Tikka T3 Thread

PBWalsh

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Doubt it, I don't know of any inletted for a Tikka. I'm sure it's doable with enough work. I sure like mine but there's plenty of other options for a Tikka that won't require any effort to use.
Yeah thats what I thought. Just wanted to ask anyways. If I go T3, I’ll probably just throw it in a Bravo and call it good.
 

stello1001

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Yeah thats what I thought. Just wanted to ask anyways. If I go T3, I’ll probably just throw it in a Bravo and call it good.
I'm pretty sure I saw a KMW stock housing a non r700 footprint action a while back. The owner mentioned it took some work to get it to work. Although I am not 100% on which action the stock was housing, I wanna say it was a T3.
 
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cannoncrossfire

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Hi, I would dremel the bolt stop pin flush with the action before I dremeled the chassis. The chassis costs hundreds vs the bolt stop pin costing maybe a few bucks. If you do find out that the pin wasn’t in or it was too long you wont have a hole in your chassis for your new/ installed correctly pin to fall into.
And if you dremel the pin flush theres nothing to grab onto to remove it... common solution is a small relief in the chassis/stock.
 
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IronOperator87

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And if you dremel the pin flush theres nothing to grab onto to remove it... common solution is a small relief in the chassis/stock.
Ok let me rephrase that... cut the bolt stop pin flush with the radius of the action, not the flat spot on the action. Edit: I see what you are saying about the pin being cut short and not much to grab on to due to the pin being close to the edge of the action.
 
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awpk03s

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Made a little update on my Tac A1 6.5CM this weekend. Previously I had a small pic rail mounted on the handguard, and my bipod mounted to that. On more than one occasion, I wished I had the ability to move the bipod closer in to be able to better position for up/down angles.

On went a 12” Area 419 Arcalock rail, and one of their clamps for my bipod. I really dig the ability to quickly adjust bipod position now! Mount up and locking seems darn solid to me.
I also picked up one of the Area 419 rail mounted pint size Game Changer bags (aka Railchanger). The rail changer bag is nice, it’s easy to mount and dismount, and provides a hell of a stable shooting platform. It’s damn heavy though. It will be useful for situational and positional shooting I think.

5D2C6510-C1DC-4E80-91DC-CDA266044774.jpeg
 

CaptNemo

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Made a little update on my Tac A1 6.5CM this weekend. Previously I had a small pic rail mounted on the handguard, and my bipod mounted to that. On more than one occasion, I wished I had the ability to move the bipod closer in to be able to better position for up/down angles.

On went a 12” Area 419 Arcalock rail, and one of their clamps for my bipod. I really dig the ability to quickly adjust bipod position now! Mount up and locking seems darn solid to me.
I also picked up one of the Area 419 rail mounted pint size Game Changer bags (aka Railchanger). The rail changer bag is nice, it’s easy to mount and dismount, and provides a hell of a stable shooting platform. It’s damn heavy though. It will be useful for situational and positional shooting I think.

View attachment 7362195
I hate be the bearer of bad news, but Tikka installed the bolt handle on the wrong side of the rifle....

JK, It's a really nice set up !!
 
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awpk03s

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I hate be the bearer of bad news, but Tikka installed the bolt handle on the wrong side of the rifle....

JK, It's a really nice set up !!
Haha, I know right? I’m sure glad they did. Was hard to find at the time, like a year and a half ago!
 

Raffy

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Anybody hear anything new on the Tikka T3x 6.5 PRC being chambered by tikka since Shot Show 2020? Pre Covid it was supposed to be around June, but wondering if I just haven't seen the any in the wild, or if their guess on release was crushed by the mighty Corona. Anything?
 

Mojo_Hand_052

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Patriot Valley Arms is now offering 6mm ARC prefits for the Tikka T3x, but I am unsure how this would actually work in my .308 Tikka CTR were I to purchase this barrel.

I plan on switching over to 6mm for PRS at some point an I plan on utilizing my Tikka action for the interim, but I am having trouble finding information online about compatibility. Would I be able to run 6mm GT out of a Tikka CTR with the .308 bolt-face and the standard CTR mags? My CTR is currently in a KRG Bravo with the CTR inlet.

I'm assuming 6mm ARC is going to be right out, given that cartridge requires a short-action and grendel mags?
 

Pvt.Donut

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Patriot Valley Arms is now offering 6mm ARC prefits for the Tikka T3x, but I am unsure how this would actually work in my .308 Tikka CTR were I to purchase this barrel.

I plan on switching over to 6mm for PRS at some point an I plan on utilizing my Tikka action for the interim, but I am having trouble finding information online about compatibility. Would I be able to run 6mm GT out of a Tikka CTR with the .308 bolt-face and the standard CTR mags? My CTR is currently in a KRG Bravo with the CTR inlet.

I'm assuming 6mm ARC is going to be right out, given that cartridge requires a short-action and grendel mags?
6mm GT in a CTR magazine... Maybe. Not sure I've heard of anyone trying it. Might need some adjustment but the GT should run in AI magazines. I don't see the point in running the 6 ARC when you could run a 6 BR and get more speed and use a standard 308 bolt face.
 

Mojo_Hand_052

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6mm GT in a CTR magazine... Maybe. Not sure I've heard of anyone trying it. Might need some adjustment but the GT should run in AI magazines. I don't see the point in running the 6 ARC when you could run a 6 BR and get more speed and use a standard 308 bolt face.
Thanks for the response. I'm still trying to educate myself on the subject, and I agree with you that it's probably pointless to run 6mm ARC when I can run something with better compatibility. I hadn't considered 6mm BR, but if it works with the .308 boltface that will probably be the ticket.
 

viking78

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It might work, if you do a spacer on the magazine end, since it is so short, normal 308/6.5 creedmoor CTR mag lenght might be to much for it.
But if you change mag system to AICS, there is this MDT AICS magazine that would feed that ammo.

On that case, it is a bit smaller than 308, so im not sure how it will work on ejecting the fired brass.
308 bolt face is .473" and 6mm ARC it´s .441".
But im not familiar, can a gun smith do change on the bolt face´s.
Or should you get 223rem bolt and modified it from there.
Since there is no size between the 223rem bolt face and 308win on Tikka.
calibertikka.JPG
 
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Raffy

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It might work, if you do a spacer on the magazine end, since it is so short, normal 308/6.5 creedmoor CTR mag lenght might be to much for it.
But if you change mag system to AICS, there is this MDT AICS magazine that would feed that ammo.

On that case, it is a bit smaller than 308, so im not sure how it will work on ejecting the fired brass.
308 bolt face is .473" and 6mm ARC it´s .373".
But im not familiar, can a gun smith do change on the bolt face´s.
Or should you get 223rem bolt and modified it from there.
Since there is no size between the 223rem bolt face and 308win on Tikka.
View attachment 7363227
Regarding the bolt face, it is easier to go up a size than down a size. I dont know if going down a size would work, but there are some who have gone up to a magnum from a standard by having their gunsmith ream out the center of the bolt face with, acceptable results. Probably have to ask one about potential issues or limitations.
 

LeftyJason

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Any idea on a timelime with that? The impossibility of getting a different bolt has been holding me back from a tikka build ive had in my head
From post 7711
Over the last couple years now we've had multiple (hundreds, thousands maybe) requests from the Tikka crowd to answer the need for two things:

1. Sort out the ability to alter the bolt face on the T3.
2. Offer OEM quality T3 replacement bolts.

Well....that box is now being checked. A big ol truckload of steel is due to be delivered very soon so that the production growing pains can be sorted out. The bulk of the engineering work is already done.

So, I hope you all were serious cause they are coming!

Fall, 2020.
 

AKMarty

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Has anyone measured the lands on their rifle when it was new? Specifically the TAC A1 factory barrel in 6.5CM. I’m at .107” jump with factory 147 ELDM ammo and 1750 rounds into it.
 

LongRifles Inc.

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Any idea on a timelime with that? The impossibility of getting a different bolt has been holding me back from a tikka build ive had in my head

We are hoping for fall of this year. I realize that's a bit vague, but a job like this isn't exactly trivial. My biggest issue is ensuring the proper procedures and processes are in place so that things work smoothly. As it moves forward we'll start working on a release date.

C.
 

utnapishtim

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It's been much too long (years) since I've done any precision shooting, and I'm uncertain whether I have the time to get back into it . . . but I did line up an Elk hunt out to CO next year, and I'd like to pick up a Tikka to take out there.

I'm partial to the 7MM Rem Mag, and my plan is to pick up a stainless steel T3X and drop it into a Manners MCS-EHTA stock.

The rifles I'm looking to start with are the Hunter Stainless Fluted or the Laminated Stainless. Does anybody have any specific thoughts on fluted vs non? I'm not expecting to have to shoot any strings, but if one is more ridged than the other, I'll go that route.

(Also, looking at all of the awesome rifles in this thread really has me wondering if I should consider a 6.5 CTR. . . )
 

LeftyJason

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It's been much too long (years) since I've done any precision shooting, and I'm uncertain whether I have the time to get back into it . . . but I did line up an Elk hunt out to CO next year, and I'd like to pick up a Tikka to take out there.

I'm partial to the 7MM Rem Mag, and my plan is to pick up a stainless steel T3X and drop it into a Manners MCS-EHTA stock.

The rifles I'm looking to start with are the Hunter Stainless Fluted or the Laminated Stainless. Does anybody have any specific thoughts on fluted vs non? I'm not expecting to have to shoot any strings, but if one is more ridged than the other, I'll go that route.

(Also, looking at all of the awesome rifles in this thread really has me wondering if I should consider a 6.5 CTR. . . )
For the same contour a non fluted is always more rigid.
 

Shane431

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It's been much too long (years) since I've done any precision shooting, and I'm uncertain whether I have the time to get back into it . . . but I did line up an Elk hunt out to CO next year, and I'd like to pick up a Tikka to take out there.

I'm partial to the 7MM Rem Mag, and my plan is to pick up a stainless steel T3X and drop it into a Manners MCS-EHTA stock.

The rifles I'm looking to start with are the Hunter Stainless Fluted or the Laminated Stainless. Does anybody have any specific thoughts on fluted vs non? I'm not expecting to have to shoot any strings, but if one is more ridged than the other, I'll go that route.

(Also, looking at all of the awesome rifles in this thread really has me wondering if I should consider a 6.5 CTR. . . )

Build a 6.5 PRC off a 6.5 Creedmoor. Can be done for less than $300.

Minus the McMillan and scope and stuff.
 

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Raffy

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Build a 6.5 PRC off a 6.5 Creedmoor. Can be done for less than $300.

Minus the McMillan and scope and stuff.
Tikka is setting up to release a 6.5 PRC. Shot show interview said June but id put a BIG ish at the end of that date due to the COVID shutdown
 

awpk03s

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Has anyone measured the lands on their rifle when it was new? Specifically the TAC A1 factory barrel in 6.5CM. I’m at .107” jump with factory 147 ELDM ammo and 1750 rounds into it.
On my Tac A1, using a 140 ELDM, it’s 2.93” OAL into the lands, or 2.30” measured off the bullet ogive.
 

Gatorshark

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CTR is the way to go if you plan to immediately drop in into an better stock. CTR is a light palma barrel ish contour. sell the stock or or paint it up for a back-up, second stock.
 

Raffy

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CTR is the way to go if you plan to immediately drop in into an better stock. CTR is a light palma barrel ish contour. sell the stock or or paint it up for a back-up, second stock.
What makes the CTR better for a planned stock swap? Sorry if I missed the linkup in the discussion
 

ruebarb

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What makes the CTR better for a planned stock swap? Sorry if I missed the linkup in the discussion
Threaded barrel, external magazine fed, Pic Rail, it is just ready for a new stock or chasis. You are not waisting any money by ditching the plastic stock. The Tac1 is the only other option to offer these features, but you pay twice the price and it comes with its own chasis.
 

thestoicmarcusaurelius

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Will get some better pics but this is quickly becoming one of my favorite hunting setups I've had over the years even though it's sort of a "poor man's" version of sort of the idea of the Gap Thunder Ranch Style setups.

Tikka T3 with McGowen 7RM 18" Barrel in B&C Stock

Shoots like a pussy cat with surprisingly low recoil with the 162 ELD-X's with the Heavy Palma barrel without being overly heavy.CDD35C8A-F474-4E21-93F3-C4AA388B62F7.jpeg
 
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LeftyJason

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Do you happen to have a resource that shows the countours of factory Tikka rifles? I guess that's really the heart of my question.
The lites are about a 2.5-3 ish contour. Ctr's are about a light palma per @bohem. Varmints are slightly heavier.

To get the mag bolt face factory you have to go lite profile. Stainless lite 7 mag is a jrtxb370. Laminated stainless is jrtxb370.
 

thestoicmarcusaurelius

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It's been much too long (years) since I've done any precision shooting, and I'm uncertain whether I have the time to get back into it . . . but I did line up an Elk hunt out to CO next year, and I'd like to pick up a Tikka to take out there.

I'm partial to the 7MM Rem Mag, and my plan is to pick up a stainless steel T3X and drop it into a Manners MCS-EHTA stock.

The rifles I'm looking to start with are the Hunter Stainless Fluted or the Laminated Stainless. Does anybody have any specific thoughts on fluted vs non? I'm not expecting to have to shoot any strings, but if one is more ridged than the other, I'll go that route.

(Also, looking at all of the awesome rifles in this thread really has me wondering if I should consider a 6.5 CTR. . . )
I'm a big fan of the 7RM's myself. The factory Tikka T3 Lite barrel in 7RM I had was well under 1MOA with Hornady 162 ELD-X ammo. The McGowen pre-fit may shoot slightly better but not much. It's a solid barrel for sure though and I am still glad I did it as I wanted a shorty with a heavy profile threaded for a suppressor in 7RM for a Tikka so can't complain at all.

That's the long way of saying if you do decide to get a T3x lite in 7RM and you like the specs as far as weight and twist rate and all of those things, I can't see you being disappointed in accuracy for a hunting rifle.
 
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Gatorshark

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CTRs also have a metal anodized bottom metal and mag if you choose to put it on a stock that accepts it; like a GRS
 

thestoicmarcusaurelius

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I know that people will say that the Magpul AICS polymer mags won't work with Tikka but other than not dropping free without physically pulling the mags from the DBM, I haven't had any feeding issues at all with the magpul long action polymer mags and I think it's an atlas worx bottom metal.

BTW, anyone know a good source for metal flush fit AICS long action mags in stock anywhere? Looks like curtis has some nice looking ones but not in stock currently.
 

Lunchbox27

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Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but Straight Jacket Armory is now doing Tikka prefits.


I have 3 barrels from them for another action and they are all hammers.
 
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DMP

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Has anyone changed their TAC A1 chassis out for a Bravo? I have another rifle in a Bravo and find it more natural and comfortable than the Tikka chassis. Is there any market for the Tikka chassis if I replace it.
 

308ftWIN

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Take out your bolt stop and file the bolt stop a little bit more so the bolt can come back further which would allow it to pick up the cartridges. The ctr bolt stops allow the bolt to travel rear words a little more than the T3 lites. It would take only a couple minutes.
So first time out after doing this, no kaboom. Only very faint primer strikes. I didn't take away tons of the bolt stop material. Barreled action had been firing just fine before. Didn't mess with the barrel or the bolt. 140gr American Gunner.

Any troubleshooting tips?
 
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Raffy

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Im no gunsmith but I dont see the cause as linked. Not saying something isnt wrong, but if I understand it right the bolt stop only functions to interact with the rifle what the bolt is fully rearward. It shouldnt affect the chambered round with the bolt engaged with it. Am I nuts? Wait...dont answer that last part
 

wade2big

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So first time out after doing this, no kaboom. Only very faint primer strikes. I didn't take away tons of the bolt stop material. Barreled action had been firing just fine before. Didn't mess with the barrel or the bolt. 140gr American Gunner.

Any troubleshooting tips?
A bolt stop (release) would not cause that issue as it has nothing to do with the firing sequence. . Completely unrelated. Not closing the bolt all the way down against the action when chambering a round, or a dirty firing pin could cause it. The pin needs to be free of grease and oil. Check that.
534FC2E5-8F55-420C-BDE3-0367BF90FCF2.jpeg86E79E87-02C1-4F45-8F23-01EE3D1F4923.jpeg
 

DJL2

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Here's an oddball question - does anyone make an aftermarket stock that mimics the ergos/form of the factory stock with the vertical grip module installed? In terms of size and shape, it's about as good as it gets for a hunting stock for me. Useable slope on the fore end, fits my hands well. The comb could be 1 cm higher and still clear the bolt for disassembly, but that's minor.

@utnapishtim - I bought my 7mm TM T3x as a project gun for the action...and now I don't wanna change it. I haven't seen a POI shift even as I shoot the barrel hot. It'll put factory SST in 154/162 on top of one another if you hold up your end. I still need to try the ELD-X. At 8.75 lbs all up (ammo, sling, etc.) with a Ares BTR2 on it, it's my lightest "ready to hunt" rifle. The recoil is not unpleasant, but it does demand more of me as a shooter than I can deliver 100% of the time. I spent about 40 bucks on bedding/stabilising, and 10 bucks on a trigger spring - and it just plain gets the job done for less than $700. I like the 7mm RM a lot in terms of performance, was just gonna move laterally to the 7mm SAUM or WSM. With the 162 Amax or 168 Matrix VLD, my max COL is only like 3.4 and change...so, with new bottom metal, the not-quite-long-action wouldn't really be holding me back any if I stuck with 7mm RM for a bit.
 

physguy88

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Here's an oddball question - does anyone make an aftermarket stock that mimics the ergos/form of the factory stock with the vertical grip module installed? In terms of size and shape, it's about as good as it gets for a hunting stock for me. Useable slope on the fore end, fits my hands well. The comb could be 1 cm higher and still clear the bolt for disassembly, but that's minor.
You mean something like a McMillan Game Scout?
 

DJL2

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You mean something like a McMillan Game Scout?
I hope so...I've got one on order for my M70 already...but, I'm not throwing down another $700 bucks for a six+ month wait without getting the first one in hand.
 

DMP

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Has anyone changed their TAC A1 chassis out for a Bravo? I have another rifle in a Bravo and find it more natural and comfortable than the Tikka chassis. Is there any market for the Tikka chassis if I replace it.
Any chance this has been don