Rifle Scopes What successful process have you used when mounting the scope to the rifle?
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It’s been rehashed 100 times but there’s no need to have the scope level to the rifle. The only thing that matters is that the scope is level to the earth when you pull the trigger. Get in position, address the rifle, make any adjustments on the stock/chassis so the rifle fits you comfortably and naturally; then level the scope to that position. My rifles are all canted toward my head a fair amount when my scope is level.
SITELITE
easy to use. Only issue is the red laser is not visible in daylight. I just wait until dusk. Once I get a good level, I adjust the eye relief. after that I use my neighbors chimney which is about 75 yds away and align the crosshair center with the laser spot. I am 9x out of 10 within inches of my aimed spot @ 50 yds. the tapered portion is magnetic and the stem is aligned with a snug o ring. I usually only have issues with stainless barrels or muzzle devices. For the most part I mount and zero 5~6 scopes a month.
I hang a plumb bob (sometimes a field expedient rock tied to a string) mount the rifle and plumb the reticle to the string. Boom! Bob’s your Uncle......
If you wanna level both, that’s fine too. I know of three good ways, all require a flat spot on the stock or action. Level the stock/action, then:
1) Hang a plumb line at distance, align the vertical reticle to the line (requires some space, ideally 30-50 yds minimum)
2) Toss a clear water jug on the ground at distance, about half full, then align the horizontal reticle to the water line (requires some space, etc)
3) Mark the diopter setting on your scope, then hang a thin string a couple inches off a light-colored wall (I use dental floss) with a weight on it. Set the butt of the rifle near the wall, then shine a bright flashlight into the objective lens. Adjust the rifle location and diopter setting to make the reticle shadow clear on the wall, then align it to the string shadow.
I usually use option 3, even though it’s more complicated, because I can do it anytime in the house with no distance required (I live in the city).
1) Hang a plumb line at distance, align the vertical reticle to the line (requires some space, ideally 30-50 yds minimum)
2) Toss a clear water jug on the ground at distance, about half full, then align the horizontal reticle to the water line (requires some space, etc)
3) Mark the diopter setting on your scope, then hang a thin string a couple inches off a light-colored wall (I use dental floss) with a weight on it. Set the butt of the rifle near the wall, then shine a bright flashlight into the objective lens. Adjust the rifle location and diopter setting to make the reticle shadow clear on the wall, then align it to the string shadow.
I usually use option 3, even though it’s more complicated, because I can do it anytime in the house with no distance required (I live in the city).
For leveling the scope to the rifle, this is what I use:
For checking if the reticle is level, a plumb bob is not a bad idea. Generally, if reticle is severely canted you can kinda see it without any tools.
ILya
For checking if the reticle is level, a plumb bob is not a bad idea. Generally, if reticle is severely canted you can kinda see it without any tools.
ILya
I use a plumb bob as well.
Level rifle, level mounts, then level scope.
I have two Swarovski scopes on rails, I would kill for tactical scopes to be built this way.
Level rifle, level mounts, then level scope.
I have two Swarovski scopes on rails, I would kill for tactical scopes to be built this way.
Here's my method.
- Find a quality level like you would use around the house for construction or small projects.
- Use whatever surface you want (table, countertop, kitchen island), just verify it's level
- Place scope rings on that same surface assembled with tops on.
- Check the rings are level while sitting on the surface you selected.
- Remove the ring tops, place your scope onto the ring bases.
Here's where it gets fun.
- Check the scope is level end to end, side to side. Leave the level on top the scope. Rotate the scope till it's level.
- Place the top caps on the rings. Carefully tighten the caps down to basic finger tight so the scope doesn't move in the rings.
- Check the scope is still level end to end, side to side.
- Placing the scope onto the rifle you may need to move the rings to fit the correct position. If so just double check it's level as above.
Doing the above on my kitchen island helped me work the D.O.P.E. on my second hand Hide bought SA700 w/ Leupold, less than ten rounds the scope was sighted in. Rifle does what I want it to.
BTW your scope base isn't level if you are using a 20 MOA base.
Sure you can do most of the above with a weapons vise or cradle. You just need a level. Pretty simple.
- Find a quality level like you would use around the house for construction or small projects.
- Use whatever surface you want (table, countertop, kitchen island), just verify it's level
- Place scope rings on that same surface assembled with tops on.
- Check the rings are level while sitting on the surface you selected.
- Remove the ring tops, place your scope onto the ring bases.
Here's where it gets fun.
- Check the scope is level end to end, side to side. Leave the level on top the scope. Rotate the scope till it's level.
- Place the top caps on the rings. Carefully tighten the caps down to basic finger tight so the scope doesn't move in the rings.
- Check the scope is still level end to end, side to side.
- Placing the scope onto the rifle you may need to move the rings to fit the correct position. If so just double check it's level as above.
Doing the above on my kitchen island helped me work the D.O.P.E. on my second hand Hide bought SA700 w/ Leupold, less than ten rounds the scope was sighted in. Rifle does what I want it to.
BTW your scope base isn't level if you are using a 20 MOA base.
Sure you can do most of the above with a weapons vise or cradle. You just need a level. Pretty simple.
