I'm always up around 25X and I'm beginning to think that is hurting me. I'm watching these other guys and they are getting their shots off way faster than I am. I think its because it's taking me to long to get settled in on the target. I mean my center dot is moving all over the place and it takes me a minute to get calmed down enough to take the shot. I rarely finish any of the stages because I run out of time. I think my time is going to making the shot, not moving from point to point. .......please feel free to corect me where I need to be corrected.
12-15 usually. Rarely ever above 20x unless it’s prone and long distance. If you’re taking too long to locate, dial down to 8-10x find it and dial up.
It took me a while before I realized that running at 12-15 power, and even at 10 power depending on the stage, is quicker for target acquisition. Like already said, I only dial up in power when shooting smaller targets at larger distances and on my belly. Usually, these have set target distances. If I need to move quickly and locate targets under time, I’m dialed down again.
I shoot at higher power than most but it depends on the stage. If I’m going to be panning/searching for targets I’ll start at 15x. If I’m pounding away at the same target and have a good field for natural point of aim vs natural terrain (i.e. PRS barricade stage on a lone berm, 400 yards) I might start at 18-20x. Distance matters as well since field of view is a function of distance. I do see a lot of new shooters starting too high on magnification searching. I’ve shot more rounds than I care to admit to get to a point where I put my rifle on a barricade or the ground and when I look through the tube the target should be there.
25x is too much. You really should only hit that in a prone troop line scenario or KYL rack.
25x is too much. You really should only hit that in a prone troop line scenario or KYL rack.
Nobody said this yet....
But the lower power is not only for “finding” targets, it is also for smoothing the visual and calming the mind for a better trigger press..
Most importantly, for staying on target to see the miss or impact
But the lower power is not only for “finding” targets, it is also for smoothing the visual and calming the mind for a better trigger press..
Most importantly, for staying on target to see the miss or impact
The one stage I did really well on was 2 shots each @ 300, 350, 400, 500, 600. I set my dope for 400 and used my ret. for hold under and over for the other shots and I went 9 for 10 . I been practicing using my ret. and I was pleased how that stage turned out.
10x for movers and extremely high mirage.
12-18x for most everything else.
12-18x for most everything else.
Also worth noting, unless targets are pretty close together or in the same FOV, don’t be searching while on glass.
Look over the optic and get settled behind the rifle. If it’s not close by, you’ll need to adjust your position for NPA anyway. So faster to look over the optic instead of through it.
Look over the optic and get settled behind the rifle. If it’s not close by, you’ll need to adjust your position for NPA anyway. So faster to look over the optic instead of through it.
But my scope caps are so big and only work in the vertical position — lol
I’m an odd ball, i shoot pretty much everything 20-27x and just manage recoil like a mofo unless it’s a giant target close with a really tight time
If I zoom out too far my right eye (non dominant) has a hard time focusing with everything smaller
I don’t search for targets with the scope...find it with the eye, kill it with the scope
If I zoom out too far my right eye (non dominant) has a hard time focusing with everything smaller
I don’t search for targets with the scope...find it with the eye, kill it with the scope
12-18x here, unless it's a dedicated prone stage, long range KYL, etc where target discrimination at distance is needed. That said, I am in the SE where movement and lateral target changes are quite common, so dialing up too much can make it a pain to get on target, even with good body indexing.
Mostly 14-16. Sometime less of more depending on whats going on. If it's s long range price stage I might max it out, but for the most part I don't touch it all day.
12x almost always. I run a Mark 5 3.6-18 and if I put the throw knob/lever straight up at 12 oclock it’s basically right on 12x.
Only time I crank it up to 18 is long range prone, 900 yards and beyond.
Only time I crank it up to 18 is long range prone, 900 yards and beyond.
I'm usually in the 15x range.
Like said above, find target with naked eye, build position, and then transition to looking at target in scope. IMO you should never be doing the "zoom out, hunt around, zoom in" with the scope magnification.
Like said above, find target with naked eye, build position, and then transition to looking at target in scope. IMO you should never be doing the "zoom out, hunt around, zoom in" with the scope magnification.
Don't waste you time with wearing out a barrel looking to gain a 1/2" at 300 yards when the targets at that range are 5 inches anyway.
10-15x
Probably 90% of the day on 12x unless its a wide field of fire, then I'll back down to 10.
If its a prone stage and the targets are relatively close, I might do 15-18 for that stage.
Probably 90% of the day on 12x unless its a wide field of fire, then I'll back down to 10.
If its a prone stage and the targets are relatively close, I might do 15-18 for that stage.
9-12x unless prone distance then crank it up!
I agree. The zoom out, find target, zoom in thing is a time sink that leads to a lot of guys rushing shots and/or timing out. Practicing the above will help you acquire your target quickly regardless of what power you are on.
At the PRS Afghanistan matches, I always used 10-15x depending on what I pulled.
Anything over that and FOV became a liability as well as the mirage was insane at times.
Anything over that and FOV became a liability as well as the mirage was insane at times.
Not sure if it’s “right” or not, but I’ve recently been getting into the habit when I get behind the optic if I don’t immediately see the target or a landmark extremely close to it, I get back off the optic and reposition quickly.
I feel like it’s faster target acquisition and better for natural point of aim to come off the optic than it is to search.
I feel like it’s faster target acquisition and better for natural point of aim to come off the optic than it is to search.
went and bought me an egg timer and went to the range today. Turned my power down to about 12X , I put 90 seconds on the clock. The first thing I did was do a few dry runs on the clock. I could really tell right off the bat I was faster. I probably did the dry runs for about 45 minutes. Then I went Live fire. I started on the 500yd target. still a tad shaky, but not as bad as it was. I think I hit 8 out of 10 . …...thanks for all the advise.
10-14x is where it’s at.
Scope manufacturers are great at marketing high power scopes, but for most field type shooting 4-16 / 5-20 power is perfect
Scope manufacturers are great at marketing high power scopes, but for most field type shooting 4-16 / 5-20 power is perfect
my next question would be with say just your rifle resting on a game changer bag, what is the best way to steady your rifle when you get behind it?
I was wondering his too, I see a lot of scopes in the 24x and above, but then I read Frank himself is usually around 18x . So depending on the quality of the sight picture at that magnification I’d think a 18x-20x would do fine. I guess having extra magnification available just in case is a nice luxury?
I usually shoot on 14x
12-18x here pal, stretching the rifle up to 900yds.
10-16 for me...if i go higher, ill index my caps with the target and that will almost always put me on tgt
I've been running at 18-20 on all positional stuff this year. I switched to this after talking with quite a few top shooters that run higher mag. I definitely agree that I would recommend starting at 12-15 when someone is newer, and I also agree that alot of top shooters run 15x also. But it also makes sense, that if thru practice I can build a steady position, and I dont lose my target during recoil, and I dont have problems finding targets because I practice indexing on each target before going on glass, why wouldn't I run a higher mag? I have been able to spot more impacts, more plate movement, and more exact impacts at 20x than i could at 15x. As @superde said, "why have the best glass in the world and not use it to its potential?" Of course a dasher, wax canvas fortune cookie, and tangent theta sure makes all the above alot easier....
Let the flaming begin!!
Let the flaming begin!!
I add this- what works at your home range monthly shoot, might not be the best for a new location.
Steady or not, some targets might not be easily distinguishable with the naked eye from another, having a larger FOV to get in more of the land marks is never a bad idea.. especially on a brand new range with targets that need to be confirmed on glass.
Steady or not, some targets might not be easily distinguishable with the naked eye from another, having a larger FOV to get in more of the land marks is never a bad idea.. especially on a brand new range with targets that need to be confirmed on glass.
That's the key part right there. You've got to be able to pop right on target in scope the second you hit position though, otherwise the lost time will bite you. I've found myself drifting a bit higher in magnification sometimes, but when it's a target out in the middle of nothing but sagebrush or on a blank hillside then it gets a bit riskier that you'll miss then be "hunting through a straw" for the target.
RO’d a match yesterday. You have two types of shooters:
1: those that look over top of their optic and index the rifle towards the target or landmark. These shooters typically take the time before they shoot to find the target/landmark with binos and/or range it.
2: those that kinda get a general idea where the target is and then hunt around with their optic on the clock.
Typically if the type 1 shooter doesnt have the target in their optic when they get down or at last very quickly after, they pick their head back up and re index quickly.
Type 2 shooters keep hunting with the optic.
I’d suggest you try to be a type 1 shooter and use whatever the highest power is that allows you to do this and also minimizes mirage, depending on environmental and topographical conditions. Everyone is different physically and skill wise, so don’t pigeonhole yourself into what power they use to accomplish this.
And definitely don’t take advice on mag power or rifle indexing from the type 2 if you see them.
1: those that look over top of their optic and index the rifle towards the target or landmark. These shooters typically take the time before they shoot to find the target/landmark with binos and/or range it.
2: those that kinda get a general idea where the target is and then hunt around with their optic on the clock.
Typically if the type 1 shooter doesnt have the target in their optic when they get down or at last very quickly after, they pick their head back up and re index quickly.
Type 2 shooters keep hunting with the optic.
I’d suggest you try to be a type 1 shooter and use whatever the highest power is that allows you to do this and also minimizes mirage, depending on environmental and topographical conditions. Everyone is different physically and skill wise, so don’t pigeonhole yourself into what power they use to accomplish this.
And definitely don’t take advice on mag power or rifle indexing from the type 2 if you see them.
Type 1 for sure. If you grab the mag ring and pan out and start searching, something has gone wrong.
Shot the NRL match in CO last weekend and there were some stages where the target was absolutely nothing but a tiny plate poking up out of a huge field of sagebrush. You needed to index clearly off other reference markers in order to find it. No amount of panning around would work effectively.
Shot the NRL match in CO last weekend and there were some stages where the target was absolutely nothing but a tiny plate poking up out of a huge field of sagebrush. You needed to index clearly off other reference markers in order to find it. No amount of panning around would work effectively.
I typically run between 11-15X. The only time I really dial up is for KYL racks or similar. Like several others have said already, it really helped me find targets quicker and get my shots off faster. I also agree that at lower magnification, there’s less perceived wobble, which also makes me feel a little more accurate. Just me though! I shoot a lot of field style matches in a lot of different terrain.
Agreed. I think having the mag ring backed down and then turning it up *once* when you get on target is acceptable.
But having it turned up and having to turn it down (and maybe back up) is definitely not good.
In some situations I suppose so. But so much stuff is multiple target transition and reacquire in short time frame that I would encourage people to not be in the habit of doing that.
Yesterday there were stages that 80-90% of the competitors were timing out on. It would be better I think for people to get that extra shot off rather than adjust magnification.
I wouldn’t advise changing magnification on a multiple target stage. Things I factor in:
Mirage (in my location, this has about the biggest impact on magnification)
Topography
Single or multi target
Stability of wobble zone
Recoil management
I try to be at the maximum power that allows me to:
Mitigate mirage
Find my targets
Maintain an acceptable sight picture
Account for all shots
Meaning:
Less mirage = higher power
Easy to find target = higher power
Single target = higher power
Smaller wobble = higher power
Ability to mitigate recoil better + confident my misses won’t be far off target to require a larger FOV = higher power
And down here, during the summer months, mirage dictates 99% of the time. If I can’t get over 12x without a lot of mirage, there’s no need to worry with the rest.
Same with any of those. The minute any of them restrict me to a certain power, the consideration is done.
I just shot two matches in a row with the same magnification setting. 11-12 on a razor gen 2. Never felt the need to move it or zoom in. Just left it and went. Did just fine.
Biggest thing I see with newer shooters besides slapping the trigger is starting stages at 25x. They cant find targets. And then once they zoom out to find it they just go to 25 again anyways for 2 shots. Rinse and repeat.
Biggest thing I see with newer shooters besides slapping the trigger is starting stages at 25x. They cant find targets. And then once they zoom out to find it they just go to 25 again anyways for 2 shots. Rinse and repeat.
Depends on the match but usually around 10-12x for most of the match. I will adjust up for longer targets if I have time or for KYL stages but usually I leave it on 10x-12x all day. Field matches where targets are somewhat hidden within the natural terrain it helps to be as low as possible to find them and that's why I usually just leave it on 10x.
At the Hornady PRS match this last weekend I was on 10x most of the time due to all stages being 90 seconds with multiple positions and targets per stage. This was using the Minox MR4.
At the Hornady PRS match this last weekend I was on 10x most of the time due to all stages being 90 seconds with multiple positions and targets per stage. This was using the Minox MR4.
I usually hang out around 15x. Still have a decent field of view for target acquisition.
I’ve gotten to where I rarely take my theta off 25x (I mention it’s a theta because IMO, they really cut down on the mirage).
I practice acquiring targets a lot. So when I get behind the optic, I rarely have to move much. When I do, it’s usually because I picked a landmark near the target and used that first.
If it’s multiple targets not in the same line of sight, I’ll back it down to 15x or 20x.
I’m finding that I’m able to spot my impacts/misses better at 25x and correct to center faster. The last three club level matches I’ve been doing this have been 3rd, 1st, and 4th (just to emphasize that using high magnification can work).
I practice acquiring targets a lot. So when I get behind the optic, I rarely have to move much. When I do, it’s usually because I picked a landmark near the target and used that first.
If it’s multiple targets not in the same line of sight, I’ll back it down to 15x or 20x.
I’m finding that I’m able to spot my impacts/misses better at 25x and correct to center faster. The last three club level matches I’ve been doing this have been 3rd, 1st, and 4th (just to emphasize that using high magnification can work).
Most of the time I'm at 10x-15x. If I'm doing pure holds at 800-1000 it's usually in the 8x-12x range due to my reticle design.
I'm at 10.5X all the time unless it's a prone KYL-type stage, then I'll zoom in to 20x, or if it's positional including offhand I'll drop down to 6x. It just keeps everything more simple for me, much easier target acquisition and less stress on the clock.
