Gunsmithing Will this brake work on my rifle?

[bowerj]

First post for me here. I usually get all I need from searching and reading but figured I'd ask about this one.

Anyway here's what I've got....SSG 3000 metric version with barrel threaded 18x1. I decided I wanted to try a brake to help with spotting my own shots and decided on the Surefire SOCOM brake. Took me forever to track down one threaded 18x1, they were backordered everywhere I looked. So I received the brake and went to thread it on but the threads come up short inside the brake and leave about 3-1/2 threads left on the barrel.

So my question is simply can I get a tap to continue the threads in the brake so it makes it to the shoulder. I do NOT want to change anything on the barrel itself. Also the barrel profile before the threads start is fairly small on this gun, so there isn't much shoulder. The index washer set that comes with the brake is too larger for the barrel profile and nearly slides over it. Will I be able to cut the threads checking as I go until the brake is properly indexed without touching the shoulder or using washers, only using rocksett to hold it in place? Or will I have alignment issues?

Facts?Opinions?...

 

[crawdad1]

Who threaded the barrel?

 

[bowerj]

The factory

 

[Sikko15]

First post for me here. I usually get all I need from searching and reading but figured I'd ask about this one.

Anyway here's what I've got....SSG 3000 metric version with barrel threaded 18x1. I decided I wanted to try a brake to help with spotting my own shots and decided on the Surefire SOCOM brake. Took me forever to track down one threaded 18x1, they were backordered everywhere I looked. So I received the brake and went to thread it on but the threads come up short inside the brake and leave about 3-1/2 threads left on the barrel.View attachment 50102View attachment 50103

So my question is simply can I get a tap to continue the threads in the brake so it makes it to the shoulder. I do NOT want to change anything on the barrel itself. Also the barrel profile before the threads start is fairly small on this gun, so there isn't much shoulder. The index washer set that comes with the brake is too larger for the barrel profile and nearly slides over it. Will I be able to cut the threads checking as I go until the brake is properly indexed without touching the shoulder or using washers, only using rocksett to hold it in place? Or will I have alignment issues?

Facts?Opinions?...

Try using the shims that come with the muzzle brake

 

[bowerj]

Not enough shims to even come close to filling that gap. It would look terrible anyways. And like I said they are too large inside diameter and barely make contact with the shoulder.

 

[Ledzep]

Option 1: Cut the barrel threads shorter and play with shoulder position to get the brake to time correctly.

Option 2: You can try running a tap through the brake (not sure how much deeper you could run a tap in that particular brake) and find shims elsewhere that it your OD/ID constraints.

Does the brake screw on easily then sharply bottom out, or does it get tighter and tighter until it stops threading on?

Which way you go really just depends on how much meat is inside that brake to cut away. You're going to have to use shims if you don't touch the barrel (unless you get really lucky).

 

[rlwilson]

If you are going to tap something you could make a bushing the OD of barrel and tap it use it as a spacer to time brake it would be at least 4 or 5 threads deep not sure about looks. be better than spacers and would be flush. just a thought.

 

[bowerj]

There is plenty more room to thread inside the brake before the muzzle would contact the first chamber wall. Probably like a half inch or so. Still need to find shims with a smaller diameter to make enough contact with the shoulder.

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a gunsmith in central Ohio I could call or have look at it? I'd like to have a for sure before I make any attempts. Might even have it rethread if I must.

 

[GlockBlock]

Custom make a bushing as a spacer.

 

[kyle528]

You could drill out a few flat washers and fit to match o/d of barrel and paint black to match to get you close, then use shims and a crush washer. Make sure the i/d of the washers are very close to the thread size to prevent boogering the threads

 

[deadly0311]

You are going to break some tapas trying to tap the brake

 

[buffybuster]

I'd consider making a jam nut to fill the gap and allow the brake to be timed and shoulder up on the jam nut. Even if you are able to tap the brake, you're still left with very little shoulder for the brake to time/ butt up against.

 

[jonbearman]

Any gunsmith worth his salt could easily shorten the barrel and recrown it. Then time it for you.

 

[RWSGunsmithing]

If this brake is going to be used to attach a suppressor don't use anything but the precision ground shims that come with the brake or similar brakes.

You will bust a tap if you try to tap the brake out, those things are HARD.

I recommend taking some off some of the crown and just recrown it.

 

[BillyGoatMachine]

^^^^^listen to this guy, he's right.

 

[zenbiker]

View attachment 50108



Try using the shims that come with the muzzle brake

Oh, HELL NO. Not only would that be ass ugly, but shims are nothing but a bandaid for gunsmiths who don't know how to time a muzzle device.

The shims would probably not fit to the shoulder, and the apparent lack of relief at the shoulder are a recipe for a bullet/baffle/endcap strike...this is a joke, right?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[zenbiker]

Any gunsmith worth his salt could easily shorten the barrel and recrown it. Then time it for you.

A gunsmith worth his salt would be able to set up the barrel in his lathe, indicate the bore center, pick up the thread timing, and finish cutting the threads and relief with a full profile thread threading tool,and properly ground shoulder relief cutting tool. I've done it, and I'm a rank amateur. It-isn't-that-hard....

Of course, it's easier to do it right in the first place - like pulling the compound off the workpiece before you roll the carriage back so the cutter doesn't leave a gouge in the threads. That's just me, of course.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Sikko15]

Oh, HELL NO. Not only would that be ass ugly, but shims are nothing but a bandaid for gunsmiths who don't know how to time a muzzle device.

The shims would probably not fit to the shoulder, and the apparent lack of relief at the shoulder are a recipe for a bullet/baffle/endcap strike...this is a joke, right?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Not a Joke; I have personally used the shims on my rifle and several buddies have done so as well, I don't see anything wrong with using shims for a DIY muzzle brake install. Every rifle that I have seen that has used some sort of SF muzzle device the shims have fit correctly.

 

[GH41]

Oh, HELL NO. Not only would that be ass ugly, but shims are nothing but a bandaid for gunsmiths who don't know how to time a muzzle device.

The shims would probably not fit to the shoulder, and the apparent lack of relief at the shoulder are a recipe for a bullet/baffle/endcap strike...this is a joke, right?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Having a smith time a muzzle device is a waste of time and money for those of us who change them more than most of you change your underwear.

 

[ugsly]

If it was me I would stick it in the lathe dial it in and trim the barrel back and recrown and time the brake. Just my thoughts

Casey

 

[jonbearman]

Why would you change a brake often unless its full auto and being abused.Get it done right and leave it that way.

 

[RWSGunsmithing]

Do you have a dial caliper? If you do measure how long the thread is on your rifle.

I just received a surefire brake that says it's for the sako trg/ssg and I'm wondering if it would work for your application.

 

[bowerj]

The brake I have says its for the trg/ssg. I think I'm just going to make a threaded spacer and file it till its timed correctly.

 

[GH41]

File it?????????? I hope you never put a can on it.