I just bought a brand new TRX 308 rail 13.2" from Troy and installed it on my rifle. It fits fits ok but once the rifle is set on the bench on its bipod, the rail system noses up allowing the gas block to contact the inside of the rail system. Its completely flush with the upper receiver and the two pinch bolts are gently tightened to clamp the rail system to the barrel nut. (I slightly torque more with no positive results). What is strange is that without a scope installed, you can sight down the upper receiver down the top piccatiny rail and see that the rail system is going up in a different plane than the upper receiver rail. The barrel nut was torqued to 50 lb.ft of torque so I know its not loose. The two little pinch bolts just dont seem to be cinching the rail system down enough to hold the rail system firm to the barrel nut. Has anyone else experianced this? Is there a fix. Bummer is that I had it cerakoted so now I cant return it and I will have to pay for another rail to get cerakoted if there is no fix for this loose fit. Prior to cerakote, I test fitted the rail system and it seemed ok, but I never installed my bipod and allowed the weight of the rifle to apply pressure to the rail system attaching points. Ive never fired this rifle and I really dont want my rail system to contact my barrel. Is there a rail system with a more robust attaching design than this Troy? I do like the way it looks but....
- Thread starter 909er
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Don't "gently" tighten those locking bolts.. TIGHTEN them.. There in lies your problem..
My 5.56 has a Troy Alpha, and doesn't touch the barrel at all. I have no experience with installing rails but is it possible you might have flubbed some portion of the install? This is the first I have heard of this issue with a Troy rail. They are usually regarded as a solid system from the guys in the know.
Hopefully someone else will come along and be of more help, but I would consider having someone else take a look at it before grabbing another rail.
Hopefully someone else will come along and be of more help, but I would consider having someone else take a look at it before grabbing another rail.
I had to tighten the shit out of those two little screws to make mine stop flexing around.
I just installed the same rail on my M&P 10. Those pinch screws should be moderately tight and still have a gap.
Mine is pretty solid but I'm not sure I care for the execution of how Troy did this. Sure wish Daniel Defense made their rail in a low profile version.
Mine is pretty solid but I'm not sure I care for the execution of how Troy did this. Sure wish Daniel Defense made their rail in a low profile version.
One of the attendees at our DM Course this past weekend said he installed a washer as a shim on his .224 Wylde AR15 with the Troy/VTAC handguard because he was having the same problem. I don't know where he put it, but it fixed the issue for him. I'll have to ask and get back...
Ok, he put an old gas ring around the gas tube to shim the handguard angle back down so he could at least zero his irons. Hope this helps. You could go to a hardware store and find small spacer washers that would fit over the gas tube.
Ok, he put an old gas ring around the gas tube to shim the handguard angle back down so he could at least zero his irons. Hope this helps. You could go to a hardware store and find small spacer washers that would fit over the gas tube.
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I have the same problem on my AR-10. I added a shim and tightened the pinch screws all the way down. That worked ok but the gas block was still pretty close to hitting the rail. So I used a dremel with a sanding wheel and removed the ridges on the ID of the rail under the gas block. Then I used some Aluma Black where I had sanded.
I have installed 2 Alpha rails on Ar-15's and never had this issue before.
I have installed 2 Alpha rails on Ar-15's and never had this issue before.
Its a shitty design, there are much better ways of doing it. I am gonna find some (aluminum) foil tape and wrap the barrel nut on mine cause there is a not a gap at the screws. The rail is older and has been of and on numerous times.
I'm having second thoughts about the Troy because of the flawed mounting system. Why can't they just use a screw-on design!
Will this one work? - Daniel Defense Modular Float Rail 12.0
Although, the Daniel Defense has a design flaw as well - the cutouts must be in checkered order for better rigidity. Troy did that one right.
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I don't think so. I didn't see on the web site that it was for a 7.62/.308 AR. Keep in mind if whatever you get is not DPMS low profile compatible it won't be even with the receiver rail. In hindsight, I think an Apex system or maybe the Troy MRF-308. The Troy only comes in a 13.8" length.
For those wondering, I just installed a VLTOR clamp-on gas block. There is plenty of clearance with the Troy TRX.
For those wondering, I just installed a VLTOR clamp-on gas block. There is plenty of clearance with the Troy TRX.
Strange, I have one on my Armalite AR-10, and haven't had any problems with the Tube moving at all, even when loading the bipod. I will say that the tube should'nt just be pushed on with the upper rail, and tube rail straight on. It should go on tilted either to the left or right, and then rotated top dead center, then tighten the hex bolts.
Like stated above I torque the crap out of it until it don't move. No problems.
I've mounted two of these rails on a .308 the first one went on without a hitch. The second one never did mount exactly right atleast by my standards. I love the rail but the mounting system leaves a lot to be disired.
