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Tikkas are better than....

I’ll add that while I like my bergara, they need to get their shit together (maybe they have now) with their ejection/extraction.

Bergara ejector failures are well documented, the factory spring was way too weak/short. My extractor spring also failed. Mine went to shit before a match and failed on 7/8 stages. It works again now, they sent me a bolt parts kit. However I think the sliding plate is a forever marginal setup especially with a mim plate known for breaking problems.

i wish they have gone to a mini 16
 
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EotS said:
At $1,000? Maybe.
At $2,000? No, not even close.

Even at $1k,the Bergara has a lot to say. Better stock, lug, barrel, mags,....
Click to expand...
Thought I would add a big one for most. Aftermarket. Bergara having a 700 footprint opens up a million options. Thats why the 700 remains and will remain so popular. Its like if you could stick all kinds of Corvette parts to your Honda Accord. Get the bolt timed, and they work fine. Shooting a 700 slicks them up too, unless the inside of the bolt needs reamed. That makes a huge difference if the firing pin is dragging in the bolt body. I would prefer to spend another 1k on optics than 1k on an action.
 
DangerRanger said:
I’ll add that while I like my bergara, they need to get their shit together (maybe they have now) with their ejection/extraction.

Bergara ejector failures are well documented, the factory spring was way too weak/short. My extractor spring also failed. Mine went to shit before a match and failed on 7/8 stages. It works again now, they sent me a bolt parts kit. However I think the sliding plate is a forever marginal setup especially with a mim plate known for breaking problems.

i wish they have gone to a mini 16
Click to expand...
My bergara had at least 1 failure to eject on every stage in the 1 match I used it in, some stages I had 2 failures. Sold that bitch the next week to a buddy for a hunting rifle.
 
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BLKWLFK9 said:
My bergara had at least 1 failure to eject on every stage in the 1 match I used it in, some stages I had 2 failures. Sold that bitch the next week to a buddy for a hunting rifle.
Click to expand...
As of right now it’s running again, the parts kit they sent me the springs are like 1/3 longer. It was very frustrating to waste 30 seconds of each stage clearing shit and rebuilding.
 
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pineoak said:
I am a HUGE Tikka fan.

Wish the aftermarket was better, but the factory action, barrel, trigger are awesome. Reliable and high quality.

I have no issues with the plastic stock as it is lightweight and doesn't hurt accuracy. Easily replaced.

Some say MDT polymer AICS can be used in CTRs. I know AICS work great for Tikka through a KRG Bravo.

Tikka CTR is my go to recommendation for a first rifle for friends almost 100% of the time. Shoot it and sell it after you get your third and fourth rifle if you no longer shoot it. But people still use it.

I think Tikka works for most new people, especially in .223 & .308 where they're not swapping barrels often.
Click to expand...
Very well said.
 
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Rapidaffliction said:
Nice. My LTR is, as well... I figured the pro would be... I think it does make a difference...
Click to expand...
I wondered how much of a difference it truly made with non magnum calibers, but interestingly enough, my dad just sent his christensen arms MPR in to get the holes drilled and tapped to 8-40 after he had a 6-48 break off. That was in a 6.5cm also. Definitely confirmed to me it does make a difference regardless of cartridge.
 
HMRamateur said:
I wondered how much of a difference it truly made with non magnum calibers, but interestingly enough, my dad just sent his christensen arms MPR in to get the holes drilled and tapped to 8-40 after he had a 6-48 break off. That was in a 6.5cm also. Definitely confirmed to me it does make a difference regardless of cartridge.
Click to expand...
Wow! I bet the scope / mount combo also plays a part. ... But it be hard to quantify all of this .

I wonder how long it will be until 8-40 is standardized among the lower tiers... Not that Christensen is a lower tier, by any means....I find it surprising that they are using the 6-48, actually...
 
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EotS said:
At $1,000? Maybe.
At $2,000? No, not even close.

Even at $1k,the Bergara has a lot to say. Better stock, lug, barrel, mags...
Click to expand...
The lug, and the shroud for that matter, have long since been a non-issue, as they have been upgraded.. I too am a proponent of Bergara barrels... But I don't believe that Bergara is a match for Sako barrels ... And from what I understand, Tikka uses the same Sako barrels ..really, and truly....their stock is not all that much better... Some people might even think it's ugly...

The Bergara is a nice rifle....but I don't think that it is in the same realm as a Tikka... Yeah, the Bergara might have some things to say about it, but it doesn't have enough to say. There's just too many positive attributes to the Tikka system... Positives that alot of people don't even know about.. ...and subtleties add up....not to mention, even in this world, you can still find a t3x for in the neighborhood of $600... Throw in a $400 stock...maybe even second hand, or new/old stock... And you're still at the same price of a Bergara, but with a better overall system... And then the main thing that it has going for it other than his barrel is now a moot point.

This does not mean that the Bergara is off the "in the future" list.... By any means...
 
DangerRanger said:
As of right now it’s running again, the parts kit they sent me the springs are like 1/3 longer. It was very frustrating to waste 30 seconds of each stage clearing shit and rebuilding.
Click to expand...
30 seconds might as well be an eternity.. and in the real world, a lot can happen in 3 seconds, much less 30 seconds... Just like they used to tell us, we play a game of seconds and inches... And I would think to myself, no; we play a game of milliseconds and millimeters.. just imagine if those malfunctions, just one; would have happened during a once in a lifetime hunt. Yikes.
 
JMGlasgow said:
Remington uses hammer forged barrels. Everyone here likes to take a dump on them, and one of the reasons is inconsistent accuracy from one rifle to the next. I own 3 Remington rifles, 2 have had the barrel replaced for accuracy issues.

Back when I needed a bolt for a Tikka, they weren't available, Tikka didn't sell them, and LRI didn't make them. Yeah, things have changed, but that wasn't the case when I needed one, and my experience with Tikka was not in any way favorable. I've seen posts on this site of people breaking bolt handles off either by dropping it or they just break.

Defiance has always made high quality stuff, if you think otherwise you're a dumbass. They just would not guarantee headspace because of all the options available on the Deviant action, and they still won't today. It wasn't until the Ruckus came out that they started guaranteeing headspace, and that was because of demand. I'd bet I could screw a barrel from a different Deviant action with the same barrel thread length and bolt design onto my rifle and it would headpspace within spec.

The OP also stated you couldn't buy a better rifle for $2k, I gave 2 options. One being only $500 more. Does it have the best stock, barrel, and trigger money can buy? No, but it sure beats owning a Tikka.
Click to expand...
Yugo and Ferrari both makes cars.

Doesn't mean they are the same fucking quality.

Please tell me you are not capable of understanding the difference.

Also, you have always been able to buy tikka bolts from one of the tikka resellers or a parts house like MGW/Numrich or even a take off from Ebay/Gunbroker. People are dumb and/or lazy and bitch about shit that is not even an issue.

Defiance are so awesome they bind when they get dirty or if the cerakote applicator wasn't perfect. They have gone through alot of revisions and there is a reason Defiance which pretty much owned the custom action market when surgeon when titsup, was surpassed by Impact for people who actually need their gun to run under bad conditions. They will also make an OEM action for anyone who wants to buy 5 actions.

Nothing really compares to something like a GAP PPR @ $2500. Its really a $3K plus gun, but they get the cost down due to vollume and buying 100 of the same of everything each year. A Tikka Tac. with a new barrel, $5 trigger spring, and a few other accessories like bag rider/weights/brake will hang with just about everything out there. The Sako/TRG mags are great mags that run well.
 
Last edited:
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HMRamateur said:
I wondered how much of a difference it truly made with non magnum calibers, but interestingly enough, my dad just sent his christensen arms MPR in to get the holes drilled and tapped to 8-40 after he had a 6-48 break off. That was in a 6.5cm also. Definitely confirmed to me it does make a difference regardless of cartridge.
Click to expand...
They break from being overtightened or left loose, not because they too skinny. The friction between the base and action is what holds once the fastener is tight.
 
supercorndogs said:
They break from being overtightened or left loose, not because they too skinny. The friction between the base and action is what holds once the fastener is tight.
Click to expand...
While there is certainly some truth to this, under this logic, you wouldn't mind mounting the wheel on your truck with some quarter inch lag bolts... So long as theyre torqued properly....

The fact of the matter is, you can apply more torque to the larger fastener...which will in turn, remain tighter for longer...theoretically... OR, be able to withstand more impact, for longer durations... Hence, not allowing your amount to become loose... And it does not take it being so loose that it giggles, only a little bit off of spec...

Could "they" produce 6-48 fasteners of a higher grade that could compete with 8-40? Yes I'm sure they could, but it would not be cost effective... If you did that you might as well just make 8-40 screws of a higher grade.. but as it is, it is more accepting to just make larger diameters screws... And believe it or not, the threading also plays a part in all of this...
 
supercorndogs said:
A Tikka is no Ferrari, please tell me you are capable of understanding the difference between rack grade and top of the line.
Click to expand...
Sorry the point went over you're head. Maybe next time I can draw a picture instead and make it easier for you.

FYI, Sako/Tikka IS the Ferrari of Hammer Forged Barrels. No one really does it better on a more consistent basis.
 
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DeathBeforeDismount said:
Sorry the point went over you're head. Maybe next time I can draw a picture instead and make it easier for you.

FYI, Sako/Tikka IS the Ferrari of Hammer Forged Barrels. No one really does it better on a more consistent basis.
Click to expand...
Ferrari of hammer forged barrels. I was expecting this thread could get dumber. I forgot you snuck back in under another user name.:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
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Rapidaffliction said:
Top of the line, like it's timing gears and chain needing replaced after 10,000 miles?
Click to expand...
I always laugh when stupid fuckers start making shit up that is easily refuted. Timing belts, not chains and gears, 5 years 30k miles, how many horse power?

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Ferrari, Porsche & Exotic Car Sales and Service | Merlin Auto Group

Industry-leading experts in Ferrari, Porsche, and exotic car sales, service, and collection management. Discover a higher level of service at Merlin Auto Group.
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supercorndogs said:
I always laugh when stupid fuckers start making shit up that is easily refuted. Timing belts, not chains and gears, 5 years 30k miles, how many horse power?

www.merlinautogroup.com

Ferrari, Porsche & Exotic Car Sales and Service | Merlin Auto Group

Industry-leading experts in Ferrari, Porsche, and exotic car sales, service, and collection management. Discover a higher level of service at Merlin Auto Group.
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Click to expand...
Oh because the service interval says it, I guess that means it's written in concrete that it's going to go out at that... Just because you pull something off the internet don't expect it others to just blindly follow it as a explaining away 50+ years of Ferraris...

I guess because GM says my truck can go a hundred thousand miles between tune-ups, I guess that means that those spark plugs are going to last exactly 100,000 miles. Or what about the genius at Ford that set the EcoBoost oil change interval at 10,000mi...

Even still, timing gear is at 30k...

Pulling something off the internet, as your "aha moment"... Genius, just genius.. yeah, because no Ferrari is over had to have its timing gears changed that 10,000 MI...

Also, horsepower is not what tears s*** up as you say... It's RPM and, and other work induced tolerances. .

What about the Ferraris of the 1980s, when actually they really weren't making all that much horsepower? What was the excuse then...?

Trying to shove all of this in a Ferrari Fan's face is pretty stupid, being the fact that you have no idea who I am, or what I might know about Ferraris from personal experience and personal observation.. OR, Maseratis for that matter...
 
supercorndogs said:
They break from being overtightened or left loose, not because they too skinny. The friction between the base and action is what holds once the fastener is tight.
Click to expand...
True, but I don't doubt there is less instance of these issues with 8-40 screws, or else you wouldn't see more manufacturers going that route. Whether the screws are staying tighter for longer, or if it's a greater overall strength improvement, there's an improvement.
 
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HMRamateur said:
True, but I don't doubt there is less instance of these issues with 8-40 screws, or else you wouldn't see more manufacturers going that route. Whether the screws are staying tighter for longer, or if it's a greater overall strength improvement, there's an improvement.
Click to expand...
Just need to torque them properly. Crank down on any bolt or screw until you feel it loosen up. Then back it off a half turn and call it good. It's a universal system that works for everything, cylinder heads, lug nuts, deck screws, you name it. It's why Japanese engines last so long without leaking fluids.
 
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lil'skeet said:
Just need to torque them properly. Crank down on any bolt or screw until you feel it loosen up. Then back it off a half turn and call it good. It's a universal system that works for everything, cylinder heads, lug nuts, deck screws, you name it. It's why Japanese engines last so long without leaking fluids.
Click to expand...
No disagreement with you there, for the most part. Every hardware failure isn't installer error either. So if a screw gets loose, breaks, but the other 3 stay tight and you never notice any movement until the others can't hold the extra load and loosen, then you finally notice the movement in the base... do you think that's only capable of happening to someone who doesn't know how to properly torque a fastener?
 
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HMRamateur said:
No disagreement with you there, for the most part. Every hardware failure isn't installer error either. So if a screw gets loose, breaks, but the other 3 stay tight and you never notice any movement until the others can't hold the extra load and loosen, then you finally notice the movement in the base... do you think that's only capable of happening to someone who doesn't know how to properly torque a fastener?
Click to expand...
Grab that set of vice grips, channel locks or rounded off torx wrench like it was the hair on your LGBTQ+ partners hair, and yank on that fucker.
Use 2 hands like you were as pissed of as when you woke up with that greasy rubber hangin out of your ass for the first time.
 
Haney said:
Tikkas are better than....Everyone else that showed up to try to beat me in Stock/varmint class . It went on all summer long , the second and third place for the year also had Tikkas . Some people shoot, some people don't . Those that don't can only troll .
Click to expand...
So when are you and @308pirate competing against each other?
 
supercorndogs said:
Ferrari of hammer forged barrels. I was expecting this thread could get dumber. I forgot you snuck back in under another user name.:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
You can change your name, but at the end of the day, your still the same CobraCutter you always were.
 
We have a bunch of Tikkas. I’m sure custom actions are nice but they’re not necessary. You can buy a tikka and drop it into a Bravo… or buy a Tikka action, add a barrel, and pick a chassis, and you’ll be able to shoot with any other rifle out there. We had a bergara and I wasn’t impressed.
7044F986-3A8E-469D-9465-E079C4760DBE.jpeg
0E06049F-6318-4148-9DE5-1DD733BB0795.jpeg
F1D88295-2DCC-4AFA-B608-7FC690D89BEE.jpeg
 
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Precision Underground said:
We have a bunch of Tikkas. I’m sure custom actions are nice but they’re not necessary. You can buy a tikka and drop it into a Bravo… or buy a Tikka action, add a barrel, and pick a chassis, and you’ll be able to shoot with any other rifle out there. We had a bergara and I wasn’t impressed. View attachment 7913591View attachment 7913590View attachment 7913592
Click to expand...
DOUBLE Like... This is a great post... Awesome pictures... great looking rifles...
 
HMRamateur said:
True, but I don't doubt there is less instance of these issues with 8-40 screws, or else you wouldn't see more manufacturers going that route. Whether the screws are staying tighter for longer, or if it's a greater overall strength improvement, there's an improvement.
Click to expand...
The only reason I see to move to 8-40 is if your base screw holes are out of line, and opening them up with a single point cutting tool can a set of 8-40 holes in straight line where the 6-48 were crooked. Or someone ham fisted one or a couple.

Now you have a rack grade rifle, base holes don't line yp with the action or barrel, you ran out of windage on your scope. How big will you have to go now to make those holes straight if they started with 8-40 hardware? Its kind of like boring an engine over. a 350 bored .120 isn't a performance upgrade, its a soon to be boat anchor on its last hoorah.

I don't see more manufactures going that route. I see more manufactures still sticking with 6-48. If more do start going that route, I don't think it has anything to do with better. I think it has more to do with people seeing custom rifles with 8-40 base screws, for the reasons mentioned above, and they thought it was an upgrade and wanted it. You want to upgrade your base to action interface, put a recoil lug on the base.
 
Everyone knows that Tikka barrels and actions are just Sako rejects.
This one is so bad that I had to put a $4k scope on it so that it would shoot better... stay away from them at all cost!

87F8919E-169F-4034-8176-697DF5B8F0E5.jpeg

Next time I'm buying Savages Axis.
 
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supercorndogs said:
The only reason I see to move to 8-40 is if your base screw holes are out of line, and opening them up with a single point cutting tool can a set of 8-40 holes in straight line where the 6-48 were crooked. Or someone ham fisted one or a couple.

Now you have a rack grade rifle, base holes don't line yp with the action or barrel, you ran out of windage on your scope. How big will you have to go now to make those holes straight if they started with 8-40 hardware? Its kind of like boring an engine over. a 350 bored .120 isn't a performance upgrade, its a soon to be boat anchor on its last hoorah.

I don't see more manufactures going that route. I see more manufactures still sticking with 6-48. If more do start going that route, I don't think it has anything to do with better. I think it has more to do with people seeing custom rifles with 8-40 base screws, for the reasons mentioned above, and they thought it was an upgrade and wanted it. You want to upgrade your base to action interface, put a recoil lug on the base.
Click to expand...
I agree with the recoil lug statement. BUT, why do custom rifles have 8-40 screws? Why do you see pinned or machined rails on the receiver? If it's only because people asked for them, why are they asking for them? Failures happen. I'm sure the majority of people aren't taking their scopes off every few range trips or more, just to check the tightness of their rail screws. And if they are, I'm willing to bet it's because they've had a failure at some point and learned from it, in which case, a one piece rail/receiver sounds like a fair investment. If I'm wrong, and 6-48 screws are good enough, that's alright with me too, 8-40 screws weren't expensive.
 
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Omg..

If u hate Tikkas, go buy u another shitbox r700 rip off like a howa or bergara. If u like tikkas, great. Go buy another tikka and throw it in a KRG of your favorite flavor. The shit slinging in this thread is getting annoying as the arguments have devolved to utter hot garbage. If this thread has proved one thing, it's shown the SH members who would be the life of any party they attend. Smh

People got to quit worrying about what everyone else spends their money on.
I buy what I like, you do you and keep it moving.
 
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BLKWLFK9 said:
Omg..

If u hate Tikkas, go buy u another shitbox r700 rip off like a howa or bergara. If u like tikkas, great. Go buy another tikka and throw it in a KRG of your favorite flavor. The shit slinging in this thread is getting annoying as the arguments have devolved to utter hot garbage. If this thread has proved one thing, it's shown the SH members who would be the life of any party they attend. Smh

People got to quit worrying about what everyone else spends their money on.
I buy what I like, you do you and keep it moving.
Click to expand...
That's not gonna help the response count.
 
supercorndogs said:
The only reason I see to move to 8-40 is if your base screw holes are out of line, and opening them up with a single point cutting tool can a set of 8-40 holes in straight line where the 6-48 were crooked. Or someone ham fisted one or a couple.

Now you have a rack grade rifle, base holes don't line yp with the action or barrel, you ran out of windage on your scope. How big will you have to go now to make those holes straight if they started with 8-40 hardware? Its kind of like boring an engine over. a 350 bored .120 isn't a performance upgrade, its a soon to be boat anchor on its last hoorah.

I don't see more manufactures going that route. I see more manufactures still sticking with 6-48. If more do start going that route, I don't think it has anything to do with better. I think it has more to do with people seeing custom rifles with 8-40 base screws, for the reasons mentioned above, and they thought it was an upgrade and wanted it. You want to upgrade your base to action interface, put a recoil lug on the base.
Click to expand...
I'll take this opportunity to point out that Tikkas come drilled/milled for recoil lugs of such...hah
 
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