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Tikka T3 Thread

I have an older model Tikka T3 CTR in .223 1/8 twist with the older style plastic magazines which I hate. Anyone here have a similar rifle and use the Gen2 Billet Magazine form Mountain Tactical? If so what are your thoughts would you buy another one?

I believe MT's metal magazines are replacements for the factory single stack magazines, not the double stack single feed CTR magazines. Is yours a tactical model with the single stack magazines?
 
17.5" Proof in 6x45
Athlon Ares BTR 2.5-15
Talley rings
KRG Bravo
Nelson 12" arca rail
Glades bolt knob
MDT mag
With the Ultra 7, it's 10.5lbs. I'll pick up a lighter stock and scope at some point. Used an AR bolt catch spring to get the trigger pull under a pound. Cost $.40 and didn't spend $9 in shipping. Fires 55gr Varmageddon at 3125fps. Should do well on critters.


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Looks like a great handy hunting rifle.
 
From an ugly creature, to a beautiful beast.
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Tikka Carbon Six barrels...

Who has one?
Whos happy?

I've got a Manners stock that is inletting for Rem Varmint, and the Carbon Six Sendero contour seem like it will be the best match for my stock.

Buy from Carbon Six with confidence?
 
Tikka Carbon Six barrels...

Who has one?
Whos happy?

I've got a Manners stock that is inletting for Rem Varmint, and the Carbon Six Sendero contour seem like it will be the best match for my stock.

Buy from Carbon Six with confidence?
Absolutely, Gene @CarbonSix builds one hell of a nice barrel.
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GRS guys: My donor rifle was a Tac A1. Just curious if your happy with your accuracy in your non-bedded GRS stocks and what torque you tightened your two screws down to.
 
GRS guys: My donor rifle was a Tac A1. Just curious if your happy with your accuracy in your non-bedded GRS stocks and what torque you tightened your two screws down to.
Tightened mine to ~62in-lbs. Have not shot it since mounting the GRS - finally got a torque driver last weekend.
 
Torque specs are 46 inch pounds for all screws on Bifrost.
The difference with new stock is noticeable.
Money well spent.
Wheeler torque driver, magic.
 
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Torque specs are 46 inch pounds for all screws on Bifrost.
The difference with new stock is noticeable.
Money well spent.
Wheeler torque driver, magic.
Uh-oh. Here I thought only the bolt/receiver interface was an issue so followed Tikka’s torque spec. Will adjust mine this evening. Has not been fired or even bore-sighted yet.
 
Have a Tac A1, want to lighten it up by replacing the chassis. Who has the lightest folding stock chassis for the buck spent?
Thanks
 
Uh-oh. Here I thought only the bolt/receiver interface was an issue so followed Tikka’s torque spec. Will adjust mine this evening. Has not been fired or even bore-sighted yet.
Just got this response from GRS: “Try the Tikka recommended first, if this doesn’t give a satisficing accuracy, I would try settings in between 5.2N-m to 7N-m.”

7N-m is the Tikka number and the 5.2N-m is what’s in the GRS manual. So if my groupings are off, I will back off the torque (counterintuitive to me, but I am newby defined)
 
Just got this response from GRS: “Try the Tikka recommended first, if this doesn’t give a satisficing accuracy, I would try settings in between 5.2N-m to 7N-m.”

7N-m is the Tikka number and the 5.2N-m is what’s in the GRS manual. So if my groupings are off, I will back off the torque (counterintuitive to me, but I am newby defined)
62 lbs. just seems rather high since the GRS stock has no aluminum bedding, only fiberglass mating up to metal.
When I get home I am gonna have a look at the CtR stock. I don’t think it had any aluminum in it but I’d don’t remember if I even paid attention. All I did was snug it up and waited for my buddy to bring a torque driver. I finally caved and bought one last week. Now it’s tight but I may be taking it out and reinstalling it.
 
When I get home I am gonna have a look at the CtR stock. I don’t think it had any aluminum in it but I’d don’t remember if I even paid attention. All I did was snug it up and waited for my buddy to bring a torque driver. I finally caved and bought one last week. Now it’s tight but I may be taking it out and reinstalling it.
Okay, got home and pulled the original Tikka CTR stock out. It's plastic except for the brass insert anchors for the sling mounts. The receiver mount screws go through plastic only. This is my first centerfire rifle (i have a couple PCCs and a couple rifle caliber pistols (AR 300AAC and Galil X39)) so am fresh from the turnip truck. I don't know how torque affects repeatability. I understand how barrel deflection and harmonics can impact it. Can a higher torque rating cause problems if it is at the receiver's recommended setting? I did not use Loctite because I believe the lubricating affect of loctite means you must decrease the torque or risk bolt/thread damage. I won't be shooting this weekend and don't mind taking it apart to correct any errors. Fresh, unfired Tikka CTR 6.5CM 24" in a GRS Bifrost, torqued to Tikka's specified ~62in-lb. GRS specifies 46in-lb (thanks for that tidbit @GrumpyOleFart). Pic for attention.
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@ElFuego
It's a dream to use.
The weight forward combined with action is perfect.
Recoil is minimal, and feels like a crisp "tap" to your shoulder.
What scope is that on your rifle?
It's a Strike Eagle 5-25x56 MRad. I was this close to a $1200 Athlon and got this on sale at Dicks and they even gave me an extra $100 off because I was polite when I talked to them for clarification of if it was MOA or MRad (they couldn't tell). I paid $529. Couldn't say no to that.
 
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It's a Strike Eagle 5-25x56 MRad. I was this close to a $1200 Athlon and got this on sale at Dicks and they even gave me an extra $100 off because I was polite when I talked to them for clarification of if it was MOA or MRad (they couldn't tell). I paid $529. Couldn't say no to that.
Milliradians is a good choice.
Easier in metric.👍
 
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Milliradians is a good choice.
Easier in metric.👍
Easier in everything.

1mil = 1 'unit' @ 1000 'units'.

Insert whatever the heck you want into 'unit'.

Light years, miles, yards, thousandths, inches, squirrel balls, car length, shoe length, hair diameter, Lowlight height, dick length, etc.
 
I’ve got a Tikka T3 Varmint in 223. After dry firing, the bolt has a ton of resistance to open it. Anyone else have this issue?
Have you shot other bolt actions with shorter throws? With a shorter throw bolt action you have to cam the lugs over a shorter angle and thus requires more force. So the throw would feel stiffer than a 90* gun.
 
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Anyone have the weight of the stock Tac A1 Chassis?
Trying to figure out if I should get the xlr magnesium Chassis.
 
Anyone have the weight of the stock Tac A1 Chassis?
Trying to figure out if I should get the xlr magnesium Chassis.
Check out the new MDT HNT26 Chassis system if you are wanting lightweight.

 
I can only shoot up to 350 yards on winter on this sand pit.
Though, 400 is max in summer.
I wish i had longer range to shoot, but there are none.
My friend family own this place, and one other pit where hi lives, there i can go up to 800, but only in summer and when
my friend is not in work.
 
Check out the new MDT HNT26 Chassis system if you are wanting lightweight.

Are there any 3rd options for a tikka long action in MDTs chassis? They are apparently a custom 3.560" mag. This would be my first choice of stock for a lightweight 7Saum build if they had a flush lightweight mag
 
I’ve got a Tikka T3 Varmint in 223. After dry firing, the bolt has a ton of resistance to open it. Anyone else have this issue?
Remove and inspect the inside of your bolt shroud. Mine is starting to take some material off on the inside. A small amount of bolt grease has helped. *I am not a gunsmith so maybe someone with a lot more knowledge could chime in.
 
Or get this hand guard with the bipod built in.



Replying to an old post here, but has anyone used the BLK LBL forend on their TAC A1?

Apologies if this has been discussed, but the search results feature is returning a string of broken links for me at the moment ...
 
Replying to an old post here, but has anyone used the BLK LBL forend on their TAC A1?

Apologies if this has been discussed, but the search results feature is returning a string of broken links for me at the moment ...
Don't really remember it being discussed much. I haven't used one or seen one in person myself.

The company seems like a good one from what I've seen and they seem to keep innovating. Saw this video on one they did for the mdr by inrangetv.

Personally I would prefer a dedicated bipod with a good mount. I've got an atlas bipod with the really right stuff lever release and it does great. Another benefit is it can be moved to any of my other guns that have arca or picatinny.

Go with any quality oem not knockoff bipod on a good mount and you will do great. Harris at the lowest. Atlas, thunderbeast, cyke, elite iron, or the like just go for what you want.
 
Re GRS Bifrost stock, I cut away the lower inlet for an AICS mag bottom metal, just a trim really, then drilled the action bolt holes to allow me to press fit alloy reinforcements for the stock screws & used my stainless set from the old stock. Its snug as snug can be 👍
 
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Easier in everything.

1mil = 1 'unit' @ 1000 'units'.

Insert whatever the heck you want into 'unit'.

Light years, miles, yards, thousandths, inches, squirrel balls, car length, shoe length, hair diameter, Lowlight height, dick length, etc.
Err insert 1m at 1000m angle is a Milliradian. Milli being the metric term for 1000th. As in 1000mm in a metre, 1000m in a Kilometer.