Re: Tired or FL resizing 308, how do I bump shoulder?
If you understand how a FL die works, and what happens to the brass as it's being pressed into the die, then you will answer a lot of questions for yourself.
The stigma attached to "parial resizing" with a FL die is soley the fault of people simply not setting up the die correctly to begin with, beit on purpose, or by ignorance.
As the brass is being pressed into the FL die the first thing to contact the interior of the die is the case body itself. This portion of the case is squeezed down in circumferential size progressively over it's length. The further into the die, the more the case body diameter is reduced. This causes the shoulder to move forward because the brass has to go somewhere, which increases the headspace length.
At some point in this process the case neck enters the neck area of the die and is also reduced in circumferential size, diameter.
Further into the die the shoulder of the case approaches and is supposed to make contact with the shoulder part of the die. When it does, pending how the die is set up, the shoulder part of the die will "push back" the shoulder of the case to whatever amount the die is set up to move it. This is entirely why it's possible to over size a case and create headspace issues.
IMHE, the proper way to set up a FL die, using annealed brass, is to just bump the shoulder .001". This produces the minimum amount of FL sizing and still bumps the shoulder back where chambering is easy. Note the key words "annealed brass". Measuring the amount of shoulder set back is easily done with comparator gauges I made on a lathe. I actually measure the headspace on each piece of brass as it comes off the die, making sure I'm maintaining the .001" bump.
If lubing and sizing rifle brass is too hard, or just too time consuming for you, then maybe you would be better suited with factory ammo. Shortcuts in the reloading world usually do not bode well.