Rifle Scopes zero change taking scope off and on?

[timelinex]

Just got a new Razor with the steel razor rings. I didn't get a chance to get a bubble level in yet, but I was going shooting today so I mounted and zeroed it.

When I get the bubble level, I have to take the scope off the rifle to be able to attach it. If I leave the scope in the rings and put it back, do I have to rezero or should it be exactly the same(down to the .1mil).

A side note is that when I clamped down the rings to the rail, I push forward on the rings as much as I can before screwing them on, so that should help.

I think I know the answer, but I'm really hoping I don't have to take it back to the 100yd range and rezero.

 

[RobertB]

I would always test it to see how it does,
I have a DMR on a GAP in badger rings that also has a D760 mounted on it come night time. If I put the DMR in the same slots, pust againt the lug towards the front, tighten back down the same, it has never been more than .1 MRAD off. Usually dead on. I have done this 5 times or so testing it. I feel pretty comfortable with it. If I was going hunting I would want to KNOW!! The D-760 has always held its zero as well but a time or so I had to "settle in" before it was consistent. Hope this helps.

Look into GDI for a true return to zero mount, my friend claims his Larue will always be dead on but I would want to test it 10-20 times to know.

 

[cali_tz]

I was thinking of the same question.... should I spend another $3K for another long distance S&B PMII scope, or should I just move around the one PMII that I already have.
I can handle not bringing both the 300 Win Mag and 338 Lap Mag to the same shooting outing.

The problem is while, per the OP question, I could take remount the zero'd scope over and over and keep zero, in the best case, I could not move the scope between rifles without burning some ammo on a rezero, as I move platforms.

Have any of you moved your one good scope between rifles... what is the procedure for minimal muss/fuss.

 

[Redmanss]

It should be the same, but that doesn't mean it will be the same...

 

[Rooster721]

I would imagine that whether it holds zero after removal and re-install probably has alot to do with the rail itself and the mount your scope is in.. (I would think a mil-spec 1913 rail would be of the highest precision) So mating that with a Near (or badger/etc) set of ring-mounts, especially a one-piece probably would be the best bet for holding zero.

I myself am in the same boat as you guys. In the process of putting together another build and am stuck "hmmm'n & hawww'n" about buying a second set of rings/optics or just swapping the Henny back n forth.

Lots of money involved when a guy starts setting up multiple rifles. Am thinking more & more that "switch-barrel" is the way to go.. will get smart sooner or later I guess* lol

 

[Rob01]

It will be close but I would test it to make sure.

 

[Irokcrawl]

If I take my optics off which I do a lot to move to another setup I may be .1mil off but its generally dead on. I run the Bobro mounts on a lot of my setups and they have perfect return to zero, at least in my experience. On normal rings I always tq to the same amount and that's where I may see the .1th of a mil off. Ive had better luck just marking the fastener and the mount and lining those two up than using a tq wrench every time, that usually yields a perfect return to zero.

 

[brianf]

it will always be a little different, and usually not repeatable down to the nats ass. and remember the more you do it the more you will cause the parts to wear which will cause more shift. the rail edges will become less sharp or there might be a little grit for sand in there which will mar surfaces after a while. just think if it as a big screw, how many times can you remove and replace it before the threads get loose.

the cost of now scopes make this decision harder and harder these days, so if it is just range day stuff save some bucks and switch. hunt of a lifetime or if your life is depending on utmost accuracy spring for a scope.

 

[cali_tz]

thanks, good advice here. I think the physical wear issue should not be something I worry about for many years. I am not talking about monthly swapping. Maybe 1-2 times a year.

I think the tq wrench approach could be problematic ... marking fastener positions as irokcrawl does could be very solid approach.

 

[Irokcrawl]

Or buy bobro and don't worry about it they have been 100% return to zero for me and that's swapping in some cases multiple times in a day letting others demo optics.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

 

[bschnzl]

I ordered my ADM Scout w/ the SWFA 3-15x42. Then I found this. John explains his test procedure. I believe others here have said "buy once cry once."
*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpf5v41xt0E

John also did a test on a similar mount to mine...