USMCSGT0331 newbies guide to building a M40

[Belvedere]

Thanks!

 

[ArtofStealth]

Your comment didn't get lost in the noise, we all know that you're looking for the scope! You have 6 posts on this site, and 4 of those 6 post are you posting that you're looking for a scope. You even posted that twice in this thread and posted in 2 other threads. We get it, you're looking for a scope!

That's about as kindly as I'll put it, since you're new here. Other accounts have been locked or banned for spamming the tech sections of this post for WTB and WTS posts like yours. Just be thankful that a mod hasn't seen your posts and locked your account or whatever by now. Don't take this personally, the people who frequent this section of the forum (and other sections) are sick of people trying to post WTB and WTS outside of the PX area. If you think I'm being harsh, just imagine having to write this same post every few weeks (assuming that the mods haven't first banned the person). I'm providing you with advice below, I suggest that you use it.

If you're truly here to learn, then start asking questions in the relevant topic threads. There's many people on this site, myself included, that will do our absolute best to help you out. But first you need to stop making these WTB (want to buy) posts all over this section of the forum. Also, the guys who hang out in this section usually check every single thread for new posts, because this is the stuff that interests us. So, if we've seen one of your posts, then we've seen them all, and someone would have contacted you by now if they could help. Spamming this section is only going to turn people off and that will only work against you.

Here's a link to the PX on this forum, where you will make all of your buy/sell/trade posts:

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forums/firearms-buy-sell-trade/

So, please stop posting your WTB ads in this secton of the forum, use the PX. Also, this site hammers people for making posts like yours outside the PX area because it's not just annoying, but it's also against site rules and tons of people try to sidestep the part where they need to pay to use the PX. The forum owner and the moderators do an amazing job keeping this site running and adding content for paid members. Buying a "supporter" account for $20 per month is a very small price to pay to have exclusive access to what's possibly the best forum PX on the internet! The money also goes to making the site better, covers the site costs, and pays for the content that's exclusive to paid memberships.

With that said, and the assumption that you aren't going to make any more WTB posts for that scope outside of the PX area, what M40 information can I help you with? Post questions here or in their relevant threads, and we'll start helping you out.

My apologies, I assumed the more comments I made the higher the chances of someone seeing it and being able to help me would go up. I won't make any more... Thank you for the feedback and reply.

 

[ArtofStealth]

I do have a question, I don't know if this has been discussed here or not... My newly acquired M40 is the first wooden stock rifle I have ever owned, I have cleaned the bolt, barrel etc. I have not cleaned the stock yet, I don't want to damage the wood. What do you all recommend on treating the wood with that won't damage it in the long run?

 

[cplnorton]

I do have a question, I don't know if this has been discussed here or not... My newly acquired M40 is the first wooden stock rifle I have ever owned, I have cleaned the bolt, barrel etc. I have not cleaned the stock yet, I don't want to damage the wood. What do you all recommend on treating the wood with that won't damage it in the long run?

I personally wipe mine down with Boiled Linseed Oil every few years. I've always had good luck with it.

 

[ArtofStealth]

Thank you for the reply. I appreciate it. I will give that a try, I'm assuming a little of that goes along way.

 

[cplnorton]

Thank you for the reply. I appreciate it. I will give that a try, I'm assuming a little of that goes along way.

It does. I pull all metal off the stock and then put a coat on it and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Then wipe off any excess.

It works great and I do this to every wood stocked rifle I own. Even extremely expensive stocks.

Just make sure all metal is removed or otherwise it sort of makes a mess on metal.

 

[ArtofStealth]

Your comment didn't get lost in the noise, we all know that you're looking for the scope! You have 6 posts on this site, and 4 of those 6 post are you posting that you're looking for a scope. You even posted that twice in this thread and posted in 2 other threads. We get it, you're looking for a scope!

That's about as kindly as I'll put it, since you're new here. Other accounts have been locked or banned for spamming the tech sections of this post for WTB and WTS posts like yours. Just be thankful that a mod hasn't seen your posts and locked your account or whatever by now. Don't take this personally, the people who frequent this section of the forum (and other sections) are sick of people trying to post WTB and WTS outside of the PX area. If you think I'm being harsh, just imagine having to write this same post every few weeks (assuming that the mods haven't first banned the person). I'm providing you with advice below, I suggest that you use it.

If you're truly here to learn, then start asking questions in the relevant topic threads. There's many people on this site, myself included, that will do our absolute best to help you out. But first you need to stop making these WTB (want to buy) posts all over this section of the forum. Also, the guys who hang out in this section usually check every single thread for new posts, because this is the stuff that interests us. So, if we've seen one of your posts, then we've seen them all, and someone would have contacted you by now if they could help. Spamming this section is only going to turn people off and that will only work against you.

Here's a link to the PX on this forum, where you will make all of your buy/sell/trade posts:

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forums/firearms-buy-sell-trade/

So, please stop posting your WTB ads in this secton of the forum, use the PX. Also, this site hammers people for making posts like yours outside the PX area because it's not just annoying, but it's also against site rules and tons of people try to sidestep the part where they need to pay to use the PX. The forum owner and the moderators do an amazing job keeping this site running and adding content for paid members. Buying a "supporter" account for $20 per month is a very small price to pay to have exclusive access to what's possibly the best forum PX on the internet! The money also goes to making the site better, covers the site costs, and pays for the content that's exclusive to paid memberships.

With that said, and the assumption that you aren't going to make any more WTB posts for that scope outside of the PX area, what M40 information can I help you with? Post questions here or in their relevant threads, and we'll start helping you out.

Do you know what action screws were originally on the M40? My SSA came with allen head screws, it appears the Chuck Mawhinney batch of rifles came with flathead screws. I recently had to do some stock work, what are the torque specs? I don't want to over/under torque, since the stock is wood I'm assuming 30-40?

 

[capthook]

I'm sure some of you guys have seen this and I apologize of it has already been posted. I found this video on YouTube and it has some really good M40 footage from Viet Nam. Check it out, no sound but some great footage.

 

[capthook]

and it begins....

Action has been trued, lapped the recoil lugs yesterday. I need to true up the bolt face, cut the thumb relief and black oxide everything...

 

[capthook]

Relief cut (as Per Raven's dimensions) and black oxided. This post has been a wealth of knowledge. Thanks.

 

[USMCSGT0331]

Relief cut (as Per Raven's dimensions) and black oxided. This post has been a wealth of knowledge. Thanks.

Looks great, and I'm very happy to hear that this thread has been helpful! Did you ever consider doing the left rail cut to your receiver? I always ask people what they think about this cut, and whether or not they'll do it for their M40 build. It's one of those very small details that only an M40 super nerd would actually know, so it's not a necessary cut unless you're building the most detailed M40 clone possible.

 

[capthook]

Looks great, and I'm very happy to hear that this thread has been helpful! Did you ever consider doing the left rail cut to your receiver? I always ask people what they think about this cut, and whether or not they'll do it for their M40 build. It's one of those very small details that only an M40 super nerd would actually know, so it's not a necessary cut unless you're building the most detailed M40 clone possible.

Thanks USMCSGT0331. After reading your earlier post about doing the relief cut, as a minimum, I decided that I'd just do this cut. Might consider the others on the next build.

 

[USMCSGT0331]

Thanks USMCSGT0331. After reading your earlier post about doing the relief cut, as a minimum, I decided that I'd just do this cut. Might consider the others on the next build.

Thanks for the feedback! This specific cut has always been an area of discussion in M40 clone building. The left rail cut can be pretty tricky to do, and it's quite understandable that a lot of people don't want to risk cutting it wrong or potentially ruining their receiver if anything happens. It's VERY common for M40 cloners to just disregard this cut entirely, and it's usually due to the risks involved or the extra gunsmithing fee (and sometimes it's because the clone builder isn't even aware the left rail cut exists on original USMC M40's). I know people who do their own gunsmithing, and they flat out refuse to attempt this cut on their receivers due to the risk involved. It's too back that Raven isn't building rifles anymore, he mastered the left rail cut and could probably do it blindfolded!

We strive to build extremely accurate clones, but sometimes the extra risk and/or cost might be a little too much to handle. In my opinion (whatever little that's worth), omitting the left rail cut is one of those decisions that I think is perfectly acceptable for general M40 clone building. If you want to make the most historically accurate M40 clone possible, then you'll want to do this cut. For most clone builds, the left rail cut isn't a necessity and it's something that a very knowledgeable person would have to really look at to see if the cut is there or not, so it's not something that will blatantly stand out.

If you guys have ever seen clone threads on other forums, people can get pretty bitchy about what's clone correct and for them there's only one way to do things. I think @capthook's post is a good topic for discussion, because our community recognizes the fact that there's leniency in the different levels of clone building and that you can still build an absolutely amazing M40 clone while mitigating cost and risks.

 

[capthook]

Thanks for the feedback! This specific cut has always been an area of discussion in M40 clone building. The left rail cut can be pretty tricky to do, and it's quite understandable that a lot of people don't want to risk cutting it wrong or potentially ruining their receiver if anything happens. It's VERY common for M40 cloners to just disregard this cut entirely, and it's usually due to the risks involved or the extra gunsmithing fee (and sometimes it's because the clone builder isn't even aware the left rail cut exists on original USMC M40's). I know people who do their own gunsmithing, and they flat out refuse to attempt this cut on their receivers due to the risk involved. It's too back that Raven isn't building rifles anymore, he mastered the left rail cut and could probably do it blindfolded!

We strive to build extremely accurate clones, but sometimes the extra risk and/or cost might be a little too much to handle. In my opinion (whatever little that's worth), omitting the left rail cut is one of those decisions that I think is perfectly acceptable for general M40 clone building. If you want to make the most historically accurate M40 clone possible, then you'll want to do this cut. For most clone builds, the left rail cut isn't a necessity and it's something that a very knowledgeable person would have to really look at to see if the cut is there or not, so it's not something that will blatantly stand out.

If you guys have ever seen clone threads on other forums, people can get pretty bitchy about what's clone correct and for them there's only one way to do things. I think @capthook's post is a good topic for discussion, because our community recognizes the fact that there's leniency in the different levels of clone building and that you can still build an absolutely amazing M40 clone while mitigating cost and risks.

Appreciate you. This is the first machining that I've done on a Remington 700 (and it was on a 6 digit receiver). I am fortunate to have an Uncle that has a lathe and milling machine. I was initially scared to do this cut but he was there supervising and it turned out Ok. I used the measurements that Raven provided in another post and used this photo as a reference.

I really didn't want to risk the other cuts...All in all, I'm really happy with the way it's turning out. Hopefully it'll shoot...

I can't thank Raven, Toki and you enough. Thanks again.

 

[RIGREG]

Just passing this on. I have no stake here.
For anyone looking to go with the Badger M40 repro base and rings, SWFA has a quantity listed, BIN on the auction Bay site. I looked on their website and didn’t see them there. I called SWFA to confirm that they are actually selling on the bay, since it is a new vendor with only 6 feedback. The woman on the phone said they just started selling there.
I’m not sure if these are dead stock or BO is making them again. In any case, if you’ve been looking for a set, here they are.
Greg
P.S. They’re about $175 shipped, depending on your state tax scenario.

 

[Frank Green]

Just passing this on. I have no stake here.
For anyone looking to go with the Badger M40 repro base and rings, SWFA has a quantity listed, BIN on the auction Bay site. I looked on their website and didn’t see them there. I called SWFA to confirm that they are actually selling on the bay, since it is a new vendor with only 6 feedback. The woman on the phone said they just started selling there.
I’m not sure if these are dead stock or BO is making them again. In any case, if you’ve been looking for a set, here they are.
Greg
P.S. They’re about $175 shipped, depending on your state tax scenario.

Got a web link you can attach?

 

[Frank Green]

Found the link. I've got nothing going on with this or pushing it or anything like that. I'm just curious.

I'm going to message them for more/better pic's. Rings don't look welded and there is no pic of the bottom side of the base so.....?

Badger Ordnance Replica M40 Redfield Style Base & Rings | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Badger Ordnance Replica M40 Redfield Style Base & Rings at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Frank Green]

They have no add’l pics. Said everything is boxed up and sealed in packages and can’t open them. They said the rings are not welded at all. No bottom pic’s of how the mount looks as I did specifically ask for that. So basically standard Redfield rings and base is what I get out of it.

 

[jetmd]

Correct Frank.

And will only fit “Letter Prefix” serial number actions.

It would be more correct if you are building an M40

Not at all correct for an M40a1, but it would look better

 

[RIGREG]

I bought this on eBay a while back from a private seller. Sounds like this is what they have. The ad does reference the BO
Part #.

I can’t see any markings. I would say it’s black, maybe parkerized or whatever. The corners are square. The overall finish is smooth with no visible grain or machining marks. I guess you could replace the Allen screws with slotted if that matters, but it doesn’t have the blued appearance of the Redfields. My layman’s opinion is that it’s very well made and finished. It could serve a clone builder’s purpose, depending on his intent and what donor receiver is used.

Greg