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Stock Texturing

jhart2424

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 7, 2011
165
1
Brea, California
I know this is a pretty easy task to accomplish but I have had a few people from another site ask me how I did it. I also installed a few flush cups and will be installing a LOP spacer kit soon.

I purchased a Manners T4 with mini chassis for my new build from StockyStocks. They only had OD at the time, so I already planned on painting it. When it arrived I noticed that the texture was very weak and barely visible through the paint.



I first stripped down the stock and prepped it for paint.



I then tapped the areas where the new texture would be applied with blue painters tape.



I used to straight edge to mark the areas to be textured. Then using a socket, I marked the corners to round everything for a clean look.



I use Marine Tex for all my texturing and bedding. Follow directions in the box for mixing.



Using a tongue depressor or something similar, I take the Marine Tex and apply a light smooth coat over the area. I then take the tongue depressor and lightly bounce it up and down to give it texture.



Next, I set the timer for 1 hour and go bother the wife. After an hour, I lick my finger and lightly run it over the Marine Tex. Pull the tape at an angle to give it a nice and sharp edge.





Then I paint it.




This is my Savage .22 I did a few months back.

 
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That is correct. Alumahyde II in Coyote. I usually use Alumahyde as a base coat if i'm going to do a Krylon camo job. I have used Alumahyde to do camo but the cure time in between coats is to long. They sent me a can of Desert Tan with no propellant in it..........
 
That's a great thread, This has been something I've been interested in doing for quite some time. Your instructions and photos are great. I noticed you used the 14oz. kit, I imagine that kit would be good for several jobs? what is the full cure time before you're able to paint?
 
That's a great thread, This has been something I've been interested in doing for quite some time. Your instructions and photos are great. I noticed you used the 14oz. kit, I imagine that kit would be good for several jobs? what is the full cure time before you're able to paint?

The 14 oz kit is about 2/3 full and I have done 3 stocks so far. It will last for quite a few stocks, beddings etc. I payed $40.00 for it at West Marine. I give it 24 hours before I spray the stock.
 
The 14 oz kit is about 2/3 full and I have done 3 stocks so far. It will last for quite a few stocks, beddings etc. I payed $40.00 for it at West Marine. I give it 24 hours before I spray the stock.

Thanks for the info, I'm gonna see if I can get it online. Not many marine distributors in my neck of the woods.
 
Looks good, I did my own texturing with a spray on product, wish I'd known about the Marine Tex.
 
Devcon also works well for this, however, I used a sponge to texture. The only complaint I had on my job was that it was very rough and required a lot of sanding. I'm pretty sure it was the sponge that I used, but not 100% sure. I just had to sand it a little bit more. It was very durable and turned out well in the end. I like the way yours turned out and it looks like you did an great job there!
 
Yup I too appreciate the pics. Makes it look so easy. I guess I'm gonna have to start a texturing project soon

Night eagle
 
Devcon also works well for this, however, I used a sponge to texture. The only complaint I had on my job was that it was very rough and required a lot of sanding. I'm pretty sure it was the sponge that I used, but not 100% sure. I just had to sand it a little bit more. It was very durable and turned out well in the end. I like the way yours turned out and it looks like you did an great job there!

I don't know if you can do it with Devcon but I wet my finger and gently rub over the compound to smooth it out after letting it sit for an hour. I also use a tongue depressor as an applicator instead of a sponge.
 
I've used the marine tex also with great results. If you tap it with a pop sickle stick and bring up the little spikes it will be very sharp, almost too sharp. I then kiss the surface a little with a sanding sponge when it's completely dry until it's just the right texture. I take the tape off after about 15 minutes and you get a nice edge. You don't have to put it on very thick, almost just a skim coat seems to work well
 
Great thread. I thought I'd ad some pics having textured upwards of 50 stocks now using similar methods. I use 3M auto pin striping tape to get the main outline, its easy to make tight turns with and easy to control, pulls off easy to give you a clean line.

1st step, lay the outline with 3M pin stripe tape and cover large areas with masking tape
gun048.jpg


next lay down a thin layer of Marine Tex or similar epoxy
gun049.jpg


allow epoxy to setup for approx 20 minutes, then use something to "lift" epoxy, tongue depressor, popsicle stick, even your finger tip with a glove on
gun050.jpg


allow to dry for approx 45 minutes, then remove masking tape followed by pin stripe tape. If you wet your finger you can lean up the edge where the tape lifted any epoxy
gun056.jpg


gun057.jpg



gun058.jpg
 
Great thread. I thought I'd ad some pics having textured upwards of 50 stocks now using similar methods. I use 3M auto pin striping tape to get the main outline, its easy to make tight turns with and easy to control, pulls off easy to give you a clean line.

They look great!!! Thanks for adding to the thread. We use pretty much the same technique. I wish I could work on stocks all day.
 
Can you tint the marine text before you apply it if you want a two-tone rifle ala Tac Ops? I have a manners T3 coming in earth brown and thought some FDE texturing would look cool.
 
I have a Bedding job coming up..and I wanna do it myself

Any Hints? I sure would love to hear them!
 


Decided to try this out on the 590a1 first. I put it on thick to beef up the grip area a bit. This pic was just after sanding to knock down the sharp points. I'm really liking the way it feels
 
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Gregg that is a beefy looking grip, did you use Marine text.

My 590A1 is in the corner behind me, I think it saw the screen as i scrolled by this... it's jealous.

Might have to do something about that, grip's a bit undersized for my hand, as well - thanks!
 
Nice thread, good methods in here. I would think the rougher/thicker texture is nice for an HD shotgun like that also. I like the way it turned out
 
I wonder if JB weld would work for a small job. I've been wanting to do this on my rifle. Where can you buy marine tex at? Is there a hazmat charge?
 
What about spray bedliner that you can buy at walmart in a can? Or the Flex Seal? Both sray on with a texture.
 
I recently painted a barrel with a rattle-can of spray on bedliner. It does have a texture to it, but not nearly as much as the 'real' spray in bed liners. It would be worth a shot (and would probably be fairly easy to strip back off if you don't like the results)
 
For those with wood (laminate) stocks, an alternative is to stipple in texture using a wood-burning tool. And if the results are not satisfactory, Marine Tex could be applied over it.

Before painting the laminated stock below, I masked off the grip area, then used various tips to burn in the desired effect. I went this route because I didn't want the grip to be fatter.

 
This is great stuff.

Now I want to try it, but alas, I don't have a garage or a yard to work in.

Some day.
 
The new Tikka's gonna get a little work done now! I am going to send the stock off to be hydro dipped. Should I wait to texture or not? I plan on duracoating the texturing and the dip is going to be Kryptek Highlander.
 
When you have extra marine tex sitting around, you tend to look for things to texture. I've never quite liked how thin the AR grips were so the magpul got a facelift...

Taped off:


Laid it on thick to beef it up:


After the unveiling:


Knocked down the sharp points with a file and some sandpaper:




I'm very happy with the way it feels now. A little tip I found out today- If any of you are impatient like me, a hair dryer on high heat makes this stuff cure MUCH faster. Almost screwed up and dried it too much to pull the tape off.
 
I used some Rustoleum rubber seal for texturing, haven't had a chance to see how it stands up to some abuse but it does set up pretty hard while also giving a bit a grip. First time I did any stock modifications. Time to see how it stands up after a few trips to the range.
 

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