Area 419 Hellfire or any of the APA Bastards. Two of the best for your buck.
My third 6.5 coming in, at long last. This one in the caliber that’s 120 years later than its sibling the x55 Swede - the Creedmoor.
I used to own a T3 Varmint 6.5x55 in a GRS Berserk stock but got rid of it because it was too heavy for my hunting. It shot amazingly well and I did very well in the informal competitions I shot. I then owned a Blaser R8 in the same caliber for a while. Amazing rifle but it’s like gold - it never loses any value but in the safe it doesn’t do any good.
So I will now be putting my trusty K624i on a T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. Very much looking forward to this medium heavy shooting and hunting rifle. It will be interesting to see if I can get the same kind of performance out of this slightly shorter case with the same bullets.
I used to own a T3 Varmint 6.5x55 in a GRS Berserk stock but got rid of it because it was too heavy for my hunting. It shot amazingly well and I did very well in the informal competitions I shot. I then owned a Blaser R8 in the same caliber for a while. Amazing rifle but it’s like gold - it never loses any value but in the safe it doesn’t do any good.
So I will now be putting my trusty K624i on a T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. Very much looking forward to this medium heavy shooting and hunting rifle. It will be interesting to see if I can get the same kind of performance out of this slightly shorter case with the same bullets.
My CTR is now a 6mm Creedmoor and i like it a lot. The muzzle blast is not so concussive to the shooter and i stay on target pretty well.
Mine is a 6.5 Creedmoor so I would assume the 2 rounds are relatively close in terms of muzzle blast etc?
Thankyou - helpful.
So the TAC (not the TACA1), gets the 2stage trigger and adjustable polymer stock.
And the super varmint is a varmint with the adjustable stock. It looks like both varmints have the option of a threaded barrell
And there’s also the UPS. Which by the look of it is a CTR but with a carbon reinforced fibreglass adjustable stock and a 20moa rail, and either a single or set trigger.
So it’s basically the exact same action on all, but with the variables being barrel weight and length, trigger type, stock variations, magazine type.
Yes. In Europe you have more options than we have here in the USA.
Awhile ago I tried to put this buying guide together. Not perfect but pretty good. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418
There's a little difference in perceivable recoil, but not blast from my experience. I shoot 109 gr bullets. Stick with the 130 grains and you'll have less recoil than the 140's. Either way it's not too bad.
I went from .260 to 6mm for less recoil but it was only a slight gain. The brake helped.
I attached a small pic rail to the stud. Then mounted an Atlas bipod to it.
I have used Harris bipods for 25+ years. I have a few different models but I like the 9-13 best for my shooting. Just picked up a new one with the notched legs and it does what I need it to do. Worked fine on the original stock with just the stud attachment.
Once my CTR 6.5 barrel is shot out I plan to switch to 6mm CM
Planning on mounting an Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30x56 on the stock rail of my CTR. Trying to determine ring height but I can't figure out how to account for the barrel contour. Anyone running this scope or similar (34mm tube 56mm objective) on the stock CTR rail and if so what rings are you using?
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I'm currently running a P4Xi 4-16x56mm in 34mm ARC M10 low rings [0.94"] on my stock CTR.
You'd be lucky to find lens caps that would fit without making barrel contact, but there is space, none the less.
Thanks for the insight. Do you know about how much clearance I'd need for the caps? Based on the rough numbers I came up with 1.1 inch rings to fit the scope and caps?
Yep. That would be the ticket. Or even higher if you plan on changing to a stouter profile barrel down the road. The downside being that you'll want to build up some sort of good cheek weld to match your optic hight. Even with the these low rings, I'm using coozy foam to build slightly higher than the stock cheek weld.
No intentions on going up in profile. At the round count required to eat the barrel it will probably live it's entire life on the stock barrel. I've already acquired a few rifles so far, I'm sure others will follow! I really do appreciate that long term advice however.
Thanks to all the comments in this thread! Got my first Tikka, a T3X CTR in 6.5CM with 24" barrel. Going to be my 1st chassis rifle
The more I look at this the more I like.
.So to confirm, thats a Bravo rear end and a Whisky Polymer forend?
What would that setup weigh (minus the action) - compared to Whiskey (3.8lbs) and for the Xray (3lbs) ..?
That’s my same starting point.
FYI, if you’re planning on installing a KRG Midas trigger in the OEM CTR stock, you’ll have to clearance the bottom metal for it to fit. it’s not a big job, easy to do with a dremel and or a few small hand files. DAMHIK.
With a KRG Bravo or an MDT ACC it’s a drop-in.
Yep, it has Bravo rear end and Whiskey forend.
I have not scaled it, i could do it one day.
I have also Bravo stock that has original Bravo forend.
Pretend I'm the noob that I am, this is going into an MDT ACC. Worth the upgrade for the trigger?
For reference, in rifles I have a Larue MBT 2 stage trigger in an AR15 and Ruger precision rimfire's factory trigger. Both are different, but sensitive. How's the T3X CTR out of the box? Thanks
The KRG Midas is a pretty nice two stage trigger with good adjustability. The pull weight won’t adjust super-super low (I don’t have a trigger pull scale ) to benchrest standards. it will get below both the MBT ( I have several ARs with that trigger ) and the adjusted Ruger Precision Rimfire trigger ( My daughter has one that I have tweaked slightly ).
Factory single stage trigger can be adjusted pretty light with the OEM springs and a lighter spring is easier to find If you want to go that route.
ETA: The trigger shoe on the Midas is movable on a dovetail so you can adjust the trigger reach, and that helps during the setup of the rifle.
if you can wait until Black Friday, MDT does a pretty substantial discount, enough to pay for the Midas Trigger or a bunch of AICS pattern magazines. You’ll want the “Non-Binder Plate” mags when the time comes.
Factory single stage trigger can be adjusted pretty light with the OEM springs and a lighter spring is easier to find If you want to go that route.
ETA: The trigger shoe on the Midas is movable on a dovetail so you can adjust the trigger reach, and that helps during the setup of the rifle.
if you can wait until Black Friday, MDT does a pretty substantial discount, enough to pay for the Midas Trigger or a bunch of AICS pattern magazines. You’ll want the “Non-Binder Plate” mags when the time comes.
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Thanks! Will probably start factory then see how it feels, but good to have something on list as a replacement
What color was the chassis originally?
I realise I'm drilling you with questions here - but is the whiskey forend swap a simple one? I see a bolt on the front of the Bravo buttstock, above the trigger - in front of the bolt recess - did you have to drill that out to make the whiskey forend fit?
Ghille Brake | Tierney Arms Company
The Tierney Arms Company Ghille Muzzle Brake was designed using the latest state of the art C.A.D. software along with real world testing to ensure maximum recoil reduction. It features high efficiency variable geometry porting that is biased to rear and slightly up, minimizing felt recoil and...
www.precisionrifleparts.org Check this one out. A couple of local guys run these and the recoil reduction and lack of blast at the shooter are impressive. One guy used to run one of the APA bastard brakes and he noticed a difference right away.
The Whiskey 3 forend and back ends should just screw right into a Bravo and vie versa. They share the same backbone. W3 forend is nicer for shooting off surfaces due to the width. Bravo is narrower, but more comfortable to hold (for my stumpy fingers anyway). That screw/bolt on his rifle looks like a personal mod.
Just got my rifle back from the gunsmith. Man these Bartlein Carbon barrels are sexy. Shooting next week and can't wait to see the results.
These guys used to sell just the spring but discontinued it.
Now they sell the kits....
Tikka T3, & T3X Bolt Spare Parts Kit
Check out the deal on Tikka T3, & T3X Bolt Spare Parts Kit at MGW
I lost one, so I made one out of some spare springs from AR parts kits. Still have it in my CTR bolt.
Sako green.
Just got word today from Euro Optic- my 20” SS 1:8 .223 CTR is on the way! Should have it in my safe early next week.
I think Sako/Tikka/Beretta only offers it in this kit. Its worth it to buy the kit and just replace everything every so often. I did this to my Tikka last year after probably 4,000 rounds.These guys used to sell just the spring but discontinued it.
Now they sell the kits....
Tikka T3, & T3X Bolt Spare Parts Kit
Check out the deal on Tikka T3, & T3X Bolt Spare Parts Kit at MGWwww.midwestgunworks.com
The barrel on my T3 .223 Rem was installed by King Kong. I used Kroil, heat, a 2 foot cheater pipe and a 3 lbs dead blow hammer finally knocked it loose
.
Very, very nice.. What is each one and how do you use them? Crazy levels of envy here...
Left CTR 223rem with Bravo.
Midle CTR 260rem with Whiskey, these 2 are factory barrels.
Right T3X with Krieger SS barrel 6.5 creedmoor and it´s on a Whiskey chassis.
Audere mounts, Vortex scopes.
All barrels are fluted by Ensio Firearms, that is a 2 man owned gun smith company here in Finland.
Ensio Firearms – Precision rifles from Finland
ensiofirearms.com Jaki Titanium series suppressors.
Coletac covers, that small black one is having jacket too
Its strange how some like yours are so tight. I wonder why the difference? All the tikkas that I have rebarelled took a whack with the palm of my hand on the action wrench. No heat. No oil. No cheater. My sako TRGs were just as simple.
