Tempilaq and annealing

[IanB]

Following on from a discussion on this board about annealing I decided to try it using Tempilaq as a heat indicator.

I started of using 475F tempilaq about a quarter inch down the case wall, everything worked well, the Tempilaq turned to a clear liquid upon the right temperature, as soon as it turned to liquid I removed the heat and used a damp cloth to quickly remove any excess.

I was then told that this wouldn't anneal the necks as the temperature wasn't going to be hot enough for long enough on the necks. So I decided to do some tests and buy a bottle of 650F and 750F Tempilaq and apply the 650F to the neck and the 450F in the normal place and then repeat using the 750F.

This is where it all goes tits up, neither the 650F or 750F would change to a clear liquid (as indicated on the bottle), it just turned black and became a bitch to remove. The 450F (white)looks like a paste, but the 650 (orange) and the 750 (blue) are very watery and it appears that what ever is in the bottle has separated? I have shaken them well to mix them up and have applied heat both direct and indirectly to them both.

I have contacted the UK company that I purchased it from and in 11 years of stocking Tempilaq they have never had a complaint, trust me to be unique!

Can anyone here shed any light on my predicament,if anyone is using Tempilaq can you tell me what it looks like before and after having heat applied.

 

[memilanuk]

Re: Tempilaq and annealing

Ian,

Unfortunately I pitched my 475F tempilaq before I found out about the thinner that can be used to rejuvenate it. I do have bottles of 500, 600, 700, 800, & 900, though. Just for kicks, I put a wide stripe of 500F tempilaq from the corner of the shoulder on down, and a stripe of 800 from the case mouth down to the shoulder-neck junction. Ran the case (Winchester .308) through my Brass-O-Matic annealer on the time I have it currently set at. The 800F strip pretty much charred quickly, as you noted, and the 500F strip liquified to about 1/4-5/16" down from the shoulder, nice and glossy.

My feeling is that the flame heat from the torches burns up the tempilaq on the case neck sooner than it should i.e. the metal is probably not quite as hot as the paint would indicate. The 500F paint down below the shoulder, on the other hand, is reacting directly to the temperature of the metal underneath it and changing state as the temperature line moves down the body.

As far as the consistency... you might try getting ahold of some of the thinner. It is used to rejuvenate dried up bottles and/or thin it out further. My bottle of 500F Tempilaq went on smooth and even like model paint, but the 800F stuff was more chalky - it wasn't dried out, but there were definitely more solids in the mix there.

FWIW... the stuff that just changes state (the 500F paint in this case) comes right off with lacquer thinner from the local hardware store. The stuff that was burnt (800F tempilaq) is pretty much charred on there and is a regular cast-iron beyotch to remove - basically scrubbing with some sort of abrasive, or just use a junk case and pitch it afterwards.

HTH,

Monte

 

[jrob300]

Re: Tempilaq and annealing

I am totally in unknown territory, but collecting data on this very subject as I have 300 rds. of Nosler brass that are starting to show uneven seating resistance, so I want to anneal them.

Two of the articles I read stated strongly to put the tempilaq INSIDE the neck. I wasn't sure from your posts. Did you put it inside or ouside and could this be the reason??

Just trying to learn before I do.

John

 

[IanB]

Re: Tempilaq and annealing

Monte, looks like I'm not alone then! I have used the 650F and 750F away from the heat source and it still went black. Both the 650 and 750 are watery and it would run down the case on it's own accord, the 475 is almost a paste and applies well, I have some thinners ready for when it becomes to thick.

Monte, would you say that your 500F is a high enough temperature to anneal your brass? Looks like I might have to stick with the 475 and perhaps use it half way down the case wall.

John, I haven't tried it inside the necks yet, but I might. I can't see it would make much difference though unless it was getting blasted in direct heat. The other thing that would concern me using it inside the necks is that it can be a real pain to remove, unless you can remove it quickly. When I use the 475 as soon as it liquidates I wipe it off with a damp cloth and it works a treat, if you leave it, it will harden and you then have to use something more abrasive to remove it.

 

[jrob300]

Re: Tempilaq and annealing

Point well taken. I haven't tried this yet, but I'm watching and learning.

John

 

[HOGGHEAD]

Re: Tempilaq and annealing

There are several different ways to skin the case annealing cat. I use a tip sold by "The Varmint Den". And I also use my bullet casting pots. That is the fastest way. Set the temp on your pot to 700 degrees(use a thermometer). Then you dip the brass up to the height that you want to anneal. You need to get the temp. between 650-660 degrees to do a proper annealing. With rifle brass I hold the very bottom with my fingers, when it gets too hot to hold then the annealing is done. If doing pistol brass I do a cadence and a pair of pliers to hold the brass. Lift the brass straight out and if done properly the lead will not stick to the case.

Some guys here have advocated Tempilaq, and it works. However I prefer to use the Temp-Stik. It works kind of like a magic marker, and is suppose to burn off at 650-660 degrees. Which is the proper temp to anneal perfectly. This is a fast and efficient way to anneal(dipping in lead pot), you just need a good cadence.

The best part about using a lead pot is that no matter what you do, your brass will not get above 700 degrees. Although that is a bit too high, it will not ruin your brass like the gas tips will. Tom.

 

[cornhusker]

I am using the blue liquid..I found if I apply it to the should and use a small flame it works great..750 degrees it is.I put the case in a
socket and spin it slowly..Your right it does turn black.But it will come right off with a piece of 4 ought steel wool..so far I think it is working great..You have to shake
up the stuff real good and all I use is a small dot of it..

 

[sigma2chi]

I thought you were supposed to put it inside the neck??? Never thought you had to "clean it out" afterwards either??? Am I wrong here??