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Vintage Mil Dot Master

kraigWY

CMP GSM MI
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 10, 2006
2,311
302
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Wyoming
This is from a NG Marksmanship, Qualification guide from 1917, In a way those WWI era soldiers had it all over marksmanship training then we do today.
first%20mildot%20master.jpg
 
like a mil dot scope. Hold the rule, 20 inches from your eye (holding the string in your mouth makes it easy). use the mil marks on the rule getting either the height or length, and use the Range = target in yards, times 1000/mis
 
like a mil dot scope. Hold the rule, 20 inches from your eye (holding the string in your mouth makes it easy). use the mil marks on the rule getting either the height or length, and use the Range = target in yards, times 1000/mis
OK, that makes sense.
 
Stadia actually predate the Civil WarView attachment 7229330

The 8' cavalry marks are kinda cool..

This is from a NG Marksmanship, Qualification guide from 1917, In a way those WWI era soldiers had it all over marksmanship training then we do today.
first%20mildot%20master.jpg

I need to throw one of these in the kit. I typically keep a 180 angle (like you get for kids school supplies) with a string already tied through the center scale for map shit.

It totally believe in being able to do all this shit battery free still, and with minimal supplies. I no-shit could have used this though during the shift fire phase of EIB or whatever, wouldn't been a helluva lot faster than binos, that's a fact.

Don't know why I didn't think of this myself... I studied enough math it should have come as a given! Oh well.

Cool find.
 
You can find Musketry Rule Model of 1917 and Model of 1918 fairly easily...someplace in my stash of military accoutrements I have a new in box Musketry Rule Model of 1918.
 
The math works out.

100 yds = 3600 inches
Scale is 20 inches from your face.
3600/20 = 180
1 MIL at 100 yds = 3.6"
3.6"/180 = .02"
.02" = 1 MIL at 20" from your face
1" / .02" = 50
1" at 20" from your face = 50 MILS at 100 yds

I played with this quite a bit today. It was hard to keep the scale and the object being milled in the same focal plane. But...if I made an aperature with my other hand, or looked through a peep hole in a piece of paper, I was able to keep both in focus for a more accurate reading.
 
Ok It's been awhile. So please correct me. It's been a very long time :D

Height or Width of Object in yards x 1000 and then divide that by the number of mills correct?

So according to that ruler, if a target is say 6 feet tall which is 2 yards and fits within 1 inch (50 mils) then the target is 40 yards away.
 
Ok It's been awhile. So please correct me. It's been a very long time :D

Height or Width of Object in yards x 1000 and then divide that by the number of mills correct?

So according to that ruler, if a target is say 6 feet tall which is 2 yards and fits within 1 inch (50 mils) then the target is 40 yards away.

you skipped a part. going with a 6 ft target. it would be 2 X 1000 or 2000 yards'

Then look at the target and using the scale, see how many mils you get. Lets say the scale measures 4 mils.

You now divide the 2000 from above by 4 which is 400. meaning your target is 400 yards away.
 
I finally got around to mathing this out a bit more.

I wanted the ability to use a readily available centimeter ruler for a bit finer graduation that was already divided into tenths.

If you make the string 19.6 inches long instead of 20 inches, then you get 20 mils per centimeter rather than 50 per inch.