What are you using?
Right now I’m cleaning with wipe out. Lubing with CLP then tetra gun grease on bolt lugs lol
Right now I’m cleaning with wipe out. Lubing with CLP then tetra gun grease on bolt lugs lol
- Thread starter deersniper
- Start date
Solgw liberal tears. Lube the bcg every 2-300rd, only where it's worn shiny, clean the bcg and barrel extension every 1500.
Full time surpressed. Yes, it looks really bad, but it runs fine.
Full time surpressed. Yes, it looks really bad, but it runs fine.
Hornady one shot (not case lube). Works best on polished bolt carrier groups, way less mess and fouling. CLP on normal bolt carrier groups, but it gets messy running suppressed.
MK18 factory DD upper, KAC lower, H2 buffer, Springco blue. SRT arms Typhoon can, thread mount.
LC and IMI ammunition.
shooting rapid fire drills, no more than two mags between cooling a bit.
The only lube I've found that hangs in there and doesn't require a new dose of oil to keep it wet enough to run is Rand clp.
I've tried each of these below, now I only use Rand in my MK18.
Clp
Mpro7
Lucas
Lucas extreme duty
rand clp
LC and IMI ammunition.
shooting rapid fire drills, no more than two mags between cooling a bit.
The only lube I've found that hangs in there and doesn't require a new dose of oil to keep it wet enough to run is Rand clp.
I've tried each of these below, now I only use Rand in my MK18.
Clp
Mpro7
Lucas
Lucas extreme duty
rand clp
Anyone tried Lubriplate? I recently ordered some based on this article: https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/ but haven't tried it out yet.
Weapon Shield ... By Steel Shield Technologies
The oil is better than the grease. For grease on pistols I use PL 10 ...it is just as good as W.S.( from the same owner but a product from his old Company)
The oil is better than the grease. For grease on pistols I use PL 10 ...it is just as good as W.S.( from the same owner but a product from his old Company)
Used to use oils but prefer grease now. I use cherry balmz products, but I'm sure any lightweight grease would do just fine.
Been using tw25b on everything for a while
Tw25b was what I always used till I ran out. Been using the geiselle stuff since.
This is one of my rabbit holes. At the moment, I'm using a thin coat of a paste with high MOS2 content (Jet Lube MP-50). I haven't had a chance to really run a stress test yet, but the theory is that the MOS2 is a great dry lube, so even as carbon, etc... adheres to the paste, it'll slide off easily and not adhere to the metal of the firearm.
Slip 2000.
MOS2 is a very good boundary lubricant. Graphite acts in a similar manner as the MOS2. I always wondered how a Teflon coating or suspended Teflon would work in a firearm.
Mobil 1 0-30, 5-20, 10-30 - after dumping 99% into engine, let qt bbl drain into bottle.
100%. Idk why people think a $20 bottle of "gun oil" is so much better than motor oil. I keep a needle oiler jar filled with 5w30 mobile one for the guns and presses. It's what Dillon says to use on there progressives.
For grease I get the grease gun out and fill a syringe. I think it's just John deere grease.
I have some stuff that I make because all the stuff we used in the military didn't hold up. I make a slightly different version for piston driven guns. This is what an AK piston looks like after 700 rounds while using that stuff. No lube was applied other than at the start the range session and the piston was given one wipe with a paper napkin after I disassembled the gun. The piston was still wet and the lube hadn't burned off. You can dip a small steel rod in the lube and then hold it in the flame of a propane torch and it won't start smoking for a really long time. Most gun lubes burn off WAY too easily. This is why you are having problems with your lube not lasting when you are running a suppressor. The gas that goes into your bolt carrier is around 400 deg F.
I specifically designed this stuff for a DD MK18 with a can on it. It works great in maritime environments, too.
I specifically designed this stuff for a DD MK18 with a can on it. It works great in maritime environments, too.
BTW, it costs me about 30 bucks to make about a 2 year supply of my stuff.
Gear oil has a lot of sulfurized olefin or sulfurized isobutylene to form iron sulfide which protects against extreme pressure. Gear oil is not really the best choice additive wise.
Keeping it a secret...?
Not sure if non-industrial people can get this material but ZDDP is a huge workhorse but unfortunately is not deemed environmentally friendly. It is still used in cheaper hydraulic fluid formulations but it is great stuff. It works as an anti-wear agent, anti-oxidant, corrosion inhibitor and is not harmful to yellow metals.
The dialkylthio phosphate derivative or ashless version works as well but is not quite as effective.
The dialkylthio phosphate derivative or ashless version works as well but is not quite as effective.
Yep. It is good enough to not give out. However, when I get back home I will send some out to the OP.
ETA, and to FCS.
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