• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

  • Site updates coming next Wednesday at 8am CT!

    The site will be down for routine maintenance on Wednesday 6/5 starting at 8am CT. If you have any questions, please PM alexj-12!

Gunsmithing Which torque screwdriver to get

A

Alabama556

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
    • May 15, 2008
    555
    112
    49
    Birmingham, AL
    I need a torque screwdriver for action screws and scope mount screws. Can anybody recommend a certain torque driver in inch pounds?
     
    Diver160651 said:
    Wouldn't it be nice if your torque wrench could actually be used for both ring to tube tension but also the rings to base?? Some scope to base rings require 2x what that wrench is rated at.. Oh action screws screws too


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Click to expand...

    I use fixed seekonk to wrenches for anything above 30 in/lbs. they are pricey...but much stronger and more accurate than the fat wrench.
     
    Which torque screwdriver to get

    Reality is you won't find a single precision, quality torque wrench that will cover that entire range.

    Borka is quality...and great for field use but I would not consider it a precision unit.

    If I could only have one it would be the borka...but thankfully we don't have to stick with just one.
     
    Last edited:
    Philotimos said:
    I have noticed people spending $3000 on a scope, $400 on mounts and trying to save the most on the tool that is there to secure them. It makes no sense. I myself have a wiha and recently bought a borka(Used here on the Hide).
    Click to expand...

    Wiha for 10-50 on bases and rings on the bench at home, and Borka for action screws and everything on the road.
     
    The only rings I have used that have a higher spec are the Seekins; their ring to base T-25 screws are 55inlbs, so I use my torque wrench. Otherwise, NF rings are what I typically use and a torque driver doesn't work for them as they use a nut. For these I use my torque wrench or just tighten by feel.

    I'm always more concerned with the smaller cap screws (<= to 8-40) getting torqued properly than the larger stuff. It's easy to get carried away on the small stuff.
     
    Snap-on for action screws and bases. Fat wrench for the rings. Have used the Borka and like it as well. The snap on has reinstalled many actions into chassis and mini chassis and is usually within a .1 mil on scope zero.


    R
     
    Go with either the Wheeler and/or Borka. Can not go wrong with either.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Wiha is also another precision instrument made in Germany
     
    Last edited:
    I've had a Wheeler Fat Wrench and it was okay, but I greatly prefer my Borka tools MG17. I use it all the time on my stuff and for friends.
     
    I bought a used Borka from Tucker301. They do not sell reconditioned tools.
     
    Last edited:
    A bit more clarification - I've got interested in the condition of the original 3+ year old multi torque driver, one of the first 500 made, which Philotimos purchased from another SH member. I've received this driver, evaluated it, found no issues and sent it back to Philotimos, who was most helpful and patient in letting me play with it for a week... It certainly does not mean that Borka Tools has any "reconditioned" tools for sale.
     
    Last edited:
    Diver160651 said:
    Wouldn't it be nice if your torque wrench could actually be used for both ring to tube tension but also the rings to base?? Some scope to base rings require 2x what that wrench is rated at.. Oh action screws screws too


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Click to expand...

    You can..

    DSC_7338_zps5ae48721.jpg
     
    I love quality torque wrenches. Have about 8 of them from 1/4" to 3/4" drive. For most gunsmithing needs I have a Utica TS-35, and also two different Tohnichi (made in Japan) torque drivers. One goes to 20 inch pounds, the other to 80 inch lbs. Also have a Fat Wrench and it is surprisingly accurate compared to my expensive torque tools. The key thing to remember is that any torque wrench is most accurate in approximately its mid-range. I never use a torque wrench close to its lowest or highest settings, that is why I have several for just about any application.
     
    I use a Snap-on Qdriver 5-40 in/lb. For anything heavier I have a Snap-On 1/4" - in/lb torque wrench.



    t
     
    Arc Light said:
    I love quality torque wrenches. Have about 8 of them from 1/4" to 3/4" drive. For most gunsmithing needs I have a Utica TS-35, and also two different Tohnichi (made in Japan) torque drivers. One goes to 20 inch pounds, the other to 80 inch lbs. Also have a Fat Wrench and it is surprisingly accurate compared to my expensive torque tools. The key thing to remember is that any torque wrench is most accurate in approximately its mid-range. I never use a torque wrench close to its lowest or highest settings, that is why I have several for just about any application.
    Click to expand...

    Exactly. Utica for most things on a firearm and a 1/4 torque wrench for the upper torque ranges. My torque wrench is a Cornwell, but any quality wrench will do.
     
    Nobody ever listens to me when I say this, but save your money. You don't need a torque wrench at all. They are not terribly precise instruments to begin with because they don't measure what you actually care about, which is the bolt stretch. So they give a false sense of precision. When it comes to screws, "as tight as you can get them without breaking something" is generally the right answer. I've never run across threads on a firearm that required or even benefitted from a torque wrench. The one exception I can think of off the top of my head might be AR barrel nuts, and even with those common sense will get the job done. But in general? Spend the money on a nice steak dinner and a good bottle of whiskey. You'll get more out of it.
     
    damoncali said:
    Nobody ever listens to me when I say this, but save your money. You don't need a torque wrench at all. They are not terribly precise instruments to begin with because they don't measure what you actually care about, which is the bolt stretch. So they give a false sense of precision. When it comes to screws, "as tight as you can get them without breaking something" is generally the right answer. I've never run across threads on a firearm that required or even benefitted from a torque wrench. The one exception I can think of off the top of my head might be AR barrel nuts, and even with those common sense will get the job done. But in general? Spend the money on a nice steak dinner and a good bottle of whiskey. You'll get more out of it.
    Click to expand...

    This is generally my thought as well. They day you break off a screw or bolt is the day you'll learn that 32 inch pounds is two foot pounds, which isn't much.

    If you gouge a scope you have rings that don't fit and shouldn't be anywhere near a precision optic or mount.
     
    I just bought a FAT wrench and it worked well mounting my scope.

    Can't say anything else would work better or worse, but it worked for me.
     
    damoncali said:
    Nobody ever listens to me when I say this, but save your money. You don't need a torque wrench at all. They are not terribly precise instruments to begin with because they don't measure what you actually care about, which is the bolt stretch. So they give a false sense of precision. When it comes to screws, "as tight as you can get them without breaking something" is generally the right answer. I've never run across threads on a firearm that required or even benefitted from a torque wrench. The one exception I can think of off the top of my head might be AR barrel nuts, and even with those common sense will get the job done. But in general? Spend the money on a nice steak dinner and a good bottle of whiskey. You'll get more out of it.
    Click to expand...
    I use one more for repeatability and to be sure sure I'm getting even torque. I don't want to deal with overtorqued hardware as there is no benefit, and I also don't want to extract broken screws. It takes the same amount of time to do shit right as it does to do things "good enough". On bigger stuff that is less torque sensitive, I generally agree. At the end of the day, people are chasing repeatable accuracy and spend a fortune on gear to get there; why cut the easiest corners?
     
    Don't get me wrong- there's nothing wrong with using one. They *are* going to be better than winging it. Just not as much as most folks think. In the end, the screws on a rifle are not going to effect accuracy (especially ring screws), so it's just not important. If I had one, I'd use it. But I don't and I have no concerns about my screws being too tight or too loose. My scopes don't move, and I didn't strip the rings. That's all I care about.
     
    You must log in or register to reply here.

    Similar threads

    R
    Torque Question (involving NF and Spuhr)
    Replies
    11
    Views
    318
    chevy_man
    C
    C
    Rim X Action Screw torque Value
    Replies
    3
    Views
    180
    Criver600
    Criver600
    S
    action screw torque
    Replies
    2
    Views
    260
    Steelshooter842
    S
    A
    Action bolt torque
    Replies
    7
    Views
    834
    Mike Casselton
    Mike Casselton
    A
    SOLD Wheeler F.A.T. Stix with 12 Screwdriver Bits, 5 Torque Limiters, and Storage Case for Firearm Building and Maintenance
    Replies
    2
    Views
    306
    artofthepoint
    A
    Top Bottom
    Back