My car has drain plugs on the trans and diff. My truck and van do not. This is automaker logic
- Thread starter oneshot86
- Start date
My car has drain plugs on the trans and diff. My truck and van do not. This is automaker logic
'07 Tundra running regular oil. The dealership told me to stay with regular oil if the truck started with regular oil. They said that if I shifted to synthetic oil, I would get gasket leaks.
On the surface that seems like bull, I run synthetic in my wife’s 03 sequoia, should be the same engine, the only oil leak I’ve had trouble with is when I re-use a crush washer in a pinch, so my fault. Our back up car is an 07 Camry which has had synthetic in it since I started doing maintenance on it 6 years ago, only leak with that was a hardened valve cover gasket that I fixed before the first oil change I did on it. The dealer has a vested interest in you coming in for regular service and the 3000 mile interval used for most natural oils is pretty good at getting you into the shop so they can do other checks and tack on other “needed” services.
I swear by Amsoil , I bought a Semi in the early 90's that had Amsoil put in it new and I acquired all of the service and oil analysis's, Per Amsoil instructions filters were changed every 15,000 miles and oil was to be topped off ( 1 Gal), I lost a head gasket at 480,000 miles and figured it was due for an oil change, Amsoil Rep came and tested it and said it was good to go, I sold the truck with 650,000 miles on it with the same oil, I've used it ever since, The truck had a 400 ATA Cat in it
Bullshit...however if it ain't broke....
'83 ford 3L diesel in a farm tractor. I typ use rotella t4 in it. GTG?
@sirhrmechanic ?
@sirhrmechanic ?
Mobil 1 been running it in all my vehicles for decades. Change about ever 10,000.
Same story I heard from a buddy who was a long distance trucker.
Depends on the engine. My modern V6 Toyota engine- synthetic Mobil One all the way. I change it every 8k miles. The 351W in my '77 Bronco leaks like a mother with dinosaur oil despite being freshly built- synthetic would be a disaster. Same goes for the F134 engine in my 1970 CJ.
My dealer service shop recommended Pennzoil Synthetic Blend 5W-20, and that's what they used until my free maintenance ended at 100K miles. I continued with it, then did a bit of research and concluded that synthetic oil is synthetic oil, period. My car computer calls out my oil changes, at 7k miles. These days I use this, a pure synthetic. My Grandson and I do our own oil changes. We have the Dodge, a 2009 Mustang Pony Convertible, and a 1992 Chev pickup between the four folks in our home.
The Odometer is around 180,000 these days. 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan Crew, 273HP Pentastar V-6 E-85 rated. Car was bought 6 months old from dealer, who said it was a rental fleet car with 7k miles. I had it certified as a Chrysler Certified used car, and bought every warrantee available including the Maximum Plus which allows a $150 deductible on anything for 999,999 miles. Under warrantee, they have replaced a cylinder head and a transmission, $150 apiece. Cost-wise, the used car and all the warranties was less than the sticker on a new 2012.
No leaks, the old oil comes out brown, and the car runs fine. I use filters labelled for synthetic oils, and have stayed away from the high mileage oils since the seals still appear to be nominal. The car still appears and runs as new.
Clean oil and good filters are key to engine longevity. But, if the engine goes, it only costs me $150.
Greg
The Odometer is around 180,000 these days. 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan Crew, 273HP Pentastar V-6 E-85 rated. Car was bought 6 months old from dealer, who said it was a rental fleet car with 7k miles. I had it certified as a Chrysler Certified used car, and bought every warrantee available including the Maximum Plus which allows a $150 deductible on anything for 999,999 miles. Under warrantee, they have replaced a cylinder head and a transmission, $150 apiece. Cost-wise, the used car and all the warranties was less than the sticker on a new 2012.
No leaks, the old oil comes out brown, and the car runs fine. I use filters labelled for synthetic oils, and have stayed away from the high mileage oils since the seals still appear to be nominal. The car still appears and runs as new.
Clean oil and good filters are key to engine longevity. But, if the engine goes, it only costs me $150.
Greg
Last edited:
Napa Gold oil filter 1085 for a Dodge 360 V8 is made by Mann. Good stuff.
It varies, where NG filters are sourced from.
Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1, and Lucas (for DD) in that order.
I've got an 86 with the same motor. All its ever seen is straight 30w penzoil. Still doesn't use oil. We change it once a season. Used rotella in my diesels over the years and found some straight 30w rotella at Walmart one day. Tried it in the tractor and it started using oil. Following season went back to penzoil and no more using oil. I run Mobil delvac in my trucks now. All dino oil.
Ford 10 series was the best smaller tractors ever made. Hopefully one of my kids will put my old ford to use when I'm gone. Can't say the same about current production tractors.
- Nov 3, 2010
- 8,671
- 17,625
Just remember people if Amzoil was that good we all would already be using it in our motors.
Yes. Jet fuel is much more refined for impurities for obvious reasons. But in general, all kerosene.
Aviation fuel is what most people are referring to when they say "jet fuel". Aviation fuel is extremely high octane to deal with high altitudes and forced induction.
Aviation fuel is what most people are referring to when they say "jet fuel". Aviation fuel is extremely high octane to deal with high altitudes and forced induction.
Diesel Fuel is #2, kerosene and JP1 is #1 wich is kerosene with additives.
The difference between #1 and #2 is the "gel point" or "cloud point", which is the temperature below which the paraffins and heavier fractions will begin to solidify. Obviously, cold-weather operation requires a lower gel point, but removal of the wax and heavy fractions results in a fuel that lubricates poorly (important to the injection pump), doesn't ignite as easily (heavier fractions break apart more easily) and doesn't contain as much energy.
Older engines burn #1 just fine, and I remember when it was offered at the pump as a motor fuel for cold-weather use. The old-timers here can probably tell stories about mixing #1 and #2 according to the expected weather.
No way in fuck that I would run anything but straight #2 in my modern diesels.
Older engines burn #1 just fine, and I remember when it was offered at the pump as a motor fuel for cold-weather use. The old-timers here can probably tell stories about mixing #1 and #2 according to the expected weather.
No way in fuck that I would run anything but straight #2 in my modern diesels.
As you're based in MI, no way in fuck are you getting anything except a non straight #1 + #2 blend in your "winter diesel".
Agreed:
That's from a fuel station in the UP. I'm thinking our downstate pumps are probably serving up a somewhat higher gel point. But your point remains.
My counterpoint would be that there is a difference between that pump blend, and me dumping in random amounts of kerosene or whatever additives are being pushed inside the gas station convenience store.
A difference for better or worse, would you say?
Does MI mandate B2/B5?
Does MI mandate B2/B5?
WHAT????
Completely wrong....
"jet fuel" is generally called Jet-A, although there are quite a few derivatives... Its highly refined kerosene/diesel... very dry.
"aviation fuel" is generally called Av Gas or 100LL(low lead)... Its basically gasoline with lead in it...
They are not the same. Although a turbine(jet) engine can burn av gas(a turbine engine will burn damn near anything) a piston engine can NOT burn Jet-A... It would be like putting diesel in a gas car.
I wasn't going to reply as I thought this reply and the ones by Lil Casino really said all there is to say.
The folks that insist on 3000 mile changes, congratulations, you have been had by oil industry and Jiffy Lube propaganda. You are indeed their target audience. Bravo.
The 3000 mile thing had merit about 40-50 years ago in the engines of the time that had more blowby and the oil not as good. But guess what? Engines and oil are better now. Many manufacturers now suggest 8-10,000 mile intervals.
Now opinions aside, some pretty good lab testing provided the following results after testing for bearing scar wear, cold flow properties (zero degree F testing), cook off (exposure to very high heat) properties and some more stuff. This was done with new oil and oil run hard for an equivalent of 10,000 miles (on a test stand).
Without getting into the details here, the clear overall winner was in fact Amsoil. At the second tier, you had Redline, Pennzoil Platinum, and Schaffers. Mobil 1, Moly Lube and Royal Purple after that. They were all changing places depending upon the specific tests but Amsoil was the clear winner.
Now to be sure, there really isn't a "bad" oil out there now, just some are better than others. But the OP was about "best"
Full disclosure, I use Schaffers in my diesels and Mobil 1 in my gassers.
The advice to read up at Bob is the oil guy was the best advice given.
The opinions expressed here are just that.
You must not drive a direct injection engine yet. Blow-by and fuel dilution is a huge issue again in modern vehicles.
This is quite correct and if you run a Cummins diesel, you are advised to use some ZDDP additive.
Compared to the retarded recipes that I heard from people coming into my dad's truck shop during my formative years, I'll gamble with whatever the pumps puke out.
MI has no biofuel mandate. I saw B5 at a handful of local pumps maybe 10-15 years ago (back when everyone was horny to burn cooking oil), but can't recall running across it in recent times.
As I understand things, the EPA finalized a regulation back in 2019 that will supposedly kick in next year and mandate a minimum overall biofuel content in all diesel fuel sold, so B5 is probably coming back to some extent. I'll avoid it as much as I can.
I am very aware of DI engines and the effects they have. Don't over sell it. The biggest problem is with carbon deposits on the valves.
It's not just direct injection - cylinder pressures are typically much higher in newer engines, and most have "low tension" piston rings. Combine that with already-thin oils, and fuel dilution is a certain.
That being said, oil analysis on my wife's EcoBoost Flex doesn't suggest that changing the oil more frequently than the manufacturer's recommended internal is necessary. Obviously, that should not be considered representative of every SIDI engine. My suggestion is that everyone should do their own homework.
Menards here runs sale's on their full syn from time. I pick whatever it is if its cheaper than Walmart full syn. Have about 7 cases of Havoline and Valvoline sitting in the garage. Never had any issues. Always go with Napa gold filters.
Bio is actually supposed to contain a shit ton of lubricity...
I'm not opposed to bio diesel. Some of it is algae based which is kind of a cool technology.
There are some rather complex factors that can lead to corrosion in some cases. I won't claim that it's guaranteed to harm a diesel engine, but there better be some confidence in the fuel before risking an expensive fuel system (or maybe the whole motors if things get really bad).
Philosophically, I agree that it's interesting stuff.
I think that the problem with bio diesel is it could be anything from fryer oil to algae biotroph and a few other things in between...and nobody really knows or talks about what it is. I think the bigger issue is the government, like with ethanol in gasoline, is going to mandate B5 without knowing fuck all about it and will let the everyday Joe figure out what breaks, corrodes, etc... on their vehicles and then the manufacturers will adjust their parts to resist any B5 issues... same with ethanol, same with DEF...
I have a diesel chevy cruze so the diesel stuff interests me, although with all the emissions stuff anything but pure diesel scares me a little. I dont even run any additives, but my car doesnt have a pump thats known to explode so...
When i lived in Goodland there was guy with an old diesel car that ran on fryer oil and such. He said his biggest problem was keeping it thin enough to flow in the cold. A diesel will run oil. Ever have one run away because the after cooler has filled with oil from the turbo. It will make your butt hole pucker. We had a few come that wouldn't shut off too. Turn the key off it it would just keep chugging. LOL.
I didn't say they were the same. I stated that most laymen refer to av gas as jet fuel.
My buddy may or may not run Jet-A with ATF mixed into it in his older Dodge... He has to pull 5 gallons of Jet-A every morning out of 2 trucks which would normally be trashed...
I miss-remembered. My filter is a 20k mile oil filter. Now I don't feel bad for running it to 15K. Na thats a lie. I didn't feel bad about it. What you think your car can last forever?
