Just Purchased a TIKKA T3 Scout CTR Rifle in a 20inch .308 Cal which came with a Factory 0 MOA Scope Base. My question is, can I shoot out to 1,000 Yards with this Base with a Bushnell HDMR 3.5-21x50mm G2TMR Reticle Scope on Seekins Low Rings??? The scope bell in it's current setup is about 2-3mm off of the Barrel. So it's pretty much the perfect height to bore setup. Is this enough to reach out to 1,000 or should I get the 20 MOA Base for it? What do you guys think?
Rifle Scopes TIKKA SCOUT 0 MOA BASE & BUSHNELL HDMR RANGE???
- Thread starter HOGTOOTH5R
- Start date
Re: TIKKA SCOUT 0 MOA BASE & BUSHNELL HDMR RANGE???
The scope gives you 26Mil TOTAL internal adjustment however you will almost surely not have all of that avalible once it is zeroed. Depending on what you are shooting I would say you will probably need 10-15 Mil of travel availble to shoot at 1000 yards without any holdover. You hopefully should be able to get that out of your scope without a 20MOA base. The only way to know for sure is to mount it up zero it and then see how much elevation you have left then see if that much elevation will compensate for the drop of your chosen round.
The scope gives you 26Mil TOTAL internal adjustment however you will almost surely not have all of that avalible once it is zeroed. Depending on what you are shooting I would say you will probably need 10-15 Mil of travel availble to shoot at 1000 yards without any holdover. You hopefully should be able to get that out of your scope without a 20MOA base. The only way to know for sure is to mount it up zero it and then see how much elevation you have left then see if that much elevation will compensate for the drop of your chosen round.
Re: TIKKA SCOUT 0 MOA BASE & BUSHNELL HDMR RANGE???
Thanks you guys for the Info. Well to be honest I've already got the EGW 20 MOA HD Base for the Rifle. But when I'm trying to take off the Factory Base it was on SO TIGHT that the Screws were getting Stripped. So now I can't take it off without going to a Gunsmith. I can't believe how tight the Stock Screws was on the Factory Base!!! It literally broke one of my Flat Heat Screw Driver Bits!!! I'm Debating to take to a smith to get it off and put the new one on, or just leave it for now. I hope it won't be too expensive to get this done with a Gunsmith. This is really a stupid problem to have...=(
Thanks you guys for the Info. Well to be honest I've already got the EGW 20 MOA HD Base for the Rifle. But when I'm trying to take off the Factory Base it was on SO TIGHT that the Screws were getting Stripped. So now I can't take it off without going to a Gunsmith. I can't believe how tight the Stock Screws was on the Factory Base!!! It literally broke one of my Flat Heat Screw Driver Bits!!! I'm Debating to take to a smith to get it off and put the new one on, or just leave it for now. I hope it won't be too expensive to get this done with a Gunsmith. This is really a stupid problem to have...=(
Re: TIKKA SCOUT 0 MOA BASE & BUSHNELL HDMR RANGE???
I've never tried to drill out a stripped head screw before on anything. It's a bit hard to bring myself to try this method for the first time on a Brand New Gun...
I've never tried to drill out a stripped head screw before on anything. It's a bit hard to bring myself to try this method for the first time on a Brand New Gun...
Re: TIKKA SCOUT 0 MOA BASE & BUSHNELL HDMR RANGE???
Get a 20 MOA base...this will free up a lot of elevation you would rather use up when shooting at 1000.
My set-up is 700P in .308, HDMR, Seekins low rings, 20 MOA base. Shoot comps and out to 1000 routinely.
Get a 20 MOA base...this will free up a lot of elevation you would rather use up when shooting at 1000.
My set-up is 700P in .308, HDMR, Seekins low rings, 20 MOA base. Shoot comps and out to 1000 routinely.
Re: TIKKA SCOUT 0 MOA BASE & BUSHNELL HDMR RANGE???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HOGTOOTH5R</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks you guys for the Info. Well to be honest I've already got the EGW 20 MOA HD Base for the Rifle. But when I'm trying to take off the Factory Base it was on SO TIGHT that the Screws were getting Stripped. So now I can't take it off without going to a Gunsmith. I can't believe how tight the Stock Screws was on the Factory Base!!! It literally broke one of my Flat Heat Screw Driver Bits!!! I'm Debating to take to a smith to get it off and put the new one on, or just leave it for now. I hope it won't be too expensive to get this done with a Gunsmith. This is really a stupid problem to have...=( </div></div>
That sucks.
FWIW a 200 yard zero with a decent 175smk load would hit 1k right around the 10mil holdover mark. Or, you could dial 5mils (for 600) and then hold another 5-6 to hit 1k. 20MOA base isn't necessary unless you want to dial everything and even then...you'd probably squeak by with the scope's internal adjustment.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HOGTOOTH5R</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks you guys for the Info. Well to be honest I've already got the EGW 20 MOA HD Base for the Rifle. But when I'm trying to take off the Factory Base it was on SO TIGHT that the Screws were getting Stripped. So now I can't take it off without going to a Gunsmith. I can't believe how tight the Stock Screws was on the Factory Base!!! It literally broke one of my Flat Heat Screw Driver Bits!!! I'm Debating to take to a smith to get it off and put the new one on, or just leave it for now. I hope it won't be too expensive to get this done with a Gunsmith. This is really a stupid problem to have...=( </div></div>
That sucks.
FWIW a 200 yard zero with a decent 175smk load would hit 1k right around the 10mil holdover mark. Or, you could dial 5mils (for 600) and then hold another 5-6 to hit 1k. 20MOA base isn't necessary unless you want to dial everything and even then...you'd probably squeak by with the scope's internal adjustment.
Re: TIKKA SCOUT 0 MOA BASE & BUSHNELL HDMR RANGE???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrob300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Screws on stock Tikka bases are Loctited now. Require a soldering iron, butane or propane torch.
John </div></div>
Think they use that green super duper loctite. Dont want their shit comming loose!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrob300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Screws on stock Tikka bases are Loctited now. Require a soldering iron, butane or propane torch.
John </div></div>
Think they use that green super duper loctite. Dont want their shit comming loose!
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