yes or no?
is there a best?
and your overall opinion please
is there a best?
and your overall opinion please
- Thread starter oneshot86
- Start date
I only run synthetics in my engines anymore. Don’t know if there’s a real benefit, subjectively seems better than conventional and lasts a little longer. Last two vehicles started life on synthetic, I’ll let you know how it went in a decade or so.
Much preferred over conventional. Mobil 1 is my first choice.
OK,
Many moons ago mobile and Castrol had a lawsuit… That lawsuit basically was that Castrol was using specific manufacturing process to clean up standard motors oil and claimed that it was a synthetic motor oil.
strictly speaking they were found to be correct even though they were not using a polyalphaolefin or an ester as the baes stocks for their motor oils. (These are the base oil’s typically used for synthetic motor oil applications.)
Many years later mobile decides that if you can’t beat them you should join them. So what they did is they made a very pure group 3 base stock, And begin blending that with the true synthetic base stocks (referred to as group 4 and group 5).
The best oils:
- Any AMSOIL that indicates pure synthetic
- Redline Oil
- Royal Purple
- Penzoil natural gas derived oils
- Mobil One oils, but specifically those made for turbo applications (European versions of M1)
The best thing to do is to buy whatever oil and run it to the maximum change interval as specified by vehicles manufacturer.
then you want to send it to a laboratory to verify the oil seems to hold up well… Such as Blackstone labs. There is a website called Bob is the oil guy, and people post all sorts of oil analyses that will allow you to figure out what might work best in your car.
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When it comes to oil, the forum "Bob is the Oil Guy" is the Hide of lubrication. I've poured over articles there for many hours, and come to the conclusion that all that really matters is using the proper oil viscosity that is a quality brand and API certified, changing it regularly, and running a quality filter. My 24 year old Explorer that is my own daily driver typically gets dino 5W-30 because it costs less (and still runs great), and the wife's 2018 Subaru gets synthetic 0W-20 because that grade of oil is ONLY available in synthetic. Extending beyond normal recommended oil change intervals because you're running a synthetic is a gamble based on a $35 bottle of oil and a $5 filter.
Synthetics became the name of the game because they have less friction and give slightly better MPG, something mandated of auto manufacturers from the last administration.
What's best? Changing the oil on schedule (or sooner if hard use), and buying whatever you can get at the lowest price. If you're not running a high performance engine, pretty much oil is oil.
Synthetics became the name of the game because they have less friction and give slightly better MPG, something mandated of auto manufacturers from the last administration.
What's best? Changing the oil on schedule (or sooner if hard use), and buying whatever you can get at the lowest price. If you're not running a high performance engine, pretty much oil is oil.
Mobile 1 and Kirkland from Costco. Switched all my vehicles a while ago to Mobile 1 and now switching them to Kirkland Synthetic. The money I save goes towards more ammo.
Oh and don’t trust your local dealership is putting the oil they say they are in your car. Most of them are getting their product in bulk from a local supplier, and quality will vary.
No matter what oil you run, don't forget to add 12oz of Caro Syrup. It ads a glaze to fill in the hone marks so everything is like glass (or candied apples)
If you can’t trust them to put in what they say they are, why do you give them your business?
I work at a Ford dealership. I buy the walmart supertech full synthetic. 06 mercury and 17 explorer get the oil changed every 5k, comes out still fairly clean. Excursion V10 gas gets changed every 3,000, but I tow with it and its my hunting truck, so either its a cold start and stop or driving at least an hour with a heavy load.
I would suggest using factory filters. I have seen quite a few engines that lost oil pressure due to crappy filters.
I would suggest using factory filters. I have seen quite a few engines that lost oil pressure due to crappy filters.
MOTUL is my choice in cars, especially turbocharged.
I do run V-twin in an air-cooled car, but may just go back to VR1.
Schaeffer's also is highly recommended by some folks. I've never tried it myself; but a well respected former shop who ran in IMSA used to run it.
+1 on factory filters; unless you can get a Mahle or a Mann for your application.
I do run V-twin in an air-cooled car, but may just go back to VR1.
Schaeffer's also is highly recommended by some folks. I've never tried it myself; but a well respected former shop who ran in IMSA used to run it.
+1 on factory filters; unless you can get a Mahle or a Mann for your application.
Used Mobil 1 since the late 70's. Don't know if I benefited or not, but, I've never had an engine related failure, out 35 vehicles, motorcycles included and no matter what I did or hauled with them. Also, no oil consumption/leaking issues either. Mac
I'm not spending the cash for amsoil or redline or royal purple for a daily.
There is plenty of testing done to prove synthetics almost completely stop wear. You can find that yourself.
Mobil 1 is cheap enough, good enough, and much better than cheap dino oil. That goes in anything with a roller lifter setup.
My older flat tappet engines get amsoil z-rod because I'm tired of changing flat cams.
Oddly enough, I get better oil pressure, quicker oil pressure (noticable at -30), and less burning and leaking from Mobil 1 compared to the conventional I've ran. This is comparing 5w-30 conventional to 0-w40 Mobil 1.
Always good filters. Wix/Napa gold is hard to beat for the quality to price.
You can save a buck on filters, but if you need to save money on a filter that's already only $10 you can't afford to be on the hide.
A wix filter and Mobil 1 costs me less than $50 (gas trucks). The local lube place charges $99 for the same thing. I just do it myself as it's easier, cheaper, and I know it's right.
Avoid Fram and their cardboard construction at all costs.
There is plenty of testing done to prove synthetics almost completely stop wear. You can find that yourself.
Mobil 1 is cheap enough, good enough, and much better than cheap dino oil. That goes in anything with a roller lifter setup.
My older flat tappet engines get amsoil z-rod because I'm tired of changing flat cams.
Oddly enough, I get better oil pressure, quicker oil pressure (noticable at -30), and less burning and leaking from Mobil 1 compared to the conventional I've ran. This is comparing 5w-30 conventional to 0-w40 Mobil 1.
Always good filters. Wix/Napa gold is hard to beat for the quality to price.
You can save a buck on filters, but if you need to save money on a filter that's already only $10 you can't afford to be on the hide.
A wix filter and Mobil 1 costs me less than $50 (gas trucks). The local lube place charges $99 for the same thing. I just do it myself as it's easier, cheaper, and I know it's right.
Avoid Fram and their cardboard construction at all costs.
If Amzoil was "that good" we all would already be using it........think about it.
Spend what you can afford to spend in motor repairs....or oil....whatever is cheaper.
Spend what you can afford to spend in motor repairs....or oil....whatever is cheaper.
I use mobil 1 in both my bike and truck. In my OPINION if you are driving your vehicles a lot, mostly highway or longer trips and changing every 3000, I doubt you will see a difference between synthetic and regular oils.
In my OPINION where synthetics excel in dealing with harsh conditions & aggravating factors. Also they allows for longer change intervals especially if you don’t put on a lot of miles. Stop and go, cold start, short trips, low miles, urban driving etc are all things I consider “harsh conditions or aggravation factors”
In my OPINION where synthetics excel in dealing with harsh conditions & aggravating factors. Also they allows for longer change intervals especially if you don’t put on a lot of miles. Stop and go, cold start, short trips, low miles, urban driving etc are all things I consider “harsh conditions or aggravation factors”
I saw an old Harley run HARD for two racing seasons on Amzoil. The engine was torn down and looked like it was just rebuilt the day before. Solid, real world experience in an oil.
I have used nothing but synthetic oils in vehicles since the 80's
Back then, it really mattered, even in a typical grocery getter
TODAY, fossil oils have gotten good enough and the additives are good enough that they get the job done just fine for the typical grocery getter for the typical person on the typical road. Don't think of it in terms of synthetic vs fossil, think of it terms of the oil package as the manufacturer designed it - some have more of this and some have more of that, as long as the complete formula is enough to protect your engine, then its good enough (meet or exceed manufacturer recommendations)
That said, it boils down to cost for me, and even though I know fossil oils are good today, I have been able to find on sale or with rebate or both Mobil 1, Penzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, Shell, Napa, etc 'Synthetic' oils so cheap that I have not bought any fossil oils to save the $2. I stock up when I find the deal. I think I had something like 80 quarts of oil on the self at one point (I have 5 vehicles)
I have taken several cars to 200k plus miles and even at that mileage never needed oil topped off between changes in anything
I change oil myself in all my vehicles, that is where the cost savings is. Typical Mobil 1 is $22 for a 5 quart, get a $10 rebate check, buy a $5 filter, oil changed for $17. Take it to a shop and that mobil 1 change is $50 (if they even actually change it and don't damage something else in the process)
If you have a high performance engine or drive in extreme conditions (towing etc) them you should get a better oil, *IF* you plan to keep the car long term. If you have a 3 year lease, put in whatever meets the manufacturer requirements at the lowest price.
I even put mobil 1 in my lawn mower lol
Back then, it really mattered, even in a typical grocery getter
TODAY, fossil oils have gotten good enough and the additives are good enough that they get the job done just fine for the typical grocery getter for the typical person on the typical road. Don't think of it in terms of synthetic vs fossil, think of it terms of the oil package as the manufacturer designed it - some have more of this and some have more of that, as long as the complete formula is enough to protect your engine, then its good enough (meet or exceed manufacturer recommendations)
That said, it boils down to cost for me, and even though I know fossil oils are good today, I have been able to find on sale or with rebate or both Mobil 1, Penzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, Shell, Napa, etc 'Synthetic' oils so cheap that I have not bought any fossil oils to save the $2. I stock up when I find the deal. I think I had something like 80 quarts of oil on the self at one point (I have 5 vehicles)
I have taken several cars to 200k plus miles and even at that mileage never needed oil topped off between changes in anything
I change oil myself in all my vehicles, that is where the cost savings is. Typical Mobil 1 is $22 for a 5 quart, get a $10 rebate check, buy a $5 filter, oil changed for $17. Take it to a shop and that mobil 1 change is $50 (if they even actually change it and don't damage something else in the process)
If you have a high performance engine or drive in extreme conditions (towing etc) them you should get a better oil, *IF* you plan to keep the car long term. If you have a 3 year lease, put in whatever meets the manufacturer requirements at the lowest price.
I even put mobil 1 in my lawn mower lol
I put Amsoil in all my vehicles. Better acceleration, better mileage, runs smoother, and the engine will last forever if you change oil regularly. A buddy who was a Semi driver bought one of the Amsoil kits and very 20 K or so he'd drain out a n ounce or so and send it in for test. They finally told him to change it at (wait for it)
180.000 miles.
My 2002 Chevy Express 3500 van has 265000 and purrs like a kitten.
Amsoil is good stuff.
180.000 miles.
My 2002 Chevy Express 3500 van has 265000 and purrs like a kitten.
Amsoil is good stuff.
Here's a bit on insight if I may.
I work in an R&D facility for petroleum additives. As mentioned earlier "Bob is the Oil Guy" has a wealth of knowledge but application and technology are a huge factor to determine performance of an oil. Port injection vs DIG, turbo vs naturally aspirated, gas or diesel...Seal compatibility is also a consideration that we test for in our facility to ensure there is no breakdown of material. Microscopic metals; lead, copper, iron also impact performance as does byproducts from the combustion process such as blowby (the fuel you run in your vehicle impacts oil performance) ...Asking for the best oil isn't a realistic question.
All in all, industry tests are designed to break (fail) oil anywhere from 100 hours of testing to 500 hours of testing for engine oils and up to 500/1000 hours for ATF and MTF. These tests are extremely severe in order to show results quickly. We also run road tests as well since bench testing has it's limitations.
AMSOIL has run double length tests and passed... Kendal Titanium is another top shelf product that has had great results... but testing is is standardized. There are many different tests a single oil must pass to show performance characteristics to be approved for OE/API certifications.
Performance is a balancing act and so is the chemistry involved. Typically thicker oils protect against wear better... however, the engine must work harder (more resistance to rotate in thicker oil) causing less fuel economy. Thinner oils typically have better fuel economy but may allow some wear (still within passing limits of the test). Our analytical data confirms this. To add more to this; some companies don't want the best additive package... but only something that meets minimum requirements. Better product = more expensive product. At the end of the day an oil either passes or fails. It really is that simple.
Follow the manufactures certification codes, change your oil at recommended intervals, pick the brand you trust the most and you will be just fine BUT DO NOT GO CHEAP ON AN OIL FILTER!
I run AMSOIL full synthetic in everything I own, both 2 and 4 stroke
Have two Toyota Tacoma’s , a 1998 with 322,000 miles and a 2014 with only 8,000 miles.
As soon as Toyota quit free oil changes , went to Mobil 1 . I buy and use Toyota filters
Have friends that swear by Amsoil. Think changing it regularly is equally important.
As soon as Toyota quit free oil changes , went to Mobil 1 . I buy and use Toyota filters
Have friends that swear by Amsoil. Think changing it regularly is equally important.
Sitting here reading this thread is giving me flashbacks of collecting oil samples.
Now I gotta go clean my throttle bodies and maf sensors.
Now I gotta go clean my throttle bodies and maf sensors.
I use Mobil 1 on my guns and wifes Jetta,I was running it in the Outback but switched to bottled Subaru Synthetic and a Mobil filter.
Jeep gets High mileage Valvoline with a Ford FL-1A
Oil is oil where I retired from we bought it by the rail car.
Changing it on time is key
Jeep gets High mileage Valvoline with a Ford FL-1A
Oil is oil where I retired from we bought it by the rail car.
Changing it on time is key
Depending on what you drive that might not be such a good idea. Every corporation has to answer to 3 entities, the Government, the stock holders and the customer. How many times do you think you come first? (at best 33.3%).
I run schaeffers where I can. Regular oil changes, and high quality filters. I use the same oil each oil change as well. I feel synthetic's are better in applications where the engine is brought up to temp vs short drive scenarios. At least with diesels. Not scared of Dino oil however. I've had good luck with good maintenance.
wow, i sure am thankful .
i knew to ask it here, we never fail
our scope of knowledge is probably very complete, thanks again
i knew to ask it here, we never fail
our scope of knowledge is probably very complete, thanks again
I started running synthetic with a 15k mile oil filter, and change at 10k. Only 20k down on this experiment but I can buy another running Subaru engine for 300 and put it inn in half an afternoon. When I was at school, there was a Toyota pickup with a a couple bypass filters, they would change the filters every so many thousand, and pull a sample of oil for testing. It had well over 200k on the oil. Keeping the oil clean is the important part.
It's been said already, Mobile 1 and a good filter. Change every 5k. I've had a couple vehicles that were good to 7000 on it but that always seemed like a stretch to me. Buy it at Costco or Walmart, they have the best prices on decent oil.Only thing I will buy at Walmart actually.
I’ve ran rotella in my 2011 f-250 with Ford filters with 470,000 on it, I change it when it tells me to usually around 7-7500
Damn....I came here to decompress from BITOG but here we are on synthetics! HA!
Seriously, quality synthetics are absolutely better, period. I’m *extremely* partial to Schaeffer’s...I believe they are as good as anything out there. That being said, after seeing the Blackstone results, I wouldn’t hesitate to run Amsoil, Mobil, or RP. All great stuff. Whatever you do, get a good filter - something by Donaldson, Fleetguard, Baldwin, Parker/Racor, etc...
Seriously, quality synthetics are absolutely better, period. I’m *extremely* partial to Schaeffer’s...I believe they are as good as anything out there. That being said, after seeing the Blackstone results, I wouldn’t hesitate to run Amsoil, Mobil, or RP. All great stuff. Whatever you do, get a good filter - something by Donaldson, Fleetguard, Baldwin, Parker/Racor, etc...
My 2002 Tahoe with 197K miles has been re-oiled with Walmart's finest 5W30 semi-synthetic since the dealership stopped doing oil changes. Zero issues... ever. Changed every 5K using whatever filter is on sale so long as it's not an orange Fram can. Typically I just get a Purolator, NAPA, or the AC Delco.
My 2016 Mustang GT time attack track car got Rotella T6 5W40 changed every 8 track hours, which according to Blackstone reports was stupid overkill.
My VW gets the synthetic German-tastic-expensive-juice because I negotiated 5 oil changes into the purchase. They probably use some rando syn oil.
My Harley got Redline products. Of course I built that to a Stage 3 103" Fueling 574 cammed destroyer and proceeded to beat the shit out of tires.
My Honda motorcycle gets Castrol Actevo because it's fine and it's a Honda and it's not going to break... ever.
I don't bother with Amsoil. The freakin' Amway/Mary Kay for men of oils. Spare me that malarkey.
And literally NOTHING from Royal Purple will ever touch anything of mine. Rip off junk.
My 2016 Mustang GT time attack track car got Rotella T6 5W40 changed every 8 track hours, which according to Blackstone reports was stupid overkill.
My VW gets the synthetic German-tastic-expensive-juice because I negotiated 5 oil changes into the purchase. They probably use some rando syn oil.
My Harley got Redline products. Of course I built that to a Stage 3 103" Fueling 574 cammed destroyer and proceeded to beat the shit out of tires.
My Honda motorcycle gets Castrol Actevo because it's fine and it's a Honda and it's not going to break... ever.
I don't bother with Amsoil. The freakin' Amway/Mary Kay for men of oils. Spare me that malarkey.
And literally NOTHING from Royal Purple will ever touch anything of mine. Rip off junk.
I find Blackstone's lack of specific information, general wording and 3rd party testing facilities telling of their intentions and capabilities.
Having the TBN, TAN, Pb, FE and other analytical numbers is just one part of the equation. Can they provide pre and post sample measurement numbers on cam lobes, crank journals, ring gap, valve seats and post run recession, etc...? How about weighted piston deposits, carbon build up on ring lands and grooves? Can they speak to varnish ratings? What do they say about oil consumption in your particular application? Not saying your oil changes were too frequent but having a number doesn't tell a complete story. I could be wrong but they appear to prey (make money) on the uninformed.
Cheers,
I was a Ford dealer technician 20 years ago, and have been doing side work on all the big 3 domestics since then. I have a customer with a 275,000 mile 1997 Tahoe 5.7 that has had nothing but Valvoline conventional oil every 3000 miles for its entire life. I had to change intake gaskets on it at about 250,000 which requires pulling at least one valve cover to get the intake off. The engine had ZERO sludge or deposits in the rocker arm area. Regular oil changes with a good filter and oil is key. My general rule of thumb is to change dino oil at 3000 miles, and synthetics at 5000 miles. Cheap insurance.
All my gasoline engines get either Valvoline, Havoline, or Mobil 1 synthetic every 5000 miles. Plus a good quality oil filter like Napa/Wix (same), Motorcraft, Mobil 1, K&N, or Purolator. ACDelco and Mopar filters are hit and miss as they always have the cheapest contract bidder make them. My Dodge Cummnis gets Chevron Delo conventional oil every 7500 miles with a Fleetguard (Cummins subsidiary) Stratopore oil filter. I don't worry about synthetic in a diesel as a diesel engine doesn't dilute the crankcase oil nearly as much as a gasoline engine will. I also run Diesel Kleen fuel additive in the diesel fuel to make up for lost lubricity of the EPA mandated ultra low sulphur fuels. I'm still on original injectors at 260,000 miles.
All my gasoline engines get either Valvoline, Havoline, or Mobil 1 synthetic every 5000 miles. Plus a good quality oil filter like Napa/Wix (same), Motorcraft, Mobil 1, K&N, or Purolator. ACDelco and Mopar filters are hit and miss as they always have the cheapest contract bidder make them. My Dodge Cummnis gets Chevron Delo conventional oil every 7500 miles with a Fleetguard (Cummins subsidiary) Stratopore oil filter. I don't worry about synthetic in a diesel as a diesel engine doesn't dilute the crankcase oil nearly as much as a gasoline engine will. I also run Diesel Kleen fuel additive in the diesel fuel to make up for lost lubricity of the EPA mandated ultra low sulphur fuels. I'm still on original injectors at 260,000 miles.
I like synthetic lubricants, and use quite a few different kinds of them (engine oil, transmission fluid, greases).
When Amsoil first came out, one of my co-workers was trying to become a dealer and was giving everyone at work a really hard time using the hard sell about it. Back then, regular oil was around seventy five cents a can, and Amsoil was around $5 or $10 a can...I can't remember which price, but it was far more expensive than regular oil.
He wouldn't leave me alone about buying some and told me that I could go 15,000 between oil changes with Amsoil, and the only thing I could think of to shut him up was telling him that I already either go 15,000 between oil changes, or wait for the engine oil light on the dash to let me know the engine needs oil. (Neither was true). I guess he thought that I was a complete idiot as it related to my engine and oil so he finally left me alone. Oil changes with either regular or synthetic oil happen about every 3,000 miles..some times I might go 5,000, but normally it is closer to 3K.
ETA: for a terrific firearms lubricant, try mixing 50/50 synthetic engine oil and synthetic transmission fluid. Then I mix in some synthetic grease to increase the viscosity so the Lube stays where I put it on the frame rails of a pistol rather than just running out.
At around $10 per quart, I end up with 2 quarts of really good lubricant for firearms. If you think about it, the pressures and heat under which engines and transmissions operate are similar to those of a firearm. It just makes sense that a lubricant designed to be effective under the heat and pressure of vehicular use would also work for firearms. So far, it has worked out really well for me, and it beats the dickens out of paying $7-10 for a 4 ounce bottle of "firearms oil".
When Amsoil first came out, one of my co-workers was trying to become a dealer and was giving everyone at work a really hard time using the hard sell about it. Back then, regular oil was around seventy five cents a can, and Amsoil was around $5 or $10 a can...I can't remember which price, but it was far more expensive than regular oil.
He wouldn't leave me alone about buying some and told me that I could go 15,000 between oil changes with Amsoil, and the only thing I could think of to shut him up was telling him that I already either go 15,000 between oil changes, or wait for the engine oil light on the dash to let me know the engine needs oil. (Neither was true). I guess he thought that I was a complete idiot as it related to my engine and oil so he finally left me alone. Oil changes with either regular or synthetic oil happen about every 3,000 miles..some times I might go 5,000, but normally it is closer to 3K.
ETA: for a terrific firearms lubricant, try mixing 50/50 synthetic engine oil and synthetic transmission fluid. Then I mix in some synthetic grease to increase the viscosity so the Lube stays where I put it on the frame rails of a pistol rather than just running out.
At around $10 per quart, I end up with 2 quarts of really good lubricant for firearms. If you think about it, the pressures and heat under which engines and transmissions operate are similar to those of a firearm. It just makes sense that a lubricant designed to be effective under the heat and pressure of vehicular use would also work for firearms. So far, it has worked out really well for me, and it beats the dickens out of paying $7-10 for a 4 ounce bottle of "firearms oil".
If one wants to start an endless debate at an old car gathering... bring up oil... but I can tell you what I do and why.
First, I run synthetic in all my modern cars. But only after they have covered 10,000 miles. Unless a car is 'shipped' (aka designed) to run with synthetic from new, then the synthetic 'may' interfere with the break-in. Lots of cars now (BMW and Corvette among others) come right from the factory running synthetic.
After 10,000 miles, I use synthetic.
On older cars I don't disagree with it. But there are two thoughts there. One is that if the engine already leaks oil, it will leak more. Synthetic has much better 'seeking' properties than 'Rock Oil.' And if the car sits for long periods, I tend to not use synthetic as it is not as 'clingy' and tends to leave metal unprotected (or perhaps the better term is less-protected) than traditional oil.
There are a million opinions... and none of them are really wrong. My oil lessons came from lectures at old car meets by a guy named Bryan Jones who was a senior exec at Exxon and BP and became a big car collector. That and rebuilding old engines that were not well-treated.
The number one lesson I always followed is that oil changes are cheap. Engine rebuilds and replacements are expensive. Change your oil and filter regularly. Even if the dealer has long intervals, doubling up at no more than 3k miles is cheap compared to wearing out a car prematurely.
Sirhr
First, I run synthetic in all my modern cars. But only after they have covered 10,000 miles. Unless a car is 'shipped' (aka designed) to run with synthetic from new, then the synthetic 'may' interfere with the break-in. Lots of cars now (BMW and Corvette among others) come right from the factory running synthetic.
After 10,000 miles, I use synthetic.
On older cars I don't disagree with it. But there are two thoughts there. One is that if the engine already leaks oil, it will leak more. Synthetic has much better 'seeking' properties than 'Rock Oil.' And if the car sits for long periods, I tend to not use synthetic as it is not as 'clingy' and tends to leave metal unprotected (or perhaps the better term is less-protected) than traditional oil.
There are a million opinions... and none of them are really wrong. My oil lessons came from lectures at old car meets by a guy named Bryan Jones who was a senior exec at Exxon and BP and became a big car collector. That and rebuilding old engines that were not well-treated.
The number one lesson I always followed is that oil changes are cheap. Engine rebuilds and replacements are expensive. Change your oil and filter regularly. Even if the dealer has long intervals, doubling up at no more than 3k miles is cheap compared to wearing out a car prematurely.
Sirhr
Sitting here reading this thread is giving me flashbacks of collecting oil samples.
Now I gotta go clean my throttle bodies and maf sensors.
Do you use Brakleen on the throttle plates?
Oh and something that is not often discussed is ZDDP, an unpronounceable Zinc additive that is critical for flat tappet engines. Older engines with flat tappets need the ZDDP additive in the engine oil or severe (and rapid) tappet wear can occur. There are racing oils and (for a long time) Rotella-T diesel oil still had ZDDP in it, though it may be in the process of being phased out. There are "off road" racing oils and also additives available for older flat tappet engines.
The Zinc/ZDDP added to oils was apparently causing premature clogging or issues with catalytic converters and emission systems. So it was removed from oils (Thanks EPA) and the damage to the cores of the engines has been severe. A lot of muscle-cars, British sports cars, etc. are running these flat tappets and I have seen the damage caused by non ZDDP oils. Its not pretty and it is always expensive.
Also, for older cars (aka those with bronze gears or bearing shells), ZDDP is just fine. EXCEPT when run in high-concentrations. Then it will attack yellow metals inside the engine. So follow the instructions... ZDDP additives are not a "More is better" proposition. Follow the instructions and you are GTG.
I have some pictures of destroyed tappets somewhere... I'll post later if anyone is interested.
Sirhr
The Zinc/ZDDP added to oils was apparently causing premature clogging or issues with catalytic converters and emission systems. So it was removed from oils (Thanks EPA) and the damage to the cores of the engines has been severe. A lot of muscle-cars, British sports cars, etc. are running these flat tappets and I have seen the damage caused by non ZDDP oils. Its not pretty and it is always expensive.
Also, for older cars (aka those with bronze gears or bearing shells), ZDDP is just fine. EXCEPT when run in high-concentrations. Then it will attack yellow metals inside the engine. So follow the instructions... ZDDP additives are not a "More is better" proposition. Follow the instructions and you are GTG.
I have some pictures of destroyed tappets somewhere... I'll post later if anyone is interested.
Sirhr
Electronic sensor cleaner for the maf unit and throttle body/intake cleaner for the butterfly thingy.Do you use Brakleen on the throttle plates?
Was a joke. Brakleen will strip the protective coating off the plate.
Yeah not a good mix.
My first car had a plastic butterfly valve, it warped from heat and would idle so high it would take you into 3rd gear on its own. 
Thanks for that info.
Here are a few photos of industry standard tests. The parts in the pics show passing vs failing. Nothing takes the place of proper maintenance...
View attachment 7400773
