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Tikka T3 Thread

That photo was after 1200 rounds. May need another thousand to wear them away.

Judging by the burr on the lands, these markings were made after the chamber was cut. As this is my first Tikka rifle, are these markings normal? Is there a purpose for machining away the leading edge of the lands in the leade?

And yes, it doesn't shoot bad, but I expected 1/2 MOA and better considering I used precision loaded ammunition.
 
That photo was after 1200 rounds. May need another thousand to wear them away.

Judging by the burr on the lands, these markings were made after the chamber was cut. As this is my first Tikka rifle, are these markings normal? Is there a purpose for machining away the leading edge of the lands in the leade?

And yes, it doesn't shoot bad, but I expected 1/2 MOA and better considering I used precision loaded ammunition.
I have 4 Tikkas, none look like that.
 
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Hi,

I am looking at the Tikka website's 'choose model' selector. I like the configuration: T3x UPR, 308 WIN, stainless, 23.7 inches barrel.
The site gives me two models to choose from: TFRT2939A6049R4B and JRTXU316CAS (by the way, I'm not sure what the difference is between these two).
When I try to find them, it seems these models are unavailable on US gun store sites. Do you know if Tikka UPR is even available in such a configuration in the US?

Thanks.
 
Not sure in that case but they often offer a threaded and non threaded option that are otherwise identical
 
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Hi,

I am looking at the Tikka website's 'choose model' selector. I like the configuration: T3x UPR, 308 WIN, stainless, 23.7 inches barrel.
The site gives me two models to choose from: TFRT2939A6049R4B and JRTXU316CAS (by the way, I'm not sure what the difference is between these two).
When I try to find them, it seems these models are unavailable on US gun store sites. Do you know if Tikka UPR is even available in such a configuration in the US?

Thanks.
Someone will probably correct me, but I think the ‘JRT’ models are the ones we can get in the US. It might not be available in gun stores because it’s rarely imported or something. Like the CTR’s in 223


That photo was after 1200 rounds. May need another thousand to wear them away.

Judging by the burr on the lands, these markings were made after the chamber was cut. As this is my first Tikka rifle, are these markings normal? Is there a purpose for machining away the leading edge of the lands in the leade?

And yes, it doesn't shoot bad, but I expected 1/2 MOA and better considering I used precision loaded ammunition.
isn’t the guarantee 1 MOA for 5 shots in your SV?
it would take a lot of money for me to expect “1/2 MOA and better”

try some different ammo. what did you use?
 
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That photo was after 1200 rounds. May need another thousand to wear them away.

Judging by the burr on the lands, these markings were made after the chamber was cut. As this is my first Tikka rifle, are these markings normal? Is there a purpose for machining away the leading edge of the lands in the leade?

And yes, it doesn't shoot bad, but I expected 1/2 MOA and better considering I used precision loaded ammunition.
I have had three T3 223's in 1/8" none were close to the accuracy of the two 308 CTR's we have. Even speaking to Hakan Spuhr he seemed a bit disappointed with the T3 223. Now they are not bad just not consistently under 1/2". My recent 223 and I presume they all have a huge jump when using 40-55gr. The chamber seems to be cut ideal for the 75gr A-Max / ELDM. Set the boat tail junction on the shoulder neck junction and should be around 10thou from the lands. They shoot very well with this combination, as in around 1/2". These of course will not fit in the 223 lite mag.

UKgIMDF.jpg


50gr vs 75
CSs76NM.jpg



edi
 
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The 223 I have has a SAAMI/CIP chamber with the standard 0.025" freebore. They all do. Sako does not make non-standard rifles unless it is well documented hence the twist rate. Else they won't pass the CIP checks.
 
Someone will probably correct me, but I think the ‘JRT’ models are the ones we can get in the US.
This is correct, but make sure you are in the US website vs the International one.

The international site, IIRC, does not have the JRT prefix even on guns imported to the US (which makes sense, I guess). So you’ll wander around the international site thinking that there are no Tikka guns imported!

Despite being probably the largest civilian firearm market in the entire world, Tikka and Beretta sure don’t go out of their way to cater to us.
 
....
isn’t the guarantee 1 MOA for 5 shots in your SV?
it would take a lot of money for me to expect “1/2 MOA and better”

try some different ammo. what did you use?
The guarantee is for using commercial ammunition. With Winchester white box 62gr FMJ cartridges it puts 5 shots in just a hair under 1 MOA. Sako/Tikka specifically states that reloads should not be used.

That said, I worked up a load using Lapua Match brass, CCI400 primers, 53gr Hornady VMax 0.020" off the lands and a local manufactured ball powder. Velocity is around 3300fps. I tried using Varget as well, but the results were worse. I've even batched cases by weight and bullets by weight and ogive. The group shown is the best result of 300 rounds of testing different components over 2 months.
 
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T3x .223 Varmint, KRG BRAVO CTR, KRG NVMC, KRG ARCA Spigot, KRG ARCA rail, KRG/TRG Folding butt stock, Sterk swept back bolt handle, Murphy 20moa stainless rail, Nightforce Unimount 20moa 34mm 1.54", Zeiss S3 LRP 4-25x50 ZF-MRi #16, MDT GRND-POD.

Still need to thread it, second T3x .223 build but this one will keep the factory barrel and will be fed everything
Thanks for this. I have been trying to figure out if the CTR version of the Bravo would take a folding butt stock - and it appears it does. (y)
 
Anyone running a 24" 6.5PRC? Just wondering what kind of velocities you get? Thinking this might be a decent longish range off-the-shelf option.
 
Has anyone weighed the Tac A1 chassis? I'm replacing the stock bbl with a Proof CF 20" and thinking of going with a lighter chassis too, but not sure how much weight savings I'll get. I've got a match this weekend and don't want to remove the action to weigh myself.
 
Might as well ask here. Tikka lite Veil (SS barrel) in 300 Win. Rifle has like 15 shots using Hornady CX bullet (factory ammo) and Federal Premium Berger Hybrid. Only ran 2 slightly oiled patches with ballistol before shooting followed by a dry patch.

Rifle is a copper mine or so I thought. I don't get the blue color anymore with Boretech Eliminator and I tried KG12 as well.

Here is what I'm looking at. It's the same from chamber to muzzle crown every few inches. It's not rust as I also tried Kroil. Might be pitting ? But it doesn't look fully like pitting as it's gold/white. This is after cleaning.

Any idea? I've never seen something like this in my rifles.
 

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Might as well ask here. Tikka lite Veil (SS barrel) in 300 Win. Rifle has like 15 shots using Hornady CX bullet (factory ammo) and Federal Premium Berger Hybrid. Only ran 2 slightly oiled patches with ballistol before shooting followed by a dry patch.

Rifle is a copper mine or so I thought. I don't get the blue color anymore with Boretech Eliminator and I tried KG12 as well.

Here is what I'm looking at. It's the same from chamber to muzzle crown every few inches. It's not rust as I also tried Kroil. Might be pitting ? But it doesn't look fully like pitting as it's gold/white. This is after cleaning.

Any idea? I've never seen something like this in my rifles.
How does it shoot?
 
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How does it shoot?
I would say around 1 to 1.5 MOA with 3 shots. After 15 rounds down the tube it's hard to tell. Should be able to throw some more this week and report back.

It's just weird because I own a couple of rifles and none of them are this ugly with a borescope including 2 Tikkas. I'm able to clean them relatively well with a couple of patches of Boretech after 100-200 rounds. If I don't plan to shoot them for a while I just push a lightly oiled patch before storing them.

Now with this one the patches look clean while the bore is ugly. I wonder what could have done this.
 
2851 fps out of a factory 24" Roughtech suppressed with factory 147 ELDM.
That's better than expected, thanks.
Those 6.5 PRC Tikka barrels have long throats like all Tikka barrels and velocities run comparatively slow as a result. A 147gr eldm can be seated way out there leaving lots of room for powder to take full advantage of the case in order to bring the Tikka to life. Long action magazines will be needed of course.
 
Has anyone weighed the Tac A1 chassis? I'm replacing the stock bbl with a Proof CF 20" and thinking of going with a lighter chassis too, but not sure how much weight savings I'll get. I've got a match this weekend and don't want to remove the action to weigh myself.

Need this info too LOL
 
Here's what I call my Super Varmint Lite

My old T3 Lite .223 in a T3x Super Varmint Stock and a Waters Magazine so I can load long .

lRohZlu.jpg

Came across those Waters mags earlier when trying to figure out how to be able to seat longer 223 in the Sporter, but it’s a hard pill to swallow when I could just convert it to AICS for pretty much the same price, even if it requires some fitting.


IMG_9279.jpeg
 
Picked up a couple waters mag for my 7 saum. They feed better than the tikka mags or aics with different bottom metal. They're expensive but I'll probably order more.
 
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Has anyone weighed the Tac A1 chassis? I'm replacing the stock bbl with a Proof CF 20" and thinking of going with a lighter chassis too, but not sure how much weight savings I'll get. I've got a match this weekend and don't want to remove the action to weigh myself.
If you’ve a t3x action in 6.5 Creedmoor, I’ll weigh my Tack A1, and you can subtract one from the other.

Hopefully that will sort it out for you?
 
If you’ve a t3x action in 6.5 Creedmoor, I’ll weigh my Tack A1, and you can subtract one from the other.

Hopefully that will sort it out for you?
I've got the Tac A1 as well. I just don't want to take the action out so I can just weigh the chassis
 
Anyone have a 10-round .223 Waters mag with 2.6” OAL that they don’t need? Or does anyone need some Waters mags?

I need the above mentioned 223 mag for my Sporter, but he said it’s going to be expensive to ship from Australia and recommended getting more stuff in the box to make shipping worth it.
 
Weighed it this evening.

no muzzle brake, bolt, mag or bipod, scope and bag rider removed 11lb 12oz, give or take an oz.
 
Started and possibly finished load development for Tooley chambered Bartlein

140eldm rl26 @ 2860. Called flier was 4th round but even with it (.7”) I’m not sure if would spend anymore time on this for my needs. 10 shots. This was shot as fast as I could comfortably shoot aside from walking down to mark the called shot when it happened.
BF7843FF-5BEC-4E32-B790-5DE8447B356A.jpeg
 
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I won’t lie, for a good 15 minutes during the process I thought I’d ruined it, but it was fun and I’ve saved myself about 280 bucks on cerakote which I can now throw at ammo 👍

Rattlecan is ALWAYS the way to go. Cerakote just looks like you try too hard.

The real secret is to let the rattlecan wear naturally, that’s when it really starts to look good. And when it gets too beat, blast it again.
 
Rattlecan is ALWAYS the way to go. Cerakote just looks like you try too hard.

The real secret is to let the rattlecan wear naturally, that’s when it really starts to look good. And when it gets too beat, blast it again.
I have gone rattlecan as you put it a couple of times. IMO the key is taking it slow and several coats of a sealant as last coats. I was pretty happy with this, and always you learn a bit more to use on your next paint job
IMG_8738.jpeg
 

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Might as well ask here. Tikka lite Veil (SS barrel) in 300 Win. Rifle has like 15 shots using Hornady CX bullet (factory ammo) and Federal Premium Berger Hybrid. Only ran 2 slightly oiled patches with ballistol before shooting followed by a dry patch.

Rifle is a copper mine or so I thought. I don't get the blue color anymore with Boretech Eliminator and I tried KG12 as well.

Here is what I'm looking at. It's the same from chamber to muzzle crown every few inches. It's not rust as I also tried Kroil. Might be pitting ? But it doesn't look fully like pitting as it's gold/white. This is after cleaning.

Any idea? I've never seen something like this in my rifles.
Google "filiform corrosion"

The big question is, how does it shoot?
 
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I'm really liking the Waters Mag , it's transformed the old .223 and opened up the option of 80gr ELDM's .

667A6Z7.jpg

Just got my Waters mags for .223 and they are awesome. Took a little time to wear in for me, but they are buttery smooth now and will take super long COAL. Highly recommend them for anyone with the standard Tikka inlet.
 
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Same for the WSM/Saum mags for me. I was going to go LA with a red snake tactical BM and aics but the waters mags are great. Need to order a few more.
 
Hello. Would anyone know where I could get a replacement extractor for the t3x in .223? Everywhere seems to be sold out of them.
 
Hi everyone, short-time lurker, first-time poster. I recently moved from the urban Northeast to rural Texas. Learned shortly after moving here that there is a 1000 yd range and I'm looking to get a bolt piece to hunt with and ring steel past 500 yds. I'm a sinister so that limits my options somewhat and I'm seriously leaning toward the Tikka T3X. Does the light veil have a stainless barrel under the cerakote and does the fluting allow for longer strings of fire or does it just save weight?