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Rifle Scopes Why would I want a lower power optic over a higher power variable at a lower setting?

Phiddy

Private
Minuteman
Oct 24, 2019
5
2
I have read most beginners tend to have their optics set too high. I guess I am one of those, and was wondering if there is any down fall to a 6-24 scope set at 14 or so? Opinions? I tend to buy the bigger variable optic so I can chose the magnification I want. I shoot at paper and steel, not a hunter FYI.
 
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Easier to dial down then run out of mag......
For paper I like a lot of magnification for steel even out to 1K I am in the low teens.
Obviously clarity is a big factor regardless of magnification.
 
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Go with the higher mag, than when you back off your eyebox is better and easier to use. And if you want to ID or cheat at 100 yards the high mag will be there for you.
 
love my 50x mag even during summer had to turn it down a bit 40's and 30's and have been trying to use less and less mag . But its so nice to have and be able to use it . I can't help it i like seeing the impacts on paper as well as steel not just the splatters but the impacts , and Its great watching others impacts when they can't see there own shots , and especially when my scope cost 1/2 the price less than there scopes .
 
Higher magnification is helpful for zeroing by knowing exactly where your point of impact is you can adjust to your point of aim. When spotting, particularly in team competitions where your setup as shooter/shooter. Finally as others mentioned target ID. I would also say more magnification helps for milling targets as well.

24 power works well for me, but 90% of my scopes life is between 9-14x. When I need it, it’s nice to have though.
 
I like the higher mag. scopes at this time in my life (5x25), old eyes and all, and like mentioned above, when dialed down, eyebox is more forgiving. I also like the fact, that when I'm shooting for groups (checking diff. factory ammo(s)) at 100yds., I don't have to come off the gun, just to use my spotter. Mac
 
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I have read most beginners tend to have their optics set too high. I guess I am one of those, and was wondering if there is any down fall to a 6-24 scope set at 14 or so? Opinions? I tend to buy the bigger variable optic so I can chose the magnification I want. I shoot at paper and steel, not a hunter FYI.

Just curious as to where did you read that beginners use too much magnification?

What were the arguments against using higher magnification?

Only thing I can think of is that the top of the magnification range, image quality degrades a bit while any sympathetic movement is magnified (e.g. the reticle drifting in time your heart beat).

Image quality degradation is not an issue with good scopes and your conditioning determines your ability to achieve a stable natural point of aim.

I say run it high as you can before image degrades for static target shooting, especially at MOA sized or smaller targets and at lower power for when migrate is bad, for target acquisition as well as engaging snaps and movers when practicing those.
 
Just curious as to where did you read that beginners use too much magnification?

What were the arguments against using higher magnification?

Only thing I can think of is that the top of the magnification range, image quality degrades a bit while any sympathetic movement is magnified (e.g. the reticle drifting in time your heart beat).

Image quality degradation is not an issue with good scopes and your conditioning determines your ability to achieve a stable natural point of aim.

I say run it high as you can before image degrades for static target shooting, especially at MOA sized or smaller targets and at lower power for when migrate is bad, for target acquisition as well as engaging snaps and movers when practicing those.

Pretty common issue with newer shooters. They feel more comfortable at the higher/max magnification. However, their recoil management and ability to see their shots isn’t up to the level needed.

So recoil either pushes their sight off target or they just miss seeing the shot due to lack of experience.

As their skill increases, so does their ability to shoot at higher magnification if they so choose.
 
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I think this poster served a positive purpose. He showed that Frank is running a tight ship. Defending the integrity of the site. No doubt after 20 years running it scammers stand out.
 
Pretty common issue with newer shooters. They feel more comfortable at the higher/max magnification. However, their recoil management and ability to see their shots isn’t up to the level needed.

So recoil either pushes their sight off target or they just miss seeing the shot due to lack of experience.

As their skill increases, so does their ability to shoot at higher magnification if they so choose.

Agree the fundamentals of marksmanship are lacking simply because the shooter is new; I always recommend that new shooters go ot with a spotter who is an experienced shooter, as much as possible while they’re learning. Takes the burden off of trying to call their own misses or see hits so they can focus purely on execution and mechanics, perhaps zeroing in on one or two (trigger control, breathing) then a subsequent session on sight alignment, recoil mgmt etc. The spotter can call results as well as coach the shooter as needed.

As far as Scope magnificationwhen shooting, the more mag a scope has the clearer it will be in the middle range of the scope’ available mag...a 5-20x50 will look clearer and brighter than a 3-10x50 at 10x. This applies to most price points, except for maybe the very top of the market (SB, Hensold, TT, Swaro, etc).

Circling back to the OP’s original question, I’d take the 6-24 all day over a 3.5-15, assuming we are comparing scopes for the same manufacturer or something at the same price point.
 
I usually run magnification As high as conditions allow unless I’m trying to run plates quickly.
 
That was true for cheap scopes and old designs.

Used to be 8-32, 6-24, 4-12, 3-9 were about it in the affordable starting range.
Problem was, they were affordable and glass quality wasn't the same 20 years ago. The higher mag stuff had supper tight eye boxes, and quality that suffered. I've seen some old 8-32's that were useless above 20x.

In today's world even low end glass is usable. More and more mid to high end glass is nice and clear with usable resolution at those high mag ranges.


I think the 5-25 is the sweet spot. (I can spot my own hits past 300 using 25x on a 6.5 Creed.)
The 3-18 super short stuff being awesome if you need compact but usable.

I may try a 7-35mk5, but I'm at a loss figuring out what rifle to build for it. May go on a 243ai, but even then I think the recoil may make it unusable over 25-28x if I want to see my hits.
 
I agree, anything over 25 seems to be a waste with mirage
Depends.
Where I often shoot in the forests of Idaho, Oregon and Washington mirage is often pretty mild.
In eastern Washington in the summer mirage could get pretty strong.
I can only imagine the mirage with high heat and humidity but I won’t live where those occur together ever again:)
 
Just curious as to where did you read that beginners use too much magnification?

What were the arguments against using higher magnification?

Only thing I can think of is that the top of the magnification range, image quality degrades a bit while any sympathetic movement is magnified (e.g. the reticle drifting in time your heart beat).

Image quality degradation is not an issue with good scopes and your conditioning determines your ability to achieve a stable natural point of aim.

I say run it high as you can before image degrades for static target shooting, especially at MOA sized or smaller targets and at lower power for when migrate is bad, for target acquisition as well as engaging snaps and movers when practicing those.

I cannot remember the post and it was awhile ago, but it was on here. I am fairly new to the precision shooting game, and finding this site has been a big help. I have learned a lot. Although I am not using top shelf equipment, (I am shooting a Ruger precision with Vortex optic) I feel I am buying the best quality to match my ability, and that will progress as I do I am sure. Thanks for your answers, it appears most who replied agree with my thinking and I will continue it. I am a pretty confident shooter at 200yds and am at the point of moving that out to 400-600 when I can find a spot or a range with that available. I live in Western Wa. state if any of you have suggestions. THX!
 
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3-12 4-16 5-25 6-24 I still mostly shoot around 10-12x. Only use higher power when spotting scope isn’t around .
 
Looking for another thread ran across this...

One of the reasons newer Shooters have a problem at high power is because of shooter induced oscillation. As you move up in power you see more movement relative to the Target. Naturally, what we want to do is settle this movement so we try 2 control the movement forcefully with our muscles. Often, this creates more movement and more tension...not natural. Dial back and that movement is gone... Well sort of. The movement is still there you just can't see it so, you're back to your natural point of aim unlikely your natural breathing, heart rate and shot break.

As mentioned above, we all have our preferred power setting. For me, it depends on the glass. Some Scopes I'm around 12 some 14 While others such as mine Burris XTR I'm around 5 to 7... shooting at 600.

For me, I primarily used the higher power for spotting.
 
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Regarding where the OP may have seen the comments that newer shooters tend to shoot at too high a power, it was most likely to have been during a discussion about PRS or other movement style precision shooting. There, having your scope set to max power can often be a detriment.

For example, you have 90 seconds to engage three targets, at different locations and ranges, from three different positions. A lot of movement required. Just this past weekend on my squad comprised of mostly newer shooters, we coached some newer shooters to dial down from max to 12-15 power. They were using most of their time just trying to find the correct berms and targets to shoot.

So in addition to showing them how to find the target area/berm first without the scope and then align the rifle/scope as they were getting into position, we suggested that by dialing down to mid power, the field of view is greater, allowing them to acquire targets quicker. Target acquisition speed is very important in anything but a static or slow fire environment.

As mentioned above by @Dthomas3523 above, as you get better and more experienced, you can use slightly higher powers successfully in dynamic situations, but you’ll find that more often than not, the higher powers tend to be used mostly for spotting and for belly stages at longer distances.
 
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