Went out this weekend and bought a Tikka T3x lite in a 6.5 Creedmoor and bought the Warne rings that mount on the receivers dovetail leveled and mounted a Nikon buckmaster 3-9 on it torqued it down to 25in lbs was using a sand bag to rest the front of gun and for the life of me couldn’t get it under 2.5” groups using factor Hornady 147 eldms other ammo at hand was factory Sig Sauer 120gr
Tikka T3x lite need help
- Thread starter Remmy58
- Start date
i'd either look at you or the scope/rings first based on experience and the reputation of tikka, even with the smaller barrels on the lite models
have you confirmed the barrel isn't making contact with the stock?
have you confirmed the barrel isn't making contact with the stock?
the dollar bill I used went 3/4 of the way up and got pinched rifle was shoot first by my fiancé and then a friend and lastly me and we all had the same result checked torque on rings and they were tight but I just don’t feel comfortable with that small pin acting as a recoil lug
This is a frustrating issue since all I’ve heard and read have been nothing but good feedback on the tikka guns
This is a frustrating issue since all I’ve heard and read have been nothing but good feedback on the tikka guns
Check the torque on your action scews.
Run them at 45 inch pounds a see if that helps.
If not start backing them off to 40 and 35 until you find the sweet spot.
Sometimes you will find a difference of 5 inch pounds between the front and back screws will hit that spot.
For example 40 on the front and 45 on the back or vice versa......
Run them at 45 inch pounds a see if that helps.
If not start backing them off to 40 and 35 until you find the sweet spot.
Sometimes you will find a difference of 5 inch pounds between the front and back screws will hit that spot.
For example 40 on the front and 45 on the back or vice versa......
Don't do anything to alter the barreled action or stock. It will void the warranty if you do. If you have to send the rifle back they will not fix it. I have worked on around 40 tikka's in the last 3 years and have only had one rifle that would not shoot. Most of them the scopes were mounted straight to the receiver with warne rings. Try different ammo and a different scope and if it don't shoot send it back.
Seriously they void warranty if you modify the stock?! What if you put it in a different stock?
The stock is designed to contact the barrel a few inches in front of the action. I wouldn't modify it until you know it's not the scope/rings. Also if you took the action out of the stock to look at the lug, make sure it's seated properly in the channel when you put it back.
Absolutely no way I would leave the stock contacting the barrel. I have owned 3 Tikkas. Had to dremel/sand the stock on all of them, and all of them shot sub-MOA once I was done, both with factory ammo and handloads. All 3 shot better after fixing the stock than before.
Fix the stock contact issue, buy a pic rail or DNZ one-piece to mount the scope, and it should shoot fine. If it doesn't, try a different scope. If it still doesn't, try 140 ELD-M ammo. If it still doesn't, send it to Tikka (I would be floored if you make it this far).
My guess is the rings/base causing the issue. I used to not listen to folks who said to buy quality rings/base, and I didn't realize that I eventually paid the price for it. I don't necessarily go buy expensive stuff now, but I do stick to well-made, medium priced components or I'll just go drop the coin on the good stuff.
Fix the stock contact issue, buy a pic rail or DNZ one-piece to mount the scope, and it should shoot fine. If it doesn't, try a different scope. If it still doesn't, try 140 ELD-M ammo. If it still doesn't, send it to Tikka (I would be floored if you make it this far).
My guess is the rings/base causing the issue. I used to not listen to folks who said to buy quality rings/base, and I didn't realize that I eventually paid the price for it. I don't necessarily go buy expensive stuff now, but I do stick to well-made, medium priced components or I'll just go drop the coin on the good stuff.
Well, there are a few Tikkas out there known to shoot better than 2.5 moa without taking a dremel to the stock. What could go wrong with dovetail-mounted vertically splIt rings and a buckmaster scope though.
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I bought the Warne rings for the dove tail because a fellow tikka shooter said it’s what most use since it’s just a hunting rigs for 300 yards and under I have ordered a box of Hornady 140 eldms a box of the 129sst and a box of the Winchester 125 deer season xp to try out this weekend
I use to have a buck masters on my Remington 700 best group I could get was right at 1” bought a nightforce shv ( which I know is the entry level) but the best I can group with that is 5/8” of an inch but I’m willing to go spend the unnecessary money on some 30mm rings and try the nightforce on it to see what it will do
That gun should shoot sub-MOA with good factory ammo, without a doubt. If you move over the SHV and can't put 3 shots within 1" (possibly excluding cold bore), then I'd still sand the stock down.
Also, I believe I've heard that if you send it in, Tikka tests their accuracy guarantee with the barreled action in a vice, not with the stock on the rifle. So dremeling the stock and sanding to eliminate contact really shouldn't have any negative impact on accuracy as far as the warranty is concerned. But I have no first-hand experience of sending a Tikka into customer service for warranty work related to accuracy that can verify that. It's just a logical deduction, but companies don't always take logic as currency...
Also, I believe I've heard that if you send it in, Tikka tests their accuracy guarantee with the barreled action in a vice, not with the stock on the rifle. So dremeling the stock and sanding to eliminate contact really shouldn't have any negative impact on accuracy as far as the warranty is concerned. But I have no first-hand experience of sending a Tikka into customer service for warranty work related to accuracy that can verify that. It's just a logical deduction, but companies don't always take logic as currency...
Rings/scope would be the first variable I’d eliminate. Never seen a Tikka that wouldn’t shoot out of the box.
I totally get not spending more than necessary but more often than not you end up spending more than you needed to after you have to replace marginal parts. Talley rings or EGW base and decent pic rings not very expensive.
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