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West Virginia

Going to be moving to Morgantown, WV for work in a few weeks. Started looking for gun stores and shooting ranges. Found Harry Jones gun range that offered up to 1000yrd, any others worth looking into?

Don’t have a house yet so I can’t give a local area yet other than where work is, but I will absolutely not be living in the city, or PA, VA, or MD.

SOLD Gone

I have for sale a men's vintage Rolex Oyster Date in very good condition. Fresh service and 100% Rolex parts have been used to maintain this handsome devil.
Got the watch back from Pav and Broome (official Rolex sales and service dealer that is listed on the Rolex website) last Friday where they did a new insurance appraisal (I have the official appraisal paperwork.)
Comes in a nice box. No original Rolex box and no original papers.
Will come with a warranty card.

Asking $SOLD cash. As far as trades go, would love a TacOps rifle in 308. Or, would be interested in quality640 thermals that are in good condition. Possibly other trades for high-end scopes, or other high-quality weapons in 9 mm, 5.56 or 308 caliber only.
Please PM any questions or offers! Thanks!
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SOLD Spurh mounts, adm mount, dd handguard

I have 2 spurh mounts one 34mm and one 30mm both are like new barely used asking 250 for each.

Adm mount 34mm like new asking 100

Daniel defense ris3 12.5 handguard like new asking 250

All items will be insured. I will accept venmo, zell,chime and PayPal (friends and family)

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Best clip on thermal for the money

I’m a K9 handler and narcotics investigator for a sheriffs office in Oklahoma. I was running a reap IR for thermal but have decided I want a clip on unit to use on my deployment rifle so I don’t have to remove my scope. For the money what is the best clip on that is available that will also double as a monocular for observation purposes? I’d love to hear some firsthand experience on this.

SOLD Manners T2A w/mini chassis

Manners Composite T2A w/ Mini Chassis. REM 700 SA . MTU inlet. 3.7 lbs. Catch and release. I’m not going to use it. Excellent condition. No scratches or dings. Ghost mark from the rubber bottom of a bipod. Shown clearly in the pic of the stud.
Action and bipod installed but never used. Back in Black carbon fiber molded, two quick detach cups on left side, single sling stud.

875 shipped USPS priority
PayPal F&F or Venmo.
No trades
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Turd Alert - Aneomemeter

I've read a lot of books on WW II sniping and nowhere have I ever read that German snipers were issued anemometers (wind speed thingy). On top of that, the seller asserts it belonged to Sepp Allerberger. Note: Third Gebirgs Division is scrawled on it. It should be Third Gebirgjager Division and regiment #, not battalion is on it. I don't think the person knows history. Move the decimal over to the left and I'd buy it as "toy" to play with.

link

Weird question regarding FL sizing

Not sure if this is just me and my guns but here is what I see after firing and resizing with a Redding Elite type S bushing die set.

I have 300 WM, .308win, 6.5cm and they all seem to fire a few times with neck sizing only then after the first 2 or 3 firings I would assume they would be my chamber size. So my 300 WM like 2.010 on my SAC comparator with a Mitutoyo caliper. I spray lube and I set my sizing die(on a Forrester CO-AX) until I get a 2.010 measurement(They are 2.014ish) when I start. I run 10 cases and I get 2.009, 2.006, 2.011, 2.012...

I cant for the life of me figure out why I get such a weird range of sizes with a fixed die in a decent press. I assume the cases arent all the same size when I start.

Below is my numbers from 50 rounds of PPU brass(I know its crap, It was factory ammo I bought for the brass when 300wm was hard to find). Its weird that the numbers get worse from min to max after sizing I would expect .0005 to .001 range after my process.

Any constructive thoughts would be appriciated. I know I need to invest in Lapua brass, I can't find any when I look locally.

Average
2.2140
SD
0.0006
Min
2.2125
Max
2.2145
ES
0.0020
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Need a better muzzle brake

I have a couple different 300 PRC rifles, big fan of the cartridge. However, ever since I had my shoulder repaired the recoil is kicking my ass. I m currently using a PVA Jetblast but it just is not doing enough. I regularly shoot hot 308s and even hot 45-70 with no issues but the 300 is starting to cause a flinch. Its a Zermatt action with a 26" bull barrel in a MDT chassis so it is quite hefty. What brakes would you guys recommend? I was looking at the different "tank" style brakes but dunno if they are worth it.
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Precision 6.5 CM - What would you change about my process?

Hi all,
I'm a novice reloader and I've been trying to get some handloads for 6.5 CM to be at least as good as the Hornady 140gr ELDM box ammo I shoot. Generally I'm getting SDs around 14-20, ESs around 51-66, but I've been told single digit SDs and ES under 20 is the standard. Here's the rundown of my gear and process:
  • Using pretty much all once-fired Hornady brass from my ELDM box ammo
  • I deprime the dirty brass with a Lee depriming die, then lube and size in a RCBS MatchMaster FL die, then tumble in my Frankford Arsenal tumbler with just dish soap. My brass doesn't get very dirty since I shoot on concrete and I'm trying to save the annoyance of collecting steel pins; I've read that sizing brass before cleaning may wear out the dies faster, but again, if it's not filthy is that an issue? Otherwise, would you tumble,size, then tumble again to get rid of the grease?
  • I prime with a Frankford Arsenal hand primer, which I find is faster than my press' built-in priming widget. Using Remington 9 1/2 LRPs.
  • I have a Lee perfect powder measure, a trickler and a Hornady digital powder scale. I typically charge the case (H4350) by putting the case on the scale, zeroing it, throw a powder load, and then trickle up to the exact grain of powder that gets the scale to tick over to the correct tenth-grain I want. This is pretty tedious, and I've debated whether just using the powder measure is good enough, regardless of where in the "tenth" it lands.
  • Then I seat the bullet. I've used almost exclusively Hornady 140 ELDMs. I intend to branch out to others but first I figure my process is the main issue over the projectile selection.

How would you change my process for the best improvement to SD/ES/precision without going absolutely crazy on gear cost? I have some budget, but $700 for powder scales, etc is probably not in the cards for me unless I go all the way into the deep end with this hobby. Some suggestions I've heard from friends are:
  • Switch to SRP Lapua brass and don't use Hornady brass at all
  • Experiment more with other projectiles
  • Get new dies instead of FL dies - I guess neck sizing/shoulder bump is preferable?
  • Get a case trimmer setup
  • Get an annealer
  • Experiment more with seating depth - note, I haven't done much experimentation here at all
  • Try different primers (LRP)
For these suggestions and any others the forum has, what priority would you put them in?

Who owns debris found on their property after a storm?

I have looked around and found that property owners are responsible for cleaning up storm debris left on their properties. I cannot reasonably hunt down the owner of a 1974 pink porcelain toilet and demand they come to remove it. OK I get that. No problem at all. What if (this is 100% a thought only I could never be this lucky) my neighbors shed, or a shed from miles away ends up on my back 40. Inside there is a gun safe, a huge Liberty gun safe. HUGE. Reloading equipment, cases of 208 grain 308 Bullets, brand new factory 300 AAC brass still in the origional packaging, several boxes marked: CCI 41 Primers 10,000 Count, and a 50' Boston Whaler which is 2hy the shed floated. Do I get to keep it?

Asking for a friend.

the end?

"the doomed,at the brink of civilizational destruction,have an attitude partly born of hubris and partly of naivete,perhaps best summed up as it can't happen here."
a quote from hanson's latest book about the destruction of thebes,carthage,constantinople,tenochtitlan and their associated civilizations. the last chapter has a list of things that destroyed civilizations have gotten wrong. alexander,scipio,mehmet and cortes had the power to destroy a civilization but not life on earth. different now,
he is really just laying out a not so subtle warning to america and the west about the path that we have been on for awhile.
truely,i have known how fragile our nation and culture have been for > 100 years. the deliberate destruction has been in action for awhile but has seen open progress for about 6 years & is well advanced. been going on longer and is farther along in europe. all of my family and friends are well on the "conservative" side but seem unaware or unwilling to see what is going on and what is coming. when they have a marginal awareness of some of these things,they usually chalk it up to incompetence. they just can't see that there is a deliberate plan,not accidents or mistakes. the obvious solution is unthinkable to them and can't be discussed.
the school and univ systems have corrupted any ability to think outside of the approved box.
when looking at all the destruction aimed at america in particular & western civilization in general,one can see how hitler was able to and allowed to come to power in germany in 1933. and the weimar republic pols were not trying to destroy germany but fix it. their population was in very dire straights. that is not unlike what we see here now. then the communists were trying to destroy it. they took the role of blm,antifa and our own deep state have now.
there are some swimming against the tide like trump and musk and a few others. we know that their lives are at risk.
a solution? i doubt any fix thru the electoral process will be allowed.

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