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Tikka T3 Thread

A bolt stop (release) would not cause that issue as it has nothing to do with the firing sequence. . Completely unrelated. Not closing the bolt all the way down against the action when chambering a round, or a dirty firing pin could cause it. The pin needs to be free of grease and oil. Check that.
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Disassembled the bolt and cleaned the firing pin. Still no go. T3 action has a Timney 2 stage on it. Could it be related to that? Definitely clicks when the trigger is pulled.

Again, barreled action was functioning perfectly before I moved it.

I wasn't smart enough to take the bolt from my . 308 Tac A1 to try in this 6.5 barreled action, I'll try that next. Other ideas?
 
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I have a Tikka in 7RM where I installed and AtlasWorx AICS long action DBM in a bell and carlson stock. Perfect function with AICS pattern long action mags.

Polymer Mags like Magpul are fully functional in my experience as well but they are a very tight fit when inserting and do not drop free without modification. They have fed 100% though once inserted though.

I know that may not be anything you're interested in but just wanted to throw it out there as an option if you're getting frustrated.

I was going to look into that, but I returned my rifle to OMR and had him remove his barrel/brake and bottom metal and got a refund. I'm starting all over and dropping my rifle off at Hells Canyon Armory today.
I just can't support someone who calls his customer and proceeded to call him an Asshole, and a fucking dickhead for being upset he wouldn't do as his customer asked, getting a rifle back that doesn't function due to parts installed wrong. Damaged parts ect........ Moving on
 
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Disassembled the bolt and cleaned the firing pin. Still no go. T3 action has a Timney 2 stage on it. Could it be related to that? Definitely clicks when the trigger is pulled.

Again, barreled action was functioning perfectly before I moved it.

I wasn't smart enough to take the bolt from my . 308 Tac A1 to try in this 6.5 barreled action, I'll try that next. Other ideas?
What does the primer look like after the misfire? Light strike or no strike? Make sure thr firing pin looks correct and it isnt broken at the tip for some reason (unlikely)
 
What does the primer look like after the misfire? Light strike or no strike? Make sure thr firing pin looks correct and it isnt broken at the tip for some reason (unlikely)

Light strike.

I'll try my other bolt to see if it works and then compare firing pins. Didn't look damaged, but I'm not a pro.
 
T3 30-06
VX5-HD 3-15x44
MPA Altitude stock
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Another thing you could try is adjusting your trigger pull slightly heavier. I am not 100% sure this would help but worth trying.

It is at the pull weight it was delivered at, and functioned perfectly at for a solid 3 years at while in my Mcrees chassis, but, will investigate as well. Thanks.
 
Don’t know yet. I haven’t borescoped it. I read some reviews that they had oversized bores sometimes. This one does not. Standard size reamer pilot does not fit. Had to go a size down. It machined well. Turned the shank from 1.220 to 1.130 for the Tikka. Everything so far has been good. Can’t wait to shoot it.
 
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Anyone have the firing pin diameter of a newish ctr, or really any tikka 6.5cm? Trying to decide on small or large primer brass
 
How are those x-caliber barrels? I've thought about picking one up when they run their sales.
I have a .223 Rem barrel on order from the Memorial Day Sale. They quoted 8 to 10 weeks lead time at that point.
Tomorrow will be 8 weeks since i ordered it, so it should be shipping fairly soon - hopefully...
 
Nice stock. Is the comb high enough for comfortable use with the scope? And do you know the weight of that setup?

The comb is higher than factory. It works well for my face and position, although another quarter inch would make it perfect. I may switch to a different scope mount to bring it down.

The total weight as pictured, minus bipod, is 7lbs 15oz.
 
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I am nearing the completion of my first bolt gun build based on a 20" Tikka CTR in 6.5 CM. The rifle is used for 50% range and 50% hunting so I have tried to keep the weight down, with the understanding that I will have to make some sacrifices to get the stability and features I want. Some of the sacrifices have been added weight with the KRG Bravo (barely) and a big optic (Athlon Ares ETR). Rifle currently sits at around 12.5 pounds loaded with 5 rounds, which will be 13.5 pounds when the SICO Omega is free.

I would like to compensate for some of the added weight by putting on a new carbon fiber barrel or a shorter fluted steel barrel. I'm thinking 18" regardless although could keep it at 20" if the CF options are light enough.

Any advice on prefits people have used for their CTR's to cut some weight? Anyone flute their stock CTR barrel?

Just a newb with this and would like any guidance possible.
 
Here's where I'd lug a 13.5 lb hunting rig to. Taken from the mule, about 30 yards away.
 

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I am nearing the completion of my first bolt gun build based on a 20" Tikka CTR in 6.5 CM. The rifle is used for 50% range and 50% hunting so I have tried to keep the weight down, with the understanding that I will have to make some sacrifices to get the stability and features I want. Some of the sacrifices have been added weight with the KRG Bravo (barely) and a big optic (Athlon Ares ETR). Rifle currently sits at around 12.5 pounds loaded with 5 rounds, which will be 13.5 pounds when the SICO Omega is free.

I would like to compensate for some of the added weight by putting on a new carbon fiber barrel or a shorter fluted steel barrel. I'm thinking 18" regardless although could keep it at 20" if the CF options are light enough.

Any advice on prefits people have used for their CTR's to cut some weight? Anyone flute their stock CTR barrel?

Just a newb with this and would like any guidance possible.

I think a lot of the apeal of tikka, particularly a ctr or varmit is the barrel. Why go and monkey with that before you know it doesnt work? For the cost of a carbon fiber barrel you can probably get into a used t3x lite if you needed it, and then have dedicated rigs. I say dont sweat it.

CF barrels dont handle heat as well from what I have read, over continuous strings of fire. For a target gun, the ctr is already really great blend of heavy enough to get decent strings in, without being too much of a boat anchor.

It also totally depends on your style of hunting. If you're hunting from a deer blind, the weight wont matter. And if you're hiking it through the mountains, you will want a light gun and light scope.

I'd also go out and see how you shoot off hand with it. You may be suprized at how stable a "heavy", well balanced bolt gun can be.

Edit: just to add to this. The CTR has two good things going for it, over a base tikka. The heavier threaded barrel, and the mag system. Why go throw it into a bravo, regating the dbm, and then replace the barrel? Do you have the ctr stock and mag still? Around here you will never shoot far enough to need a reticle in your scope for hunting, so if you do, you could get a cheapo used t3 lite in whatever caliber, say 400 or 500, and a decent low power hunting scope, drop it Into the ctr stock.
 
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Anyone have the firing pin diameter of a newish ctr, or really any tikka 6.5cm? Trying to decide on small or large primer brass

Unless you're sitting on a shitload of small primers already, you should go large...
 
I think a lot of the apeal of tikka, particularly a ctr or varmit is the barrel. Why go and monkey with that before you know it doesnt work? For the cost of a carbon fiber barrel you can probably get into a used t3x lite if you needed it, and then have dedicated rigs. I say dont sweat it.

CF barrels dont handle heat as well from what I have read, over continuous strings of fire. For a target gun, the ctr is already really great blend of heavy enough to get decent strings in, without being too much of a boat anchor.

It also totally depends on your style of hunting. If you're hunting from a deer blind, the weight wont matter. And if you're hiking it through the mountains, you will want a light gun and light scope.

I'd also go out and see how you shoot off hand with it. You may be suprized at how stable a "heavy", well balanced bolt gun can be.

Edit: just to add to this. The CTR has two good things going for it, over a base tikka. The heavier threaded barrel, and the mag system. Why go throw it into a bravo, regating the dbm, and then replace the barrel? Do you have the ctr stock and mag still? Around here you will never shoot far enough to need a reticle in your scope for hunting, so if you do, you could get a cheapo used t3 lite in whatever caliber, say 400 or 500, and a decent low power hunting scope, drop it Into the ctr stock.

I’ve been using the gun for about 6 months now and slowly upgrading as I go and figure out what I want/need. I still have the CTR stock and bottom metal, but I used the CTR mag in the bravo as I went with the CTR version. The bravo allowed me to ditch my hog saddle which overall, brought my total pack weight down slightly. I’m also happy with the feel and modularity.

My hunting involves a good bit of walking but nothing like Rocky Mountain hunting. The Appalachians aren’t that big lol.

I agree that the CTR barrel itself isn’t overly heavy and I maybe robbing Peter to pay Paul if I go with a CF barrel. It shoots consistently .5-.75 MOA with cheap soft point hunting ammo. I’m very pleased with it. Just looking to save some weight that I’ve added with the bigger optic and trim some length down when I can get ahold of my suppressor.

With all that said, maybe I would be better suited chopping the CTR barrel down to 17-18”, re thread and call it a day. I only have about 500 rounds through it so far. It has a lot of life left
 
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Question: If I don't want to jack with taking off the zero MOA rail on a CTR, are there any negatives to mounting a scope that has enough vertical travel to get out to 1200 yds? I'm looking to pick up an Athlon ETR that has 32 mils of elevation travel. Rifle is 6.5 cm.

I was able to get to 1200 witha Burris XTRII 4-20 when I was using the 0MOA rail on my 20" 260 CTR. That being said, the rail came off easy with a heat gun. If I wasn't shooting past 1200, the factory rail is plenty.
 
I was able to get to 1200 witha Burris XTRII 4-20 when I was using the 0MOA rail on my 20" 260 CTR. That being said, the rail came off easy with a heat gun. If I wasn't shooting past 1200, the factory rail is plenty.
Thanks for the reply. Now I'll try to find the appropriate scope rings for a 56mm objective.
 
Who’s a good prefit maker with wrench flats?

bought a used t3 223 varmint in a t4a from mile high 6 months ago and just got the transfer done and the bores all pitted.

got tags I need to fill mid September so 8-12 weeks won’t work.

btw what’s one contour smaller then a tikka varmint? It’s .9 at the muzzle at 20”

don’t want a nut system.
 
Who’s a good prefit maker with wrench flats?

bought a used t3 223 varmint in a t4a from mile high 6 months ago and just got the transfer done and the bores all pitted.

got tags I need to fill mid September so 8-12 weeks won’t work.

btw what’s one contour smaller then a tikka varmint? It’s .9 at the muzzle at 20”

don’t want a nut system.

Have you tried contacting the seller? If the bore is fucked to hell from them, they should fix it.
 
Thanks for the reply. Now I'll try to find the appropriate scope rings for a 56mm objective.

 
Who’s a good prefit maker with wrench flats?

bought a used t3 223 varmint in a t4a from mile high 6 months ago and just got the transfer done and the bores all pitted.

got tags I need to fill mid September so 8-12 weeks won’t work.

btw what’s one contour smaller then a tikka varmint? It’s .9 at the muzzle at 20”

don’t want a nut system.

I would shoot it first and see how it does. My varmint shoots 65gr SGKs and 75gr ELDMs great. I haven't run the Teslong down the barrel, but I am sure I won't like what I see. When I clean it I don't take all the copper out, just concentrate on the carbon fouling.

Preferred Barrels has an option for flats, but any decent smith should be able to add them for a minimal charge.
 
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Just purchased my second Tikka Superlite in Stainless should arrive soon, got a great deal @basspro it was 529 and I had some club points I put to good use, ended up paying 300 bucks.

That’s a smoking deal. Looks like they’re all out of stock when I look online. Phenomenal!
 
Got the 223 AI finished. Decided to just use brass instead of a gauge. I was worried that -.004 wouldn’t be enough. I’ve seen that much of more variation in new brass and loaded ammo. Ended up about .005-.010 crush on all the brass and ammo I tried. Shoots nice with no cases coming apart.

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I am interested to see what velocity you get with the 20". I am considering having my varmint barrel set back, cut to 18-20", and re-chambered to 223AI. I have gotten the 75gr ELDM up to 3025fps with H4895 out of it so far. Looking to make it a handier calling rifle.
 
The x-caliber barrel is not as smooth inside as the typical bartlein and is showing a bit of copper fouling after the 10-15 shots so far in the backyard. I don’t think I will buy another. It was too good to pass up in the PX though.
 
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The x-caliber barrel is not as smooth inside as the typical bartlein and is showing a bit of copper fouling after the 10-15 shots so far in the backyard. I don’t think I will buy another. It was too good to pass up in the PX though.

I have a Bartlein 1-7 heavy palma in my safe for my varmint. Going to have it chambered for straight 223 so I can use it in matches that require 223. Haven't decided on a chamber yet. Hoping to shoot a team match at Spearpoint August 1st with my son. We took 1st last year in the bolt action class with both of us shooting Tikkas.
 
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Just got the tikka dropped in a KRG bravo. I'm excited to see how it shoots now. I really like the feel of the bravo so far - that said i haven't put any rounds through it with the bravo on yet, hopefully soon.
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Thinking of a PRS-Hunting crossover build. Tikka 243 in an XRS chassis.
The alternative is a Lithgow LA102 but there aren't any hybrid style chassis systems available for them that I know of... and I don't want to go for a heavier setup like the ESS for use hunting.
Can anyone shed full light on the differences between the CTR, TAC and Varmint models?
 
Very nice. But what is that "butt plate tool"?
 
Thinking of a PRS-Hunting crossover build. Tikka 243 in an XRS chassis.
The alternative is a Lithgow LA102 but there aren't any hybrid style chassis systems available for them that I know of... and I don't want to go for a heavier setup like the ESS for use hunting.
Can anyone shed full light on the differences between the CTR, TAC and Varmint models?

Currently,
CTR = Compact Tactical Rifle - 20" or 24" threaded Barrel, single stage trigger, Synthetic stock, detachable steel 10 Round box magazine similar in size to an AICS Pattern Mag, Picatinny Rail Scope mount.
TACA1 = CTR Barreled action with 2 Stage Trigger and Muzzle brake, Adjustable Aluminum & polymer stock with free float handguard, Uses same box mags as the CTR
Varmint = 20" or 24" Non -threaded Barrel, single stage trigger, Synthetic stock, unique detachable 5 Round box magazine

If you're going to put the barrels action in a chassis, and don't need the threaded barrel, the Varmint will generally be the least expensive way to get there
 
Currently,
CTR = Compact Tactical Rifle - 20" or 24" threaded Barrel, single stage trigger, Synthetic stock, detachable steel 10 Round box magazine similar in size to an AICS Pattern Mag, Picatinny Rail Scope mount.
TACA1 = CTR Barreled action with 2 Stage Trigger and Muzzle brake, Adjustable Aluminum & polymer stock with free float handguard, Uses same box mags as the CTR
Varmint = 20" or 24" Non -threaded Barrel, single stage trigger, Synthetic stock, unique detachable 5 Round box magazine

If you're going to put the barrels action in a chassis, and don't need the threaded barrel, the Varmint will generally be the least expensive way to get there
Also, the Varmint barrel profile will be ever so slightly thicker than the CTR/TACA1 profile.
Cheers