YOU are missing the point, and there’s a half dozen people in here who can do the simple addition and subtraction to explain it to you, but you don’t want to listen to them, and you haven’t even shot the bloody rifle yet.
- Thread starter CEO10KaDAY
- Start date
- Status
That rise is because the barrel is angled up and NOT because the bullet defies physics and rises after coming out of the barrel.
I’m dead certain you don’t understand MOA in the slightest. You thought a 20moa base was angled UP! They’re angled down…….
All of this confusion - on your end - is because you believe a 100 yd zero is achieved at the mid point of the elevation adjustment. Which simply isn’t true.
False, and I’ve stated as much multiple times. Something else you don’t want to listen to.
I never said a 20moa base was angled up I said it gives you 20moa of elevation.
That’s flawed mathematics. You’re assuming that the zero point on my rifle is (140/2).
That’s. Not. How. It. Works.
I wonder if his 20 MOA rail is a mis-marked 30 MOA, it would certainly bring all of this closer to alignment math wise.
No I’m not. I’m calculating the zero point at 5.6moa above bottom.
Last edited:
Or if his other mount is 20moa and he thinks it’s zero. No mention of that mount’s part number.
The rail is actually 30 MOA. I said 20 earlier but I just checked and it’s 30.
Thus proving me right that I’m going to be high at a hundred.
I’m willing to bet any amount of money on it that I can’t zero to a hundred.
The rail being 30moa instead of 20 is a pretty big deal. And not providing that number is what led to this entire debate.
I knew this from the start though, because of my entire point being I only had 30 minutes of dialage left and I’m adding a 44.4 moa mount. Rather than just trust me from the beginning it had to turn into a debate, which I’m ultimately still right on I can’t zero at a hundred.
Was actually just about to post all the ax338 and mcs are 30 moa rails but our hero figured it out ...
Yes, but with the info you gave, the math didn't add up and that's going to have people questioning what's going on.
You can't expect people to "trust me" when you give the incorrect information.
Lmao. Yes I had that number wrong. But I’m still right that I can’t zero to a 100 which is why I made the thread asking what others do.
Gtfo unless you actually have something useful to add
Except your repeated puzzlement as to why you couldn't dial any lower. You dialed 10 MOA more than you were accounting for.
Lmaooooo
I made a mistake and said 20 when it was 30. Intuitively I still knew I couldn’t zero to 100 because I have a lot of practice on the thing.
You’re battling totally by semantics and completely missing the pragmatics of the situation… like a total cunt
You have a few choices for shooting ELR now:
- mark a POA and POI on a target at 100yds that simulates the range you want to zero. Adjust the optic so that you're hitting that POI when using that POA. Say that number is 800yds. You plug 800yds into your calculator as your zero. (there's several ways to go about this).
- Get a less inclined mount, then either hold over or get a prism.
- "zero" at the minim distance you can zero for the same POA/POI. I use the term "zero" loosely as this likely won't stay the same day to day since environmental conditions play a huge role at distance.
- mark a POA and POI on a target at 100yds that simulates the range you want to zero. Adjust the optic so that you're hitting that POI when using that POA. Say that number is 800yds. You plug 800yds into your calculator as your zero. (there's several ways to go about this).
- Get a less inclined mount, then either hold over or get a prism.
- "zero" at the minim distance you can zero for the same POA/POI. I use the term "zero" loosely as this likely won't stay the same day to day since environmental conditions play a huge role at distance.
Have the day you deserve.
Imma be over here shooting two miles and drinking scotch with my old man.
Buddy I never had the math wrong. I had the numbers wrong. Big difference.
Unless you wanna compare advanced math degrees too?
Unless you wanna compare advanced math degrees too?
Yeah, you got the easiest part wrong, which made everything else wrong. Garbage in is garbage out.
I'm not arguing so I am getting ignored but OP you might want to go read my post above.
Well where can I get a 94.4 MOA mount?
Not sure what that means but all I was saying is that the 140 moa is not a hard number in stone on how much elevation you have. It's the spec. Until you go to the range and put rounds on target you won't really know for sure if you can zero at 100 with the 74 moa of cant.
Op. Start over. What are you trying to do? Shoot bugs @ 100. Or not run out of elevation at 2 miles? Is your base canted? If so why do you need more? If you are running out of elevation at ELR, if might compromise getting impacts at poa at 100. refocus on your purpose, both your setup and post.
if you can zero at 100, then you could have dialed whatever bozo range you are trying to reach with your luda cant mount.
if you can zero at 100, then you could have dialed whatever bozo range you are trying to reach with your luda cant mount.
Do this before getting a 1.21 giga wat canted base
He already has the base. And is planning on shooting ELR.
He's just asking how people go about zero'ing rifles that can't zero at 100yds.
I want to shoot 2 miles
Then I want to shoot 3 miles
I want to shoot as far as possible.
It's all pretty simple.
First, you gotta get off the phone/ computer and shoot the damn rifle.
Let's choose 100yds.
Dial the scope down and come up a few clicks (maybe 3MOA) so it's not sitting on the bottom of its travel.
Stick up a target.
Shoot the target and get your windage correct.
Shoot again to verify.
Measure how high you are at 100.
Enter that number in your ballistic app.
Now, play with that app and you'll know at what yardage you are zeroed.
Set your zero stop.
Get back on the internet and tell everyone how dumb they are again because they couldn't figure out how to zero a long range use rifle.
First, you gotta get off the phone/ computer and shoot the damn rifle.
Let's choose 100yds.
Dial the scope down and come up a few clicks (maybe 3MOA) so it's not sitting on the bottom of its travel.
Stick up a target.
Shoot the target and get your windage correct.
Shoot again to verify.
Measure how high you are at 100.
Enter that number in your ballistic app.
Now, play with that app and you'll know at what yardage you are zeroed.
Set your zero stop.
Get back on the internet and tell everyone how dumb they are again because they couldn't figure out how to zero a long range use rifle.
Don’t forget to fight with everyone and call them trolls.
You’re going to need a Charlie Tarac and a bigger rifle if you plan on that. Especially if that 100 yard zero is important to you
It’s not important. I don’t want to be able to zero at 100.
Then what, other than to display to the whole world that you’re an idiot, was the point of this thread?
- Status
Similar threads
