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Switch barrel savage?

Its only light

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 19, 2012
456
2
40
Hey guys. Im looking to build a 7mm allen xpress which is based off the 338 lapua case. I already have a savage 338 lapua in an xlr chassis that I love. My question is how practical is it to just get another barrel chambered for the gun I already have rather than spend all the money on another action (probably wouldnt be a savage), stock and optic? Does anybody out there do this? If so how do you like it? Any regrets or find yourself just shooting one rather than changing the barrel?

I know this is kind of a personal preference just want to hear thoughts from people who do this? As always money is somewhat of an issue. If it wasn't id hate to see all the guns sitring there not getting used.

On a side note im already building a 7wsm on a tikka action that I plan to throw in a krg xray chassis. Realistically this will be plenty for the informal shooting I do but as my range has expanded to 2000yds I want to mess with the allen cartridge in 7mm. Ive got plenty of "practical" guns so just building fun stuff now.
 
IMHO changing barrels, especially with the XLR chassis involved, would be such a time consuming and invasive process that you would not enjoy the full value of the package. Would you not have to remove the scope and disassemble the chassis 9(fore arm) and remove the action from the chassis in order to even begin the switch? It would never be a change you could easily make in the field should you desire.
Sorry if I am seemingly negative but I have an XLR myself (not on a Savage) and have had to take the BA out a couple of times. It is not a difficult project but it is a complete undo/redo type deal.
 
Diver my thoughts exactly on the 180s in the mid 3000s!

As far as being negative I dont take it that way at all. Those are my main concerns too. I like to think i would just pick a barrel for a range session and stick with it but we all know how bringing one gun with usually goes. I want to just do it but in the back of my mind I cant help but think one barrel would stay on most of the time due to me being lazy.

I could probably swing it with the optic on but probably wouldn't be the smartest thing to try with the nice scope I have on it. You are right the xlr is simple in design but takes a little time to disassemble and reassemble.

I guess I was hoping somebody would say I do it all the time go for it.
 
i have a savage and to switch the barrel out takes maybe a half an hour but once its installed u don't want to have to remount scope, rezero, etc. basically once its set you shoot it until ur ready for a new barrel swap. But thats just me.
 
i have a savage and to switch the barrel out takes maybe a half an hour but once its installed u don't want to have to remount scope, rezero, etc. basically once its set you shoot it until ur ready for a new barrel swap. But thats just me.

Is yours in an XLR chassis? If not, there is clearly the difference. The XLR requires a large +nut" to hold the round fore end tube in place. That has to be removed to access the Savage barrel nut. Usually the optic will need to be removed in order to remove the screws that hold the fore end tube in place. On a R700 the switch could be made in a matter of 10 to 15 minutes, I would think, without optic removal or XLR disassembly.
 
don't think that matters because ur going to have to remove the optic anyways to the change a barrel regardless of action type (with the exception of AI and the like)... Sounds like the xlr chassis just adds another step to the whole process
 
I'm working on something similar. Stevens 200 action switch barrel in an XLR chassis.

I'm trying to use a Remington style shoulder on the barrel rather than the Savage nut. The idea is to have the headspace pre set. I'm going to mill a hex into the muzzle end for a wrench and use an action wrench made from a bolt head in the rear to torque the barrel to 40 ft-lb. It looks like the XLR gives a straight 1.285" shot to the action from the front. The recoil lug is pinned. I'll use a field type headspace gauge to make sure I'm not a thread or two out for whatever reason. No need to remove anything but the bolt and barrel.

This is a composite of several switch barrel concepts that others have posted.

The first barrel is in the lathe, so I don't know for sure if it will work yet.
 
Ofb keep me posted on your progress. Very interested in this.

Im not familiar with the racine system. I will have to google that one.

Thanks for all the input here. Maybe this can work!?
 
I like that. Real similar to ofb's method. So anybody ever put a brake on one of these with the hex on the muzzle?

Also any smiths doing this for people. I could do this work but I dont have machines of my own to use and its pretty tough to find a machine thats not tied up in the few places I have access to.