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What kind of knife sharpener should I get?

I used to use stones, and they are BETTER. But for the amount of time they take, I prefer these:


Trizor XV if you have a lot of knives.



If you only have 3 or fewer knives, this 15 degree sharpener is very good, doesn't last forever.

 
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update: I used the Lansky 3 stone sharpener first, and as it was a good, easy to use system, I found out after my first couple test knives, this was going to take quite some time. after some recommendation, I picked up the work sharp knife/tool sharpener mk.2. got to test it out today and it's the easy button. $80-90 dollar system, very easy to pick up and start learning right away with some basic practice. pretty user friendly, the info on YouTube and papers included were pretty straight forward. well worth the money. I already noticed the medium grit belt is worn down after 10 knife sharpenings. it comes with 2 belts of each grit. replacement belts will probably last longer in the future but testing out the work sharp on all my pocket knives, it was making my work easy. you do have to be careful. when I started buying knifes, most were over the counter cheap steel pocket knives and I did break the tips off a couple and then they sat in the drawer. you have to stop the grinding on the tip, not to pull through past the tip bc they said it would ground down the tip. on my broken tipped knives, I went ahead and pulled through the belt and yes it does in fact ground it down but I was able to reshape a new tip
 
I really like my KME. I picked up the "Beast" stone for reprofiling and taking out chips. I like that it gives me the option to use the stand if I want to sit at the bench or the pistol grip if I want to use it while sitting on the couch or laying in bed. It's worth every penny.
 

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Over the years I have sharpened my knives using various systems:
  1. freehand on a stone
  2. paid a professional to do it
  3. Lansky 5 stone + leather hone set
  4. Tormek
nr. 4 looks like it might turn into a happy long lasting relationship.
 
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Sharpening knives is very similar to reloading in that you can get great results with some Lee equipment and carry-on. Or you can get super meticulous about it and spend thousands of dollars on Tormek and associated equipment just how we do with reloading and zero presses AMP annealeez, Triebel dies, Giraud trimmers, and what not. Which will make a far superior result to your blades (more so than a Zero press will to your reloads, IMHO). You will have to decide if it’s worth it and how far you want to go with it. With the Tormek, you can do drill bits, scissors, planer blades, wood chisels, and every other blade in your home as an added benefit - but the jigs are not cheap (Made in Sweden). None of the Tormek stuff is - because it's worth it.
 

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whatever you guys do, I encourage you to actually measure your results with one of these gizmos. What you thought was "razor sharp" is probably not as sharp as you thought it was. It changes everything. It's like actually shooting your ammo you reloaded to see how accurate it is


If you don't want to spend the money on this, I suggest this as a surrogate test (hair shaving is garbage): Push cut (no slicing, just straight pushing down) a cash register receipt. If you can do/cut that, you're near or less than 100 grams on the BESS scale, which is about 0.1 micron apex width.
 
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Worksharp. Course belt to get the edge back on, fine belt to polish it up.

Used a lanskey for years. It's slow. It does some things like razors or ice auger blades perfectly, so I'll never not have one.

99% of the time from my pocket knives, to fillet knives, and kitchen knives I reach for the worksharp because I can have a knife sharp as hell in 2 minutes.
 
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whatever you guys do, I encourage you to actually measure your results with one of these gizmos. What you thought was "razor sharp" is probably not as sharp as you thought it was. It changes everything. It's like actually shooting your ammo you reloaded to see how accurate it is


If you don't want to spend the money on this, I suggest this as a surrogate test (hair shaving is garbage): Push cut (no slicing, just straight pushing down) a cash register receipt. If you can do/cut that, you're near or less than 100 grams on the BESS scale, which is about 0.1 micron apex width.


Are you competing in a sharpening competition?

I'm not sure what you'll gain by knowing how sharp your knives are. In reality as long as they're sharp though to work it's all that matters.

You'll have someone chasing their tail to put a steep razor edge on a steel that can't handle it, and it'll just roll quickly. I know, I tried. I prefer D2 tool steel for it's ability to take and hold an edge now. Before I knew better I chased my tail on a few pocket knives that were scary sharp for about 5 minutes and then were next to useless.
 
If you put on a proper edge on a blade, the edge will last longer - much longer. I’m not recommending a $1000 machine to sharpen a $5 pocketknife in a frustrating cycle of “tail chasing”. Personally, I adjust my sharpening process to the steel I’m sharpening, so I don’t have that problem - positive versus negative burrs, apex angle, secondary bevel etc.

The reason that you measure sharpness is so that you can make the necessary adjustments to put on a better edge. If you do like most people, and like I did for decades and get it to the point where it’ll shave some hair off your arm, then pat yourself on the back for your “scary sharp” edge, you won’t learn anything about putting on a truly good edge, which is much sharper than “arm shaving” sharp.

I offered advice on high end professional sharpening equipment, and a way to MEASURE the results. If you’re not interested, carry on. If your ammo is “good enough” with Lee equipment and a torch with a spark plug socket attached to a drill, I’m not going to try to talk you into a Prazipress and an AMP annealer. But I can point out that they’re available, can’t I? Or is the motto:

“If ignorance is bliss, then ‘tis folly to be wise.”
 
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By the way, do yourselves a favor and avoid this style of "pull through sharpeners", unless you're buying throw-away knives. They sharpen the blade unevenly, eventually making it concave, with inadequate sharpening of the heel and tip, and too much in the middle. THey're for amateurs, with junk knifes that can be ruined without grief

 
I ended up with a wicked edge after trying a lot of cheaper options. I've been very happy with it, definitely worth the money if you like sharp knives. I'd still like to try a tormek but I don't know if I'll ever spend the money on one.
 
I used to use stones and sharpening was almost a hobby. Did a lot of leatherwork so I was constantly dulling blades and had to resharpen quite often. Started using those paper wheels on a grinder did a really good and fast job, less than a minute to touch up a blade. For kitchen stuff I use the Ken onion work sharp