Gunsmithing which airbrush for finishing
- Thread starter tjonh2001
- Start date
Re: which airbrush for finishing
water reducer on your compressor and I use a Pache airbrush. they can be found at any hobby store for about 100 bucks. It will come with a glass vile. good luck
water reducer on your compressor and I use a Pache airbrush. they can be found at any hobby store for about 100 bucks. It will come with a glass vile. good luck
Re: which airbrush for finishing
Harbor Freight has a small HVLP gun for around $50, anything in that range will work. Some use the Badger 350 and the compact DeVilbiss products as well but they cost a little more. I prefer to use the gravity feed compact HVLP guns for larger work and the Air Brush for smaller work.
Harbor Freight has a small HVLP gun for around $50, anything in that range will work. Some use the Badger 350 and the compact DeVilbiss products as well but they cost a little more. I prefer to use the gravity feed compact HVLP guns for larger work and the Air Brush for smaller work.
Re: which airbrush for finishing
I owned a bodyshop for most of my life is how I'll qualify this. Go here and read,
it's short.
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Airbrush_Info.asp
This would be my choice, ebay is where I would go to buy it.
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Badger_150.asp
I owned a bodyshop for most of my life is how I'll qualify this. Go here and read,
it's short.
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Airbrush_Info.asp
This would be my choice, ebay is where I would go to buy it.
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Badger_150.asp
Re: which airbrush for finishing
I used a small TITAN touch-up gun (HVLP) to do several spray jobs with the Duracoat product.
I tried an airbrush, but found that if I mixed the product with more of the catalyst than pygment, the airbrush lacked the pressure to push the product and atomize it effectivly. The TITAN HVLP was just the right size, and produced an outstanding factory finish.
Remember: it's all in the prep! Don't get in a rush, and clean the hell out of whatever you are putting a finish on prior to spraying.
I used a small TITAN touch-up gun (HVLP) to do several spray jobs with the Duracoat product.
I tried an airbrush, but found that if I mixed the product with more of the catalyst than pygment, the airbrush lacked the pressure to push the product and atomize it effectivly. The TITAN HVLP was just the right size, and produced an outstanding factory finish.
Remember: it's all in the prep! Don't get in a rush, and clean the hell out of whatever you are putting a finish on prior to spraying.
Re: which airbrush for finishing
If you're going to buy an airbrush, look at the manufacturer's website for Blems; you can easily save 50% or more off retail.
If you're going to buy an airbrush, look at the manufacturer's website for Blems; you can easily save 50% or more off retail.
Re: which airbrush for finishing
I have a Badger as well, it is easy to use, and gives consistent results...
I have a Badger as well, it is easy to use, and gives consistent results...
Re: which airbrush for finishing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Harbor Freight has a small HVLP gun for around $50, anything in that range will work. Some use the Badger 350 and the compact DeVilbiss products as well but they cost a little more. I prefer to use the gravity feed compact HVLP guns for larger work and the Air Brush for smaller work. </div></div>
+1 on this setup. I have the small Speedway Series HVLP gravity guns for the big work. I use the Pache VL3 airbrush for the detail and small work. It's not a gravity fed brush but I have used them for the last 19 years and they are as tough as nails. I got my blast cabinet from Harbor Freight as well. A moisture trap on your air is a good investment too.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Harbor Freight has a small HVLP gun for around $50, anything in that range will work. Some use the Badger 350 and the compact DeVilbiss products as well but they cost a little more. I prefer to use the gravity feed compact HVLP guns for larger work and the Air Brush for smaller work. </div></div>
+1 on this setup. I have the small Speedway Series HVLP gravity guns for the big work. I use the Pache VL3 airbrush for the detail and small work. It's not a gravity fed brush but I have used them for the last 19 years and they are as tough as nails. I got my blast cabinet from Harbor Freight as well. A moisture trap on your air is a good investment too.
Re: which airbrush for finishing
All the mentioned guns are great choices for the home user doing occasional spray job. Definitely get a moisture trap/filter, I use 2 inline I think its so important, especially in high humidity. I also recommend putting the filter as close in line to the gun as you can for the most effectiveness.
And as an add on to this thread since the topics go hand in hand, how about suggestions for a decent equivalent quality blaster for the home user? We all agree prep is king, so anybody have suggestions on that?
All the mentioned guns are great choices for the home user doing occasional spray job. Definitely get a moisture trap/filter, I use 2 inline I think its so important, especially in high humidity. I also recommend putting the filter as close in line to the gun as you can for the most effectiveness.
And as an add on to this thread since the topics go hand in hand, how about suggestions for a decent equivalent quality blaster for the home user? We all agree prep is king, so anybody have suggestions on that?
Re: which airbrush for finishing
I am using the stand up cabinet from Horbor Freight. I filled it with 120 grit Alu. Oxide. Run the air @ 45 to 60 psi. depending on the metal I am blasting. I first degrease the parts with Trustrip (Duracoat product) and then blast. After blasting I dip in the Trustrip again and blow them dry with the air hose. Then I parkerize and coat or just coat ( depending on the customers request or the part). Very important to DEGREASE before blasting.
I am using the stand up cabinet from Horbor Freight. I filled it with 120 grit Alu. Oxide. Run the air @ 45 to 60 psi. depending on the metal I am blasting. I first degrease the parts with Trustrip (Duracoat product) and then blast. After blasting I dip in the Trustrip again and blow them dry with the air hose. Then I parkerize and coat or just coat ( depending on the customers request or the part). Very important to DEGREASE before blasting.
Re: which airbrush for finishing
For basic firearms finish, I use Master Airbrush Model G33
I got it on ebay from seller tcpglobal, they are great to deal with.
auction link
About $69 and has 3 tips for different patterns from fine to general spray of small projects. Works well with dura coat. I can post up pics of a couple rifles if you want. I am not a pro finisher, just a do it yourself occasional user.
For basic firearms finish, I use Master Airbrush Model G33
I got it on ebay from seller tcpglobal, they are great to deal with.
auction link
About $69 and has 3 tips for different patterns from fine to general spray of small projects. Works well with dura coat. I can post up pics of a couple rifles if you want. I am not a pro finisher, just a do it yourself occasional user.
Re: which airbrush for finishing
This is a stock image of the airbrush I now use for small detail work. These are good but not for complete barreled receivers.
This is a stock image of the airbrush I now use for small detail work. These are good but not for complete barreled receivers.
Re: which airbrush for finishing
Paasche VL or Paasche Millenium with the #5 needle kits work good.
Paasche VL or Paasche Millenium with the #5 needle kits work good.
Re: which airbrush for finishing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chpprguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a Badger as well, it is easy to use, and gives consistent results... </div></div>
1+
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chpprguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a Badger as well, it is easy to use, and gives consistent results... </div></div>
1+
Re: which airbrush for finishing
I use a Paasche also. I plan on getting an Iwata for detail work.
It what the guy uses that does the amazing work with skulls
and scrollwork. I think his name is Jeremy. GAP had one of his guns at SHOT. His work is amazing....
I use a Paasche also. I plan on getting an Iwata for detail work.
It what the guy uses that does the amazing work with skulls
and scrollwork. I think his name is Jeremy. GAP had one of his guns at SHOT. His work is amazing....
Re: which airbrush for finishing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ARPredatorHunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Paasche VL or Paasche Millenium with the #5 needle kits work good. </div></div>
+1, I do use my paashe for barreled actions, it does take awhile, but you also probably have less overspray.
I also spray alot of tint on wood stocks, it works VERY well with the #5 tip, I also make sure my compressor is charged up a few hours before I need it and I use two moisture traps, I woudl really like to get a passive tank as well someday.
I spray usually between 20-30 psi on norrells and my wood dies
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ARPredatorHunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Paasche VL or Paasche Millenium with the #5 needle kits work good. </div></div>
+1, I do use my paashe for barreled actions, it does take awhile, but you also probably have less overspray.
I also spray alot of tint on wood stocks, it works VERY well with the #5 tip, I also make sure my compressor is charged up a few hours before I need it and I use two moisture traps, I woudl really like to get a passive tank as well someday.
I spray usually between 20-30 psi on norrells and my wood dies
Re: which airbrush for finishing
iwata is an awesome airbrush that is all i will own. on the hvlp side the number one is sata ya your gonna pay more for both but with proper cleaning and care they will outlast anything. as for prep i never paint over anything but 600 grit if your going to prime you can leave it at 180 grit
iwata is an awesome airbrush that is all i will own. on the hvlp side the number one is sata ya your gonna pay more for both but with proper cleaning and care they will outlast anything. as for prep i never paint over anything but 600 grit if your going to prime you can leave it at 180 grit
Re: which airbrush for finishing
Iwata single action is what I use for Duracoat, Ceracoat, leather coloring, etc. and works well for all. Spray pattern can be adjusted for coating complete handguns or small parts, though largest part I've tried to coat with it was a Mosin Nagant barreled receiver but pattern was still pretty good for that.
The only HVLP gravity feed spray gun I got on Ebay leaked more than it sprayed on first use so I abandoned that and now use the Iwata exclusively. Will probably look for another one later but my compressor may not be enough to handle it.
Iwata single action is what I use for Duracoat, Ceracoat, leather coloring, etc. and works well for all. Spray pattern can be adjusted for coating complete handguns or small parts, though largest part I've tried to coat with it was a Mosin Nagant barreled receiver but pattern was still pretty good for that.
The only HVLP gravity feed spray gun I got on Ebay leaked more than it sprayed on first use so I abandoned that and now use the Iwata exclusively. Will probably look for another one later but my compressor may not be enough to handle it.
Re: which airbrush for finishing
I had thought about trying out rifle painting and doing better than rattle cans. was walking through my favorite pawn shop looking for deals today and found a little no-name compressor with water filter and busted pressure guage for $25.
I went to buy it and a guy hollered at me and said this bag goes with it. He brought over a good sized tool bag full of hoses and bottles and a tupperware box. inside the tupperware box was three airbrushes.
I got a Biddiscombe, a Vega 2000 and an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS, all are bottom feed. The Iwata looks almost new, and the others look like they've been around awhile.....just need some paint now so I can practice and learn to use this stuff.
I had thought about trying out rifle painting and doing better than rattle cans. was walking through my favorite pawn shop looking for deals today and found a little no-name compressor with water filter and busted pressure guage for $25.
I went to buy it and a guy hollered at me and said this bag goes with it. He brought over a good sized tool bag full of hoses and bottles and a tupperware box. inside the tupperware box was three airbrushes.
I got a Biddiscombe, a Vega 2000 and an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS, all are bottom feed. The Iwata looks almost new, and the others look like they've been around awhile.....just need some paint now so I can practice and learn to use this stuff.
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