Gunsmithing torque on savage rifle
- Thread starter toddconley
- Start date
Re: torque on savage rifle
I torque my Savage to 45 inlbs in the rear and 55 inlbs in the front. I'm pretty sure that this was the setting that Kevin Rayhill gave me.
Any one who knows better feel free to chime in and set me right...
I torque my Savage to 45 inlbs in the rear and 55 inlbs in the front. I'm pretty sure that this was the setting that Kevin Rayhill gave me.
Any one who knows better feel free to chime in and set me right...
Re: torque on savage rifle
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tman300wm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I torque my Savage to 45 inlbs in the rear and 55 inlbs in the front. I'm pretty sure that this was the setting that Kevin Rayhill gave me.
Any one who knows better feel free to chime in and set me right...
</div></div>
I go 55 for the rear screw and 65 in the front. But your idea is right on. YOu gun may just shoot better that way you just never know.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tman300wm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I torque my Savage to 45 inlbs in the rear and 55 inlbs in the front. I'm pretty sure that this was the setting that Kevin Rayhill gave me.
Any one who knows better feel free to chime in and set me right...
</div></div>
I go 55 for the rear screw and 65 in the front. But your idea is right on. YOu gun may just shoot better that way you just never know.
Re: torque on savage rifle
I like to be able to use folding set.
By just cranking to a spec, on two different bolts, can you see where a problem may be?
Are the pillars/ locating surfaces doing their jobs?
Another question after just cranking.
Why did it go crack?
I like to be able to use folding set.
By just cranking to a spec, on two different bolts, can you see where a problem may be?
Are the pillars/ locating surfaces doing their jobs?
Another question after just cranking.
Why did it go crack?
Re: torque on savage rifle
I read a gunsmithing article reprint some years back that recommended only about 25in/lb for the pillar bedded stocks. I think this will vary according to the stock, and would seek the maker for the most accurate info.
I use different criteria, since I don't have a torque wrench.
When I went to IBM typewriter repair mechanic's school back in the mid and late 1960's were were taught to thoroughly degrease threads and to tighten bolts with significant thread engagement to the point where they would bind, then jump a few degrees further. There's a 'snick' or 'snap' sound associated with this condition. This was to ensure an adequate degree of thread friction to cope with sustained vibration while applying only the minimum necessary torque value. We used Bristoe fasteners and 'T' wrenches, the forerunners of the familiar Torx wrenches of today.
The less torque you can get to stay torqued, the less compression the stock components need to survive. If the value decreases over sustained shooting, it's not tight enough, or the stock is compressing; which can be kinda contradictory, so keeping track of turns is essntial. If it takes more turns to achieve the same torque, your stock is getting permanently compressed, and there's a problem at work. Rigid pillar generally solve it.
IMHO, some stocks will respond to torque 'tuning'. IMHO, these stocks are only demonstrating that their bedding isn't rigid enough to work properly without resorting to tweakage. Bedding isn't an 'interface', it's a foundation. For anchoring actions and stocks, I believe the threads should be throughly degreased and dry, much as we were taught in those schools.
Greg
I read a gunsmithing article reprint some years back that recommended only about 25in/lb for the pillar bedded stocks. I think this will vary according to the stock, and would seek the maker for the most accurate info.
I use different criteria, since I don't have a torque wrench.
When I went to IBM typewriter repair mechanic's school back in the mid and late 1960's were were taught to thoroughly degrease threads and to tighten bolts with significant thread engagement to the point where they would bind, then jump a few degrees further. There's a 'snick' or 'snap' sound associated with this condition. This was to ensure an adequate degree of thread friction to cope with sustained vibration while applying only the minimum necessary torque value. We used Bristoe fasteners and 'T' wrenches, the forerunners of the familiar Torx wrenches of today.
The less torque you can get to stay torqued, the less compression the stock components need to survive. If the value decreases over sustained shooting, it's not tight enough, or the stock is compressing; which can be kinda contradictory, so keeping track of turns is essntial. If it takes more turns to achieve the same torque, your stock is getting permanently compressed, and there's a problem at work. Rigid pillar generally solve it.
IMHO, some stocks will respond to torque 'tuning'. IMHO, these stocks are only demonstrating that their bedding isn't rigid enough to work properly without resorting to tweakage. Bedding isn't an 'interface', it's a foundation. For anchoring actions and stocks, I believe the threads should be throughly degreased and dry, much as we were taught in those schools.
Greg
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