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Suppressors Tirant 45 problem

gunfreak101

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 18, 2010
240
0
49
Alabama,
I think well I know I had a baffle strike today and can I get new baffles for my tirant anybody know what my first step should be?
 
No but it was the first time I shot it wet I added five cc's of water and shook it and shot 2 mags through it checked it.
 
Wet doesn't matter. 5cc or more doesn't matter...more makes it louder. Coming loose, cross
Thread, squibs, or better yet, an end cap NOT tightened all the way...now those things will
Get you the result of a strike.

Sorry to hear it by the way. Love mine.
 
Did you take out and inspect the baffles? I clean and inspect mine every couple hundred rounds or so, and also rotate the baffles to reduce zero shift.
I know that AAC wont just send you new baffles, you will have to send your can in if they are damaged.
 
On another note, anyone finding a way to keep this bad boy on during strings? I shoot, tighten, shoot tighten, and at end of last string which was 5 shots, it was pretty loose. Lucky I didn't get a strike. Been trying to get that silly o ring installed in my piston, but it just seems to be slightly too big, bunches up on one side. Thread tape the best route or what?
 
Hmm. I run mine on an FNX also. Haven't had any issues with it loosening up. Are u using the short piston or the long one? And are you cleaning the threads on the host and the piston?
 
On another note, anyone finding a way to keep this bad boy on during strings? I shoot, tighten, shoot tighten, and at end of last string which was 5 shots, it was pretty loose. Lucky I didn't get a strike. Been trying to get that silly o ring installed in my piston, but it just seems to be slightly too big, bunches up on one side. Thread tape the best route or what?

Yep, thread tape. Some threads mate well, others just have the slop. The piston bounce doesn't help much with keeping it stay put.
No crush washer! The piston must bottom out on the shoulder at the end of your threads...on barrel.
 
Run that short piston on the FNH Tactical. The barrels protrude enough to allow the use of the shorter piston. As far as the unthreading I would just wrap some thread tape around it and rock on. Make sure your threads on both the piston and barrel are clean and free of any debris.
 
rubber o ring on the host.

I would avoid using rubber O-rings. While this will typically keep a can from walking off it is highly likely that it will put the suppressor bore off of true and you could be striking. Especially with the Tirant, Octane, or any other high end pistol cans. Pistol cans have fairly tight bores these days. We just launched a pistol can at shot show that we had been working on for about a year. Part of the design study was bores and in the last 10-20 years bore sizes have gotten significantly tighter. Technology and machining tolerances have come a long way as well which has given manufacturers the ability to make more high performance products but tight bores are something that is becoming more common place.

While I dont think any manufacturer would suggest it due to conflicts with a warranty or use statement, I think pipe tape is fairly harmless to try. But using anything that could put the suppressor out of allignment is a bad idea.

Pistol cans loosen faster than any other suppressor. You just have to check tighten while shooting with your non firing hand. Also its always a good idea to visually check bore alignment with a silencer and host weapon prior to shooting to ensure you have baffle clearance to the bore. Obviously unload the firearms in accordance with user manual etc etc etc...