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Tikka T3 Thread

Tikka T3 CTR 260Rem
20180316_165635.jpg
 
For anyone who has had a Manner's inletted for aftermarket DBM who did you go with? CDI Precision? Manner's? elsewhere? Bought the stock off here and it's for the Factory DBM, last thing left to do on this build.
CDI Precision will do the inletting for free when you buy their DBM at any retail store. Jeff (the owner) is an awesome guy. He is in Sarasota, Florida.
 
Not sure if this is the best place to ask this or not but I was looking for some advice on testing ammo. As I stated in my recent post I am new to the PR game and new to my CTR. I do not reload at this time and so am looking to test out several different brands of match ammo. The few questions that come to mind are things such as do I take several warm up shots so I don't start with a cold bore? Should I clean between each brand and a five round group? Should I let the gun cool between groupings or just go for it. Want to make sure I do the best test I can on my end. Eventually I will be getting into reloading and load development but for now this is the best I can do. I searched the forum for info on this and only came across one thread related to a .22 and was not sure there was much difference. On a final note/question does anyone know how to get one box of Prime ammo without having to pay almost $18 for shipping? I really want to add Prime to my list of test ammo but with that amount of shipping ouch. I will do it if I have to just hoping their is a more economical way to get some.
 
Best way I've found to try Prime is to locate someone near you (or here on the Hide/other forums) that wouldn't mind selling and shipping you a box.
 
Not sure if this is the best place to ask this or not but I was looking for some advice on testing ammo. As I stated in my recent post I am new to the PR game and new to my CTR. I do not reload at this time and so am looking to test out several different brands of match ammo. The few questions that come to mind are things such as do I take several warm up shots so I don't start with a cold bore? Should I clean between each brand and a five round group? Should I let the gun cool between groupings or just go for it. Want to make sure I do the best test I can on my end. Eventually I will be getting into reloading and load development but for now this is the best I can do. I searched the forum for info on this and only came across one thread related to a .22 and was not sure there was much difference. On a final note/question does anyone know how to get one box of Prime ammo without having to pay almost $18 for shipping? I really want to add Prime to my list of test ammo but with that amount of shipping ouch. I will do it if I have to just hoping their is a more economical way to get some.

I say just go for it. One of my CTRs in 6.5 Creed loves 147 ELDM match ammo, the other ones love Prime. I'd try these two options, and also 140 ELDM match ammo. I've not had any luck with Fed Gold Medal Match ammo in this caliber, SD and ES are everywhere. If you're getting into match shooting, test your ammo like you'll shoot at a match, cold bore then 10rds, wait a bit, 10 more rds, etc. I've found if my rifle likes the factory ammo offered it, it doesn't really matter, hot or cold, clean or dirty. I don't ever clean my bores until accuracy degrades. If you're planning on handloading in the future, Prime is loaded in Norma brass, which I've found to be consistent and good quality, more so than the Hornady brass. Good luck and have fun!
 
Thanks for the info. I have a box of the Norma Match ammo. Same brass and Prime then I assume? The ELDM rounds are in my list to try out. Guess I will see if I can find a box of prime and go for it.
 
Thanks for the info. I have a box of the Norma Match ammo. Same brass and Prime then I assume? The ELDM rounds are in my list to try out. Guess I will see if I can find a box of prime and go for it.

If I err not, Prime/Norma brass is manufactured by RUAG Swiss. Don't quote me on that tho. If you want to PM me your address, I may be able to ship you a box of Prime 6.5 Creedmoor next week. Got a case or two here so wouldn't miss one box.
 
Not sure if this is the best place to ask this or not but I was looking for some advice on testing ammo. As I stated in my recent post I am new to the PR game and new to my CTR. I do not reload at this time and so am looking to test out several different brands of match ammo. The few questions that come to mind are things such as do I take several warm up shots so I don't start with a cold bore? Should I clean between each brand and a five round group? Should I let the gun cool between groupings or just go for it. Want to make sure I do the best test I can on my end. Eventually I will be getting into reloading and load development but for now this is the best I can do. I searched the forum for info on this and only came across one thread related to a .22 and was not sure there was much difference. On a final note/question does anyone know how to get one box of Prime ammo without having to pay almost $18 for shipping? I really want to add Prime to my list of test ammo but with that amount of shipping ouch. I will do it if I have to just hoping their is a more economical way to get some.

The way i do my reloading test.

I do clean the barrel with bore snake before every shot, so there is no "greas shot", that is typical about 1-2" off the target.
I do shoot 5-shot groups.
I do take a pause after every 5-shot, so that the barrel gets cool down.
So if i shoot 5-shots, i go and walk to the target and back.
It takes about 5-minutes, so the barrel is cool to take the next batch.
After this round, same thing for the round of test shoot there is.
I feel a bit stupid to shoot all the test rounds as straight fire, because the barrel will be quite
hot after the 5-rounds to repeat fire, so that tactic i use is showed to be quite good.
You will see what load is good and what is not.
 
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What brass you guys have found to be best for your Tikka 260rem?
So far what i have tested, Lapua seems to be the best that can handle the pressure best.
 
If I err not, Prime/Norma brass is manufactured by RUAG Swiss. Don't quote me on that tho. If you want to PM me your address, I may be able to ship you a box of Prime 6.5 Creedmoor next week. Got a case or two here so wouldn't miss one box.

Awesome thanks. Sending PM now.
 
The way i do my reloading test.

I do clean the barrel with bore snake before every shot, so there is no "greas shot", that is typical about 1-2" off the target.
I do shoot 5-shot groups.
I do take a pause after every 5-shot, so that the barrel gets cool down.
So if i shoot 5-shots, i go and walk to the target and back.
It takes about 5-minutes, so the barrel is cool to take the next batch.
After this round, same thing for the round of test shoot there is.
I feel a bit stupid to shoot all the test rounds as straight fire, because the barrel will be quite
hot after the 5-rounds to repeat fire, so that tactic i use is showed to be quite good.
You will see what load is good and what is not.

Great info. Gives me a place to start. That is sort of the direction I was originally thinking. Just to clarify you clean between each shot or between each five round group shoot so each group starts with a clean and cool gun? Is that correct?
 
Wanted to say thanks to kabarNC for the help and ammo. It is very nice to see that people are still willing to help out complete strangers. I was told by a friend that shoots on the PRS that this site was amazing including the people here kabarNC shows that to be true. Will see soon how the CTR likes Prime ammo. ?
 
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Wanted to say thanks to kabarNC for the help and ammo. It is very nice to see that people are still willing to help out complete strangers. I was told by a friend that shoots on the PRS that this site was amazing including the people here kabarNC shows that to be true. Will see soon how the CTR likes Prime ammo. ?

Hey, I'm just one of the crowd. Enjoy!
 
What brass you guys have found to be best for your Tikka 260rem?
So far what i have tested, Lapua seems to be the best that can handle the pressure best.

I tried Remington, Nosler, and Lapua in my 260 CTR barrel. I ended up using Lapua. I do have 96 Nosler I need to get rid of. I re-barreled to 6.5 Creedmoor.
 
Alright! I got home from deployment this week so I was able to install everything on Friday after work. The front action screw that came with the Bravo chassis was slightly too large to thread into the action of the rifle, but Fastenal had what I needed when I stopped by after work. IDK if this was because they just sent the wrong screw or if there was a change to Tikkas since 2007 when I bought mine, but when I called KRG they were very helpful (I spoke to John); I just didn't want to wait for a screw to ship so I bought one locally (I've already been waiting since January to install this stuff lol). If anyone else runs into this issue, the screws only sell in packs of 10 or larger so I have 9 spares.

Anyway, list of what I installed:

-KRG Bravo Chassis-also with their AICS logo mags, I bought (2) 10 rounders and a five rounder since I hunt with this rifle. It came with the mag release button already installed-not sure if they are supposed to though? I wasn't going to buy that piece but I do like it a lot after getting used to it.
-Hook-style cover for the chassis (I'd prefer if this was the one it shipped with)
-KRG spigot mount with QD sling plate on the left side
-Magpul M-Lok QD cup on the front left of the forend skin
-Glades Armory black melonite w/ oversized tactical knob. Very happy with this, just needed a healthy dose of loctite to keep the knob from loosening.
-Glades Armory black aluminum bolt shroud to replace the plastic factory one
-Harris HBLM-I am considering going to an HBLMS with pod-lock
-Warne M6T3 20 MOA 1 piece tactical rail
-Seekins/Vortex Precision Machined Rings. 35mm diameter, 1" height
-Vortex Razor HD gen 1 5-20 MRAD FFP scope

I am still waiting on my tool-less buttpad height mechanism that I ordered to ship, KRG was backordered when I ordered everything. Also waiting for the Tikka specific cheekpiece to come out, I'll be ordering one of those too. As it is now the cheekpiece is at a good height but another 1/4" would make it perfect. The cocking piece would prevent the bolt from going back far enough to slip over the rim of a round in the magazine if it were any higher though.

Overall I am very pleased with the chassis, I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but the ergonomics are very good. The grip is fatter than I am used to but with a thumb on the shelf grip its very comfortable. I have a case of 168 gr GMM (the rifle likes it a lot) waiting to sight in with and all I need to do before that is boresight it. Ordered a Pelican 1750 today, so hopefully that will come in and I can cut the foam this week.

Enjoy your porn:
 

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I've ordered a Manners T4A with a CTR DBM inlet. I initially ordered a T2A, however, was told that the options with the CTR inlet are the T4A and T6A, any other stocks inlet for a tikka would require CDI bottom metal.

I have my CTR in an A3 which McM inlet for CTR DBM. Game Scout is too narrow for the CTR bottom Metal.
 
Alright! I got home from deployment this week so I was able to install everything on Friday after work. The front action screw that came with the Bravo chassis was slightly too large to thread into the action of the rifle, but Fastenal had what I needed when I stopped by after work. IDK if this was because they just sent the wrong screw or if there was a change to Tikkas since 2007 when I bought mine, but when I called KRG they were very helpful (I spoke to John); I just didn't want to wait for a screw to ship so I bought one locally (I've already been waiting since January to install this stuff lol). If anyone else runs into this issue, the screws only sell in packs of 10 or larger so I have 9 spares.

Anyway, list of what I installed:

-KRG Bravo Chassis-also with their AICS logo mags, I bought (2) 10 rounders and a five rounder since I hunt with this rifle. It came with the mag release button already installed-not sure if they are supposed to though? I wasn't going to buy that piece but I do like it a lot after getting used to it.
-Hook-style cover for the chassis (I'd prefer if this was the one it shipped with)
-KRG spigot mount with QD sling plate on the left side
-Magpul M-Lok QD cup on the front left of the forend skin
-Glades Armory black melonite w/ oversized tactical knob. Very happy with this, just needed a healthy dose of loctite to keep the knob from loosening.
-Glades Armory black aluminum bolt shroud to replace the plastic factory one
-Harris HBLM-I am considering going to an HBLMS with pod-lock
-Warne M6T3 20 MOA 1 piece tactical rail
-Seekins/Vortex Precision Machined Rings. 35mm diameter, 1" height
-Vortex Razor HD gen 1 5-20 MRAD FFP scope

I am still waiting on my tool-less buttpad height mechanism that I ordered to ship, KRG was backordered when I ordered everything. Also waiting for the Tikka specific cheekpiece to come out, I'll be ordering one of those too. As it is now the cheekpiece is at a good height but another 1/4" would make it perfect. The cocking piece would prevent the bolt from going back far enough to slip over the rim of a round in the magazine if it were any higher though.

Overall I am very pleased with the chassis, I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but the ergonomics are very good. The grip is fatter than I am used to but with a thumb on the shelf grip its very comfortable. I have a case of 168 gr GMM (the rifle likes it a lot) waiting to sight in with and all I need to do before that is boresight it. Ordered a Pelican 1750 today, so hopefully that will come in and I can cut the foam this week.

Enjoy your porn:

VERY nice!
 
Will ctr bottom metal and magazines work with any t3 action or do modifications need to be made? Also has anyone tried to run .300 wsm out of ctr mags?
 
Is the
Tikka T3x TAC-A1 223 Rem available? Its not on Tikkas website but it was at Shot 2018. Eurooptic shows it as backordered. Was looking at this over the discontinued Ruger RPR in .223
 
Alright! I got home from deployment this week so I was able to install everything on Friday after work. The front action screw that came with the Bravo chassis was slightly too large to thread into the action of the rifle, but Fastenal had what I needed when I stopped by after work. IDK if this was because they just sent the wrong screw or if there was a change to Tikkas since 2007 when I bought mine, but when I called KRG they were very helpful (I spoke to John); I just didn't want to wait for a screw to ship so I bought one locally (I've already been waiting since January to install this stuff lol). If anyone else runs into this issue, the screws only sell in packs of 10 or larger so I have 9 spares.

Anyway, list of what I installed:

-KRG Bravo Chassis-also with their AICS logo mags, I bought (2) 10 rounders and a five rounder since I hunt with this rifle. It came with the mag release button already installed-not sure if they are supposed to though? I wasn't going to buy that piece but I do like it a lot after getting used to it.
-Hook-style cover for the chassis (I'd prefer if this was the one it shipped with)
-KRG spigot mount with QD sling plate on the left side
-Magpul M-Lok QD cup on the front left of the forend skin
-Glades Armory black melonite w/ oversized tactical knob. Very happy with this, just needed a healthy dose of loctite to keep the knob from loosening.
-Glades Armory black aluminum bolt shroud to replace the plastic factory one
-Harris HBLM-I am considering going to an HBLMS with pod-lock
-Warne M6T3 20 MOA 1 piece tactical rail
-Seekins/Vortex Precision Machined Rings. 35mm diameter, 1" height
-Vortex Razor HD gen 1 5-20 MRAD FFP scope

I am still waiting on my tool-less buttpad height mechanism that I ordered to ship, KRG was backordered when I ordered everything. Also waiting for the Tikka specific cheekpiece to come out, I'll be ordering one of those too. As it is now the cheekpiece is at a good height but another 1/4" would make it perfect. The cocking piece would prevent the bolt from going back far enough to slip over the rim of a round in the magazine if it were any higher though.

Overall I am very pleased with the chassis, I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but the ergonomics are very good. The grip is fatter than I am used to but with a thumb on the shelf grip its very comfortable. I have a case of 168 gr GMM (the rifle likes it a lot) waiting to sight in with and all I need to do before that is boresight it. Ordered a Pelican 1750 today, so hopefully that will come in and I can cut the foam this week.

Enjoy your porn:


SSWWEEET :p
 
Alright! I got home from deployment this week so I was able to install everything on Friday after work. The front action screw that came with the Bravo chassis was slightly too large to thread into the action of the rifle, but Fastenal had what I needed when I stopped by after work. IDK if this was because they just sent the wrong screw or if there was a change to Tikkas since 2007 when I bought mine, but when I called KRG they were very helpful (I spoke to John); I just didn't want to wait for a screw to ship so I bought one locally (I've already been waiting since January to install this stuff lol). If anyone else runs into this issue, the screws only sell in packs of 10 or larger so I have 9 spares.

Anyway, list of what I installed:

-KRG Bravo Chassis-also with their AICS logo mags, I bought (2) 10 rounders and a five rounder since I hunt with this rifle. It came with the mag release button already installed-not sure if they are supposed to though? I wasn't going to buy that piece but I do like it a lot after getting used to it.
-Hook-style cover for the chassis (I'd prefer if this was the one it shipped with)
-KRG spigot mount with QD sling plate on the left side
-Magpul M-Lok QD cup on the front left of the forend skin
-Glades Armory black melonite w/ oversized tactical knob. Very happy with this, just needed a healthy dose of loctite to keep the knob from loosening.
-Glades Armory black aluminum bolt shroud to replace the plastic factory one
-Harris HBLM-I am considering going to an HBLMS with pod-lock
-Warne M6T3 20 MOA 1 piece tactical rail
-Seekins/Vortex Precision Machined Rings. 35mm diameter, 1" height
-Vortex Razor HD gen 1 5-20 MRAD FFP scope

I am still waiting on my tool-less buttpad height mechanism that I ordered to ship, KRG was backordered when I ordered everything. Also waiting for the Tikka specific cheekpiece to come out, I'll be ordering one of those too. As it is now the cheekpiece is at a good height but another 1/4" would make it perfect. The cocking piece would prevent the bolt from going back far enough to slip over the rim of a round in the magazine if it were any higher though.

Overall I am very pleased with the chassis, I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but the ergonomics are very good. The grip is fatter than I am used to but with a thumb on the shelf grip its very comfortable. I have a case of 168 gr GMM (the rifle likes it a lot) waiting to sight in with and all I need to do before that is boresight it. Ordered a Pelican 1750 today, so hopefully that will come in and I can cut the foam this week.

Enjoy your porn:


Very nice!!! Congrats on the sweet setup. I am very much looking forward to picking up a KRG Bravo once they get the cheek piece dialed in!
 
Here is a factory Tikka T3X Lite in 22-250 with the 22" 1:8 twist barrel. A few oz under 10 pounds without a magazine or bipod but still not overly heavy in the MDT LSS-XL with a Bushnell LRHS on top of it.
WM7nRJ7.jpg


Loaded up 75 grain ELDMs and once I got them going 3380 fps with great ES I started trying to find a good seating depth. Ended up where I started with them most certainly liking to be in the lands.

#1 was at the lands and #2 was 20 thou off, #3 40 thou off, and #4 60 thou off. Next day I loaded up five more at the lands for #5 and I think I am done with that load now. Pretty impressed with a factory barrel Tikka can do for sure and 75 ELDs at nearly 3400 fps is going to be a lot of fun at distance.....maybe more fun than the 6.5 CTR?? :)

8HXFUvk.jpg
 
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Wow. That’s for sure a shoother! And at that speed should be very good at distance.
 
Oh, a couple other things on mine. The bolt stop on my rifle is definitely metal, and a magnet sticks to it so I'm guessing steel-maybe MIM. IDK when they went to plastic ones but mine is not plastic and does not have the diagonal indentations on it.

Its not that heavy, 12.8 lbs unloaded, 13.8 with a loaded 10 rounder and 13.2 with a loaded 5 rounder. Balance point is just in front of the magwell fence so it carries easily and I can definitely see it continuing to be my primary hunting gun.
 
Is the
Tikka T3x TAC-A1 223 Rem available? Its not on Tikkas website but it was at Shot 2018. Eurooptic shows it as backordered. Was looking at this over the discontinued Ruger RPR in .223

Man, they should have done this in 24” barrel. When is tikka gonna stop shipping these things with 0 moa rails?!
 
How´s the mag been operated on this 223 TAC A1?
Is there spacer in the mag and lips are folded in, or is there a new mag for this caliber?
There are no pictures anywhere of this 223 TAC.
20MOA rail would be nice in CTR and specially on TAC.
 
Anyone running the ARC 10 round mags? I am having an issue with the 4th or 6th round nosediving and missing the feed ramp. I have tried every combination loading the mag with 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, and 4 rounds and it happens with them all. It only happens once a mag no matter how many rounds I have in the mag. I have upgraded the followers to the MK Machining improved follower. I ran about 100 rounds through the rifle yesterday and on 2 different ARC mags it happened every time. Switched back to the AI for a couple and it didn't happen. I really want to like these as they are so much smoother than the AI. Odd thing is I got home and ran four full loaded 10 round mags through the rifle on a bench and did not have one hiccup. Only thing I can think of is that the follower is getting hung up on the inside of the mag and forcing the round down?

Obligatory picture to drool over:
ktLHQDI.jpg
 
Anyone running the ARC 10 round mags? I am having an issue with the 4th or 6th round nosediving and missing the feed ramp. I have tried every combination loading the mag with 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, and 4 rounds and it happens with them all. It only happens once a mag no matter how many rounds I have in the mag. I have upgraded the followers to the MK Machining improved follower. I ran about 100 rounds through the rifle yesterday and on 2 different ARC mags it happened every time. Switched back to the AI for a couple and it didn't happen. I really want to like these as they are so much smoother than the AI. Odd thing is I got home and ran four full loaded 10 round mags through the rifle on a bench and did not have one hiccup. Only thing I can think of is that the follower is getting hung up on the inside of the mag and forcing the round down?

Obligatory picture to drool over:
ktLHQDI.jpg

MK Machine has a follower that supposedly fixes that, worth a look
 
Anyone running the ARC 10 round mags? I am having an issue with the 4th or 6th round nosediving and missing the feed ramp. I have tried every combination loading the mag with 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, and 4 rounds and it happens with them all. It only happens once a mag no matter how many rounds I have in the mag. I have upgraded the followers to the MK Machining improved follower. I ran about 100 rounds through the rifle yesterday and on 2 different ARC mags it happened every time. Switched back to the AI for a couple and it didn't happen. I really want to like these as they are so much smoother than the AI. Odd thing is I got home and ran four full loaded 10 round mags through the rifle on a bench and did not have one hiccup. Only thing I can think of is that the follower is getting hung up on the inside of the mag and forcing the round down?

Obligatory picture to drool over:
ktLHQDI.jpg

First... sweet looking stick!

Yup, mine too, nose dives... its frustrating. Im still waiting for Ted or someone else to iron this magazine out. I always go back to my aics mags, but they are so damn long.
 
MK Machine has a follower that supposedly fixes that, worth a look

tried that

First... sweet looking stick!

Yup, mine too, nose dives... its frustrating. Im still waiting for Ted or someone else to iron this magazine out. I always go back to my aics mags, but they are so damn long.

Thanks, yeah really frustrating as the rifle functions much smoother with the ARC mags.
 
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Dang, they are some fine looking groups! I just did some load development with them too and they like to be pushed hard and be closer to the lands in my rifle too.
Any signs of pressure? What powder were you running?
Didn't realise they're running a 22-250 with 1-8 twist?

Loaded up 75 grain ELDMs and once I got them going 3380 fps with great ES I started trying to find a good seating depth. Ended up where I started with them most certainly liking to be in the lands.

#1 was at the lands and #2 was 20 thou off, #3 40 thou off, and #4 60 thou off. Next day I loaded up five more at the lands for #5 and I think I am done with that load now. Pretty impressed with a factory barrel Tikka can do for sure and 75 ELDs at nearly 3400 fps is going to be a lot of fun at distance.....maybe more fun than the 6.5 CTR?? :)
 
Can someone with a whiskey 3 folder take a top down picture with it in the folded position? Also side pictures with it folded.
 
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is the rail on the front of the A1 Tac interchangeable with ar10/ar15 handguards? I've not found much info on this particular topic.
 
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Dang, they are some fine looking groups! I just did some load development with them too and they like to be pushed hard and be closer to the lands in my rifle too.
Any signs of pressure? What powder were you running?
Didn't realise they're running a 22-250 with 1-8 twist?

It was a special run of Tikkas from Whittaker that were special order.

I am using RL-26 for powder to get the 3380 fps out of the 22” barrel with the 75 ELDM. No pressure. Using lapua brass.
 
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Finally got out to the range to sight in today and must say I'm impressed. At 12.8 lbs unloaded this rifle is incredibly comfortable to shoot, and between the rifle and chassis itself the controls are quick and intuitive to operate. The KRG AICS mags worked flawlessly and smoothly.

The tool-less buttpad height adjustment mechanism was sitting in my mailbox when I got home (they were backordered when I ordered everything else-go figure it gets here after I go to the range). Made some small adjustments to the foam in my Pelican 1750 to fit it; without any LOP spacers the tool less buttpad mechanism adds about 1/2" to the LOP-about the same as two spacers, so I took out the spacer I had in there. Once the Tikka specific cheekpiece is out and I can get another 1/4" out of the comb it will be perfect.

I got it all dialed in and included two groups that I fired after I sighted in. The first group is 7 rounds at about 1 MOA, and the second is 5 rounds with one flyer that opened it from about .6 to 1.5 MOA. That was all me though, I haven't shot scoped rifles in about 2 years so I definitely have room to improve and tighten things up, and the wind today didn't help.
 

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Finally got out to the range to sight in today and must say I'm impressed. At 12.8 lbs unloaded this rifle is incredibly comfortable to shoot, and between the rifle and chassis itself the controls are quick and intuitive to operate. The KRG AICS mags worked flawlessly and smoothly.

The tool-less buttpad height adjustment mechanism was sitting in my mailbox when I got home (they were backordered when I ordered everything else-go figure it gets here after I go to the range). Made some small adjustments to the foam in my Pelican 1750 to fit it; without any LOP spacers the tool less buttpad mechanism adds about 1/2" to the LOP-about the same as two spacers, so I took out the spacer I had in there. Once the Tikka specific cheekpiece is out and I can get another 1/4" out of the comb it will be perfect.

I got it all dialed in and included two groups that I fired after I sighted in. The first group is 7 rounds at about 1 MOA, and the second is 5 rounds with one flyer that opened it from about .6 to 1.5 MOA. That was all me though, I haven't shot scoped rifles in about 2 years so I definitely have room to improve and tighten things up, and the wind today didn't help.
Wow that’s a good looking set up...I am going to buy a CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor to hunt and target shoot with and was thinking of a Manners stock but maybe I should consider this chassis.

Seems a bit heavy but most of my hunting will be from a blind so not that important for light weight.

Congrats on a very nice set up ??