Suppressor for Precision 16” .223

You’ve never owned a Banish, I take it? First problem is just getting the carbon locked thing open, even when using nickel anti-seize when putting it together. Then getting it clean enough to push the baffles out is the second trial by fire, etc etc.

I should’ve noted I haven’t attempted to clean my sealed cans yet as they are almost brand new.

But with sealed cans, there’s scads and scads of posts from people struggling to get their cans down to near their new weight. Yes, it appears some have waited too long to clean, but I value time more than money so if someone will clean it for me, I’m all for it.

Note that I am far from a clean freak. Just don’t like carbon chunks falling into my action. That sucks.

What cans do you have experience with, how do you clean, and how often?

No I have not and not talking about them. Every can I have had has been sealed and no problem cleaning them. You soak them and then wash them out. It’s simple. I have an SRT, Surefire, HuxWrx, and B&T. There’s scads of posts here by people who can’t reload also but doesn’t make it a tough process if you know how to do it.

If you want to spend TBAC money because they will clean your can then have at it. Your money.
 
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No I have not and not talking about them. Every can I have had has been sealed and no problem cleaning them. You soak them and then wash them out. It’s simple. I have an SRT, Surefire, HuxWrx, and B&T. There’s scads of posts here by people who can’t reload also but doesn’t make it a tough process if you know how to do it.

If you want to spend TBAC money because they will clean your can then have at it. Your money.
What do you use, chemical-wise and technique-wise? Do you clean down to a weight? And at what round counts? I wonder if powder makes a difference. I shoot factory Hornady Superperformance 204 40gr.

Not being a dick. I’m actually curious because my Banish cans started their life being fairly easy to open when new, but have become near impossible to open even after only 500 rds. For each can, I started keeping accurate round counts and weights due to these problems.

Soaking for days in Breakthrough made near zero difference. A couple weeks in CLR used to help, but no longer. A day or so in 50/50 diesel and acetone finally did the trick (learned that on the Hide). Fucking pain.
 
I used Hornady black powder cleaner and just soaked it standing up for a couple days and then there was a big pile of carbon fouling in the bottom of the container. I used the last of it though and they discontinued it so I will be trying one of the other soaking cleaners that are out there next time.

No I am not weighing anything but I can see it’s cleaner from all the crap that came out and looking in it. Don’t keep round count but just did it when I felt it needed it.

Never used Superformance powder so not sure about it fouling.
 
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This is the type of information that while probably true doesn't matter. Or at least doesn't manifest in reality the way we think it does when discussing on a forum. It's like the age old Akshually confronting the Fudd whose talking about his 308 over the 6.5CM. He has to explain what a ballistic coefficient is and how velocity plus BC equals more energy on target at distance. And so technically true, the 6.5CM puts more energy on target, the guy that breaks targets at a match is always shooting a 308. Whether it's because we're confusing a ballistic solvers calculated energy with mass or it just doesn't work the way we think it does.

I was shooting with a buddy yesterday who had a high back pressure, braked can on a 16" AR. That brake was LOUD. What about the 140DB ejection port? IDK. I just know that was a loud combo at the muzzle. So much so, I wouldn't choose to use that suppressor on a precision AR. I don't think this information about ejection port changes the selection of a suppressor based on sound performance.

Yeah well a can with high back pressure and loud ejection port sucks ass to shoot
 
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Yeah well a can with high back pressure and loud ejection port sucks ass to shoot
Is that what I recommended in my post?

Post in thread 'Suppressor for Precision 16” .223' https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/suppressor-for-precision-16”-223.7260870/post-12216704

How about this. Don't respond. Resist the urge to drag this dudes "recommend me a suppressor for my AR-15" thread into a philosophical and polarized argument where you divide groups of people into extreme opposing camps. If you want to say something, respond to the OP. Not me. I'm over it
 
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I'd look at either one of the CAT cans or one of the Ops inc style cans.
I have a Polonium K on my 14.5" AR and it works fine for the money. Quieter and less backpressure would be cool but hopefully the new BRT gas tube and heavier buffer/spring tame it down a bit. Personally i avoid muzzle devices. I dont play suppressor musical chairs that often either so I dont have to waste money on muzzle devices for every rifle. I will just stick to 5/8 and 1/2" muzzle threads on everything going forward.
 
I used Hornady black powder cleaner and just soaked it standing up for a couple days and then there was a big pile of carbon fouling in the bottom of the container. I used the last of it though and they discontinued it so I will be trying one of the other soaking cleaners that are out there next time.

No I am not weighing anything but I can see it’s cleaner from all the crap that came out and looking in it. Don’t keep round count but just did it when I felt it needed it.

Never used Superformance powder so not sure about it fouling.
Cool. One thing I’ve noticed with the weighing of the new can and the 1000+ rd can is that while it looks like I was getting a shit-ton of carbon out of the thing (dark liquid, chunks), it turns out I was barely made a dent, weight-wise.

For me anyway.
 
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You’ve never owned a Banish, I take it?
No, most of us have good enough noses to smell their bullshit, and so we stayed FAR away from their shitty cans, and their recently backstabbing asses. They were literally fighting AGAINST the HPA and SHORT Act recently, because it would fuck up their business model. How pathetic.

Their claims (with some of my flair added to the bottom)... Versus... What they actually said and tried to do... Saving the receipts always pays off. 😏

IMG_2822.jpegIMG_2836.jpeg
 
No, most of us have good enough noses to smell their bullshit, and so we stayed FAR away from their shitty cans, and their recently backstabbing asses. They were literally fighting AGAINST the HPA and SHORT Act recently, because it would fuck up their business model. How pathetic.

Their claims (with some of my flair added to the bottom)... Versus... What they actually said and tried to do... Saving the receipts always pays off. 😏

View attachment 8719749View attachment 8719750
Yeah, well, I bought mine around 2018. I think they are a strange company and I am aware of the lobbying. The Banish suppressors are decently designed and made by Mack Bros, but I don’t think I’ll ever buy another user serviceable can that isn’t rimfire.

What’s weird is how well the Banish 223 performs in TBAC’s tests on an AR. Shooter’s ear numbers don’t really matter in that test so much (to me) due to port noise, but look at the Mil Spec muzzle numbers. The Banish 223 is either the top performer or near the top. Surprising.
 
Is that what I recommended in my post?

Post in thread 'Suppressor for Precision 16” .223' https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/suppressor-for-precision-16”-223.7260870/post-12216704

How about this. Don't respond. Resist the urge to drag this dudes "recommend me a suppressor for my AR-15" thread into a philosophical and polarized argument where you divide groups of people into extreme opposing camps. If you want to say something, respond to the OP. Not me. I'm over it

I gotsta know
 
Most of my cans are Dead Air, and I'm not sure they even recommend cleaning them. The can I have the most rounds through, my Sierra 5, recently started experiencing carbon lock up, which had never been an issue before. Bought an ultrasonic cleaner and ran it through and that seemed to do the trick.
 
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The printed ti cans spark. Badly. At least the flwo762 do. And I hear it doesn’t get batter with use
It gets better with use to the point it's eliminated. Internet fallacy. It's true for all 3D printed cans and it's mostly down to leftover material and smaller surface imperfections that burn off. There are a few tests on YouTube and the Hux actually does as well if not better than what many consider to be the pinnacle of flash suppression.