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Threading Tikka Superlite 300wm

AK4900PA

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
May 25, 2013
492
354
I'm looking to have my T3x Superlite in 300wm cut down to 22" and threaded so I can use my Griffin Paladin on it. Any advantages one way or the other between threading 9/16"-24 vs having a stepped shoulder machined like this to allow for 5/8"-24 threading?
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If I go 9/16"-24 I'm limited to the steel flash hider where as if I go 5/8"-24 I can get the titanium brake.
 
It has to mount my suppressor so there's only so many options. The only real option for 9/16"-24 is the steel flash hider. 5/8"-24 does offer some more options. I'd go with the ti muzzle break. I'm sure the one ounce savings with the ti brake would be offset by the added material to create the shoulder so that doesn't really matter. Do the 5/8"-24 threads with machined shoulder offer an advantage in regards to accuracy and/or durability?
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I had a Tikka T3x, 22-250 cut down to 20”. It sucked. Barrel is too thin for suppressor.

For me the smith said there wouldn’t have been enough shoulder for 5/8, had to go 1/2x28.

Save the money and buy a prefit. I understand it may require a new stock, but you’ll be much happier in the end.
 
I had a Tikka T3x, 22-250 cut down to 20”. It sucked. Barrel is too thin for suppressor.

For me the smith said there wouldn’t have been enough shoulder for 5/8, had to go 1/2x28.

Save the money and buy a prefit. I understand it may require a new stock, but you’ll be much happier in the end.
That is an option I'm considering. What exactly was your issue with the factory barrel?
 
There’s some discussion here on threading Tikka T3s; maybe it will help.


 
If you are sticking with the factory super lite contour and cutting it down I don’t see how/why a step up shoulder is possible?
Obviously the 5/8 would be the stronger choice.
Sticking with the factory super lite barrel though I think the 9/16 is your only option. You can’t step a shoulder up to where the material doesn’t exist for you to do so in the first place.
 
That is an option I'm considering. What exactly was your issue with the factory barrel?
Too thin. Then hanging a suppressor off the end. With the factory stock the balance was all off and never felt right. You won’t like it. If it’s all you can afford, I understand but otherwise save your smith fees and get a prefit carbon (if wanting to stay light).
 
If you are sticking with the factory super lite contour and cutting it down I don’t see how/why a step up shoulder is possible?
Obviously the 5/8 would be the stronger choice.
Sticking with the factory super lite barrel though I think the 9/16 is your only option. You can’t step a shoulder up to where the material doesn’t exist for you to do so in the first place.
 
The super lite is somewhere around .640 where the flutes terminate. This makes even the 9/16-24 a little sketch.

Another vote for a prefit.
 
The Tikka sporter barrel is too thin to thread 5/8x24 and have a shoulder, even down to 17”.
I have 2…a .223 cut to 17” threaded 1/2x28 and a 6.5CM cut to 18” threaded 1/2x28 and use an adapter to get to 5/8x24.
Dont know that I’d be comfortable with a .30 bore threaded 1/2x28.
 
Slightly different than you since I have a tbac ultra 7. I sent my t3x lite to Thunderbeast to have them mount one of their face mount brakes. Uses the face of the muzzle as the shoulder. Threaded 9/16 underneath.
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I just bought a SilencerCo hybrid 46m with their BOGO deal and will be getting an omega 30 as the freebie. I’ve had the tikka for a few years and would like to keep it and make something work. Just seeing what options are out there. I really like that TBAC muzzle indexing solution with the brake.