash bill #1 from the same parent distillery I GAF.
 
Used a Geissele. Fits fine, took very little effort to get the flash hider off with an AAC removal tool. Midwest would work fine as well. While I understand their stuff is proprietary, there was absolutely no sign of marring or damage in the chamber. Obviously do this at your own risk, if the torque required to get it off was too much, i would have backed off and went to someone with the proprietary stuff. I got the mams to 10:30 by hand with shims and used a 7/8” crowfoot to time to 12 o’clock. All is well and I’m still stacking holes when benched.
 
^^^that one works for both SR15 and SR25, it has two different of lug diameters.