I zeroed at 50 yds experimenting with MPBR with my Tikka .243. I am dead center at 50 yds but at 100, 200, and 250 I’m 2-3” right of bullseye. I’m really trying to focus on mechanics but I’m still pulling shots to the right. After the shot and follow through, my crosshairs actually go left, not right. I’m shooting off a bench with front and rear bags. I’m also sighting in a Iray thermal scope. Any suggestions? Thanks
What could cause my shots at longer ranges to go right 2”
- Thread starter Erie660
- Start date
Zero at 275. Actually shoot the target 275 yards away.
You will have a 10" MPB out to around 400.
Shoot closer and farther.
If you're shooting tight groups to the right then it is not you. Perhaps a canted reticle.
I mean the scope is not level, but cant will do the same thing. As a target shooter, I cant my rifle. To correct for the cant as I change engagement distances , the scope/sight is mounted so that the crosshairs/windage screws are parallel to the ground. When the rifle is level with the ground, the scope is canted at the angle I cant when I shoot. Some target sights have a built in adjustment to compensate for cant.
Anschutz 7020 sight can rotate in its base to compensate for cant.
It depends on height over bore of the sight and number of degrees the reticle is off parallel. The error increases as distance increases.
Have you confirmed the scope was mounted level to the rifle? So when the scope level shows level, the rifle is also actually level.
What are you using as an aiming point for the thermal? I don’t have a thermal but I’ve heard zeroing them can be tricky.
Zeroing at 100 yards/meters best irons out little inconsistencies that can be obscured at closer ranges without environmental effects.
You don't have to do POA=POI at 100, it's totally fine to put POI at whatever the adjustment from a 100 yard/meter to your desired distance is while zeroing at 100. Just want to make sure that it's exactly 12:00 above POA.
You could have a few things in play that could cause shots to land horizontally from your anticipated POI, and nailing down you optic calibration at 100 will help identify what that/those issues is/are.
POI being 2 inches right at 100 is concerning if you aren't dealing with significant wind.
The scope only needs to be level to the Earth, not the rifle. None of my rifles, without adjustable buttpad cant, are level and on purpose.
So you're shooting a thermal? I'm thinking you have a bad zero........Zero the rifle at base magnification, make sure you're on base magnification when shooting at distance. Most thermals(that arent top shelf prices) will have some poi shift when zoomed. Here's my suggestion, shoot a 10 shot zero group, zero to the center of your 10 shot group. Then test at distance. A zero that's 1/2" off at 50y will be off 2-3" of 250.
Which model Iray thermal is this?
Zero that thing at 100, or even 200. If the zero is even slightly off at 50 it’s going to be 2-3” at 2-300.
I zero my thermals zoomed all the way in - I’m pretty sure most brands actually recommend that, at-least dedicated thermals that is. I did some testing with mine on POI shift with zoom, and I couldn’t find it to be a measurable difference. Your scope however could.
Zero that thing at 100, or even 200. If the zero is even slightly off at 50 it’s going to be 2-3” at 2-300.
I zero my thermals zoomed all the way in - I’m pretty sure most brands actually recommend that, at-least dedicated thermals that is. I did some testing with mine on POI shift with zoom, and I couldn’t find it to be a measurable difference. Your scope however could.
I was going to be a smartie pants and say that you were not holding your tongue the right way.
Glad I didn't say that.
Anyway, the difficulty of zeroing at close range is that there is not enough time to see a drift if there is one.
I know others have said it in here, maybe, but I have to recertify my creds as Captain Obvious.
And to agree with @Roadrace33
Go to a 100 yard range and zero at 2 inches high. That is enough time and distance to start correcting for windage and even the Magnus Effect at longer distances.
www.britannica.com
I don't know what particular flavor of .243 ammo you are using so I just picked one from Federal.
See the inches at 100 yards.
Glad I didn't say that.
Anyway, the difficulty of zeroing at close range is that there is not enough time to see a drift if there is one.
I know others have said it in here, maybe, but I have to recertify my creds as Captain Obvious.
And to agree with @Roadrace33
Go to a 100 yard range and zero at 2 inches high. That is enough time and distance to start correcting for windage and even the Magnus Effect at longer distances.
Magnus effect | Definition, Examples, & Facts | Britannica
Magnus effect, generation of a sidewise force on a spinning cylindrical or spherical solid immersed in a fluid (liquid or gas) when there is relative motion between the spinning body and the fluid. It is responsible for the ‘curve’ of a served tennis ball and affects the trajectory of a spinning...
www.britannica.com
I don't know what particular flavor of .243 ammo you are using so I just picked one from Federal.
See the inches at 100 yards.
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