T3 Lite .308 in MDT chassis:
Using a "Reticle-Tru" to confirm the scope is not canted:
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T3 6mm Remington, Lilja barrel. The stock is from an older .300WM T3, that I swiped for my "Ultimate long range varmint rifle".
It wears a 4-14 Leupold with M1 turret installed.
It shoots tiny, tiny little groups using Sierra 85 grain Hollow Point Game Kings, trucking along at an average of 3430 FPS.
Pure lighting bolt stuff for coyotes.
It wears a 4-14 Leupold with M1 turret installed.
It shoots tiny, tiny little groups using Sierra 85 grain Hollow Point Game Kings, trucking along at an average of 3430 FPS.
Pure lighting bolt stuff for coyotes.
This one no longer resides with me, as I traded to a friend.
.223 Remington 8 twist, wearing a 4-12 Leupold, with M1 ele Turret
It has accounted for a BUNCH of dogs:
.223 Remington 8 twist, wearing a 4-12 Leupold, with M1 ele Turret
It has accounted for a BUNCH of dogs:
I ordered mine from Eric at Possum Hollow.
Nice setup, I would like to get the same scope. What is the height of your rings?
Possum Hollow #5 is what I use.
I use the Possum hollow as well, don't remember the number but pretty sure I got it from midwayusa.
I just picked up a T3 Lite a few weeks ago. I ordered a bolt replacement and a limb saver pad and a 20 moa base. It's going to be a nice light carry rifle for the hills. I just put a SWFA 6x mil quad scope on it for now. For those of you that have threaded the barrels, did you chop the barrels back? If so, what length?
Thanks
Thanks
I had LRI thread my lite 223 and 243 barrels, both 1/2"-28. Chopped 4" off the 223 and 3" off the 243. I use thread adapters I picked up from a guy who sells in the PX here and on Accurateshooter, I believe his handle is John1187. I run an SAS Barricade on them, it's a very light can. Still get about 3 moa poi shift with the can on (with the 223 anyway)
I've got a CTR ordered and was wondering if anyone had issues with a stock pack and the cheek piece that comes on he CTR stocks? I've go several Eagle and Triad packs that I like to use and didn't know how they would work with the riser on the Tikka. Can they be removed or are they molded in like that?
Hey Wes 1, what's the stock on the left and did it come pre-inletted for the CTR?
looks like a McMillan M40?
Pretty much exactly what I'm looking for!
looks like a McMillan M40?
Pretty much exactly what I'm looking for!
I wouldn't worry about it. I have a Triad on mine and it still needs spacers, and I run my scopes as low as they'll go, generally.
I bought it as a Sako flat top and sent it to Steve at Pinnacle Arms in Beaver Colorado. He did a full inlet and bedding job, plus fabricated/installed the tombstone style recoil lug.
I have an SKD stock pack, and it works great but it is high enough that it gets in the way for bolt removal and cleaning.
Does anyone have experience with the German Gun Stocks designed for the T3X CTR? I like that it appears to use the CTR bottom metal, since I already have spare CTR mags, it doesn't need bedding, and it is relatively lightweight:
http://cms.german-gun-stock.de/index.php/en/chassis-en/8-hauptmenue/9-predator
Have watched Pt 1 of a review:
https://youtu.be/bSlJZEXwa5Q
http://cms.german-gun-stock.de/index.php/en/chassis-en/8-hauptmenue/9-predator
Have watched Pt 1 of a review:
https://youtu.be/bSlJZEXwa5Q
Has anybody added the beavertail forend to a t3x? If so, worth the $30?
http://www.berettausa.com/en-us/t3x-forend-complete-t3x-forend/s54067681/
http://www.berettausa.com/en-us/t3x-forend-complete-t3x-forend/s54067681/
I think it helps. It's a lot cheaper than a new stock.
I am running a stock pack on my CTR with low Badger rings and a LRHS 4.5-18. I have to take the pack off to remove the bolt.
I ordered a Predator a week and a half ago. I will let you know what I think when I get it. Their website says 4 weeks.
I just picked up a T3X CTR stainless in 6.5 creed...... Do I need to replace the factory rail with aftermarket to use a one piece mount? (nightforce, badger, spuhr ) Hoping for some solid advice on best one piece mount for this rifle and I read that removing the factory rail can be a pain.....
thanks
thanks
It really wasn't hard to remove on mine. Also depends on how much usable elevation your scope has and how far you plan to shoot. With a 20moa rail I was using 11mils at 1093yards.
I think the stock rail is 0 moa........ I was going to get a 1 piece 20 moa one piece mount...... I thought I read a post on here that said the spuhr one piece was one that fit the T3X rail the best? Locally I can only get to 1000 yd......so 8.8 mil. But with a 20 moa mount....should have no prob getting much further when I shoot out west.
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Raven, I kept the stock rail and bought Spuhr pic rail 30 moa mounts. I have a pipe dream of lobing a round to 1 mile and need 30moa to get there.
Spuhr does make sp (pic rail mount) and st (tikka/TRG) rail mounts. I chose the sp simply because I thought it would be easier to sell in he future. If you don't have that worry is use the Tikka/TRG mount and ditch the stock rail. IMO he Spuhr is the slickest setup out there.
If you need justification to spend the extra $ on a Spuhr. Think about it this way. You buy a good quality MOA rail and good rings you are approaching the cost of a Spuhr
Spuhr does make sp (pic rail mount) and st (tikka/TRG) rail mounts. I chose the sp simply because I thought it would be easier to sell in he future. If you don't have that worry is use the Tikka/TRG mount and ditch the stock rail. IMO he Spuhr is the slickest setup out there.
If you need justification to spend the extra $ on a Spuhr. Think about it this way. You buy a good quality MOA rail and good rings you are approaching the cost of a Spuhr
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I took the .308 CTR to the 1000yd range this past weekend. Love this gun. She was spot on out to 1000. Looking forward to rebarreling to a 6.5 some day.
Anyone try the MDT mags with the Tikka in a chassis? The modified magpul mags are no good, the shaving of the material weakens the lips such that if you barely bump the mag a few rounds will squirt out due to the spring pressure.Otherwise time to sack up for the metal mags
I used MDT .223 mags in a KRG X-Ray for a while. It took me a long time to get the chassis adjusted properly for the mags, but once I did it ran reasonably well.
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I used MDT .223 mags in a KRG X-Ray for a while. It took me a long time to get the chassis adjusted properly for the mags, but once I did it ran reasonably well.
Nice looking rifle!
I have an MPA Lite coming next week for my Tikka .223 Varmint and will also be using MDT mags. I am interested in hearing about what you had to do to get them to work.
With the X-Ray chassis the mag well is formed by forend on the front and sides and the trigger guard on the rear. Both pieces adjust slightly, front-and-back, to move the mag well forward or backward and to fine-tune the size. It took a fair bit of fussing with those adjustments, the trigger guard in particular, to get the magazine into optimal alignment with the Tikka action. In my case the issue was compounded by the fact that I did not know about the trigger guard being adjustable until Justin (KRG) was kind enough to post a response to one of my posts in the Tikka thread on the other site.
My T3x is 6.5CM with a XLR element chassis. The magpul mags interfere with the action itself however, so not the chassis's issue.
Might be of interest to some that Atlasworx have a new AI type dbm with a CTR footprint. We needed a floor plate that would take AICS type mags 223-308 and that would fit into our new stock which is made for the CTR mag system. Colin at Atlasworx was very forthcoming and we went through details. Great for those who have plenty AICS magazines already like myself.
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edi
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edi
My buddy just ordered one to try out. Looking forward to seeing it.
Just curious if you're still using the MDT 223 mags or if you have switched to Accurate Mag. I ask because I'm considering dropping my T3X 223 Varmint into the X-Ray Chassis.
I originally built that rifle as a dual purpose trainer/varmint buster. I found I was spending allot more time with it dispatching groundhogs than I was "training". In the mean time I also picked up a .243 Tikka so I ended up switching out the chassis on my .223 for a McM A3 inlet for the factory bottom metal and moving the X-Ray over to the .243, using AICS mags. If I'd have kept the .223 in the X-Ray I would've given the Accurate mags a try. I'd gotten the X-Ray adjusted to the point where the MDT mags performed acceptably but still not quite as well as I'd hoped and not as well as the factory mags and bottom metal combo.
Maybe, but I have been fitting all sorts of aftermarket AI type mag systems since ten years and many Atlasworx in the last five years on a daily basis and have yet to see one fail. Also important is to put them on scales, I would choose the lighter one. A lighter version that doesn't break is better than a heavier one that doesn't break. Price is also a factor as well as availability. We outside of the US have great difficulties getting US made products. From the rest of the world is much easier.
I recently weighed a few bits that can go on T3's if it interests someone.
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edi
Atlasworx makes good stuff. Curious if you checked out the CTR 5 round mag? They are listed on Brownells site but there are no specs as far as weight and size compared to the standard 10 round mag.
EDIT: I just found out that the tikka 5 round ctr mags are the same size as the 10 round, they're just modified with a block.
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Thanks for the response. How's the McM A3 working out for you? Notice any difference in accuracy compared to the X-Ray chassis?
I really like the A3 for my purpose, lighter and easier to maneuver around the family farm fields and woods. Plus I'm able to use the Tikka factory mags, which to me, seem to be the best option for a Tikka .223. BTW: I did ultimately upgrade the bottom metal to a Mountain Tactical aluminum BM, which I really like.
As far as accuracy versus the X-Ray, neither I, nor the groundhogs, have noticed any difference
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