Recent content by saddlerocker

I have MidwayUSA soft cases for O/U shotgun and a couple tactical rifle bags and they are nice for the $$. I think I am going to get their sniper drag bag as I too am in need of a case for my bolt gun.

KRG Bravo is another solid inexpensive chassis

Nevermind. I'm a dummy. 30 Rem / 6.8SPC.

Please humor me if possible. Tried a search. Is there a short action parent case between 308 and 223 diameter. Like 10.75mm base diameter? Something where case head and body are basically between the 2 Nato Calibers? 223 is 9.6mm at the rim. 9.58mm at the base. 9mm at the shoulder 308 is 12mm...

Yeah, my split case didn't even produce a flier in the group I was shooting. No marks in the chamber. I sent PSA an email, but havnt heard back yet. It's odd it seems like it's always the 77OTM, not their other loads. I saw some AAC 6.5CM ruptures also when searching.

I don't have a chrony, but just had this case rupture with the 77gr OTM. Bought on 11/21/23 Lot # SCL1CK131 In my bolt gun the 75gr has been the most consistent. I keep having fliers with the 77 SMK. The 77OTM has been good for the cost, but my rifle prefers the 75 for the same cost.

Shooting factory 5.56 and 223 loads in a Hawk Hill barrel 223 wylde. It's a surefire legacy can FA556-212 ( 223 hole) on an MB556K brake mount. I have had some odd fliers with AAC 5.56 77gr SMK loads and that is the group where a round mysteriously missed the target.

I have a Geissele alignment rod and it's perfectly aligned.

Eh, I have been shooting groups almost exclusively and I had one round completely miss a target at 200yds. It was very odd and I just couldnt figure it out. So I am wondering if that was due to an endcap strike. Im not too worried about it, but I also don't know if an endcap needs to be uniform...

Does this look like an end cap strike, and would it effect accuracy? Hard to get a good picture, but I noticed a small divot at 12 O'clock on the end cap. I cleaned it up with a scraper and some q tips to removed carbon and it appears it is a divot. Not sure if those are cracks or scratches...

I understand that, but a number is an unmistakable reference, shaded squares can't be dialed as quick I wouldn't imagine

I have light strikes on some 5.56 loads in my origin action. (Wylde chamber) They said it's the cocking piece. There is a different one they said I could try, but it will make lock/lift more difficult. IMI MK262 is the main load that has light strikes like 60% of the time. And many still won't...

Not to hijack, but I thought I was pretty settled on an S3 5-25, but what's the deal with the parallax knob? No numbers, just shaded rectangles? Does anyone find that to be a pain?

Where did you get that idea from? I got this barrel. Shot it twice and cleaned it normally before getting the borescope. I never tried to "clean away" damage. OP's pictures and the longer I continue to see no new marks in my barrel, the more I believe it was marred from machining.

Maybe not. I hope not. But I have read many times about borescopes causing damage. Same with cleaning rods that should be softer than barrel material. Plus, I did get it wedged like an idiot when I first got it. (.223 bore is barely larger than the Teslong) The photos from the OP had me question...