what neck bushings to buy?

[little_scrapper]

I am using an AR10 firing various years of M118LR. Reloading 175 SMK's

I measured the necks of 4x of my re-loaded rounds and all were .3375". I measured about 8x fired brass and upon spinning them in the calipers I get between .342 and .345" on every one.

So assuming max of .345"-.346; do I need to neck size in two stages? For example .340" then to .336"? Giving .0015" neck tension?

 

[Supersubes]

One step would be fine.

 

[little_scrapper]

Really??? I heard going like .010" in one step was bad.

 

[Dthomas3523]

Really??? I heard going like .010" in one step was bad.

One step is probably fine. If you start having issues with crushing shoulders, do two steps.

Also, asking a question you already seem to have an opinion on and reacting that way when you get an answer that doesn’t fall in-line with it is not a good way to get helpful replies.

 

[little_scrapper]

Wasnt trying to "react" any kind of way. had heard was supposed to go down like 6-8 thou at a time and was supprised to hear just go for it. Although, when I thought about it I realized my current full body die was certainly doing WAY more. So was just looking for confirmation. I know I need the .336" so I ordered it. As you said, if I have any issues I can always order the intermediate size.

Thanks,

L_S

 

[FLIGHT762]

The largest neck bushing I use is a .337", which is used for once fired Federal commercial brass. The smallest bushing I use is .330" for the older, thin Winchester brass. I also have .335" & .333" for brass in between (Remington and Hornady) brass and so I can adjust neck tension.

When sizing once fired Federal brass, I just go one step @ .337" from whatever the fired outside neck size is. If I'm sizing the Winchester brass, I'll go .337" then down to .330".

I've read German Salizar's article regarding not sizing down too much. I've done my own tests and found I didn't really gain any better accuracy going down in steps.
I shoot 4 precision 308 rifles. 2- bolt guns and two gas guns, a SR-25 and a GAP 10. I did discover that my SR-25 shot a bit better using .003" neck tension.

After going through all of buying $125.00 in bushings, I found using a Lee N/O collet die with a Redding body die made ammo that was just as or more accurate as the bushing ammo.

What you should do is to load up some ammo and shoot with the current bushing you have and see where that takes you before getting more bushings.

If you want to spend a bunch of $$$$ on bushings, go for it.

 

[little_scrapper]

I dont have ANY bushings. Just starting out. I was using a Redding full body die with the expander ball. M118LR brass. Getting very inconsistent shoulders.

I suspect pulling a ball through a neck that has been sized with a die that assumes the absolute thinnest brass; was causing hard ball drag and pulling the shoulders. **SHRUG** My shoulder bumps were varying by like 5 thou. From like 1.619 to 1.624"

It was recommended to use a bushing die. Therefore, in order to get consistency I ordered a set of precision case holders, a Redding full body bushing die and a micrometer seating die. I am hoping to get a more consistent shoulder bump, neck tension and seating depth. Will probably just sell my Redding full body die set just to offset the cost.

Anyone want to buy a Redding 3 die set? Only used two of the dies. Sizing and seating. About 200 rounds loaded. Not even broken in yet.

 

[FLIGHT762]

Inconsistent case lubing can cause inconsistent shoulder bumps. Also allow the case to dwell in the F/L sizing die 1-2 seconds before lowering the ram. I'll even run the case twice into the die. The second time, just lower the ram a bit before the expander ball hits the neck and run the case back into the die. What sizing lube are you using? Even a regular F/L die shouldn't be causing .005" inconsistent bumps.

 

[little_scrapper]

Squirting that lube onto the green tray (RCBS?) and rolling the cases then finger the necks with lubed fingers. Use the neck brush to hit the inside of the necks.

 

[FLIGHT762]

Just as a test, try some other lube. See what you may have at home. Kiwi mink oil, snow seal, synthetic motor oil (have to use sparingly to avoid shoulder dents) chap stick, bag balm, petroleum jelly.

Just personal preference, but i ditched the RCBS case pad / lube method in the 1970's. I didn't like it. My commercial favorites are Imperial wax and the alcohol / lanolin like Dillon lube. Favorite alternatives is mink oil, 70W synthetic gear lube.

I retires a few years ago. I have a lot of time on my hands and did a lot of lube testing. I did find out that inconsistent applied lube caused shoulder bumps to be erratic.