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To crimp or not to crimp

Shrike

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 24, 2004
133
17
Las Cruces, NM
I am setting up my dillon to reload 9mm and .40SW. Prior to now, I have reloaded .44mag only on it. I have just used the 3-die sets with the bullet seating die that taper crimps. Do you recommend factory crimping on autos?
 
Re: To crimp or not to crimp

You don't need to put a heavy crimp on those rounds, only remove the bell. I do use a Lee FCD (Factory Crimp Die) as it resizes it one last time as well as removes the bell/crimp at the last station. More important is to truly FL resize them as the Glocked ones will have the bulge right above the casehead that flared Dillon dies normally don't reach and remove properly; also why a lot of us use an FCD to make sure we've removed the belly. Ymmv
 
Re: To crimp or not to crimp

Taper crimp is fine...you need a bit of crimp to avoid having the bullet being pushed deep into the case when the gun cycles. Deep seating can really boost the internal pressures.
 
Re: To crimp or not to crimp

I use the Dillon taper crimp die on .45 ACP, .460 Rowland, and .40 S&W. I have not had any issues in the 10k rounds or so I have loaded. On revolver cartridges I use a roll crimp.
 
Re: To crimp or not to crimp

I used to use the Lee FCD with 40S&W, now I have thrown the crimping portion away and use the FCD with the Lee Buldge Buster attachment to fix Glocked brass, I now use a Redding Tapper Crimp Die to remove the bell and crimp my cases at .421, I tried to the seat\crimp feature on my Hornadee die and found inconsistent crimping.