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Tikka T3 Thread

New favorite shooting position
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The Bravo is great for the money, but I can see people being disappointed with it. The forend matchup, forend deformation when you bolt an ARCA rail to it, and flexible cheek riser bothered me.
 
Agreed with both of you. There is hands down nothing better for the money. They can be had on sale for $300 or less. Super customizable.

I could never get comfortable behind factory stocks.
 
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What is a used tikka t3 in a krg bravo, PVA 26” 223 barrel and a factory barrel re chambered in 223ai and cut to 16” worth?
 
What is a used tikka t3 in a krg bravo, PVA 26” 223 barrel and a factory barrel re chambered in 223ai and cut to 16” worth?
You cannot answer a question like this IMHO without a discussion about supply/demand and the build purpose. In general, 16 inch bolt guns seem to trade for less than 20inch barrels. Don't ask me why, but that seem to be the case in the px. I think lowlight mentioned this, usually 18inch is a better for re-sale, again for whatever reasons.
 
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This has both a 26” and a 16”. I just don’t have a good grasp on the tikka market. Don’t see as many as 700 clones.
 
It’s worth what the parts are worth.
Action about 600
26” barrel about 350
16” factory barrel 100
Bravo about 350

Total maybe 1400?
 
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Gave my Tikka a makeover for the 2023 PRS season. Osprey 1.20" straight barrel chambered by PVA in .308win. Took 2 sighters that were pretty much dead on, then shot these two groups with leftover ammo from last season that I loaded for my other barrel. Not too shabby. Time to load up some Atips.

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So today was supposed to be a happy day with my CTR putting it in a KRG Bravo and then swapping out the APA brake for an EC tuner brake, then hitting the range. I got the KRG Bravo that works with AICS mags on there, and life has taught me to test cycle some rounds before considering the job complete. As I was doing that, I noticed my rounds were nose diving into the action and not even hitting the feed lips. I'm wondering if I somehow screwed up mounting the rifle or what. I'm sure it's something I did since it seems like the entire internet has had good luck with a t3X CTR. All the AI pattern mags I've tried are actual AI mags. Two of them came with the stock and one is a mag that I've had for years that's never given me a hiccup.
 
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So today was supposed to be a happy day with my CTR putting it in a KRG Bravo and then swapping out the APA brake for an EC tuner brake, then hitting the range. I got the KRG Bravo that works with AICS mags on there, and life has taught me to test cycle some rounds before considering the job complete. As I was doing that, I noticed my rounds were nose diving into the action and not even hitting the feed lips. I'm wondering if I somehow screwed up mounting the rifle or what. I'm sure it's something I did since it seems like the entire internet has had good luck with a t3X CTR. All the AI pattern mags I've tried are actual AI mags. Two of them came with the stock and one is a mag that I've had for years that's never given me a hiccup.
I should also mention I looked at the KRG instructions and they said to remove a spring clip for the tikkas and unless I'm blind, I don't have one of those.
 

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I just bought a t3x light in 6.5cm, going to put a Mountain tactical picatinny on it, scope is a Zeiss v4 50mm objective. What rings should I buy and what height? I think mediums will catch it.
 
So today was supposed to be a happy day with my CTR putting it in a KRG Bravo and then swapping out the APA brake for an EC tuner brake, then hitting the range. I got the KRG Bravo that works with AICS mags on there, and life has taught me to test cycle some rounds before considering the job complete. As I was doing that, I noticed my rounds were nose diving into the action and not even hitting the feed lips. I'm wondering if I somehow screwed up mounting the rifle or what. I'm sure it's something I did since it seems like the entire internet has had good luck with a t3X CTR. All the AI pattern mags I've tried are actual AI mags. Two of them came with the stock and one is a mag that I've had for years that's never given me a hiccup.

Might want to call KRG tomorrow. I ordered a Bravo for my CTR but I’m going to use the CTR magazine.
 
I' not a pro shooter or a real long range guy, but since the CTR version of a Bravo costs the same as the AICS version, and the CTR mag allows way more OAL and seating into the lands, the reason for a Tikka CTR in a AICS mag stock is?
 
I' not a pro shooter or a real long range guy, but since the CTR version of a Bravo costs the same as the AICS version, and the CTR mag allows way more OAL and seating into the lands, the reason for a Tikka CTR in a AICS mag stock is?
Unless things have changed in the last couple years, the CTR and Binderless AICS mags allow for similar COAL. I can get 2.96" with MDT binderless AICS mags, which also work in my other non-tikka chassis rifles.
 
They're both good patterns of mags. I came across this stock lightly used for sale and was originally going to go with the CTR mag version, either will work..... or should anyway.
 
So today was supposed to be a happy day with my CTR putting it in a KRG Bravo and then swapping out the APA brake for an EC tuner brake, then hitting the range. I got the KRG Bravo that works with AICS mags on there, and life has taught me to test cycle some rounds before considering the job complete. As I was doing that, I noticed my rounds were nose diving into the action and not even hitting the feed lips. I'm wondering if I somehow screwed up mounting the rifle or what. I'm sure it's something I did since it seems like the entire internet has had good luck with a t3X CTR. All the AI pattern mags I've tried are actual AI mags. Two of them came with the stock and one is a mag that I've had for years that's never given me a hiccup.
Make sure the recoil lug is properly seated in the action, and the action is all the way down in the stock.

Check the feed lips on all of the magazines, make sure they are evenly spaced and similar to one another.
 
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So today was supposed to be a happy day with my CTR putting it in a KRG Bravo and then swapping out the APA brake for an EC tuner brake, then hitting the range. I got the KRG Bravo that works with AICS mags on there, and life has taught me to test cycle some rounds before considering the job complete. As I was doing that, I noticed my rounds were nose diving into the action and not even hitting the feed lips. I'm wondering if I somehow screwed up mounting the rifle or what. I'm sure it's something I did since it seems like the entire internet has had good luck with a t3X CTR. All the AI pattern mags I've tried are actual AI mags. Two of them came with the stock and one is a mag that I've had for years that's never given me a hiccup.

Did you find a resolution?
 
jaoutdoors sells various tikka actions. at a min you should be able to get a price close to that.
And on top of that, Wes is a great guy. Super helpful and very fast shipping in my experience. All the thumbs up for JAOutdoors.
 
What scope for my 308 24” CTR? Just use it for whacking steel, non competition.

A fixed 6 or fixed 10 like a SWFA or ??
How far is the steel?
I rarely get a chance to shoot at more than 300 meters, so could probably live with a fixed 6. I recently got a second hand fixed 10 S&B, but don't have a rifle for it yet.
 
With a good 20-24 mag scope you'll see bullet holes in paper at 300m maybe even to 400m with say12 mag you won't. I always found higher mag was helpful when testing things.
edi
 
Did you bought AICS magazine chassis, or is it the CTR version.
If it is CTR, AICS mags wont work on that.
ALSO check carefully, is the action right on the chassis, because the floating fron receiver bolt inside the chassis, it is bit pita to mount it correct.
And if it is not well mounted, it will give nose divers.
I use only MDT magazines, had no issues, unlike i did when used accurate magazines.
I have had a 223, 260, 6,5cm and 308.
 
I've used MTD mags (with a little sanding to fit the sides) in a CTR with no problems on the CTR bottom metal.

Never tried them on a CTR in a Bravo because my CTR Bravos use CTR mags.
 
Quick question on Tikka CTR fit in the Bravo chassis.

I installed barreled action, seated it on recoil lug and torqued action screws to 65 lbs. Are y’all seeing a similar gap between the barrel and chassis fore end?
 

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Quick question on Tikka CTR fit in the Bravo chassis.

I installed barreled action, seated it on recoil lug and torqued action screws to 65 lbs. Are y’all seeing a similar gap between the barrel and chassis fore end?
I don’t think you have it hitting the recoil lug properly. It can take some try’s to get the lug engaged in the action.
 
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I don’t think you have it hitting the recoil lug properly. It can take some try’s to get the lug engaged in the action.

It took me a couple tries to get it to the position it’s at now. I was very careful in my approach seating it on the lug and applying torque to the screws. Maybe it’s just me being OCD.
 
It took me a couple tries to get it to the position it’s at now. I was very careful in my approach seating it on the lug and applying torque to the screws. Maybe it’s just me being OCD.
Remove the bolt and check position of action screws with a torch into the action and rear easily visible. If these screws are not engaging almost to the top I would be very careful with 65inlb. It is only a wobbly M6 thread. I'd be running max 55inlb. Roughly 6nm.
If the front screw is way low it could mean lug is not engaged.
edi
 
Remove the bolt and check position of action screws with a torch into the action and rear easily visible. If these screws are not engaging almost to the top I would be very careful with 65inlb. It is only a wobbly M6 thread. I'd be running max 55inlb. Roughly 6nm.
If the front screw is way low it could mean lug is not engaged.
edi

In this case, torch = flashlight. I would not recommend checking with a blowtorch or flame. :)
 
A
I have two different stocks (greyboe phoenix and Boyd’s varmint) and I have to use a shim under the front of the factory T3x bottom plastic so the mags will snap in place. Have anyone else had to do this? Would one of the aftermarket bottom metals fix this problem? Could someone measure they’re aftermarket bottom to see if there are any variations?
Anyone?
 
Remove the bolt and check position of action screws with a torch into the action and rear easily visible. If these screws are not engaging almost to the top I would be very careful with 65inlb. It is only a wobbly M6 thread. I'd be running max 55inlb. Roughly 6nm.
If the front screw is way low it could mean lug is not engaged.
edi

I confirmed both action screws are fully seated in threads. I’m good. I’m just not used to such a larger opening around the barrel. This is my first chassis.
 
Getting the bug to build my Tikka into an NRL Hunter rig (open-light)... Thinking Grayboe Phoenix for the stock... I'll need to either pickup CTR or AICS (MountainTactical) bottom metal. I already have some nice AICS mags for my PRS gun, but the compact CTR mags seem appealing both on a bag and the belt - I've never used CTR mags though. Which way to go?
I have two of the MT CTR inlet for AICS mags and the CTR mags feed smoother to me. I used them for an NRL match, they are shorter and don't get in the way.