I bought this lever action .308 Browning. It has a horrible trigger. I see people recommending sending it to neil jones to get worked over. The opinion is that they are hard to do for diy guys. Anyone done it or know the pitfalls? I am a mechanical guy and slick up marlins and saa colts for examples of experience.
Gunsmithing Trigger job browning blr
- Thread starter razerface
- Start date
Have a FN made BLR in .308 that I bought in 1973. The trigger is horrible but managed to harvest quite a few elk and deer with it. First centerfire rifle I bought and still one of my favorite rifles although pretty much relegated to the safe.
I've never noticed the trigger in those.
I only ever walk away remembering how horribly the stock is designed while my shoulder and cheek are bruised from a few shots. Yours may be slightly less bad since it has more than a steel butt and isn't a long action.
I never knew a gun could beat you up so badly before I shot one of those. Getting up from a chassis and going to one was memorable.
A basic trigger job is just polishing all the moving parts. Not hard, just don't modify any angles (like the old "hit it with the buffing wheel and round all the square surfaces off" hacks).
The trick is when you get to where polishing isn't enough, and you need to change springs or geometry. This is where if there's a guy for it, he's probably pretty cheap compared to replacing parts you screwed up.
I only ever walk away remembering how horribly the stock is designed while my shoulder and cheek are bruised from a few shots. Yours may be slightly less bad since it has more than a steel butt and isn't a long action.
I never knew a gun could beat you up so badly before I shot one of those. Getting up from a chassis and going to one was memorable.
A basic trigger job is just polishing all the moving parts. Not hard, just don't modify any angles (like the old "hit it with the buffing wheel and round all the square surfaces off" hacks).
The trick is when you get to where polishing isn't enough, and you need to change springs or geometry. This is where if there's a guy for it, he's probably pretty cheap compared to replacing parts you screwed up.
neiljones.com is parked free, courtesy of GoDaddy.com.
Appears he is out of business now
He was still around in 2019
If the triggers are designed anything like an A-Bolt (or if they both use the same sear springs), then I suggest getting a 1 lbs. trigger spring from JARD, and swapping it out. For $5 it's worth a shot to see if they're the same. 
I bought a JARD A-Bolt trigger for mine, and the trigger didn't fit in the action, so I sent it back, and kept the 1 lbs. trigger spring (Jard part #: 1011) and stuck it in my factory trigger, and now my factory trigger is about 1.5 lbs pull. It was like $5 for the spring. I don't regret the decision and the outcome was WAY better than stock.
Select part #: 1011
I bought a JARD A-Bolt trigger for mine, and the trigger didn't fit in the action, so I sent it back, and kept the 1 lbs. trigger spring (Jard part #: 1011) and stuck it in my factory trigger, and now my factory trigger is about 1.5 lbs pull. It was like $5 for the spring. I don't regret the decision and the outcome was WAY better than stock.
Select part #: 1011
If the triggers are designed anything like an A-Bolt (or if they both use the same sear springs), then I suggest getting a 1 lbs. trigger spring from JARD, and swapping it out. For $5 it's worth a shot to see if they're the same.
I bought a JARD A-Bolt trigger for mine, and the trigger didn't fit in the action, so I sent it back, and kept the 1 lbs. trigger spring (Jard part #: 1011) and stuck it in my factory trigger, and now my factory trigger is about 1.5 lbs pull. It was like $5 for the spring. I don't regret the decision and the outcome was WAY better than stock.
Select part #: 1011
BLR triggers are a different beast , they need a special touch . Looks like the the master is no longer in business , we can only hope he trained someone we have not heard of yet .
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