I ordered a Mask. It has yet to come in, but was wondering what you guys do to ensure bore alignment with the suppressor? My reading indicates you should always check, no matter how high of a quality barrel you have. Makes sense....peace of mind I guess.
- Thread starter EddieE
- Start date
I’ll be honest, I didn’t even think to check on the Vudoo. Granted, I have replaceable baffles and end cap so it wouldn’t permanently destroy the silencer to get a strike. A 20-cal cleaning rod would probably serve fine, some people go so far as to use long pin gauges. You’ll get a full spectrum of answers here I expect.
Another decent option is a carbon arrow, couldn’t tell you what size but they’re cheap enough.
Another decent option is a carbon arrow, couldn’t tell you what size but they’re cheap enough.
I wouldn't even bother to check on a Vudoo...their QC in impeccable. But if you really want to, just use a cleaning rod. Or go to your local Ace Hardware and look in the hardware section for long, thin, red packages from K&S Metals. They will have a hollow aluminum tube or brass rod the appropriate diameter to fit into the bore of a 22lr...only a few bucks. I use a few of them in various diameters to align my Magnetospeed.
Read about the arrows in a few places, but no one sees to mention what diameter they come in or to buy. I'm not into archery, so not very familiar with arrows. I know the expensive ones are +/- 0.001" on their straightness. This is what the Geiselle alignment gauge ($75 + shipping) is specd to.
I'm guessing for my Vudoo, I am ok without checking. But I also will get a 22LR upper, for that, I don't want to risk it. Those things aren't exactly made to the same tolerances as my Vudoo.
If I could find arrows that would be appropriate for 22LR and 223, I would buy a few.
I'm guessing for my Vudoo, I am ok without checking. But I also will get a 22LR upper, for that, I don't want to risk it. Those things aren't exactly made to the same tolerances as my Vudoo.
If I could find arrows that would be appropriate for 22LR and 223, I would buy a few.
The problem with using an arrow is that they are incredibly expensive...and you usually can't just buy one. They sell in sets of 12 and are usually about $150-$200. You would need a X size micro diameter arrow...they are 5mm in diameter.
K&S Metals makes hollow aluminum tubes or brass rods that are perfectly straight...$5-$9 at Ace Hardware.
K&S Metals makes hollow aluminum tubes or brass rods that are perfectly straight...$5-$9 at Ace Hardware.
I will look into the KS, but i think whatever you use has to have a high straightness tolerance. That's why people are using the arrows.
The K&S rod would have to be so bent that I could see it with my eye for it to ever be an issue. People act like they ID of a suppressor baffle is 0.002" larger than the bullet traveling through it...not the case. There is so much room for error. We aren't building a space shuttle...
Magnetospeed uses a square tube. I assume due to a range of calibers. Instead of trying to match the diameter, try a square tube and use the edge.
Trying to envision what you mean by this. The MS uses a square rod so that it’ll sit on the flat top surface of the bayo and not roll off while you verify that the whole rod sits below the bore line.
I could see a square rod working if it was a close fit in the bore, but depending on material could run more risk of damaging the crown or bore due to sharper edges. Still, no reason it couldn’t work with aluminum, brass, or carbon.
damn. I feel really stupid right now. I've always inserted the the MS rod into the barrel to make sure the bullet cleared the the the MS. I guess I should've read the instructions is bit closer.
Edit: Can we switch usernames?
I use a 1/8"or 1/16" wooden dowel from the local hardware to check clearance when I use my MS, and guess I could use it to check alignment when screwing my can it. The dowel can get a slight bend/warp in it, but just spin it around to check clearance and move on.
Maybe I'm a dolt, but I just remove the bolt and look down the bore from the breech. If I don't see any part of the can I figure I'm good to go.
To be honest, I didn't think to check when I got my new Vudoo.
To be honest, I didn't think to check when I got my new Vudoo.
Per @HansohnBrothers (I asked them years ago about a suppressor alignment tool) and their procedure was as follows...
1) Attach suppressor.
2) Look down bore from chamber end.
3) Everything look round i.e. no half moon, etc? Good.
4) Shoot.
1) Attach suppressor.
2) Look down bore from chamber end.
3) Everything look round i.e. no half moon, etc? Good.
4) Shoot.
Any on 22 LR uppers? I'm not that worried about my vudoo being out of spec, but a cheap AR barrel, I don't trust those as much.
A couple of CMMG uppers and S&W 15-22. Never checked them.
Another owner of a Vudoo and Mask who never checked. Literally had my friend ask if I dry fired it it was so quiet. Was using SK standard. Love this setup.
Can't wait to get it.
You bring up a good point. What if you have a squib, would you be able to tell? With out a suppressor obviously the squib would be noticeable since it would be quieter....but with the suppressor, I bet you wouldn't be able to tell.
When shooting matches w/ the .22 Takedown, I'd often have spotters ask if I had taken my shot. They'd see a hit or miss but no sound and wonder if someone else had shot at my target. I'd constantly overhear, "that thing is so quiet". Really fun to shoot.
The 1st time I shot in a match with a SWR Spectre II on one of my CMP Rem 40X converted repeaters, I couldn't understand why mine sounded so loud when I fired, compared to a few of the other guys with cans on their 22s. After the match, I had a friend shoot my rifle while I stood a few feet away, and was amazed at how quiet it was. Finally realized that what I'd been hearing while shooting it was the sound of the firing pin hitting the cartridge rims, which was being transmitted to my ears through the composite stock which had an aluminum bedding block molded into the composite body of the stock. I also have a couple of CZ457s with Shilen ratchet bbls that I threaded while fitting & chambering them - the first is an American with Turkish walnut stock, while the 2nd is a VPT in a Manners stock - the American 'sounds' slightly more quiet to me than the VPT, though neither is as noisy as that 40X in the composite stock with bedding block.
This is not helping my anxiety over getting the Mask in my hands. SS.com says "ready to certify", but my dealer has no idea what that means. And he is a "gold" dealer based on SS site info. So, now I'm waiting for SS to educate the dealer what his next step is. Needless to say, I will not be using this bozo again. If you are in CT PM me and I can warn you privately about who to avoid. No sense in repeating my mistakes.
The people saying don't check, or I didn't check ect are saying so out of pure ignorance.
They don't know what they don't know and aren't educated enough on the subject to have an opinion worth listening to. They need to read more and post less.
Yes most high quality barrel manufactures and smiths will have what we consider concentric threading to the bore. Most Can manufactures will as well. There are a few things that could still go wrong and its why you should always check. You need actual ground rods made to the bore diameter for a tight fit, ideally with a stepped down ID so there is a hard stop at the crown.
The best products on the market I have found are from CnC warrior. They are purpose built and ground to spec.
As much as we spend on all this gear and with a 1-12month wait for a can, only a moron would risk it trying to save $20.
They don't know what they don't know and aren't educated enough on the subject to have an opinion worth listening to. They need to read more and post less.
Yes most high quality barrel manufactures and smiths will have what we consider concentric threading to the bore. Most Can manufactures will as well. There are a few things that could still go wrong and its why you should always check. You need actual ground rods made to the bore diameter for a tight fit, ideally with a stepped down ID so there is a hard stop at the crown.
The best products on the market I have found are from CnC warrior. They are purpose built and ground to spec.
As much as we spend on all this gear and with a 1-12month wait for a can, only a moron would risk it trying to save $20.
Guide Rods
CNC Warrior is a private corporation in Charlotte, North Carolina. We’ve supplied industrial, aerospace, and military customers with quality machined parts since 1955. We now offer an ever-growing variety of firearms related products to customers throughout the USA. Access to top-notch...
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Of the dozen or so cans I have, looking down the barrel for concentricity, no half moon looking out the end has always worked very well for me. Sent one can back to get the threads fixed on when I looked.
No baffle strikes for me yet. I shoot my mask in an Anschutz 1416 and my tbac tl22 on my 40x repeater.
Not your dealers fault, its on SS at this point. We are also a dealer and do not have the software from SS or the instructions on how it will integrate with the ATF for the eForm system.
SS has, however, sent our customers emails telling them to come in and certify even though they have not set us up. We talked to SS and they admitted to a mistake where a bunch of those certify emails were sent out prematurely.
Dont worry about your dealer, I'm sure he'll have the info he needs soon (we've been promised that) and then you'll be on your way.
You don't need to buy anything. Just install can and look down the barrel. IF the can isn't concentric you'll be able to tell, I've seen this with a brake unfortunately.
That is a reasonable explanation. Which my dealer could have given me and I would have been pissed with SS instead. Instead he said I don't need to do anything till the tax stamp comes in and I can pick up my can.
