SAC 6 dasher sizing die with .265 and .266 alpha dasher bushings. SOLD
Cortina precision 6 dasher micrometer sizing die .264 bushing 230.00 shipped

Looking for some ideas on unique matches or locations around the US. Been shooting in the local Wyoming and Colorado prs type matches for a few years. Also shot the steel safari, team safari, and a guardian match. Looking to try some new locations that offer a unique experience or venue.

So far on my list is K&M and Altus. What other suggestions do you guys have to add to my bucket list? Doesn’t need to be PRS type matches but want to focus on long range rifle.

Also not in my prime anymore so not looking for 100 mile death marches. Could be more intense than steel safari but not crazy.

This may be long but bear with me please. Yesterday I shot a finale and on my last stage of the day my misses were all high 2 mils. This was a barricade timed stage 400 yards and 500 yards on 8” plates. Grass behind so not much for feedback as I was missing I adjusted for wind only a couple tenths and nothing for elevation. Scored zero and after spotter said I was high.
Stage before was a roof and I did well for me 8 out of 10, it was a no dial stage so I had pushed down my elevation turret before shooting that stage which I normally leave it up unlocked. After stage I lifted it then dialed zero.
Confused why I was suddenly high, after our squad finished, I laid prone and shot ten rounds out to see where on those targets or how much I was off.
At the 500 yard target I had to hold center as wind was from behind, and it was 2 mils high. That is a lot
My dope was correct, no problem there.

Got home checked torque on all screws, set screws, action, rings, rail bolts and also muzzle brake tight, no problems. Barrel looks clean and clear.

It is a Terminus Zeus QC, 6 Dasher 105 hybrid in once fired Alpha OCD , Proof prefit in an MDT ACC with gen 2 Razor HD

I’m not sure if the elevation cap had something to do with this, it is unexplainable to me.

I suppose next is take it to my range and confirm zero at 100, maybe do a test at distance with a level line adjusting elevation for each shot, ladder test I suppose?

Before the match I zeroed and it was fine.
Rifle did not get bumped or fall over that I know of after the previous roof stage.
Stage before this all was fine.
Any suggestions I thank you for any help or advice.

Looking to get an AMP with or without the AMP mate in very good to excellent condition.. PM me details.

There's no two ways about this question- but for longtime hockey fans here I have a question about going to games of yesteryear and wondering if my memory is paying tricks on me. As a brief preamble- as "I" remember it, when I started going to hockey games decades ago- the ice rink was always... well colder and you just knew you had to dress a little warm and be wearing at least a sweatshirt while attending a game.


Fast-forward to 2024- for the first time in my life, I purchased season tickets to the local AHL team that I grew up watching (usually a game or two a year) and (1) admittedly this is a 'newish' stadium but (2) and the reason I'm asking, I would have absolutely been cooking had I worn anything other than a t-shirt at tonight's game.

I have no idea if my memory is playing tricks on me or if things just changed with how hockey rinks were maintained but danged if I don't remember having to dress warmly decades ago.

Can anyone here share their experience on hockey games and (if possible) relate that to how I remember things?

-LD

This may seem trivial, but A LOT of these things are all but impossible to get on after installing a 4 rail forend. All of my older, (pre Cerberus), Bushmaster AR's came with them already installed.

I just installed a UTG Carbine Length Delta Ring, 4 rail forend on one of my AR's, and I'm very happy with it. But the rail covers that came with it are all but impossible to get on. (These are the full radiused rubber covers. Not the ladder type).

Has anyone else struggled with this? Are there some that fit better than others? Or are they all a pain in the ass? I don't want to use oil, or anything water based, for fear of it dripping on the barrel, and causing rusting issues. Or have the oil deteriorate the rubber.

If anyone has any tricks on installing these things, I'd love to hear them... Thanks in advance.

Sauer 100 bolt removal from improper insertion.
I have installed my bolt 90 degrees counter-clockwise to the proper way - now it cannot be removed. Done this twice!
The problem -The groove normally at the left side where the bolt release is (where the bolt release engages this groove) is now located at the bottom 6 o'clock position. The trigger sear is now engaged into the groove and stops the bolt being removed. The trigger sear spring must be pushed down via some appropriate tool you can find to be pushed in from the rear at he bottom/underside/ 6 o'clock position of the bolt and push down the sear. The bolt firing pin must be cocked. This is an except from Sauer 100 manual saying the same thing. I thought I would share my dilemma. I am sure I am not the only person experiencing this as it is easily done by mistake
32100.02
Fault: Chamber is jammed
Possible cause
Remedy:
The chamber has been incorrectly inserted
and the chamber capturing groove engages
in the trigger sear. The chamber cannot turn
any longer.
Take a thin object (e.g. 1.5 mm Allen
key), insert it under the chamber in the
rectangular groove until the tool meets
some resistance. Gently press the tool
approximately 1 cm further in. This
pushes the trigger sear down. Turn the
chamber slightly to the right. Remove
the tool, turn the chamber to the right
until it snaps into the correct position
(image 17).

Thinking of building one. Anyone else already built one?
Speed, accuracy ? Worth it over 300prc?

I am need if 500-1000. Please let me know if you have any

Thanks

So, just wanted to show the new Titanium QD set up I am trying out. I got 3 sets. SD Tactical is where I got em.

Pretty cool and machined really nice. The brake is a lot like a Ti cherry bomb, and the taper mount fits really well and is also very nicely machined. You can get whatever colors in either.

I got a cert for a free barrel chambering that drew Walter's put on a prize table. It will be chambered by war rifles, my question is anybody get a barrel done by them? Is Drew the gunsmith or does he have guys working for them? He's a solid dude so I don't see any issues using it just wanted some more info

Fits terminus kratos. 18” benchmark carbon in 7prc. Sendero light. I twist. 375 rounds down the tube. Shot well with 180 hybrids and retumbo or rl26. Sold the rifle without this barrel.
$450 shipped.

Brand new unused bought wrong size. $110 shipped usps priority insured lower 48. Paypal f/f, thanks!!!

WTS New in Box Knights Armament Company MK12 Free Float Rifle RAS Handguard KM21318 12"

$599 shipped & insured

2 available

Price is firm.

PP F&F, Zelle, or USPS MO only.

Colt Lower factory lower
Geissele SSA-E
Colt upper
PRI CH
DD BCG, can replace with Colt
Douglas barrel
KAC rail
Badge GB
OPS long collar and brake
Otter creek OCM5
KAC bipod mount
Harris BRM-S bipod
419 lever
LMT Gen 1 SOPMOD
KAC QD SOPMOD
TROY rail QD
Nightforce NXS 3.5-15 H59
NF ultra mount with top rail.

I think that about sums it up. I’m not pressed to sell this. I am simply testing the waters.

I am not trying to break any of this up, nor will I. The can will be transferred to the buyer through proper ATF forms.

I have maybe 60 rounds through this. It’s been sitting in the safe. I just don’t get out to the range for leisure like I used to right now. Paint is Krylon.

$5900 OBO

Trades/partial.
-LMT MWS 13.5” FDE upper and lower from Titan defense.
-SR-25 APC
-Noveske N6 6.5CM

I have zero interest in anyone’s bolt gun. I have or had the ones I want. Thanks

Spotted this at a local gun shop, 1903 Springfield chambered in 30-06 with a heavy barrel that would dwarf most precision rifle barrels

Currently using an atlas CAL for my 7 PRC rifle. It’s working fine but I’d like something a bit more stable. What do you guys recommend? Mostly doing bench and prone shooting.

Thanks

I've got an AR10 in 6.5 creedmoor that shoots about 1-1.25moa with Hornady 140gr ELDM. I got several cases of S&B 140gr FMJ for ultra cheap from a buddy, and my rifle only shoots about 3moa with that ammo. However, when I shoot both factory loads over a chronograph the S&B has an SD of 6-8 and the Hornady an SD of 14-16. I know SD isn't everything, but it got me thinking.

So, my question is, why not just replace the projectile on the S&B with a better projectile?

What I'm thinking is pull the projectile with a cam lok puller and then seat an ELDM in place of the old bullet. I can see the difference in bearing surface between bullets leading to pressure issues. Also, might need to run cases through a neck die to get enough neck tension to work in a semi-auto.

Has anyone here given this a try?

Manners T series stock with KMW adjustable cheek piece. Not sure on exactly what action it was originally inletted for other than some type of 700 SA clone. A defiance drops right in, big horn does as well but would need some work on the bolt handle area. Stock has been cerakoted OD green and wasn't done all that well. Stock is very functional but not a show piece, I'm gonna call it a "truck gun" special. Sendero barrel channel, bdl floor plate, pillars installed. 3.5 lbs.

$300 shipped

Two McMillan Game Warden stocks for sale. Both are in excellent condition and have not been bedded. $600 shipped each

#1. 700 SA clone, olive marble molded in camo. Inletting for Defiance medium, (700 SA) length, Remington sendero barrel channel, M5 bottom metal. 2 front swivel studs, bottom rear flush cups, 2 LH side flush cups. 32 oz, adjustable cheek piece( SOLD)

#2. 700 LA clone, (top pic)olive marble molded in Camo. Originally ordered as a 700 LA but ejection port and bolt release opened up for a Defiance, Proof Sendero barrel channel, M5 bottom metal, 4" front picatinny, bottom rear flush cup, adjustable cheek. (SOLD)

Does this need a new string?

So first a little context I grew up shooting a 22, 30 30, and 30 06. I am currently in my 40s and other than a deer hunt every year or two I haven't shot much since I was 18. I never really developed the full depth and breadth of skills I needed for proper use of a fire arm (my father basically always handled buying ammo, sighting in the rifles, cleaning, they were his guns, ect). I am looking to get a few bolt action rifles of my own and really work on getting my basic skills up to a level where I feel confident passing them down. I currently have a 22 and have been getting some volume target practice back in (not sure if I should try to modify it to take a scope, leave it as is, or pick up another and set it more like I want my heavier rifles to be). I am looking to buy (or have built, or assemble myself) two other bolt action rifles (one on the lighter end of the spectrum and one on the heavier end of the spectrum in terms of power). The lighter rifle is what I am looking at and asking about now.

So primary goals and reasoning
-Sufficient to ethically take a deer (White Tail or Axis (Chital)) out to 400 yards. I have almost always used a 30-06 when hunting in the past so that is sort of my baseline/reference point.
-Extremely Accurate (this is mostly personal / satisfaction requirement, I want that feeling when the shot goes exactly where you want it, so I probably want accuracy in excess of what I might need for my use case)
-Able to do long range (out to 1000 yards) target shooting. (I like the idea of real long range shooting have a pretty technical and math heavy background and I think it would be entertaining satisfying and fun and a good way to drive development of other skills)
-A bit lighter on recoil that a 30 06 (I know I will shoot it more and get more practice in if this is the case, I do plan on going through the process of getting a suppressor but that might be a little further down the road).
-I want it to be able to function as a general purpose gun (so nothing to ridiculous in terms of weight on either end of the spectrum)

Other notes
-I do plan on learning to hand load ASAP, have done some pretty heavy research and reading on the topic already. I have found a NRA basic Metallic Cartridge reloading course nearby and play to take it sometime in December, if anyone knows any other good resources I would love to hear (already have and read through the ABCs of reloading a few times). Having good factory ammo is nice but not a requirement I am confident in my ability to get it down.
-Hunting in my area (Southwest Texas, Hill Country and edge of the Chihuahuan desert) is normally White Tail or Axis deer, I have never hunted anywhere else and may not, it is normally done from a deer blind or if you know people or have property (I do and have) off someone's front or back porch or out their window, normally the range is pretty short (25-200 yards), there normally isn't a ton of hiking or spending all day in the woods so the super light weight hunting rifles that are lot of people seem to prioritize are not really what I am talking or thinking about when I think of a hunting rifle.
-Setting goals and benchmarks to work towards is sort of how I drive hobbies and development so if you can think of good things to aim for along the way it would be much appreciated. What do you consider the basic and indispensable for a marksman/hunter.
-I would like to be able to get a rifle by mid-may if going custom while still getting exactly what I want, lead times on some of the components are why I am asking now.

So now the specific questions
-What cartridge or cartridges do you think would best serve purposes (I have been looking things like the 6mm ARC, and 6mm BR at the low end with things like the 6.5 Creedmore and 6.5 PRC at the middle range, to even considering things like the 7 PRC and 300 WSM at the high end even though I know they kick more than a 30 06). I am a proponent of good shot placement but also it can't be too dead, what are honest thoughts on what cartridges are sufficient for this (with proper shot placement, proper bullet selection, and dialed in handloads). I have some varied goals and there is give and take with every option I am asking for advice because I am very much of the buy once cry once mentality but I know no once choice if perfect for everything I want.
-What does it take (beyond your own skill and practice) to get a a rifle that will shoot 1 MOA, 1/2 MOA, 1/4 MOA. Last time I did groups with the 30 06 I normally hunt with it did about a 3 inch group at 100 yards, that always seemed pretty good to me but I would really like to see how much better it can get, and know what it takes to get there (What will buying something like a Tikka 3x or Howa 1500 get you to with good handloading, how much of a difference would blueprinting a Howa make, Is assembling a Custom Rifle using a prefit barrel going to be inherently less accurate than having a good gunsmith chamber the same set up, ect).
-What sort of weight would you aim for with a specific chambering (not looking for precise but I would love a ballpark number).
-What specific trainings would you look for if you were in my position

Thanks in advance for any help I know repeated topics like this may get tiresome for some people but I do appreciate any time or thought you take to respond.

I have a new Vortex Razor HD Gen III 6-36x56 with EBR-7D reticle.

I just pulled it out of the box to take pictures.

2200$ shipped