Hay I just put in a Volq hammera and spring sety and now I am having stovepipes....any suggestions?
- Thread starter Dave Kravetz
- Start date
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
Deleted in protest!
Deleted in protest!
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
i put in a volquartsen exact edge extractor on one of my older 10/22s and it helped a lot in preventing stovepipes.
i put in a volquartsen exact edge extractor on one of my older 10/22s and it helped a lot in preventing stovepipes.
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
I had the same problem with a 10/22 build that I did last year.
If you are using a match grade chamber, alot of times the extractor needs to be tuned to eliminate the stove pipe issues.
(I had the same problem even with a VQ Extractor.)
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251080
The author of this article also sent me an update:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Since writing that article, I've been tuning extractors an easier way.
If the hook shape looks okay, I just clamp the hook in a vise with the rear hook upward, heat the rear lug to dark red, and tap it gently toward the hook.
The amount it's tapped depends on how loosely a casing is held by the hook. There shouldn't be any play and the hook should hold it firmly against the bolt while pushing it against the opposite side of the bolt recess. If it's too short, the hook won't clear the notch. If that happens, grind or hone the forward part of the extractor lug to make it fit properly.
If you don't tap hard enough to shorten the hook to lug space enough the first time, it can be redone several times until you get it right.
The advantage with this simplified method is that the hook never loses temper, so it doesn't need to be re-hardened. Sometimes re-hardening doesn't "take", so this is usually a better method. If the hook shape needs to be bent to better grasp the case rim, the method shown on the website should be used.
Good luck with your project.
Picher
</div></div>
I tuned mine by using a vise to slowly push the tip of the extractor further over without using any heat.
(Flat side on one jaw and round side on the other.)
When done properly, the extractor should hold the cartridge tightly against the bolt face and have minimal play.
This issue drove me nuts until I came across that article.
(I tried three aftermarket extractors and had the same stove piping issues until I tuned it.)
I had the same problem with a 10/22 build that I did last year.
If you are using a match grade chamber, alot of times the extractor needs to be tuned to eliminate the stove pipe issues.
(I had the same problem even with a VQ Extractor.)
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251080
The author of this article also sent me an update:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Since writing that article, I've been tuning extractors an easier way.
If the hook shape looks okay, I just clamp the hook in a vise with the rear hook upward, heat the rear lug to dark red, and tap it gently toward the hook.
The amount it's tapped depends on how loosely a casing is held by the hook. There shouldn't be any play and the hook should hold it firmly against the bolt while pushing it against the opposite side of the bolt recess. If it's too short, the hook won't clear the notch. If that happens, grind or hone the forward part of the extractor lug to make it fit properly.
If you don't tap hard enough to shorten the hook to lug space enough the first time, it can be redone several times until you get it right.
The advantage with this simplified method is that the hook never loses temper, so it doesn't need to be re-hardened. Sometimes re-hardening doesn't "take", so this is usually a better method. If the hook shape needs to be bent to better grasp the case rim, the method shown on the website should be used.
Good luck with your project.
Picher
</div></div>
I tuned mine by using a vise to slowly push the tip of the extractor further over without using any heat.
(Flat side on one jaw and round side on the other.)
When done properly, the extractor should hold the cartridge tightly against the bolt face and have minimal play.
This issue drove me nuts until I came across that article.
(I tried three aftermarket extractors and had the same stove piping issues until I tuned it.)
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
+1 on the volq extractor upgrade, also check all your parts are installed correctly like others have suggested.
+1 on the volq extractor upgrade, also check all your parts are installed correctly like others have suggested.
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
Replace buffer.
Replace buffer.
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
Could it be that the ammo is very high velocity therefor the bolt's cyclic rate is faster than the magazines spring???. The buffer has been polished. Thank for everyones input.
Could it be that the ammo is very high velocity therefor the bolt's cyclic rate is faster than the magazines spring???. The buffer has been polished. Thank for everyones input.
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
Just something to check, make sure the hammer strut is installed with the "E" clip's
slot up. Otherwise it will slow the hammer down and cause problems.
Just something to check, make sure the hammer strut is installed with the "E" clip's
slot up. Otherwise it will slow the hammer down and cause problems.
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
hotrod....huh????
hotrod....huh????
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ghillie Zen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i put in a volquartsen exact edge extractor on one of my older 10/22s and it helped a lot in preventing stovepipes. </div></div>
+1 and also in my Mark IIs and Mark III. The stock extractor wears out realtively quickly and will not extract reliably when things get dirty.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ghillie Zen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i put in a volquartsen exact edge extractor on one of my older 10/22s and it helped a lot in preventing stovepipes. </div></div>
+1 and also in my Mark IIs and Mark III. The stock extractor wears out realtively quickly and will not extract reliably when things get dirty.
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
I have had my stock Ruger 10/22 for probably 15 years and never took the barrel and trigger out to detail clean. I noticed that recently I have been having occasional stovepipe issues with specific ammo. I took the thing apart (finally) and cleaned it real well. I haven't been out to test it yet, but I did notice that the bolt cycles better. Also not going to buy the ammo that was stovepiping. Seems to me that a simple ammo change may fix part of your problem (or at least help diagnose it). Federal ammo likes to stovepipe in mine (every 20 or 30 rds), but CCI and Winchester run great every time.
I have had my stock Ruger 10/22 for probably 15 years and never took the barrel and trigger out to detail clean. I noticed that recently I have been having occasional stovepipe issues with specific ammo. I took the thing apart (finally) and cleaned it real well. I haven't been out to test it yet, but I did notice that the bolt cycles better. Also not going to buy the ammo that was stovepiping. Seems to me that a simple ammo change may fix part of your problem (or at least help diagnose it). Federal ammo likes to stovepipe in mine (every 20 or 30 rds), but CCI and Winchester run great every time.
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
A vq exact edge extractor is a great place to start. Or you can tune the factory one.
A vq exact edge extractor is a great place to start. Or you can tune the factory one.
Re: Stovepiping ruger 10/22
The Extractor tuning works every time and is easy to do.
Instead of looking like this:
Just put the extractor in a vise length wise and compress it until the fit is right.
Then it will look like this:
The reason this works, is by fitting the extractor so that is securely holds the case to the bolt, the ejector will make positive contact with it every time.
Since the extractor is holding one side of the brass, the impact of the ejector on the opposite side results in it being flung at a 45 degree angle out of the ejection port.
When stove piping occurs in a 10/22, the brass travels to the rear with the bolt, but instead of being flung out the ejection port, the ejector just knocks the brass forward because the extractor is not in the properly engaged with the brass.
FWIW,
Since the 10/22 is a blow back action, the extractors only job is to remove un fired cartridges and to perform the function outlined above.
(It extracts nothing during the firing sequence since the brass is what is actuating the bolt.)
*(Images taken from Rimfire Central.)
The Extractor tuning works every time and is easy to do.
Instead of looking like this:
Just put the extractor in a vise length wise and compress it until the fit is right.
Then it will look like this:
The reason this works, is by fitting the extractor so that is securely holds the case to the bolt, the ejector will make positive contact with it every time.
Since the extractor is holding one side of the brass, the impact of the ejector on the opposite side results in it being flung at a 45 degree angle out of the ejection port.
When stove piping occurs in a 10/22, the brass travels to the rear with the bolt, but instead of being flung out the ejection port, the ejector just knocks the brass forward because the extractor is not in the properly engaged with the brass.
FWIW,
Since the 10/22 is a blow back action, the extractors only job is to remove un fired cartridges and to perform the function outlined above.
(It extracts nothing during the firing sequence since the brass is what is actuating the bolt.)
*(Images taken from Rimfire Central.)
