Re: Surefire muzzle brake, opinions please.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hazardus</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Ok, understand. So they refer to a torque wrench to install this. What type of torque wrench do you use? </div></div>
You don't really <span style="font-style: italic">need</span> a torque wrench. Each SF brake comes with a timing "wheel," which is a letter sized piece of paper with a hole punched in the middle and a drawing of a large circle divided into "pie slices."
You slide the paper onto your barrel and hand tighten the muzzle brake. Depending on where the indexing slot comes to rest (the slot is supposed to sit at the 6 o'clock position when the brake is timed correctly), you read off which shims you're supposed to use. For example, you might need a green shim + blue shim.
Remove the brake and the paper. Slide on the correct shims, then use a standard USGI A2 flash hider wrench (or equivalent size) to tighten up the brake. You should not have to turn the brake more than 1/8 of a turn or so to get the indexing slot dead center at 6 o'clock. If that works, remove the brake, add Rocksett, and retighten.
Of course, you <span style="font-style: italic">should</span> be supporting the barrel correctly during this procedure by using vise jaws or something similar. It's not the best idea to rely on the barrel extension indexing pin to prevent the barrel from rotating...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hazardus</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Ok, understand. So they refer to a torque wrench to install this. What type of torque wrench do you use? </div></div>
You don't really <span style="font-style: italic">need</span> a torque wrench. Each SF brake comes with a timing "wheel," which is a letter sized piece of paper with a hole punched in the middle and a drawing of a large circle divided into "pie slices."
You slide the paper onto your barrel and hand tighten the muzzle brake. Depending on where the indexing slot comes to rest (the slot is supposed to sit at the 6 o'clock position when the brake is timed correctly), you read off which shims you're supposed to use. For example, you might need a green shim + blue shim.
Remove the brake and the paper. Slide on the correct shims, then use a standard USGI A2 flash hider wrench (or equivalent size) to tighten up the brake. You should not have to turn the brake more than 1/8 of a turn or so to get the indexing slot dead center at 6 o'clock. If that works, remove the brake, add Rocksett, and retighten.
Of course, you <span style="font-style: italic">should</span> be supporting the barrel correctly during this procedure by using vise jaws or something similar. It's not the best idea to rely on the barrel extension indexing pin to prevent the barrel from rotating...
