Wildcat moderators (UK) have adapters at the rear that you can swap out for different barrel diameters. I like the reflex design to reduce length, being able to dismantle them for cleaning is very handy too.
I'd be interested to see how much reflex volume it takes to equal the performance of just one more baffle. I talked to AB a couple of years ago about additional reflexes and they said the can is submitted to the ATF specific to the reflex you opt for during purchase.
HOW can you have a name and picture as an ode to Ron Swanson and not be able to take off a Tikka barrel?!?
Ron is so disappointed.
Ron is so disappointed.
I'm sure Ron would... and I see you posted 6 of yours have been cake. Neither of mine are budging, and that plus the sporter lite barrels being a huge PITA to not have slip means its much easier for me to pay a smith (my guns are 10 yrs old, re: your hypothesis the new ones might be easier).
I also know every time this topic comes up a few people come out of the woodwork saying it was super easy for them and the rest of the internet that has trouble are idiots.
I should have been smarter than to post a simple request for first hand experience with a gunsmith on a gun forum.
I use a toilet paper cardboard roll around the barrel to help gription.
Until I started using a breaker bar to help tighten the barrel clamp (actuall, a big ass socket handle and a 48” iron pipe) the barrels still slipped
Until I started using a breaker bar to help tighten the barrel clamp (actuall, a big ass socket handle and a 48” iron pipe) the barrels still slipped
Toilet paper roll didn’t work for me, but tightening the ever luvin’ shit outta the vise worked, and a piece of leather made it easier. I definitely saw my SAC modular vise flex, and thought of (again) the motorcycle mantra, “steel is real.”
Steel (or ductile cast iron) vises are the real deal. Aluminum versions are much lighter duty…I mean, my SAC is swell for normal torque values but christ, the Tikka gorillas
really pushed my SAC to its limits.
Has anyone used the AR stock adapter for their ACE yet? Looking for pictures of it installed. Thinking about putting an mdt stock on an ace since the oem one doesn't really seem that good imo
And done.. for now! The stippling idea got tossed for quick and cheap using grip tape, and finished it off with some reverse multicam black-ish Cerakote. Its no @Hennig work of art but certainly wont get lost in the rack. Its still a shooter with 108 ELD-M's it would seem, for a tube almost near its midlife.
Here is one that started life as a T3 in .243, toasted the barrel around 1600-1700 rounds.
6mm Creed, Osprey (non-prefit) 3b, 1-7" finished at 19", threw it in a Peak 44 Bastion. Ended up painting the barrel and adding some texture to the grip and forearm.
6mm Creed, Osprey (non-prefit) 3b, 1-7" finished at 19", threw it in a Peak 44 Bastion. Ended up painting the barrel and adding some texture to the grip and forearm.
Mate for the money its pretty good for a chinesium OEM scope. Good solid turret adjustments, tracks, good versatile reticle for holds. my only gripes are that the Magnification adjustment is very stiff, and it has a bot of CA at 16x in bright sunlight. But for a budget rig it fits the bill.
THE world most accurate Tikka T3 SS Varmint .260Rem 
Factory SS barel 23,5" 18x1 thread, old was gay 5/8x24, it is not good if shooting a lot with the can on, muzzle brake not the issue, but with the can it is.
Handloaded ammo.
123gr Scenar & VV N160 46gr.
6 x 5 shot´s like one row.
Average 0.365MOA.
I did clean the barrel in to a mirrow with Thorroclean and start shooting.
Factory SS barel 23,5" 18x1 thread, old was gay 5/8x24, it is not good if shooting a lot with the can on, muzzle brake not the issue, but with the can it is.
Handloaded ammo.
123gr Scenar & VV N160 46gr.
6 x 5 shot´s like one row.
Average 0.365MOA.
I did clean the barrel in to a mirrow with Thorroclean and start shooting.
THE world most accurate Tikka T3 SS Varmint .260Rem
Factory SS barel 23,5" 18x1 thread, old was gay 5/8x24, it is not good if shooting a lot with the can on, muzzle brake not the issue, but with the can it is.
Handloaded ammo.
123gr Scenar & VV N160 46gr.
6 x 5 shot´s like one row.
Average 0.365MOA.
I did clean the barrel in to a mirrow with Thorroclean and start shooting.
You’re using some little pic rail mounted fan?
Yes sir.
Brushless fan from temu and diy mount, it does work very well, but i would need that to hold the spot that i turn the fan, not it is not doing the job so well, but it has so much power, that it will move air so well, that it is not that finicky.
I did clean the barrel, everyting out of there and put it in to a mirror.
So the first 5-round was not the average, but after that it did start doing one hole.
I am not sure is that spiral fluting the reason, that when it is hot, it start shiting the poi, or is it just that it is a factory barrel, not sure.
But how many is shooting that much at once, i was doing a test how it works after the clean barrel and new threads on the muzzle.
I CAN SAY, that it would not work like that if there would been that old 5/8x24 thread.
18x1 is +30% more surface area than 5/8x24, and i say that this threading is s..t when using a suppressor and shooting a lot with the can on at once.
I had all my barrels swapped from 5/8x24 in to a 18x1 and i couldn´t be happier.
I'm not quite understanding the issue you've had with the threads. My two Tac A1's shoot fine with a suppressor and factory threads. I do use some PTFE tape on the threads though.
Lh hnt26 now available for lefty T3x SA. Also 700 LA but who cares?
Both of my Tikka hunting rifles are in Bravos, but I have to admit this makes me tempted to try a HNT26 even though I think they're ugly. I've also considered a Manners LRH-TK, but with all of the talk about the grip-to-trigger distance on the Manners I'm not sure if I'd like that or not.
Well the muzzle end get´s hot when using a suppressor, and the 5/8x24 thread is quite thin thread, so when really do shoot with your rifle, the POI can start shifting in some point, because the barrel end is opening just a hair, but that´s enough.
So if use 18x1, the muzzle end is 30% more material on it, so it wont open as much.
Do you understand it now?
If not, do this test.
The more material you have aroung the bullet hole in the barrel, the better it can handle the heat.
With a muzzle brake this is not a problem, but when shooting with the suppressor, that takes the heat and keep it, it will create a problems, but only if you do really shoot a lot.
5 rounds set and go to the paper to see the impacts, and walk back, it´s not an issue.
But shoot 2-3 5-10 rounds and let the can heat up, it will show the POI with a thinner threaded barrel and suppressor.
