Disagree. Berger's calculator gives SG 1.52 with the 285 bullet parameters, 12-twist, 2700 fps, altitude 4000 feet, temp 59 degrees.
If he's at sea level and it's cold, he may have marginal stability, but I've shot bullets with marginal stability and they performed fine. My 12 twist 375 barrel had basically this same SG for the 390 a-tip and it shot lights out.
So it may be worth a try.
If he's at sea level and it's cold, he may have marginal stability, but I've shot bullets with marginal stability and they performed fine. My 12 twist 375 barrel had basically this same SG for the 390 a-tip and it shot lights out.
So it may be worth a try.
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Except he said that his rifle didn’t like the 285 bullet. Whether that’s from testing or some other opinion is what matters.
Take a couple zeros off that altitude and that's right where I'm at.
We shot some of the factory hornady 285 stuff and the rifle didn't care for it. How it would do with handloads, only one way to find out. My brother only bought 100 of the bergers to try so he'll be out of them pretty quick. I might get a box of the 285 eldm for him to try.
When he bought the rifle he bought a case of the prime 300gr ammo. We must be on the ragged edge for marginal stability for that one. We've shot it some days and it'll shoot ¾ moa. Other days it's 3 moa. Still made round holes at 300 yards though. Maybe we should give the 285 a try.
It loves a 250 smk. Cheap s&b loaded with them was one ragged hole at 100. At $2 a shot, he should have cleaned the lgs out on that stuff.
Anyone have a hookup on 300gr bergers? Mile High my usual go to is out of stock, everywhere I look seems to be out of stock too. I have a match coming up 6/1
gunbroker has some.. 250 count. $$$
but with the handle of 10k a day.... that's bubble gum money
but with the handle of 10k a day.... that's bubble gum money
Is annealing before trimming dumb? What’s the critical path here on order of operations? Or does it not matter. I finally have some brass that’s longer than max.
Thank you. I have another question. Going to finally reveal my true novice status with this one, but isn’t it already sized after I deprime them? I’ve got both the Redding s type neck sizer and full length sizer - been using only the full length sizer lately. But it sizes them when I deprime right? I can run back through though.
To answer your question, yes. Anneal first, then size/deprime.
Just for clarity, some of us deprime separately, often as the first step with fired brass before tumbling.
Not at all; it’s mostly a personal preference. If you deprime at the start, and then tumble, you get clean primer pockets depending on how you tumble. If you’re doing dry media vibratory tumbling, then you’re just going to get a bunch of media in the primer pockets. So in that case it makes more sense to:
- Tumble
- Anneal
- FL Size/Deprime
- Neck stuff (Mandrel/Trim/Chamfer/Debur)
Hello 338 LM reloading God's. I have another question for you.
I just trimmed up some brass. It was my first time doing so and was learning on the fly and could use some advice. First I'm wondering just how critical it is that every piece of brass is the exact same length for optimized accuracy. The application here would be in the scope of an ELR match. I can see how not having uniform brass length can give you non-uniform neck tension, but just how much does 1 thousandth of an inch make a difference.
I'm working with 30 pieces here, and have them trimmed to the folloowing lengths and quantities:
2.713 - 1x
2.715 - 1x
2.716 - 1x
2.7175 - 3x
2.718 - 3x
2.7185 - 1x
2.719 - 16x
2.7195 - 2x
2.72 - 1x
2.7205 - 1x
Question is what should I do here. Are these differences going to give me wild group sizes?
Also - thank you Dogtown for all of your help. I owe you at least a few edible arrangements at this point.
I just trimmed up some brass. It was my first time doing so and was learning on the fly and could use some advice. First I'm wondering just how critical it is that every piece of brass is the exact same length for optimized accuracy. The application here would be in the scope of an ELR match. I can see how not having uniform brass length can give you non-uniform neck tension, but just how much does 1 thousandth of an inch make a difference.
I'm working with 30 pieces here, and have them trimmed to the folloowing lengths and quantities:
2.713 - 1x
2.715 - 1x
2.716 - 1x
2.7175 - 3x
2.718 - 3x
2.7185 - 1x
2.719 - 16x
2.7195 - 2x
2.72 - 1x
2.7205 - 1x
Question is what should I do here. Are these differences going to give me wild group sizes?
Also - thank you Dogtown for all of your help. I owe you at least a few edible arrangements at this point.
Honestly, I wouldn't fret over such tiny variations. Maybe just cull the obvious outliers.
I’m no god like dogtown, just a minor acolyte, but I agree with him. If your trimmer is capable of holding tighter, make them all like the lower 2.717 size, but they really aren’t that far apart. The only two real outliers are on the low side, the 2.713 and 2.715.
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