They are easy to add, just epoxy the Tee nuts into place in the recesses in the stock, Tee Nuts are easy to cut / grind to fit.
Yes, the radiused rail will work with all.
Not sure about the CTR and Varmint, but the Super Varmint stock has four bolts on the bottom. However, three of those are nearer the muzzle (I’m including the sling stud). In other words, not evenly spaced. Probably need one more near the magwell.
If you’re going flat back rail and not radiused, the Henderson rail has a more refined bolt-to-rail interface FWIW. It uses what seems to be proprietary little washers to take out any potential slack/slippage.
Exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks @RonSwanson_ParkRanger for the pics and thanks all for the info.
Thanks @RonSwanson_ParkRanger for the pics and thanks all for the info.
Look at the xlr c6 buttstock. It comes in short or long (fold vs fixed). I wouldn’t get a magpul prs, it would be ass heavy and too long probably since the tac a1 has the integrated folder. You honestly are gonna be good with either an mdt or xlr c6.
Also something to consider, you are gonna be spending 300-400 to swap out the buttstock. You could sell the chassis and then use that 300-400 additional to get a complete chassis. I agree the whiskey 3 would fit what you are looking for and is one of my favorites. (I have a folder gen6 I just listed in the px)
Much appreciated
Visually, I'm partial to enclosed forends and the Tac A1 checks that box. To get that with the W3 (and keep my folding ability), I'm looking at $1500. Assuming I don't run into problems with the CTR mags, I'll probably be good with just swapping the buttstock.
Edit: Of course your folder for sale has the enclosed forend... damn you
This was a purposeful "downgrade" (no slight intended) from an AI to free up some cash. If I turn around and dump all that cash back into the Tikka, it'll kinda defeat the purpose of the swap.
My other potential concern is my EraTac 1.36" (0MOA) mount. My TT 5-25x56 BARELY cleared the forend rail on my AX so I'm interested to see if it'll clear the A1 rail or if I'm also gonna be dropping some coin on a new mount. The A1 is coming with an EGW 30MOA rail so we shall see.
Also regarding the action rail, I understand that's generally needed for a potential buyer of the A1 chassis, should I choose the part with it. In that case, I'd probably throw the Tikka in a Tac 21 chassis (partial to my enclosed forends
) since I'd need to go rail-less for that one anyways. Realizing I'd be trading my folding stock for a "quick release" stock, seems like cleaning would be easy enough.Ramblings over... Have a merry Christmas everyone!
As a follow up:
The girlfriend loves how “Her Rifle” turned out.
I zeroed the rifle this morning in 20 degree weather and shot a sub 3/8” 6 shot group at 100 yards in switchy 7mph cross winds
with Norma Gold Target ammo
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Which model number is the spuhr?
@Lawnboi: what height are you using on those Spuhrs?
The hunting model (which I no longer own) was a 1.18” 30mm mount. Any heavier or a barrel and it wouldn’t have cleared a 50mm scope bell. Factory lite contour fwiw.
The other is a 1.37”, 30mm with 7mils of cant. Iv now got two of those both with nx8s in them. They fit any barrel contour Iv used including ones with 1.25” diameter shanks. Really like the full size spuhr. They have been good to me.
Thanks. I'm considering going the 34 mm high (about 1.34 in) direct to a T3X rail, Superlite barrel, 56 mm objective scope (the Minox XP5 with THLR reticle that Form has been testing on the Slide) - hoping for about a 10lb hunting/field set-up all up ... the Sphur hunting mount ends up being about 40 g / 1.4 oz lighter than a rail plus NF Ultralights, and about $100-200 cheaper in my dollars - and mounts directly to the receiver. So unless there's any inherent design issue with the Spuhrs (for example, having the diagonal split), then they're looking like a good option - especially as they still have a moveable recoil pin.
Much appreciated
Visually, I'm partial to enclosed forends and the Tac A1 checks that box. To get that with the W3 (and keep my folding ability), I'm looking at $1500. Assuming I don't run into problems with the CTR mags, I'll probably be good with just swapping the buttstock.
Edit: Of course your folder for sale has the enclosed forend... damn you
This was a purposeful "downgrade" (no slight intended) from an AI to free up some cash. If I turn around and dump all that cash back into the Tikka, it'll kinda defeat the purpose of the swap.
My other potential concern is my EraTac 1.36" (0MOA) mount. My TT 5-25x56 BARELY cleared the forend rail on my AX so I'm interested to see if it'll clear the A1 rail or if I'm also gonna be dropping some coin on a new mount. The A1 is coming with an EGW 30MOA rail so we shall see.
Also regarding the action rail, I understand that's generally needed for a potential buyer of the A1 chassis, should I choose the part with it. In that case, I'd probably throw the Tikka in a Tac 21 chassis (partial to my enclosed forends
Ramblings over... Have a merry Christmas everyone!
If you're at $1500 and wanting quick LOP, enclosed forend, and a folding stock...the SICS is worth a look. Keep an eye on mile high, they run $1699-1799 on them for holidays sales and stuff.
The only downside of the mount on a bigger scope is ring spacing. Besides that Iv been impressed with the mounts, both the hunting series and the bigger ones.
Not too much wiggle room on the recoil lug either, it’s pretty much a set it in the furthest back configuration and adjust the scope as needed.
I was going to try to get a 7-35 atacr for my game gun and put it in the tactical 34mm direct mount but that probably won’t be happening anytime soon.
I think this is the best option (direct to the integral rail) on a tikka. If I were to do otherwise I’d epoxy a factory pinned rail on like tikka does.
Just a plain T3X in 6.5 Creed and a Minox Optika 5 2-10 were under the tree for me this morning.
Just waiting on the Talley’s to arrive and some ammo and we will see how she shoots.
Twin toddlers lolLet me guess. You have a toddler as well?
Me too. Seems more common than I'd have thought before we had them.
So after reading a ton on hear about how hard it was to remove a barrel I just completed it this morning. It came off way easier than I thought.
I used a viper vise, wheeler action wrench jaws flipped to the flat part, and 3lb sledge hammer, table is bolted to wall and is very sturdy.
1. Put a foam ear plug in the chamber and filled up with kroil in the action let it set overnight.
2. Tightened the shit out the the barrel on the vise. Used a paper towel roll to help grip the barrel and keep it from marring.
3. Tightened the action wrench slightly behind where the thread stop on the receiver.
4. Three hits with the sledge hammer on the handle action swings loose.
Maybe I got lucky but I wonder if people are not tightening the vise down enough and making sure everything is very solid “vise, table, wrench” before trying to remove the barrel. I was ready to put a torch on it and use freeze spray but did not need to.
Merry Christmas
I used a viper vise, wheeler action wrench jaws flipped to the flat part, and 3lb sledge hammer, table is bolted to wall and is very sturdy.
1. Put a foam ear plug in the chamber and filled up with kroil in the action let it set overnight.
2. Tightened the shit out the the barrel on the vise. Used a paper towel roll to help grip the barrel and keep it from marring.
3. Tightened the action wrench slightly behind where the thread stop on the receiver.
4. Three hits with the sledge hammer on the handle action swings loose.
Maybe I got lucky but I wonder if people are not tightening the vise down enough and making sure everything is very solid “vise, table, wrench” before trying to remove the barrel. I was ready to put a torch on it and use freeze spray but did not need to.
Merry Christmas
Attachments
A solid "Bump" with an 8lbs. sledge loosened the 30/06 barrel from the action on my last barrel change.
Hey all,
This may sound odd !!
But I am looking at moving from tac chassis to hunting stock (just for few months !)
Anyone done that or recommendations ?
I have Tac A1 in 6.5 CM and very happy with it. However just for hunting season and some classic looks, wanting to get a light weight wood/ polymer stock for it.
This may sound odd !!
But I am looking at moving from tac chassis to hunting stock (just for few months !)
Anyone done that or recommendations ?
I have Tac A1 in 6.5 CM and very happy with it. However just for hunting season and some classic looks, wanting to get a light weight wood/ polymer stock for it.
Thanks…. I did consider that option, but was hesitant to add one more gun to my safe. But haven’t completely ruled that out.
Reuby, your nails look exquisite
Seeing those gates up brought back some fond memories . A new Tikka rifle and scope is great, having twin toddlers to share xmas with is priceless. Congrats !
I think those pins come out. Ive owned a few tacA1 chassis and sold a few more, but I've never put a T3 in one. Anyone else remember if the pins come out, or am I crazy? I seem to remember they were loctited, or a pain to remove for some reason.
In the A1 chassis you will only be able to single feed. You will need something that either takes factory T3x magazines or a long action stock/chassis
@TheBigCountry and @gunjunkie45 you guys are slacking, my wife and I survived triplet boys!! They are 23 now, but the first 6 months were a blur.
Wow those are sweet. Where did you get those stocks at.
First six months? I lost track of the last 17 months!!!
You can get the bolt face opened up. A guy in England opened up a .308 Tac A1 to magnum. I think SAUM so it feeds.
Why wouldn’t you just buy a new bolt from LRI? Can’t imagine it’d be drastically different cost-wise.
That's what I did for my 7PRC. LA bolt stop and bought a bolt from LRI. Using 300WM MDT mags (3.56") in a HNT26 chassis. Works great.
Apologies if this has been posted before, but ...
I was cruising the Tikka Selector tool, thinking over options, and noticed that the new Super Varmint ... has a two-stage trigger:
Tungsten Ceracote, enlarged bolt handle, Pic rail, heavy varmint profile barrel (choice of 20 or 24" for 6.5 Creed), and 5/8-24 threaded ... Could be a great option for a barrelled action!
(Especially as Tikka are currently only showing three models as having a two-stage trigger - the Super Varmint, Arctic, and Tact A1 - and the second two of those are clearly specialised platforms/not the best candidates for aftermarket stocks.)
And, zooming in, it *almost* looks as if the Pic rail is integral on the Super Varmint. I can't tell for sure, but that would just add to the goodness...
Lots of cartridges available; here's the specs on the two 6.5 Creed models:
Complete list of cartridges available is here: https://choose.tikka.fi/usa/tikka/t3x-super-varmint
Overview of the model is here: https://www.tikka.fi/en-us/rifles/tikka-t3x/t3x-super-varmint
Tikka's video is here: - this gives more info than the web pages, as well as a better visual look at some of the features.
I was cruising the Tikka Selector tool, thinking over options, and noticed that the new Super Varmint ... has a two-stage trigger:
Tungsten Ceracote, enlarged bolt handle, Pic rail, heavy varmint profile barrel (choice of 20 or 24" for 6.5 Creed), and 5/8-24 threaded ... Could be a great option for a barrelled action!
(Especially as Tikka are currently only showing three models as having a two-stage trigger - the Super Varmint, Arctic, and Tact A1 - and the second two of those are clearly specialised platforms/not the best candidates for aftermarket stocks.)
And, zooming in, it *almost* looks as if the Pic rail is integral on the Super Varmint. I can't tell for sure, but that would just add to the goodness...
Lots of cartridges available; here's the specs on the two 6.5 Creed models:
Complete list of cartridges available is here: https://choose.tikka.fi/usa/tikka/t3x-super-varmint
Overview of the model is here: https://www.tikka.fi/en-us/rifles/tikka-t3x/t3x-super-varmint
Tikka's video is here: - this gives more info than the web pages, as well as a better visual look at some of the features.
I believe that he meant "Included" or "Installed" rather than "Integral" to the action.
Someone needs to make an AICS bottom metal that works with the Varmint model inlets.
Thanks for confirming this! Like I said in my original post, it was hard to tell from their photo online.
Would it not work to drop this into a KRG chassis?
It would, but KRG is not the answer to everything. Personally I can’t stand them. I’m also of the belief that factory Tikka stocks are more than capable as they come from the factory, with the exception of the mags and retention systems.
AtlasWorx DBM w/ AICS mags in the factory CTR stock is a great setup. Just saying the Varmint/Super Varmint variants would benefit from the same offering.
Interesting ... what chassis would see as a good option for the Super Varmint that would aid with recoil reduction on a 300WM?
It’s all preference… not to mention recoil mitigation alone has little to do with the chassis itself. Obviously you need good ergos and fit so that you the shooter can control it, but weight, balance, brake, etc. will all have more of an effect on recoil than simply swapping out to a chassis would.
My preference is XLR for what it’s worth, but again, that’s just what works best for me.
All that said, my original point was that I think most guys discount how solid the factory Tikka CTR/Varmint stocks really are in favor of just dropping them into a Bravo or something.
My brother's varmint ba in 6.5 cm is the shootinest factory rifle I have ever seen. Holes in holes with handloads. It is in a bravo and it feels really good there, although a tad barrel heavy with the 24 inch factory tube. If I was after a barreled action in a Tikka, instead of just a receiver that's a very promising proposition. I agree that the factory stock works very well for the weight, but running the plastic fantastic next to aftermarket stocks and chassis setups I do think the right aftermarket stock/chassis option to fit the shooter will help, in addition to the things you mentioned, with driving the rifle better.
There was a company from Norway making a rail that bolted on but also slid onto the dovetail rail. It looked amazing. Sadly they folded. No one had picked up the mantle.
Maybe something Near could look into as they make the Sako 75/85 rails that slip on the dovetails.
Maybe something Near could look into as they make the Sako 75/85 rails that slip on the dovetails.
I just recently bought a Tikka T3X Tac A1 and also just backordered a Q Trash Panda for it. I am an absolute noob when it comes to suppressors so I apologize for any stupid questions here but do the compensators that come with the Q Trash Panda adapt the suppressor itself to the barrel? My Tikka is a 6.5 Creedmoor and the Trash Panda is rated for 7.62.
