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Ultra Lightweight Hunting Rifle

ETXbeginner

Private
Minuteman
May 21, 2020
34
10
East Texas
I’ve decided to buy or have built the lightest hunting rifle I can find. I hunt in Texas, shots will always be inside 300 yards, typically in the 75-150 yard range. I want something with a shorter barrel and minimal weight. I am not recoil adverse, grew up shooting an old 7 mag that was a real bruiser. I’m thinking something along the lines of a 6cm, 6.5cm, 243 win, possibly 6.5 PRC to compensate for mv loss (could settle for 308 if need be but not a fan). I want a short and light rifle, Rem 700 action or Bighorn for building or other suggestions. Open to any suggestions on light factory rifles, I know savage makes a 110 with cf barrel because there is one for $1050 at my local gun store but the barrel is too long for my use. I had a Model 7 threaded in 308 that kicked worse than my 300 WM but was a dream to handle and move in the box blind. I loved the 16” barrel and would like to stick with the 16.5” or 18” barrel. I know there will be mv loss but like I said close range shots so should still have sufficient energy for expansion. I see Kimber makes a 5 pound rifle but my previous experience with the pencil barreled Remington wasn’t great accuracy wise. I was thinking a Proof CF barrel but the prefit barrels for the bighorn are all longer than I’d like. NSS has tried Remington actions so I could go that route and get a proof blank in the desired length but then pay gs for install and be at the price of a bighorn. Stock would be a stocky’s VG2 or M50, possibly a G.A. composites stock. BDL bottom metal and factory Remington trigger or timney. The building option seems both more expensive and heavier than most lightweight factory options but as long as it’s within a few ounces and a few hundred dollars I’d rather go custom. Price range is $1200-2000 for the entire build not including glass. I’m new to the community of custom and nicer guns so any critiques or questions are welcome. I do not reload or do any of my own gunsmithing other than simple trigger adjusting, scope mounting, or swapping stocks. Some older threads helped guide me to this point but I figured I’d seek further counsel, thanks in advance.
 
Love my element. Look around for an 18 inch barrel fieldcraft in 6cm, should meet all your needs.
 
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I did some initial testing on my T3x @ 7.6 lbs...I guess that's not light by today's standards, but it is hard for me to imagine a situation where that's not light enough. That said, if you get one at a good price (mine was $620 new, stainless in the PX), you can very easily use the rest of your budget to dock the barrel, swap to a bottom metal if that's your jam and muck with the factory stock or upgrade to a new one.
 
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At those ranges, may as well get a 6.5 grendel mini action Howa. I bought one and am having it barreled in 22 grendel with a proof carbon fiber for 600 yards and in. Gonna be a super lightweight rifle, no recoil, and easy to handle for backpacking.

Savage has the lightweight hunter rifle.

A buddy built a 20" proof carbon fiber in 6.5 creedmoor on a trued Remington from NSS. Its a hammer to 800 easy for hunting. He put an AG composite Visigoth and it is amazingly light.
 
I absolutely love packing my FIX, I hunt Utah and Colorado for both deer and elk. Had Dave Tooley cut the barrel down to 17” and cut some deep flutes in it It’s an easy all day packer. Been seeing them on the PX for as low as $2600.00 ECF1CE9D-66A2-410C-97FE-0B5FDF74F6BE.jpeg
 
If the Fieldcrafts weren't discontinued I'd suggest that.
Man, when did that happen? That sucks... the Fieldcraft is a really neat little rifle, and tailor-made for this sort of use case.

I wonder if they just weren't selling, or what...
 
Hunting in texas, dont worry about energy. Anything larger than .223 will zap a white tail just fine, and I'll just say that there are a whole lot of deer skulls at our families ranch that met their end by a fast moving 55 grain pill...

Just for hunting, I think a .243 is great. Plenty of ammo avalible.

If you want to start playing with heavier pills for long range shooting a 6 creed starts making sense, but ammo is more scarce.

.308 is overkill. Destroys a lot of meat on a shoulder hit on those little guys. Dont ever bother with a 6.5 prc.
 
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Hunting in texas, dont worry about energy. Anything larger than .223 will zap a white tail just fine, and I'll just say that there are a whole lot of deer skulls at our families ranch that met their end by a fast moving 55 grain pill...

Just for hunting, I think a .243 is great. Plenty of ammo avalible.

If you want to start playing with heavier pills for long range shooting a 6 creed starts making sense, but ammo is more scarce.

.308 is overkill. Destroys a lot of meat on a shoulder hit on those little guys. Dont ever bother with a 6.5 prc.

100% agree. A fast moving .224 will take a lot of game. I weighed out small light rifles and settled on a 22 grendel and will play with 75 to 80 grain. Based on the ballistic games I played, I think I can get 500 to 600 lethal and accurate.

Having a light bullet with small charges makes shooting a light rifle much easier.
 
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Yeah. Not to mention, depending on the ranges you are shooting at, and your skill, headshots are (imo) perfectly ethical. We had an old timer living in a cabin with a deer blind 30 yards outside his kitchen window... dont need a 308 for that lol.
 
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I just went through this.


I ended up with a Kimber Montana. Found one brand new in the box for under $1000.


Aluminum trigger guard and titanium bolt handle put on. Had it bored out and rechambered to 358win. With Talley Lightweights and a 3-10x42 Swarovski it's under 6 pounds.


Unless you already have pieces of the build, it's going to be much more expensive to build a rig.


I find the Montana stock to recoil really well. Stout 358win loads are shootable.

Lots of ways to get there. But you gotta decide how much you wanna spend...
 
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I’ve decided to buy or have built the lightest hunting rifle I can find. I hunt in Texas, shots will always be inside 300 yards, typically in the 75-150 yard range. I want something with a shorter barrel and minimal weight. I am not recoil adverse, grew up shooting an old 7 mag that was a real bruiser. I’m thinking something along the lines of a 6cm, 6.5cm, 243 win, possibly 6.5 PRC to compensate for mv loss (could settle for 308 if need be but not a fan). I want a short and light rifle, Rem 700 action or Bighorn for building or other suggestions. Open to any suggestions on light factory rifles, I know savage makes a 110 with cf barrel because there is one for $1050 at my local gun store but the barrel is too long for my use. I had a Model 7 threaded in 308 that kicked worse than my 300 WM but was a dream to handle and move in the box blind. I loved the 16” barrel and would like to stick with the 16.5” or 18” barrel. I know there will be mv loss but like I said close range shots so should still have sufficient energy for expansion. I see Kimber makes a 5 pound rifle but my previous experience with the pencil barreled Remington wasn’t great accuracy wise. I was thinking a Proof CF barrel but the prefit barrels for the bighorn are all longer than I’d like. NSS has tried Remington actions so I could go that route and get a proof blank in the desired length but then pay gs for install and be at the price of a bighorn. Stock would be a stocky’s VG2 or M50, possibly a G.A. composites stock. BDL bottom metal and factory Remington trigger or timney. The building option seems both more expensive and heavier than most lightweight factory options but as long as it’s within a few ounces and a few hundred dollars I’d rather go custom. Price range is $1200-2000 for the entire build not including glass. I’m new to the community of custom and nicer guns so any critiques or questions are welcome. I do not reload or do any of my own gunsmithing other than simple trigger adjusting, scope mounting, or swapping stocks. Some older threads helped guide me to this point but I figured I’d seek further counsel, thanks in advance.
I'd get a Tikka 6.5 creedmoore and have the barrel cut to 16", there are a few CF stocks that weigh under 20 oz in the $600 range.
You'd have a 5.5lb ish rifle for about $1300
 
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At those ranges, may as well get a 6.5 grendel mini action Howa.

This.

This is my mountain rifle, for deer and similar sized game within 300yds:

1591932382983.jpeg


That’s 6lbs 12oz scoped (4-12x42) with 5 123gr SSTs in the mag. Could knock another quarter pound off that scope easy.

6.5 Grendel is perfect for what you’re talking about. The Mini action is light, fast to cycle, and short: the 20” barreled rifle is just 37.5” in total length. This rifle was under $500. You’re going to have to spend a whole lot more to get a short action rifle that’s lighter, and the cartridge (other than, say, .243) will be overkill anyway. Just my 2c. I’m pretty happy with the mini Howa.
 
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This.

This is my mountain rifle, for deer and similar sized game within 300yds:

View attachment 7349474

That’s 6lbs 12oz scoped (4-12x42) with 5 123gr SSTs in the mag. Could knock another quarter pound off that scope easy.

6.5 Grendel is perfect for what you’re talking about. The Mini action is light, fast to cycle, and short: the 20” barreled rifle is just 37.5” in total length. This rifle was under $500. You’re going to have to spend a whole lot more to get a short action rifle that’s lighter, and the cartridge (other than, say, .243) will be overkill anyway. Just my 2c. I’m pretty happy with the mini Howa.
I have an ar built in 6.5 Grendel and really love that round. The only trouble is how few bolt action options there are. IMO it performed better on medium game than my 6.5 cm. The ar was just a pain to lug around and lacked the refinement I’m looking for. A mini action 6.5 Grendel is definitely a good consideration. I’ve looked at several leupolds that are lighter than most comparable other brands. Nikon makes some that aren’t too heavy either.
 
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I just went through this.


I ended up with a Kimber Montana. Found one brand new in the box for under $1000.


Aluminum trigger guard and titanium bolt handle put on. Had it bored out and rechambered to 358win. With Talley Lightweights and a 3-10x42 Swarovski it's under 6 pounds.


Unless you already have pieces of the build, it's going to be much more expensive to build a rig.


I find the Montana stock to recoil really well. Stout 358win loads are shootable.

Lots of ways to get there. But you gotta decide how much you wanna spend...
Any feedback on the Kimber action? I know once upon a time they were well praised but less so in recent years. The Kimber adirondack is the lightest I’ve seen but likely has bad barrel whip with the featherweight profile so I’ve been skeptical. I have a Christensen BA tact and wouldn’t hesitate to get a ridgeline or similar light weight model but they don’t put shorter barrels on any of them.
 
If the Fieldcrafts weren't discontinued I'd suggest that.

I had a Christensen MPR that was pretty light and handy. Folding stock, carbon tube and barrel.
Local gs has become a friend of mine and loves his in 6cm. Definitely tempting, I may get a chance to shoot it and use that for reference going forward. So many options out there I’ve never laid eyes or hands on.
 
Hunting in texas, dont worry about energy. Anything larger than .223 will zap a white tail just fine, and I'll just say that there are a whole lot of deer skulls at our families ranch that met their end by a fast moving 55 grain pill...

Just for hunting, I think a .243 is great. Plenty of ammo avalible.

If you want to start playing with heavier pills for long range shooting a 6 creed starts making sense, but ammo is more scarce.

.308 is overkill. Destroys a lot of meat on a shoulder hit on those little guys. Dont ever bother with a 6.5 prc.
Grew up hunting with a family friend that’s an old timer. He taught head shots as soon as he felt I was accurate enough. I lugged around his ungodly heavy old Rem 700 7mag with a straight 6 leupold and the factory trigger set to about 6 pounds (before I knew any better). Deer still got dead, but now that I’m old enough to start my own collection I’m trying to move towards something better suited. I have a 6.5 Grendel that is devastating inside 500 yards and negligible recoil but don’t love hunting with an ar. My 223 did the job on a buck last year but a shot to the heart barely shook him which wasn’t a good feeling. No blood trail no exit wound just a dead deer about 20 yards away.
 
At those ranges, may as well get a 6.5 grendel mini action Howa. I bought one and am having it barreled in 22 grendel with a proof carbon fiber for 600 yards and in. Gonna be a super lightweight rifle, no recoil, and easy to handle for backpacking.

Savage has the lightweight hunter rifle.

A buddy built a 20" proof carbon fiber in 6.5 creedmoor on a trued Remington from NSS. Its a hammer to 800 easy for hunting. He put an AG composite Visigoth and it is amazingly light.
I’d be interested in hearing his word on the Visigoth. I love AG’s designs and colorations but haven’t figured out which would suit me best without ever handling them. I like stocks with a higher cheek weld, my thinner face makes it a pain to get proper alignment on larger scopes that require higher mounting.
 
Isn’t most hunting in Texas out of a stand or blind? Why do you need to go light? I have a 6.8 build with a composite lower, 16” upper and a vortex razor LH 1.5-8. Might hit 6 pounds with a full mag. Very handy rifle and had knocked the crap out of every black tail I’ve aimed it at. To be fair, most were high neck shots.
 
I’ve looked at several leupolds that are lighter than most comparable other brands. Nikon makes some that aren’t too heavy either.

Yeah the Leupy on that one is an old VX-2 that’s just under a pound, 15oz if I recall. Great for its specs (AO too) but can go lighter. If I had $350 burning a hole in my pocket I’d grab an SWFA ultralight 2.5-10x32 that’s only 9.5oz and probably has better glass. Under 6.5lbs right there.

Have a Nikon Prostaff 5 on another hunting rifle since you mentioned it. 4.5-14x42 or something close to that and weighs 18oz with side focus. Glass is noticeably worse than the Leupy though.
 
I have a 6.8 build with a composite lower, 16” upper and a vortex razor LH 1.5-8. Might hit 6 pounds with a full mag.

I’d weigh it, that sounds crazy light. Lightest AR I ever built was just over 5lbs empty and no optic. That scope plus mount/rings is a little over a pound and and a full mag is a pound; if that rifle is actually 4lbs flat or less I’d love the specs for a future lightweight build.
 
Any feedback on the Kimber action? I know once upon a time they were well praised but less so in recent years. The Kimber adirondack is the lightest I’ve seen but likely has bad barrel whip with the featherweight profile so I’ve been skeptical. I have a Christensen BA tact and wouldn’t hesitate to get a ridgeline or similar light weight model but they don’t put shorter barrels on any of them.



I haven't had an issue with it. There seems to be a consensus that there was a short period of questionable Kimber quality. Anything made in recent years sounds like it's good to go. The bolt guns get a bad reputation by guys that don't know how to shoot a lightweight rig. If you plop it down on a bench and expect it to shoot well...you'll be on here complaining how horrible it shoots lol. I can shoot 8" groups like that lol. If I even as much as barely hold the forend, it'll drill em.

It's a hunting rig. It's not a bench rifle.

I've never dialed in a load for it yet. Shot a generic load from it when it was a 308 and killed a buck. I have 50rds through it as a 358 to smooth out the bore.

Going to get to true load development this winter. Will find a good load and hunt with it this season. I like to work loads up for hunting guns in colder temps....and being in Pennsylvania, that's usually after the seasons, not prior.


The action itself is smooth as glass. Great little action IMO. I didn't care about the 3 position safety and locking bolt till I carried it. I still hunt and track of I have snow and my rifle is in my hands from dark to dark and I'm covering ground. Never realized how often I snag my bolt crawling through brush. Started taking advantage of that feature lol.

The triggers are pretty awesome too. I actually had mine safely running stupid light. I've since turned it back up a bit.

I did bed the action after I got it back from the rebore.

Stock is great. I actually prefer the "gritty" stock over the camo stocks. The camo ones are almost a rubbery feeling. Feels good but I question how it'd feel in the woods when wet with gloves on. I think it might get slick.

Even after the aftermarket parts and rebore, I can't build a similar rig for the cost.
 
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I’d weigh it, that sounds crazy light. Lightest AR I ever built was just over 5lbs empty and no optic. That scope plus mount/rings is a little over a pound and and a full mag is a pound; if that rifle is actually 4lbs flat or less I’d love the specs for a future lightweight build.
So here it is after I had to convert it to featureless due to my shit bag state. It was probably closer to 6.5 pounds before the a2 stock, fin grip, yankee hill slant break and rings, instead of the one piece mount. The second pic is my tikka t3x super light .308 with 22” barrel and a vortex viper hs 2-10.
4D484B99-BA1D-4FD1-9E0D-AEE19773C536.jpeg
E7AA2E05-F46D-4469-8723-7D7169456695.jpeg
 
Kimber Adirondack .308 topped with a Swarovski Z3 3-10x42. I've measured the Mountain Ascent with longer barrel, maybe an ounce or two heavier. Offered in 6.5CM as well.

No Scope:
15ee546d858c100b78ebda77b333eb38.jpg


Empty:
f5756cb9c94e19b0cb30679f533d3017.jpg


Loaded Weight:
99c183f21ffe7cdeb53d22093c330dc7.jpg


Loaded weight plus 6 spares:
bbc03ec6a268212b53a13c8b319167c7.jpg
 
Oh, and that kimber is snappy. Scoped myself the first animal I shot at, but I did get a 5x5 bull elk for my troubles. Also, being as light as it is, not the easiest gun to shoot.
 
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Isn’t most hunting in Texas out of a stand or blind? Why do you need to go light? I have a 6.8 build with a composite lower, 16” upper and a vortex razor LH 1.5-8. Might hit 6 pounds with a full mag. Very handy rifle and had knocked the crap out of every black tail I’ve aimed it at. To be fair, most were high neck shots.
Yes I predominantly hunt from box blinds. It can be a pain to pick up a rifle with a 26 inch barrel that weighs 12 pounds and swing it out of the little window without bumping it a million times in the process. The shorter lighter guns just pick up and point and don’t give me any trouble. I had a buck last season that popped out at 45 yards and looked me dead in the eyes. I had my little model seven and was able to grab it slowly and get it up and aimed without it ever protruding from the window. I usually rest on the window but given how close he was and the fact I was already busted I took it freehand. Worked out well and I’d like another gun like it. Just had inconsistent shooting out of it and horrible recoil.
 
@ETXbeginner - Check out the Kimber Adirondack (18" Barrel) I posted above. On sandbags mine will shoot sub-MOA 3 shot groups with factory ammo. Definitely not something you can heat up, but not what it's designed for. Awesome to carry and easy to handle. The .308 is snappy, the 6.5 CM would be better, and they are threaded and come with a brake if you want to run them.
 
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Yes I predominantly hunt from box blinds. It can be a pain to pick up a rifle with a 26 inch barrel that weighs 12 pounds and swing it out of the little window without bumping it a million times in the process. The shorter lighter guns just pick up and point and don’t give me any trouble. I had a buck last season that popped out at 45 yards and looked me dead in the eyes. I had my little model seven and was able to grab it slowly and get it up and aimed without it ever protruding from the window. I usually rest on the window but given how close he was and the fact I was already busted I took it freehand. Worked out well and I’d like another gun like it. Just had inconsistent shooting out of it and horrible recoil.

If you are recoil sensitive then the ultralight will make it worse as well.

You can add a couple lbs or a muzzle brake/suppressor but ultralight and shootability typically do not go together (choose one or the other).

I think a good compromise would be a Tikka Lite/Superlite.
 
If you are recoil sensitive then the ultralight will make it worse as well.

You can add a couple lbs or a muzzle brake/suppressor but ultralight and shootability typically do not go together (choose one or the other).

I think a good compromise would be a Tikka Lite/Superlite.

That is a very good point. For an ultralight at the ranges he is talking, this is why you go with something like a 22 Grendel, 6 ARC (6 grendel), or a 6.5 Grendel. Lighter bullets and less powder. Inside 300 yards, the 22 with a 75-85 grain bullet will have less recoil and more velocity than heavier bullets. Velocity is what makes a bullet perform, and on light game, the 75-85 .224 bullet is adequate for the job. You don't need a shoulder shot to anchor an animal, you can do a neck shot, head shot, or heart shot. Don't need a brake on one either.

When I work around the house, I pick the hammer that best suits the job. I don't need a sledge to drive a nail, but I can still do it. Inside 300 yards on whitetail you don't need a full size short action like .243 or 6 creed.
 
@ETXbeginner - Check out the Kimber Adirondack (18" Barrel) I posted above. On sandbags mine will shoot sub-MOA 3 shot groups with factory ammo. Definitely not something you can heat up, but not what it's designed for. Awesome to carry and easy to handle. The .308 is snappy, the 6.5 CM would be better, and they are threaded and come with a brake if you want to run them.
I agree that sounds more ideal. May throw a brake on it for any practice shooting as long as poi shift isn’t bad. That way I could get familiar with the gun at various ranges with a little less recoil. Then unscrew the brake when hunting to save weight and length. This rifle won’t be fired much or often, just an occasional animal during the season and a few rounds when I first get it to get aquatinted with the bullet drop and handling of the rifle.
 
If you are recoil sensitive then the ultralight will make it worse as well.

You can add a couple lbs or a muzzle brake/suppressor but ultralight and shootability typically do not go together (choose one or the other).

I think a good compromise would be a Tikka Lite/Superlite.
I have nothing against recoil, I shoot my 300wm often and have learned a bit about handling recoil and staying accurate. My complaint was that for my intended application, the 308 was too much bullet and unneeded recoil. Should’ve been clearer in my conveying my needs, sorry. Like the gentleman said, I don’t need a jack hammer to do the job of a claw hammer, smaller bore cartridge with higher mv and minimal recoil is the route I’ll be going. I had a model 7 in 204 ruger, only one I’ve ever seen. Loved it and loved shooting it but sold it on an impulse. It was perfect for super accurate shots inside 150 yards though with devastating effects.
 
I agree that sounds more ideal. May throw a brake on it for any practice shooting as long as poi shift isn’t bad. That way I could get familiar with the gun at various ranges with a little less recoil. Then unscrew the brake when hunting to save weight and length. This rifle won’t be fired much or often, just an occasional animal during the season and a few rounds when I first get it to get aquatinted with the bullet drop and handling of the rifle.

Here you go:


The "Adirondack" name is from the Adirondacks of upstate NY. Designed for eastern deer hunting where shots are much shorter, don't need a big boomer of a caliber, and having a handy lightweight rifle is helpful.

Love mine, it has its' place. But it is harder to shoot at the expense of being really easy to carry. Primarily sitting in a blind, you can still go short and maneuverable and a couple pounds heavier, recoil will be better, and easier to shoot. Could buy a Tikka T3X, outfit it with an Axial Precision stock, 18" Carbonsix barrel, and you'll probably be not much more than the Adirondack.
 
What part of Texas are you in ? I have all the calibers you are looking at. in light weight rifles I am in Plano area . I have a private range to shoot if you want to meet up and try a few.
 
Love the zippy 204. I looked at the Model 7 for my ultralight rifle build, but the Howa mini action using the Grendel bolt face called to me.

Rifles are tools. I have a bison hunt this summer and it called for a different tool than any I currently have. It will be from a blind and shots past 100 yards are unlikely. Mostly 50 to 75 yards. My 7 Sherman Short mag can do it fine. But, its a lot of gun and long barrel. So, I bought an 18 inch 308 Savage take off barrel for my Nucleus action. I screwed it on and it shoots about MOA or less with box ammo just sighting it in. That's all I need to put a big bullet going at a fast enough speed into the boiler room of a bison. It ain't fancy, but its a tool for the job. After the hunt, I will probably pull that .308 barrel, oil it down, and then stick it in the corner as my "prepper" rifle, cause "everyone needs at .308".
 
what's your target weight?
I went through the evolution of lightweights and back to sport weight rifles.

I have owned several Kimber Montana rifles and they all shot well and packed like a dream. However you really had to focus to get good results. If i backpacked I would probably go back. However I mostly day hunt is all so the extra 2 lbs doesn't bother me much.
 
Fix. Once you set in your stand next season you’ll understand. Add a suppressor for the coup de grâce. Drink the Cool-Aid and enjoy. A 16” .308 or 6.5 will be perfect for what you are doing.

CBE5ED5E-8AC6-41D8-8812-64A121C517F9.jpeg
 
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If you want lightweight for shorter yardages, here you go:


Just depends if you want the short barrel or not.
 
Not to be critical of your choice but why an ultra light rifle for Texas hunting? Most hunting I have seen there is from trucks or box blinds. A fairly short heavy rifle would seem to suit your purpose better. Light rifles get picky about how rested, how held etc.
 
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Another vote for the Kimber Mountain Ascent or Adirondack. I had a mountain ascent in .308 topped with a Swarovski z3 4-12 and it was sub 6 lbs scoped and slung, and it shot great. A lot of guys try to build ultra-light mountain rifles and when they're selecting components they start chasing features and lose focus on weight and all of a sudden they've just built another 7-8lb rifle. The kimbers are stupid light and you will really struggle to build one that light. They do thump though...
 
Another vote for the Kimber Mountain Ascent or Adirondack. I had a mountain ascent in .308 topped with a Swarovski z3 4-12 and it was sub 6 lbs scoped and slung, and it shot great. A lot of guys try to build ultra-light mountain rifles and when they're selecting components they start chasing features and lose focus on weight and all of a sudden they've just built another 7-8lb rifle. The kimbers are stupid light and you will really struggle to build one that light. They do thump though...


It's definitely difficult to make the weight...where it is REALLY difficult is doing it for a comparable price. Especially Montana prices.


Aside from the fluting and camo job, their rifles are all the same. I couldn't pass up the deal I got on my Montana over a little bit of fluting. Lol. And knowing I was boring it out, fluting and already thin barrel may have made my 358 impossible.


Although they are light, the stock design IMO is very recoil friendly.


Like a few guys said, I wouldn't even own a lightweight rig if my hunting style was from a stationary position. For me, on the go actively sneaking through the timber of the northeast, I got tired of having a 7.5-9 pound rifle in my hands all day.
 
That is a very good point. For an ultralight at the ranges he is talking, this is why you go with something like a 22 Grendel, 6 ARC (6 grendel), or a 6.5 Grendel. Lighter bullets and less powder. Inside 300 yards, the 22 with a 75-85 grain bullet will have less recoil and more velocity than heavier bullets. Velocity is what makes a bullet perform, and on light game, the 75-85 .224 bullet is adequate for the job. You don't need a shoulder shot to anchor an animal, you can do a neck shot, head shot, or heart shot. Don't need a brake on one either.

When I work around the house, I pick the hammer that best suits the job. I don't need a sledge to drive a nail, but I can still do it. Inside 300 yards on whitetail you don't need a full size short action like .243 or 6 creed.
I hate recoil. This sounds like the perfect setup: light weight, light recoil, plenty of energy for a deer kill out to 300 yds.
 
I'm sure they have their place, but an ultralight rifle, after several hours of trotting around daily, just doesn't cut it when one's heartbeat is raised significantly higher after a long uphill sprint; a heavier rifle's sight picture is just that much more forgiving & stable.

In my experience, a short handy 10lb rig beats a similarly barrel'd sub 7lb rig all week long.

Since I hunt critters from 70lb to 1400lbs with a single rifle/caliber, perhaps I'm just adapting to what I have.

Naturally, one's fitness & endurance play a role.

Pruning a few lbs off one's midriff is worth far more than a similar reduction on one's rifle/scope combo.
 
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Naturally, one's fitness & endurance play a role.

Pruning a few lbs off one's midriff is worth far more than a similar reduction on one's rifle/scope combo.

[puts the covid potato chips bag down]

WHAT ARE YOU IMPLYING?! 😂

Checking w/ Uintah Precision if their bolt action AR upper in 6ARC is compatible with the AR Diamond trigger in my dedicated precision lower. Anyone else intrigued by this option as much as I am? Seems perfect for a target gun when I’ve already got a great target-focused lower...