Holy shit! How in the heck do you process a round that size? Better yet, how do you get a round that size out of the timber? Heavy lift helicopter? 660 or 880?Just found this thread.
Cutting firewood is more fun than shooting sometimes lol.
Was going to go out this week, woods are closed for fires now.
Lots of people getting evacuated around here.
Loading the truck with preperations in case we evac, I was like I wonder how many other people load a 660 first, before food and water lol.
Anyway here's a pic from a few weeks ago . View attachment 7420448
That old growth for is like gold around here
I have a 660 with a big bore kit, 98.5cc. Chop at it one swing at a time lol jk. Its dried so splits easy peazy. It was raining that day, but the log is still dry. And the pic was taken from the road, didn't have to rent the helicopter that day.Holy shit! How in the heck do you process a round that size? Better yet, how do you get a round that size out of the timber? Heavy lift helicopter? 660 or 880?
I think it is an issue with the new Huskies too.I prefer the Stihl ES bars with wide nose, 13-tooth sprocket. Unfortunately, Stihl doesn't think we can be trusted with such things anymore, and is only importing the narrow nose bars now. I run 20" bars on everything, except the 024 and 261 are 16", and the 660 has a 25". I'm cutting above 8000-ft elevation, and need all the HP advantage I can get. The new saws lack the torque of the older saws. My only new saws are the newly acquired 261, and a 362 I've had for a few years now. Even though they have improved the air box filtration, they have taken a step back in torque, and the nagging problem of fuel tank over-pressurization, where the saw suddenly stops, and you have to open the fuel cap to release the pressure to get it to start again. I understand this is a common problem with all new Stihls?
I’ve not experienced the latter problem. Nor have I heard of it. However, I’m at 850’ MSL. Wonder if it’s an altitude issue/problem. Good question to pose on arboristsite.comI think it is an issue with the new Huskies too.
was running a buddies recently and ran into trouble like that.
sure as hell didnt impress me.
Im due a new saw. My brother jacked my old one.
think I am going to look for an older Stihl.
i also run sthil bars, but i may get a lightweight for the 461 w a 32 incherNot sure who you're asking, but here's my .02. I'm still running all Stihl bars. That will change in the future for the bigger saws as I'm not getting any younger. For the 25" plus bars I believe I'll try a Sugi and see how I get along.
Three days now of lows in the 40’s and highs in the low 50’s and nonstop rain. Prior to this, we went 27 days without rain and the AC running nonstop . Iowa. House was down to 63 , but Miss Lori was chilly . Spent some time this afternoon to properly clean the stove, flue, and cap. Knocked the chill off tonight with splitter scraps.
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I’m at ~900’ and if I run wide open dogging into oak they snuff themselves out 3/4 way through the tank or so. Just crack the cap now and again. That’s Husky 550xp and Stihl 461, and 660. Everything is stock and I do abuse them a bit.I’ve not experienced the latter problem. Nor have I heard of it. However, I’m at 850’ MSL. Wonder if it’s an altitude issue/problem. Good question to pose on arboristsite.com
I hear it does offer a touch more power, but splitting hairs. I'm old school, have a tachometer, and tune my own saws, so I prefer carbs. The first generation of M-tronic saws had a bunch of problems.Would the stihl c-m m-tronic electronic carb thingamajig help with the torque power issues?
Interesting. Again, I’ve not had this problem, but, there’s a first time for everything. Never say never.I’m at ~900’ and if I run wide open dogging into oak they snuff themselves out 3/4 way through the tank or so. Just crack the cap now and again. That’s Husky 550xp and Stihl 461, and 660. Everything is stock and I do abuse them a bit.
That’s only when I’m bucking huge stacks of logs and don’t give them any chance to breathe.
Grab a stick (or make one) the length of your arm. Hold your arm out straight with said stick in your fist vertical. Back up eyeballing the top of the stick until it meets the top of the tree. That is where the tree will land (+/- a couple of feet). You basically just completed the third side of a right triangle. Geometry doesn’t lie. You will be typically long using this method because we don’t fell from the stump base, and fudge factor on the long side is a good thing.I need to get better at judging the height of trees. I have been cutting standing dead lodge pole pine. This morning I eyeballed a blow over on the edge of the stand that I am cutting. The tree didn't make it far when it blew over before hanging up in live trees. It couldn't have been more than a 15 degree lean. About eight feet up the tree was a little stub of an old branch. So, I figured I could tie around the tree above the branch, hook onto my truck, and pull the tree back and over. I carry a 100 foot piece of 5/8 static kernmantle rope just for pulling on trees. The rope was neatly coiled in a rope bag, but I had a 25' long 3/8" log chain, and two 30 foot heavy duty tow straps in the bed of the truck. The tree was only 26 inches a foot above ground level, and I am tied on eight feet high. There is no way in hell this tree is anywhere near 90 feet tall.
I hooked everything up and put the truck in four wheel drive low and started backing up taking all of the tension out of the line, then I gassed it just a bit. Just as planned, the tree went to vertical, then started falling in a perfect line, so I tugged a little bit more. As the tree started falling, I remember saying to myself, "Oh fuck, oh fuck..." .
The tree crashed down raining small branches all over my pick up truck. The very top of the tree was about 18 inches from my front bumper. Upon further examination, the bottom of the tree was about 8-10 feet from where it was originally uprooted. Now I know why one shouldn't go yanking on trees with elastic straps/ropes.
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